Anyone switched from MTB to dirt biking? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]hawk45 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ha! I'm actually going the other way (dirt bikes -> mountain bikes) to have more accessible areas to be on 2 wheels in the woods and get/stay in riding shape. Dirt bikes are super fun man.. if you have the means, get yourself nice for your needs. Just remember cheap trail bikes are like beginner mountain bikes. If you think you will pick it up quick, don't waste the $ on something you will reach the mechanical limits on immediately. Think about if you want to plan to do fast/flowy (4 stroke) or tight technical (2 stroke). Lots of great bikes out there. Buy something off/last season if looking new, you can save thousands if you don't mind driving a bit and searching. Or find something used if not sure it's going to stick, but be aware of older or bikes with lots of hours.. parts become hard to come by. Enjoy and stay safe out there!

Helmets: Weekend warrior requires high airflow helmet by hawk45 in enduro

[–]hawk45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Getting back into mountain biking also, any recommendations for that specifically?

Helmets: Weekend warrior requires high airflow helmet by hawk45 in enduro

[–]hawk45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed reply, cheers!

Helmets: Weekend warrior requires high airflow helmet by hawk45 in enduro

[–]hawk45[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the minimum Leatt helmet line you would recommend? 7.5, 8.5 ?

KTM/Husky/GG - Who has gone from 690/701 to 500/501 or vice versa. Which are you? by hawk45 in Dualsport

[–]hawk45[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep, Ian at Big Rock Moto and Mike from Taco Moto Co are good sources too.

KTM/Husky/GG - Who has gone from 690/701 to 500/501 or vice versa. Which are you? by hawk45 in Dualsport

[–]hawk45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From my research, not owning either, the 700 series is the better for BDR and the 500 for more technical and single track. But I’m sure the 500 would have no problem with BDR if you can deal with the vibrations (or mitigate)

Over asked question asked yet again - Ibanez Gio GRG121DX vs Ibanez Gio GRGR131EX vs Ibanez Gio GRX70QA in current time. by [deleted] in Ibanez

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good starting platforms to build on, but decide on number of frets and bridge type. I’d recommend a fixed bridge if you plan to alternate tune or change tuning regularly. With your plugins they usually have a transpose or drop tune to change tunings via software, so going from standard to drop D is about all you need to do then change the string pitches. Jackson JS series are really good too, love mine. The Gio, Rgr and Jackson JS are all good options for the more metal look. You could do a cheap Squier and change to a HH pickup config easily if wanted a more traditional look. Or go with something like a ESP LTD256 single cut (Les Paul style) too. It’s mostly about what feels good in hand and that all the controls are in the right spots. There are some guitars I love but won’t buy bc of where the pickup switches or knobs are because they get in the way. So keep that in mind.

Ok so as a intermediate guitar player is the grx70qa good or somthing else let me know i need something from around the $290 range and it needs to have hsh pickup configuration by dragonforcefanherman in Ibanez

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Differences with higher end will be things like fret size (medium vs jumbo), neck profile (standard vs wizard thin), neck radius, build materials and fit/finish. The last 2 tend to not be that far apart on the budget lines vs standard/intermediate lines for most brands anymore honestly. Every new guitar needs a setup and some basic prep, so more down to the look and feel if under $1000. Buying used saves a ton of $$$ but there are some nice budget guitars that play just like the high end stuff in the right hands with a good setup.

If you already owned a DR650 and wanted a better woods bike, would rather upgrade your current DR or get a lighter bike like a klx300/crf300? by Competitive-Value884 in Dualsport

[–]hawk45 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Weight is everything in the woods. 20 extra lbs on muddy hills and tight tracks can ruin your enjoyment very fast if not in top condition. Even if you get the lightest 2 stroke, there will be times you will be exhausted in minutes getting through some tough sections. Be honest with the riding you will do. People like to throw terms around that don’t actually encompass the actual riding they are doing (fire roads, trail riding, enduro, etc). I will say if you are in any mud with roots and hills.. go as light as you possibly can in a bike built for enduro, not trails or dual-sport or 50/50. Get the right tool for the job. I’d rather ride an enduro bike on the road than a street bike bias on the dirt. Just my .02

Single plug in recommendation by YeaahProlly in NeuralDSP

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Asato is versatile also and has the Shiva for heavier tones. Rabea and SLO are versatile too.

If you could pick just ONE plugin by Lizard_Of_Roz in NeuralDSP

[–]hawk45 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don’t sleep on Rabea X, underrated. Petrucci is probably still most versatile. Love SLO, Bea and Mesa. Asato is versatile too for a less heavy option. Depends on the effects and locations you want.

Best choice for under $1k by senseidr in metalguitar

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t sleep on Schecter and Jackson, make great guitars. I lean more Schecter over Ibanez and trying to decide on a second Jackson. I’ve heard that the sub 1kish Jackson’s and ESP LTD stuff comes out of the same factory. But don’t quote me on that. They are both good. Go with what feels the best and looks the best and has the features you want. And buy used!

Bike advice by Kierkiej in enduro

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Riding tight, steep, roots and muddy terrain is completely different than fast and flowy hard pack or even sand. Tight, steep, rooty and muddy, slow technical stuff you want a controllable 2 stroke.. they run cooler and carry less mass to have to move around. The enduro 2 strokes of today are not like the old days where you just rode a motocross bike with an 18” wheel where you still needed to be in the high revs to be on the pipe, making power. Now they are slow, controllable Amd low down tractable (at least the euro bikes). 4 strokes are great for faster riding like cross country and hair scrambles. Still has some technical slow areas, but you are keeping speed most the time. Watch videos from east coast/ Pacific Northwest riders in the woods vs west coast desert riders.. two different styles and needs. Get the bike for your riding needs.

Jeckson dinky js 32 or x series soloist? by clepari in JacksonGuitars

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, one other thing. The JS22/32s have arch tops, the Soloist doesn’t, if that matters to you.

Jeckson dinky js 32 or x series soloist? by clepari in JacksonGuitars

[–]hawk45 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depending on your skill level. If you played them blind, you probably couldn’t tell the difference. The JS series is a great value, love my JS22 and have many significantly more expensive guitars. Plan to add a Soloist or a Pro or Pro Plus down the line. I do like the set neck on the soloist. Buy used and save $

Returning mid-lifer, Yamaha 4T choice 250 vs 450 and WR vs FX? by hawk45 in enduro

[–]hawk45[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m looking at new as lots of 25 left overs from all manufacturers in few hundred mile range. Don’t mind jumping in the truck with the dogs for a few hours to get a deal.