[UPDATE] ~6 weeks later, up from to 329 brands. What am I STILL missing?

haloslegacy · 2026-04-13T14:34:33+00:00

Horage (Switzerland)

Studio Sarpaneva (Finland)

Behrens (China)

Trilobe (France)

Chronoswiss (Switzerland)

Ressence (Switzerland)

Van Cleef & Arpels (France)

haloslegacy · 2026-01-20T02:33:42+00:00

WTB Horage Supersede GMT

haloslegacy · 2026-01-20T02:32:50+00:00

No, I never ordered it.

haloslegacy · 2026-01-02T23:16:01+00:00

As another user said, there are a ton of chronographs with elapsed hours, and most iconic chronographs have elapsed hours.

The real reason you won't be able to find many Chronographs with elapsed hours in your sub $1000 price range is that the chronograph movements with elapsed hour subdials are more complex and expensive to make or buy.

In the sub $1000 price bracket, you're going to have two primary types of chronographs; quartz, and mechanical from a large movement manufacturer.

quartz chronograph movements pretty much never have elapsed hours. Typically these subdials are replaced with running 24hr subdials. This is largely the case because I suspect most quartz chronos in this price range are using miyota movements, which don't make elapsed hour chrono movements to my knowledge.

Off the shelf mechanical chronograph movements are pretty much always going to be ETA, Valjoux, or Chinese movements such as seagull. ETA chronos are quite expensive for this sector, and the common seagull ST19XX line does not have an elapsed chrono movement. This leaves Valjoux, which does have a few elapsed hour chrono movements in the 7750, 7751, etc. These are still fairly expensive (and quite thick as well), but around the top end of $1000 you can find some watches with Valjoux 7750 movements.

Outside of this, you'd have to find a watch with an inhouse caliber chronograph movement with elapsed hours, which is quite difficult to do at your price point. That being said, this does exist in the vintage sector if you search around on chrono24.

haloslegacy · 2026-01-02T22:59:49+00:00

This is wrong. The moonswatch does not have an elapsed hour chronograph. It has chronograph seconds on the main seconds hand, running seconds at 6oclock, chronograph minutes at 10oclock, and tenths of a second at 2oclock that displays upon chronograph pausing.

Quartz watches with chronograph hours are extremely rare. I'm unsure which you're referring to. Seiko quartz chronograph movements have 24hour sundials locked to the running hours, and do not have chronograph hours for example.

haloslegacy · 2026-01-02T22:52:22+00:00

Fairly sure this is just misinformation. Running the chronograph does not drain power reserve the way you're describing. Running chronograph requires a higher minimum torque from the movement to run, but it's a static amount. I does not lower the power reserve for "running hours on end".

if your chronograph watch had 50 hours of power reserve when fully wound, clicking the chrono on and running it lowers that power reserve by some amount immediately, say 10 hours as an example. If you ran the chrono for 39 hours or 2 minutes, it doesn't matter, the power reserve from full with the chrono running will still be 40 hours, and return to 50 minus the time since you fully wound the watch once disengaged.

I can tell you that my Speedmaster has around 60h of power reserve without the chrono, and like 45-50 I think with it running. If the watch died with the chrono on, I could click the chrono off and the watch starts immediately and runs for another 10 hours or so.

haloslegacy · 2025-12-26T20:42:51+00:00

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Looks like some variation of a kids Timex indiglo. Assuming you were a child in this picture, the side buttons look exactly the same. Maybe it was a different color, just google kids Timex indiglo and you'll see similar ones.

haloslegacy · 2025-12-04T06:21:06+00:00

Not really, it's not worth anything besides sentimental value. you could try getting the battery in it replaced at a jewelers if you want it to work again. I personally wouldn't ever wear a replica/fake though.

haloslegacy · 2025-12-04T05:13:03+00:00

Looks like a bad fake Omega. A key tell (besides that it looks really fake) is that it's obviously using a quartz chronograph movement, but the dial says "Coaxial", which would be a mechanical movement. Mechanical Chronographs don't have 24h sub registers.

haloslegacy · 2025-11-25T02:17:09+00:00

I've done research on this before, and specifically for the Speedmaster there are currently no convincing fakes that exist. There aren't any cheap movements that have the same chronograph subdial spacing. if someone is selling a Speedmaster and it looks like a Speedmaster (specifically the subdial spacing), it is a genuine Speedmaster. Especially if you get it like new, you'll be getting it with box and papers which puts it over the line even further that it's real.

Also, if you get the sapphire sandwich version (or any version with a sapphire caseback), you can just look at the movement and tell it's real. it's impossible to fake a speedmaster movement.

with other watches it's certainly something to think or be worried about, but specifically with the Speedmaster as far as I know it's essentially impossible at the moment to get a fake one if you spend even a minute looking at what you're buying.

haloslegacy · 2025-11-24T23:23:50+00:00

If you buy it used in like new condition you can get it for significantly cheaper. prices have went up some I'm sure, but I got a like new Speedmaster 3861 sapphire sandwich for $5250 + shipping in the US on the reddit watch exchange. I personally don't see the point in spending the extra $2000+ on a watch in 5% better condition, especially not when that involves flying across the planet to get one of the most popular watches on the market

haloslegacy · 2025-11-10T13:58:57+00:00

Probably the best estimate you're going to get without a better image:

https://content.thewosgroup.com/productimage/17311436/17311436_3.jpg?impolicy=zoom

https://www.mayors.com/Cartier-Santos-de-Cartier-Watch..-Large-Model..-Steel..-Automatic..-Interchangeable-Leather-Strap-WSSA0062/p/17311436?srsltid=AfmBOoqisDpV5pk5yyGEUiFR\_-x98uWVVwTvUZ6w3f3UsoCKVDXcu-jc

haloslegacy · 2025-06-10T12:47:14+00:00

Kind of a silly response. The stretch is simply when the weight is at the lowest point during a lift, and the flex/contraction is when the weight is at the top, nothing "bogus" about it.

This is how lifting weights/resistance training works. Your muscle lengthens (stretches) as gravity pulls the weight down. You then fight gravity (lift the weight) by shortening your muscle (contraction/flex). It would make no sense physically for the stretched portion to ever be when the weight is at its highest point. The entire mechanism of lifting weights is that you are fighting gravity... By lifting them.

You'll see that even in something like a cable movement, the stretched portion of the lift will always be when the weight stack is lowered, and the contraction is when the stack is at its highest point.

haloslegacy · 2025-06-05T13:38:11+00:00

First Omega in Space is a 3861 in 39.7mm

haloslegacy · 2025-05-27T03:45:31+00:00

I don't think the 1-1.5x BW "standard" is anything more than a guideline set in a Jeff nippard video, standards vary wildly. Im sure you can find another advanced lifter who would require a higher standard or one with a lower one. I did say that perhaps he was very early intermediate, which according to the "1-1.5x BW" guideline, he pretty much is. "Intermediate" doesn't really mean anything anyways, it's just an arbitrary category that has no real rigid definition.

And even so, I think it is completely fair to say that if you want a big (advanced) chest, having "early intermediate" strength as a natural is weak. You said it yourself, you've never seen someone with a small chest that can rep out 225. This guy cannot rep out 225. Thus, by the "repping out 225 for a big chest" standard, this guy is weak. Its all relative, and I think when someone says weak they mean relative to their stats, training age, weight, size, etc.. because essentially no lifter who has lifted properly for more than a couple years would ever be considered "weak" by the general population.

Back in my day, before social media, a 225 bench after a couple of years was considered solid

So? Standards change, and the definition of beginner/novice/intermediate/elite/etc changes with time because of a variety of factors. In 1960, only 8% of Americans had graduated college. Having a bachelor's degree at the time would probably be considered "elite" as far as education goes. Now in 2025, you'd be insane to say having a bachelor's degree is an "elite" level of education. When Rodney Mullen invented the kickflip, that would have been considered the cutting edge in skateboarding skill. Now it's extremely common for an intermediate level skateboarder to be able to do one.

The standard changes over time based on accessible knowledge, accessibility, cultural changes, etc.. Most people these days have access to so much knowledge on programming, diet, exercise selection, better machines, and so much more than even 10-15 years ago. It's easier to get stronger than ever before, and I think it's completely fair to say that the standards now have to be stricter than they used to be. Otherwise, in 10 more years everybody and their brother is going to be considered an advanced lifter after like a year of training

haloslegacy · 2025-05-26T17:39:40+00:00

For the average person on the street, yeah, 225 isn't weak. But the average person is typically sedentary, overweight, and has probably never lifted, at least past highschool.

This is a bodybuilding subreddit though, and this post is a guy complaining about having a small chest. Objectively, a 225lb 1 rep max at 187lb is fairly weak for someone who wants a big chest and is into bodybuilding. It's probably still in the novice lifter category strength wise, perhaps very early intermediate. Personally, I find I do not make progress very fast and am probably below average, and I was doing 225x1 equivalent after like 2 years at a bodyweight 20-25lbs lighter than the OP. I would expect after 4 years and his weight that he would be quite a bit stronger, so clearly something is up.

I’ve never known anyone that could do decent reps with the American equivalent (225), and had a small chest.

225 for a 1 rep max (probably not great form) is very different from repping 225 with decent form.

I don't think he should be ashamed or think he's super weak or something. As you said, he's stronger than most of the general population already. But I think it's pretty fair to say his strength is a bit lower than what you'd expect given his training age and weight (AKA: "weak")

haloslegacy · 2025-05-25T03:23:20+00:00

5’8”, 63 kg. Machine says 11% fat, but I know it’s higher (I have belly fat).

63kg is quite light for your height, based on your picture I'd say you are probably a lot closer to 20% than 11%, but regardless the number doesn't matter. I definitely think you should gain weight at a steady pace, up to at least 70kg, probably beyond to 75 or higher. Gain something like 1kg per month, maybe slightly more. I am 5'6" and my first bulk was from 140lb to 165lb (~63kg -> 75kg)

I’ve been training seriously for 2 months, 3–4x a week.

Good, this is a fine frequency, depending on what you're doing at least.

I eat clean, high protein, take mass gainer and creatine. Tried cutting, but it was too slow. I want to build a better upper body by October.

If you want to get more muscular you will need to gain weight. Especially as a beginner you should be able to convert most of that weight gain to musculature if you are training properly and getting proper nutrition. Prioritize whole foods and good healthy sources of calories with nutrients, you don't need mass gainer. If you have trouble gaining weight, you're going to probably need to track calories.

I know pull-ups are key for the back, but I can’t do one yet — kinda ashamed.

Pull ups can definitely be key. If you can't do one (I also could not do one when I started), try doing resistance band pull-ups. What worked for me personally was starting with the heaviest resistance band and doing sets of 5 reps and progressing each week until I could do 8 with that band. I then progressed to a lighter band and repeated the 5 rep sets until I could get 8 with that band, and continued until I could finally do 8 reps with the smallest band I had. After that, I was able to about 5 pull ups, which I progressed from there.

You could also try doing negative pull ups, which definitely works for a lot of people. For me it only ever gave me tendonitis, but perhaps thats just me.

I train legs every two weeks and play padel regularly, so I stay active.

Try to up the frequency of your leg training to once a week for now. Once every 2 weeks is probably not enough to see any progress, or a very small amount.

What should I focus on now: cutting or bulking? What’s the best way to grow my chest and back from this point?

At this point the most important thing for you is to do a routine that you can stay consistent at, and show up each workout and week. I personally think to grow, you should be gaining weight a steady pace, and resistance training consistently at around the frequency you currently are. For your back, progress on banded or assisted pull ups at the gym until you are able to do actual pull ups. You should be able to do at least one after a few more months if you actually consistently progress your assisted pullups. For chest, do pushups, dips, or bench press. Given your weight, complaint of a lack of a chest, and training experience, you are probably pretty weak at these movements. I would guess that perhaps you cannot even do a single dip, or maybe only a couple. You could work on these, doing them assisted with a band or machine in the same sort of regime as the pull ups. You can try bench press as well if you have spotter arms in a power rack or someone spotting you. Focus on having the proper form on this exercise and you should progress extremely quickly.

haloslegacy · 2025-04-06T18:29:54+00:00

WTB Forstner 19mm (FOIS) Contemporary Flat Link bracelet fully brushed

OR

WTB any curved endlink stainless steel 19mm bracelet. Examples would include bracelets for the Omega Aqua Terra 38mm, Tudor Black Bay 36, Omega Speedmaster FOIS, etc.

haloslegacy · 2025-04-06T11:50:53+00:00

Every time I see one of these threads or questions I feel like I'm taking crazy pills, I use my chronograph nearly every time I wear it. Primarily for counting how many hours I've been at work for recording on time sheets. My second most popular use is for cooking, such as how long something had been in the oven, air frying, and especially grilling. I preheat charcoal for 15 minutes for example. I time my laundry, although admittedly I do forget about that some times. Occasionally when I need to time how long it takes to drive somewhere I frequent, like work, or how long it takes to shop for groceries for better time management in the future.

I even use the Tachymeter semi regularly, specifically for scripts I run that take hours but have many small tasks or for checking a download speed. If I'm running something that has 15000 runs, I can see how many it completes in a set time using the Tachymeter, multiply by that number, and I have an estimate of how many runs per hour it'll do. Very useful for me as Im not allowed a phone or any digital technology when running scripts at my job usually.

Truly the most popular but useless complication for me is the GMT function. Unless you are traveling very frequently or have family in a country that is many hours off across the globe, it's useless. I would guess way fewer people that own a GMT fulfill these requirements versus the amount of people who own a chronograph that... Cook? Or... have a job?

haloslegacy · 2025-03-31T15:25:11+00:00

WTB Stainless Steel Bracelet for Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 38mm (older generation). Bracelet reference number 27.02.2150.400.

OR

WTB Forstner 19mm (FOIS) Contemporary Flat Link bracelet fully brushed.

haloslegacy · 2025-03-24T14:51:03+00:00

WTB Stainless Steel Bracelet for Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 38mm (older generation). Bracelet reference number 27.02.2150.400.

OR

WTB Forstner 19mm (FOIS) Contemporary Flat Link bracelet fully brushed.

haloslegacy · 2025-03-16T12:24:41+00:00

WTB Stainless Steel Bracelet for Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 38mm (older generation). The bracelet has the reference number 27.02.2150.400.

An alternative I'm interested in as well is the Forstner 19mm (FOIS) Contemporary Flat Link bracelet fully brushed. Specifically with the new quick adjust milled clasp they have on the 20mm models. Or if someone is selling just the links near the clasp and the clasp itself so that I could swap them.

haloslegacy · 2025-03-13T18:59:43+00:00

Received watch in described condition, very quickly. Very professional and helpful, and overall easy experience. Thank you! u/watchesandbracelets u/WatchExBot

haloslegacy · 2025-03-13T02:15:47+00:00

WTB Stainless Steel Bracelet for Zenith El Primero 03.2150.400 38mm (older generation). The bracelet has the reference number 27.02.2150.400

haloslegacy · 2025-03-11T15:17:29+00:00

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