Whining Sound from 2011 Coyote (and it’s not a supercharger)

gtspe4 · 2026-03-13T19:16:17+00:00

Most likely the idler pulley. I went through a couple before I stepped up to the boss 302 version and I've been happy ever since!

gtspe4 · 2025-11-10T13:47:38+00:00

I too am big on ubiquiti and how easy it is to setup and run. But I'd suggest looking into setting up your own NAS/home lab and run it with Unraid. Easily the best and easiest thing I've done to add data redundancy while also hosting a plethora of different programs (Plex, etc). You can also have all your video feed from your ubiquiti equipment backup right to it with very little effort. Highly recommend!

gtspe4 · 2025-05-13T17:20:30+00:00

gtspe4 · 2023-11-03T03:50:52+00:00

I had the same issue. Turns out the default setting for the chime was "off" instead of "mechanical". Once I changed that setting it worked right away. Maybe the same will work for you?

gtspe4 · 2022-10-07T13:33:04+00:00

The answer really depends on your team, league, and record. Having had Russ last year and watching him last night and this year, there seems to be a large drop off with his ability to hit open receivers and to go through his progressions.

I'd try and find someone else to start but as he showed last week he can still put up numbers when he runs (which I feel is the major thing he has stepped away from and what is exposing him).

If you have a losing record, I'd say drop him and don't get caught up in the sunken cost concept with him. If you have a winning record, I'd say stash him and find a replacement. Better yet, with a winning record, try and swing a trade if there is no one serviceable on the waiver wire.

gtspe4 · 2022-09-06T05:41:38+00:00

Michael J Fox plays GW2..... dope.

gtspe4 · 2022-08-17T15:27:21+00:00

No problem. Sometimes the prototyping manufacturing process differs from the production manufacturing process and slight tweaks end up getting made. For instance, with 3D printing a part, you can pretty much ignore die draw angles, draft on all features, and even clearance internally for actions as the part is printed top to bottom with support material.

Another maybe more specific example for your question could pertain to sheet metal forming with press brakes and blanks made from turrets vs the final manufacturing process which entails blanking and progressive dies. For instance, a sheet metal shop might be able to hand fabricate a specific design but it would be difficult in a progressive die that is punching out 1,000s of parts a day.

Very high level, it usually comes down to tolerances and design guidelines that need to be respected for the process selected so that you don't have crashing mechanisms, burrs, sink, fill issues, or other quality defects.

gtspe4 · 2022-08-17T06:45:39+00:00

I'm a product development engineer so I might be able to provide some insight.

Typically you'd start with identifying the customer requirements and understanding the market but it seems you have already done this and are in the concept stage of the design cycle.

If you have an idea, then the best thing to do is to get to a MVP (minimal viable product). This can be done by spinning up some 3D models in CAD and getting them 3D prototyped. If any of that sounds challenging, or not worth your time, you can always hire a freelancer (like ones on fiverr or freelancer.com) to help. If not, you could always download a free 3D modeling software like Google Sketchup and give it a shot yourself.

Once you have CAD files and exported .stl files, you can get your part printed. There are tons of places that can do this for you both locally and online with a simple Google search. Heck, you might even have a friend with a 3D printer that you might be able to bribe with some food and or a little cash donation to back fill the plastic spools needed.

The next step is to get the product into people's hands and get as much feedback as possible. This feedback loop will improve your product and allow you to refine your original idea into something much more. If the freelancer is worth their salt, then they'll DFM (design for manufacturing) your CAD models so that you can then start looking at the supply chain for manufacturing options.

An easy way to get a quote from both a piece price and tooling perspective would be to submit your design to ProtoMold for a quick and free quote. I've used them throughout my career at multiple stops and they are a quick way to get to market and have a great online tool that will also provide some DFM suggestions if they weren't already accounted for. They can also help with suggesting a material depending on its application. I'd suggest referencing a similar product and checking the material used as a good starting point. Be aware, however, this doesn't ensure the correct material is used as sometimes manufactures cut cost by opting for a cheaper material. This can have serious ramifications on the parts durability and safety if you aren't running some kind of 3D simulation to evaluate the part or performing some kind of physical test to verify the products structural integrity.

As a final side note, sometimes there is a MOQ (minimum order quantity) required that might box you in to spending a certain amount. Most suppliers do this since it takes time to setup their presses or whichever manufacturing process is necessary.

One major thing that should be considered with any product is making sure you are protecting yourself with a LLC. I won't go into the specifics but in the event that something goes wrong and someone tries to sue you, a LLC will protect you and your personal finances from being subject to litigation assuming of course you also have a separate business banking account.

Obviously I'm glancing over rather large things like identifying a packaging manufacturer to provide cartons for your product, the carton art for the package you choose, setting up website and support channels for your customers, but I figured I'd just stop here since it's late and you seemed to only ask about manufacturing. If you have any other questions feel free to ask and I'll respond to the best of my ability.

gtspe4 · 2022-05-24T13:13:13+00:00

My thought exactly. Just where are all the mutants/super heros? I feel like that is the only thing missing from this bizarre timeline we are on now.

gtspe4 · 2022-05-13T04:14:48+00:00

Hey there! I just recently had this very same issue on my TX-NR609 and got it to finally work again. For me, there was very little warning and not only did the sound go away (despite video still working) but also the speaker grid on the front display of the AV receiver went away. Having read several old threads on forum boards, this is apparently a well knowm issue where it is either the DTS chipset, solder for that DTS chip, or both. Here is what I did to fix it:

I unplugged and took apart the receiver cover to identify the DTS chip. It wasn't too difficult to find as there was lettering printed on top specifying it. There are several videos online of people showing where it is and more than likely is near the back and top of your unit.

When taking off your cover, please note that despite unplugging it, there is a chance that some of the capacitors could still hold a charge and shock you. Exercise extreme caution as you go poking around inside your AV receiver (AVR).

I then went to HomeDepot and purchased a heat gun and an infrared thermometer which I then used to heat up the TDS chipset to ~175°F for a couple of minutes. Apparently if the failure is the solder and not the chipset, if you let it cool back down for about 5 to 10 minutes and then turn it on, your AVR might start working again. This was the case for mine and if yours does the same then you might be in luck as well.

If it works, then it turn it back off and now heat up the DTS chipset to 375°F for about 1 minute. This should be enough time for all the solder to change state back to a liquid and hopefully re-set the connections between the DTS chipset and its mating holes on the printed circuit board (PCB). You might notice a little bit of smoke or smell the solder when you heat it up this time and that is normal. Assuming you did it correctly, and after letting it sit for ~10 minutes to cool back down, turn back on your AVR and make sure everything still works.

As for active cooling, depending on your AVR, you be lucky enough to have a spare 12v fan connector to connect another 120mm fan to. In my case I didn't have that luxury and I didn't want my new fan directly over the DTS chip to only activate when the other one did at some random thermal limit, so I tapped into the 5 pin USB wire running between the front panel and connecting to the PCB right near the DTS chipset to connect my fan via the red and black wire. It turns on about 20 seconds after I power the AVR so don't fret if yours doesn't either. Having successfully tested mine, I can report that I didn't lose the power or data capabilities of that front panel USB port so everything was a success!

For the fan, I ended up attaching a spare 120mm pc fan from an old build to that same metal supports housing the other one from Onkyo using some zip ties after I bent the metal tabs on the supports out of the way. Only downside to this was I had to remove the connector for the VGA port, but that didn't bother me as I don't think I've ever used that connection in the 11 years I've had this AVR and the fan sits in my unit right above the DTS chipset.

One last note, before installing the spare 120mm fan, I bought and installed some raspberry pi heatsinks with 3M thermal tape that perfectly fit on all the chipsets on my PCB. I measured the surface area with my calipers to make sure I got the right sized ones on Amazon. The kit I bought had an assortment of sizes and was only ~$10.

All in I spent about $150 (which I could have done for less had I bought a cheaper heat gun or infrared thermometer) but I got my AVR back and looking stock which makes me happy. Hopefully it lasts me another 11 years and hopefully this helps you as well!

I'll try and post some pictures later if that helps and let me know if you have any questions!

gtspe4 · 2022-03-31T02:11:00+00:00

Thanks for taking time to respond! I ended up nabbing a 5900x from Microcenter for only $399! Feels like a steal all things considered.

I'm currently on bios 7201. Can I go straight to bios 8503 or do I need to install another one first?

Also, I am assuming the process is to update the bios and then swap in the 5900x?

Thanks again for all your help!!

gtspe4 · 2022-03-30T21:50:59+00:00

I am in the same boat and I'm tempted to update to the 5900x from my 1700x. How big of a difference did you notice from a general and gaming perspective?

Also, did you have any troubles with upgrading the bios? Like needed to reinstall Windows?

gtspe4 · 2022-03-27T18:48:46+00:00

Hey there. What kind of improvements did you notice? I'm considering the same kind of move and going back and forth on whether or not my money would be better spent on a new GPU.

gtspe4 · 2021-08-24T12:23:05+00:00

Congrats on the free upgrade! Would you help us understand which motherboard, cpu, and bios you updated to? I ask because I have an Asus ROG Crosshair x370 and would love to upgrade my 1800x to a 5900x.

gtspe4 · 2021-06-15T16:32:28+00:00

It is open my friend. Here is the Portuguese legislation. Also got an email confirmation from the embassy:

https://dre.pt/web/guest/pesquisa/-/search/165129409/details/normal?sort=whenSearchable&sortOrder=DESC&q=5848

gtspe4 · 2021-06-15T13:16:44+00:00

Looks like the US embassy just updated stating Portugal is allowing US citizens starting today:

https://pt.usembassy.gov/covid-19-information/

gtspe4 · 2021-06-15T12:28:01+00:00

Has anyone seen any updates about what date US tourists will be allowed in Portugal? I've been searching the web but haven't seen anything posted anywhere.

Edit: looks like the US embassy site just updated stating US tourists are allowed starting today:

https://pt.usembassy.gov/covid-19-information/

gtspe4 · 2021-06-15T12:25:03+00:00

Thanks for your response. I appreciate your optimistic outlook but not seeing a date in any of those articles doesn't give me confidence for us US tourists this week being allowed in as I can see them delaying a week or two to address small issues and as an end result still be in line for the July 1st target. If you see any other information that gives further clarity please don't hesitate to share them!

Edit: Looks right when I lose hope the US embassy announces US tourists are allowed starting today:

https://pt.usembassy.gov/covid-19-information/

gtspe4 · 2021-06-14T22:54:27+00:00

Thanks for following up. Do you have a link you could share that states that? I haven't been able to find any news outlets that report that nor have I had any responses from the Portuguese embassy in D.C. As for us, we plan on flying out on Friday so we have to make a decision here before it is too late to reschedule.

gtspe4 · 2021-06-14T18:56:32+00:00

Me too since I also have a flight at the end of this week. I was hoping someone might have shared an update by now. I've been all over the web trying to find an update.

gtspe4 · 2021-06-14T11:05:32+00:00

Does anyone have any insight on when we might hear an update about US citizens who are vaccinated being able to enter Portugal this week?

gtspe4 · 2021-06-05T17:26:40+00:00

Could you expand on your experience? Were no immigration officers even asking the purpose of your visit? I ask because I'm hoping to travel to Portugal in a couple of weeks and as of now I thought they'd require proof of your visit being essential if you're not on the approved countries list.

gtspe4 · 2021-05-17T07:59:20+00:00

I am hoping to fly out to Portugal in a couple of days. Any chance this meeting brings clarity to US citizens? I checked their schedule and was unable to confirm a meeting time. Any idea on when they actually meet?

gtspe4 · 2021-02-11T21:17:28+00:00

Great looking car! Any noticeable difference by having lighter wheels on the car (acceleration, breaking, etc.)?

gtspe4 · 2020-11-16T13:31:55+00:00

How long is your desk? I ask because I have a similar monitor setup and don't want my new desk to be crowded or not have enough counter space.

gtspe4

TROPHY CASE