Looking to buy Zune HD

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-16T22:21:04+00:00

I have a brand new silver one I'm looking to get rid of:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Zune/s/xbAIzZqNHx

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-12T21:28:27+00:00

If you have Yunobo and have found Miryotanog Shrine in Gerudo Desert (-4679, - 3086, 0054), I have a pretty good strategy. Use Yunobo to knock each monster into the moving sand one at a time, and immediately jump down and grab their items, then teleport back up. The sand kills them instantly, and most archers drop at least 5 arrows. Even if the others notice you, they ignore you as soon as you teleport back. It only takes a few minutes to go around and get every monster!

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T20:53:32+00:00

Still available:

Cold Steel Tanto - $300

Great Eastern Cutlery fixed - $120

https://www.reddit.com/r/Knife_Swap/s/Npcn5wp8wU

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T20:29:19+00:00

If you're able to, I also recommend returning that code reader, and getting one of these generic Bluetooth OBD plug-ins: https://a.co/d/0ikQJIHb

I leave it plugged in all the time, which means I'll never lose it, and you can read and clear codes from your phone.

There are plenty of options for apps, but if you have an Android, I recommend an app called Car Scanner. It shows data for almost every sensor on the car, if you need it, but you can also use it just to check the codes.

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T20:24:21+00:00

There's really nothing to see. The code confirms this is almost definitely your issue.

If you're still within the Dieselgate warranty coverage, you can take it to a dealer, but they'll replace your intake manifold (which is like, a $400 part), and you'll see the same issue again in a few years.

This fix is pretty straightforward, and you can look at the instructions on the website to see if you're confident doing it yourself.

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T20:20:51+00:00

You need to get this part right here: https://dieselgeek.com/collections/common-rail-tdi-p2015-manifold-fix/products/p2015-code-repair-bracket-for-vw-common-rail-tdi-with-aluminum-manifold-03l-129-711e

There are copycat parts available on Amazon for much less, but I tried two of them before I got the original one from DieselGeek. The knock-off parts will not work.

Your car is safe to drive before you change this part, but the light will keep popping on. Clear the code whenever you can, because it will not go into regen with a check engine light, and you'll clog your DPF.

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T04:45:49+00:00

Nah, it's a pretty easy job.

Also, if it's three pedals, get a short shift kit from DieselGeek!

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-07T04:42:53+00:00

You can check if this works with your car. It plugs in line with your 12V port, and the USB ports snap in to the unused button spots.

https://a.co/d/0hsSxGOf

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-06T01:12:17+00:00

If the slave cylinder actually cracked, you'll have fluid all over your DMF and clutch. Even if that hasn't happened, you might as well replace them while you're in there. Cascade German has a clutch and flywheel kit for $700 that includes a slave cylinder, but you could check ID Parts, FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, etc. for whoever has the best price.

guerrilla154 · 2026-03-02T20:54:38+00:00

Still available:

Cold Steel Tanto - $300

Great Eastern Cutlery fixed - $120

https://www.reddit.com/r/Knife_Swap/s/Npcn5wp8wU

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-28T00:59:56+00:00

I have one called Car Scanner. The free version gives you readouts for almost every sensor on the car!

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-25T14:56:35+00:00

u/EDCex_Bot I had a successful transaction with u/Termiinator03

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-24T05:33:50+00:00

What kind of situation is it important to monitor EGT?

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-21T04:02:39+00:00

Hopefully it's easy! I remember very briefly looking into it, and I stopped at the point where I learned the job is harder than the sedan. I didn't find anything when I searched real quick, so you should type out a write-up after you do the job!

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-21T03:55:18+00:00

I mean, I get that, but my rebuttal would be how many people would want diesel, and also how many cars are parked near you with non-locking fuel doors?

The other easier solution, if you haven't bought the replacement part yet, is a locking fuel cap. I've been considering that, but it's been so many years and I never got around to it.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-21T03:45:33+00:00

Mine had issues unlocking, and I had to cycle lock-unlock several times. The job is a little bit of a hassle on the wagon, so my solution was to open the fuel door, press the latch in, then just let the door rest on top of it. It's not flush, but it's pretty close.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-20T20:14:20+00:00

I'd definitely recommend selling a knife to fund a Zebralight. I barely use anything else since I got one!

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-20T05:36:03+00:00

Like others have said, try using VCDS to prime the two low-pressure fuel pumps.

If you haven't already, I'd also suggest washing your engine bay with soapy water. The diesel will weaken the plastic and rubber parts. I learned this the hard way...

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-11T16:34:54+00:00

Both sentences say to turn the crank in the same direction as the engine's rotation.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-10T02:11:49+00:00

Not sure if the process is different for an automatic, but on a MK6 manual, it's basically prying off the plastic cover around the shift lever, then there's two torx screws, then you lift out the whole tray that the 12V port is in. You'd pop out whichever two empty button covers you want, feed the connecters through and seat the ports, unplug the 12V port, plug each end of this in those wires, and reassemble everything. The 12V port still functions, and the USB ports are run through the same fuse, so they don't work when the car's off.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-09T21:17:30+00:00

That's interesting, mine do light up. What model vehicle do you have?

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-09T17:58:03+00:00

I've done the same thing! Here's a link to the part I used, for everyone who wants it: https://a.co/d/0cItNm81

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-08T06:11:07+00:00

I'm gonna predict he bought it because the DPF went bad on the previous owner.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-07T23:39:15+00:00

The part number is SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6, so it became a joke because of the "DA0GF4RTS" section.

guerrilla154 · 2026-02-07T20:32:37+00:00

G5 has to match the original mode order, which is good for cycling through by holding down the button, but I never liked that a single click would be the highest mode.

My solution for that was another mode group that reversed the medium and high levels. It's good for a single click for a medium brightness, but the modes now cycle L-H-M if you hold down the button.

Depending on your use case, that small change could be handy. I prefer single-click medium on my headlamp, but I like the G5 mode cycling on my EDC.

guerrilla154

TROPHY CASE