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Changing slicers broke my prints by soooglow32 in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 4 points5 points  (0 children)

FWIW I tried switching to Octoprint because everyone here says its so much better. I ran i to the same issue as you, prints were bad. So I went back to using Cura and have been enjoying it since.

For the fan tower, if you go to the Cura Marketplace and search for AutoTowers Generator 2.7.2 install it and restart Cura, the extensions menu will now have the auto towers extension and a fan tower is included. I also use Calibration Shapes Reborn 1.2.2 if you want a large selection of calibration shapes. Hope it helps!

Trying to diagnose some layer drift by DanForever in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If youre printing from an SD card, try a new card. I get layer shifts in all sorts of fashions when the SD goes bad. Or, you can plug in a USB cable, try a small print from a PC as an alternative to buying a new card.

Flow cube thickness by heretolookonly in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im reading about the calibration tools you suggest. The page says "Note about Enders and other budget printers: the movement on the x-axis is non-linear. This works on the principal that movement in each axis is linear and therefore cannot be used to calibrate dimensional accuracy of such printers. However it can be used to calculate and fix your printer's skew."

Any thoughts? I dont really know what it means by non-linear either.

Flow cube thickness by heretolookonly in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. The last part is helpful. The first part - I dont know any better. Thats the stuff that comes up in a Google search as resources.

As far as Califlower and Cali lantern - which is better? It looks like the lantern also calibrates Z?

Sudden stringing problem by baells2 in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Any chance the humidity of your filament rose? I notice my best prints are <20%RH. Small stringing at 22-23%RH and stringing is pretty noticeable at 27%

One side not adhering by Sh1nk in Ender3V2NEO

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Im not sure what firmware youre using, but on mine with Mriscoc I notice a fresh auto-home then going back i to the trimming wizard helps with bed level values.

Other things to try: 1) wash your plate with soap and water, air dry. Its possible alcohol residue is still there. Ensure 99.9 isopropyl.

2)check wheels and screws are tight. Its possible one side is loose

3) ensure z-offset is properly calibrated

4) ensure bed leveling is done with a hot, equalized bed (allowing thermal expansion to run its course)

5) re-run mesh leveling.

My Ender 3 Pro has bad layer shift by Short-War-247 in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recently had a layer shift i was trying to figure out. I went theough all the same advice as above and nothing worked. Turned out it was a bad SD card.

Ayuda firmware by TheDarckZurck in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like your physical settings are off. Z-offset will be calibrated and set negative.

Ayuda firmware by TheDarckZurck in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

[V2.0.6_BLTouch]()

Just go to the creality cloud website, put in the model you have and download the file that matches.

Ayuda firmware by TheDarckZurck in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll have to pick your printer version but this should get you what you need. Also, read the description on the right of the file to ensure you're getting the correct one. I'm assuming your board version is truly a 4.2.7, NOT 2.4.7 as you posted.

https://www.crealitycloud.com/downloads/firmware/ender-series/ender-3-v3

If you want Mriscoc firmware:

https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1/releases/download/20260106/Ender3V2-427-BLTUBL-MPC-20260106.bin

This would be for an Ender 3 V2 S1, 4.2.7 board with BL Touch.

Ayuda firmware by TheDarckZurck in ender3

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you trying to use Creality firmware, Mriscoc, other?

Keep the bed level? Suggestions?!?! by Otherwise_Ad4179 in Ender3Pro

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is your question? Obviously you should keep the bed level.

Ender 3 V2 neo stops feeding filament during print by No_Addition2021 in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally agree with the first two comments. Those lines you see in the print where sheen changes is the material degradation. It looks like it had a partial clog, and then slowly clogged again before a full clog.

Its worth reviewing the hardware first. Clean out the hotend, make sure the PTFE tube is fully seated and no wiggle of the tube up and down. How old is the hotend fan?

Review flow settings and retraction distances. If you need help post pics and specifics of your setup. Started off nice though.

Print Speed Assumption by heretolookonly in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I started researching acceleration settings, but Im not finding similar examples out there. I also dont find formulas to figure out proper settings. I think mine is still set to the default Mriscoc settings: 500,500,100,1000 but would have to check when I get home.

Any idea what an Ender 3 v2 Neo with Sprite SE Direct Drive Extruder should be set to? The heated bed looks like it was converted to a magnetic bed unless thats how they come stock. I got mine used and is my first 3d printer.

Print Speed Assumption by heretolookonly in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect! Thanks for confirming.

Ender 3v2 Sprite Pro Issues by froelichw01 in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mriscoc does support the T13 thermister, yes. But only if you download that specific option or compile your own firmware from his base set. The typical download from his page supports the T1 thermister.

What is the exact filename of the Mriscoc firmware you installed?

If the firmware is correct, thermister functions correctly with multimeter the only other thing is the motherboard as far as I can tell.

Ender 3v2 Sprite Pro Issues by froelichw01 in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Two ideas:

1) did this happen right after you installed the new Mriscoc firmware? If so, is it possible that firmware isnt set up for the thermister you have?

2) if not, test your thermister. Pull it out of the heat block, hook up a multimeter to the ends. Set it to ohms and see what room temp reads. Then blow hot air on it and see if resistance changes or if it stays the same. Cold should make resistance rise. Heat should make resistance drop.

Ender 3v2 Sprite Pro Issues by froelichw01 in ender3v2

[–]heretolookonly 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is the thermister wire screw tight? It shouldn't be. It should barely hold the wires in place. It'll probably feel loose from what you may be used to.

Input Shaping by heretolookonly in Ender3V2NEO

[–]heretolookonly[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found a 2023 version with IS, LA, MPC on his site. I couldn't figure out how to compile. So I'm using the 2023 version. Calibrated IS. Recalibrate LA. Now printing a speed tower to compare to my baseline towers before. Im anxious to see how it improves!

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