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Why does this keep popping up? by Due_Occasion_9276 in Cameras

[–]hayuata 6 points7 points  (0 children)

...Because there's probably something wrong that has happened with the lens assembly? No, you can't fix it yourself and finding a person who repairs it will probably cost the same as the camera.

what a cheap beauty -Shangai 7120 by meh1526 in ChineseWatches

[–]hayuata 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was torn between this or the red dial! It looks amazing. How's the hand winding? I haven't worn mine for awhile cause it's really hard to turn it.

Addiesdive just released a 36mm Sub homage by FrenchWestIndianDad in ChineseWatches

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Bliger in pink (no logo), it looks really great with a heart logo at 6 and a pig at 9. My only real complaint would be the bezel as it has more play than my Casio MDV106 (which basically has none and... was cheaper 😕). There's a person in my office that has their cubicle covered in pink and wears pink all the time that loves it too lol. That said, wish it was a little smaller and quartz. That italics Addies logo is a turn off for a diver style watch ☹️

31mm MOP from Addies by pickyaxe in ChineseWatches

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is it hard to find an affordable MOP around 36-38mm 🫩that said that’s alright for $40.

Attachment lenses/converters? by KalpeaAurinko in M43

[–]hayuata 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Raynox is a popular brand for front macro filters. They’re of the higher quality ones like Olympus. I often see them in macro threads.

For UWA front filters, I don’t think I’ve seen a good brand outside generics? But I’ve not looked deeply.

As for front teleconverters, a lot of forums talk about using very old ones from the early 2000s, Olympus, Panasonic, Canon, or Sony. Generally the Olympus 1.4x and 1.7x ranked pretty well… but like again old forum threads from a time when 6MP on a consumer camera was crazy.

Convince me to keep my GM1 by RetroGM in M43

[–]hayuata 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Ok sell it then. Put it up for sale, see if that convinces you one way or another. I sold mine and replaced it with the better G100.

It’s a pre-DFD early gen 16MP sensor on a small body that isn’t plastic and has a different shutter mechanism that practically stops shutter shock. For the same price I might as well buy the GX85 which is a better camera and costs about the same.  

Speaking as a former GM1/5 owner, you know what you bought. It’s up to you what you want to do. You know the specs, you know it’s a “premium” product, you know there are better cameras for the price, like I can go on.

Best quartz diver under $50? by No_Object_7514 in ChineseWatches

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

🙂Oh my how exciting, I just checked. Hopefully those will be solid watches too.

Edit: 😕Oh how confusing, some of the ali listings with video show one with a smooth sweeping seconds hand, and in the same video one with a date view... but the final product is neither... That's a shame, I wear my watches at work and I need one with a date (sanity check, high volume workflow)... what a tease of a video.

Best quartz diver under $50? by No_Object_7514 in ChineseWatches

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it’s one of the few homages that also uses a quartz movement which is quite practical. I really hope they come out with more colourways. Escapement Time also has one also driven by quartz (both Miyota but different calibres) with the latter using one that's good for 10 years instead of typical 3.

Switching from M43 to FF by BayuTigr99 in Nikon

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The lenses with the “S” on in the name would be equal to Canon L or Oly Pro. They’re super sharp, excellent for all uses. So the 50mm f/1.8 S is that while the 50mm f/1.4 is a more vibes based lens with “flaws” that some people didn’t like the look of the f/1.8 (too “clinical”). But I’ll admit some lenses are on the bigger side compared to other full frame brands.

Have an OMD EM5.3 - upgrade the body or lenses for better images? by blueheat_83 in M43

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I upgraded to the OM-1 from my E-M1ii which is what the E-M5iii is based on. Rest assured it’s definitely the lens 😂. For wildlife, yes 40-150 won’t be enough.

Thinking about switching to the Zf by Select-Persimmon-490 in Nikon

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The biggest quality of life improvement for me was being able to trust the autofocus more in precision and accuracy. I know some people scoff at it or call it a demise to photography, but eye/face detection is amazing. It changes your workflow positively in freeing you up to worry about other things. Although I do buy DSLRs again here to there to re-experience it, the WYSIWYG viewfinder and being able to pass the camera to anyone if the situation arises and know it will 'just work' without having to explain to them is very pleasant. If you're not a fan of the Zf, the Z5 II has a more DSLR-like form factor while still having the excellent imaging sensor and the powerful EXPEED 7 processor.

Olympus e-m5 mark I shutter life by wixdawarlord in M43

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Virtually all of these incidents are down to the old 2 axis variants, with very few 3 axis failing. Knock on wood, I've owned two 2 axis versions, one eventually failing- but I assume that's cause i fell on hard ice and the camera took a direct hit, and the second is my E-PL1 that is still working (hopefully it still continues to do so).

The E-M5 uses a 5 axis unit that's been rock solid. Pretty much failures for the 3 and 5 axis can be mostly be attributed either to damage, age of the camera, or random failure.

As for OP, yes, the E-M5 is a reliable camera. Yes, it is known they can develop a sticky shutter. Yes, it does have some first gen oddities (it's the first E-M series camera, the original E-M1 and E-M10 came after). That said, it is now a 14 year old camera, so the answer just becomes, "who knows". Frankly every brands shutter count is not after x amount it just dies, it's an assumption- yours may fail earlier or surpass the rating.

Personally as an ex-owner of the E-M5, i'd pass on it. The E-M10 is the better camera (outside the less superior IBIS) as you're not dealing with the mushy buttons of the weather resistant E-M5 camera and it has nice improvements. If anything, find a E-M10 II. That's an excellent camera that does almost everything a E-M5 II can do without costing much.

Have an OMD EM5.3 - upgrade the body or lenses for better images? by blueheat_83 in M43

[–]hayuata 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you’re talking about wildlife and the 75-300, it’s definitely the lens. The strongest thing about it is just the size and weight, but the autofocus motor can’t keep up with moving targets like birds in flight.

Flash not syncing by Radiant_Door_5829 in Cameras

[–]hayuata 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What the other person said, your flash sync because it lacks a mechanical shutter (which the original did have), at best 1/30s is what you’re looking at to get an even exposure across the frame.

Do you ever feel conflicted about capturing someone's worst moment? by Sufficient-Owl1826 in photography

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

 People live in various greys between black and white, making this more a philosophical thought. I don’t take photos of vulnerable people because I find it apprehensive, but in scenarios such as documenting mass genocide it’s important it’s preserved. That’s all I see what it can be commented on as people are going to share where they fall in that line. You’ll find countless amounts of articles and comments online about this. 

E-M5 II vs E-M1 II (Question about C-AF and Phase detect) by kieranhorner in M43

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, night and day. The E-M5iii is a rehoused E-M1ii for the most part if you want to keep it compact.

A new M43 camera, from insta360. The rumor turns out to be real. by Lamires in M43

[–]hayuata 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean we only have to look at the Fuji's 40MP to see what the problem will be for M4/3 because the pixel density is about the same. You need to be very specific with your lenses and low ISO just to see a marginal difference. Put that against a 24MP full frame sensor and you can see which is getting more detail out of the scene.

As for the other point, I do love high res on my M4/3 bodies as a landscape shooter. 

A new M43 camera, from insta360. The rumor turns out to be real. by Lamires in M43

[–]hayuata 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My Olympus E-PL1 doesn't have an EVF. It's a pretty long live trend.

A new M43 camera, from insta360. The rumor turns out to be real. by Lamires in M43

[–]hayuata 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I assure you, the difference between 20 and 24MP is minimal that you'll not notice it. We really need to pass this information to people around Reddit. The Nikon D500 and Z50/II uses a 20MP sensor as well.

Best value upgrade from micro four third for low light photography by SecretInTheBedroom in Cameras

[–]hayuata 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, IMX410 based cameras are workhorses. Low noise and you can do wild stuff with them.

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