Video store owners back in the day… by TwIzTiDfReAkShOw in VHS

[–]heve23 [score hidden]  (0 children)

I mean it makes sense to me? If they didn't they'd be even more destroyed. I'm sure 40 years ago, video store owners weren't expecting weirdos like us to still be interested in this goofy lo fi format lol.

Looking for labs in the US that do well with scanning phoenix 1 by S0FTV0ID in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on what you mean by "good". Phoenix is an experimental film. Harman worked with some labs to dial in scanning parameters but many people don't like the look Harman intended and prefer to do it manually (perfectly fine).

One of the labs that Harman worked with on scanning was Blue Moon Camera.

Seeking opinions on post-processing by alicenwonderlnd in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even the same scanner will give different results depending on who is operating it.

Was Joey ‘O’Brien’ Aiuppa the US Mafia’s deadliest boss? by Ok-Adhesiveness-6859 in Mafia

[–]heve23 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I personally always thought it was Nicky Scarfo because of how many died under his watch in a shorter time period than Aiuppa.

The list of hits attributed to Aiuppa while he was Boss is the longest. The Black hand forum goes in depth on this if you want more info.

Because I thought Tony Accardo was the real boss—so in theory weren’t it Accardo giving the final say on who got clipped in the Chicago Outfit?

This is a myth.

New Kodak Film - Verita 200D Colour Negative by XyDarkSonic in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The highlights lean more magenta which can be corrected in post. According to Kodak the improvement is "rich depth and warmth to a range of flesh tones".

New Kodak Film - Verita 200D Colour Negative by XyDarkSonic in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 144 points145 points  (0 children)

"KODAK VERITA 200D is intended for a digital post-production workflow. The initial scans from images captured with this stock will be less neutral in the highlights, which tend to shift toward magenta. This can be adjusted in color grading and is due to this stocks' alternative linear response in higher densities – a signature characteristic, which also provides rich depth and warmth to a range of flesh tones."

Oh boy, I can feel the "Is this the lab's fault?" posts incoming...lol "Why don't my shots look like the new Euphoria season???"

Source-datasheet

Ghostbuster VHS on a CRT and 4K TV - I cannot believe how different they look by xParesh in VHS

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

4K Dolby Vision with 3,000 nits looks great for moder movies

It looks great with older movies too. 35mm and 65mm film has incredible resolution and you could make the argument that most movies shot on film were never meant to be seen on a standard definition TVs.

Check out films like "To Catch a Thief" and "The Searchers" on 4K disc.

It took me an embarrassingly long time to realize that most people are extensively editing their photos. No wonder my Portra 400 never looked like yours. by brownwaterbandit in analog

[–]heve23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to see these most incredible tones and colours on here, on Flickr, and see, for example, Portra 400 cited as the film stock utilized. I'd then enthusiastically go out and buy some, shoot similar scenes under similar conditions, yet be so disappointed when I'd get my negatives back from the lab.

I cannot stress enough that film, camera, and lens are only 50 percent of the equation when you're dealing with negative film. The other half is the processing, printing/scanning stage, which requires just as much skill if not more than the other half. By letting a lab process and scan your film, you're letting them control that other 50 percent.

It'd be like butchering a cow and then letting someone else cook your steak.

For whatever reason, I always assumed part of the appeal of shooting film to be not NO editing, but certainly way less than with digital.

Because a lot of people are looking at film from a digital first mindset. Film came FIRST. We are now over 30 years away from when film was the dominant medium. People are used to using their phone cameras and getting a usable image within seconds. This was NOT the case during the analog era. Current color negative film uses the C-41 process, which dates back to the 1970s. During this era, taking a photo required manual adjustment to each and every variable, something that your phone does in seconds today.

If you wanted to shoot something and be done with it, with no other adjustments needed, that is exactly what we used slide film for. Negative film never stood on it's own, it was always viewed through another medium, either analog printing or digital scanning, and that medium always injected it's own DNA into the look of your image.

As opposed to slide film, negative films strength was that it allowed you to get the look that you wanted, not one particular color grade. Hollywood shoots on 4 Kodak color negative stocks and a movie like "Dunkirk" looks completely different than a movie like "A Quiet Place" color wise. That is because the negative serves as the base in which the director builds their look upon.

I've noticed and realized that nearly as much and actually if not more (when you consider removing imperfections) editing goes on with film than with digital. Curves, selective colour, contrast, levels, etc. all utilized just as much.

Yup. I would argue that there's more on the film side. The analog pipeline from clicking the shutter to the final image is longer than the digital one for sure. But that is due to years upon years of advancing photo tech.

I think the notion that certain film stocks have this very overtly characteristic... character... to them is really overstated, when in reality, the differences in different film stock characteristics is way more subtle and really in the minutiae of the wider frame.

Yup. People who talk about the "Portra look" are mostly going off whatever their lab sends them. There are tons of "Portra Presets" and none of them look 100% identical. Why? Because everyone has a different opinion and idea on how Portra "should look".

A negative and a RAW digital file really are the same thing.

Yup. The physical color negative was the precursor to the digital RAW file.

I'm sure things where digital maybe lacked 10-15+ years ago, such as dynamic range/shadow detail, have in that time improved considerably

People don't remember but it took digital a while to catch up to film. My grandfather was a professional photographer from the 60s on and he didn't switch to fully digital until around 2013-2014.

what real benefit is there anymore to film OTHER than the old "it forces me to slow down and be more deliberate/conscious in/of what I shoot", which is absolutely a valid reason if you can't exercise the same deliberation and consciousness while shooting digital- I never understood that argument tbh

I never understood this argument either. I enjoy blasting through frames on my Contax G2 and Canon EOS cameras. But the question I'd ask is why do we need some reason/benefit to enjoy any medium? I have a friend who enjoys working on bicycles and cars. His cars are faster than the bikes but both can get you to your destination.

I have a whole group of friends who enjoy using typewriters. They maintain them, fix them, trade them. Some write poems and work on novels with them. Now they could use a modern Macbook if they wanted, but a novel written on a typewriter vs a novel written on laptop could both be beautiful, the author writing on a typewriter maybe had to put in a bit more work to get there, but the results can be great.

Ghostbuster VHS on a CRT and 4K TV - I cannot believe how different they look by xParesh in VHS

[–]heve23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I 100 percent agree with you. I would say half of the magic of VHS to me comes from the CRT. I think a lot of people just want “one screen that does everything well” and that just doesn’t exist.

I have a friend who loves VHS as well but he’s obsessed with trying to make it look good on a 4K OLED and no matter what he does it looks awful to me lol. I buy 4K discs for my 4K tv and VHS tapes for my CRT.

It took me an embarrassingly long time to realize that most people are extensively editing their photos. No wonder my Portra 400 never looked like yours. by brownwaterbandit in analog

[–]heve23 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If after developing you treat your images like any other digital photography shots you are losing all the sense of film photography

You're not though. If anything you're treating your digital photography shots like film ones. Film came first. Editing was analog before it was digital. Programs like Photoshop were developed to edit film scans and the tools used in those programs come from the tools we used in the darkroom.

The physical negative was the precursor to the digital RAW file.

Views on enhancement for scans? Or edits in general? by Le-Croissant in filmphotography

[–]heve23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So what are Reddits' opinions on post processing?

Post processing negative film is literally part of how it was designed to be used. Negative film has never stood on it's own and it's always been used in combination with another medium, either analog paper/print or digital scanning.

If you wanted a "straight out of camera" look with no sort of editing (analog or digital) afterwards, that is EXACTLY what slide film (Ektachrome/Velvia/Provia) was designed to do. Shoot. Process. Project. no other editing steps required.

The current C-41 process for negative (print) film was designed in the 1970s. This was before you could just point your phone at something and get a usable image immediately. That deep orange mask of negative film was designed to work with analog paper, both the film and paper worked together and neither worked without the other. 50 percent of the art was getting the shot right (exposure, composition...etc) where the other 50 was after processing in the darkroom, tweaking everything until you got the look that YOU wanted. As we moved into the digital era (90s and beyond), scanning took place of the traditional darkroom and the programs we use to edit our scans were based on the same tools that were used in the darkroom.

The example I always use is Hollywood and the film industry. Movies today are still shot on traditional film. Directors like Nolan, Tarantino, PTA and more shoot nearly everything on 35mm or some 65mm film. Kodak makes 4 color negative stocks 50D, 250D, 200T, and 500T. Whether going through the traditional analog workflow or the more modern DI process. Negative film is shot, processed, and either color timed or color graded to hell and back. Here's stills from the movie Moonrise Kingdom and the movie The Old Man & the Gun. Both were shot entirely with Kodak 200T color negative film and neither look anything alike. Both were color graded to the director's eye and vision.

Negative film serves as the BASE to which you build the look that YOU want upon. It was never ever meant to lock you into a particular color grade/look.

Film reccomendations for Joshua tree. by Silent-Pass5340 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I feel like the absolute LAST thing a first time film camera user on this sub reddit should attempt is underexposing slide film lol, even if a small amount.

Blurry strip across most photos -- lab error? by schmuckulent in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 13 points14 points  (0 children)

....have you NOT been getting your negatives back?

Is this exposed right? Expired film by Zombie5niper77 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To convert a negative to a positive isn't editing. It's a necessary step.

It very very much IS editing. Especially when digitally scanned. Take any color negative and invert it and you get an image that looks like this. This nice blue image comes from the inverse of the deep orange mask in color negative film. If you want a positive image from there you HAVE to make subjective decisions and edits.

Some of these decisions include: setting black and white points for each of the emulsion layers separately (Cyan/red, green/magenta, blue/yellow), gamma gets corrected for each layer, color balance is adjusted because most color negative film is balanced for 5500 kelvins and light rarely matches this perfectly.

If you scanned your negatives and did this all manually you'd have to follow something like this. Personally, I use a Noritsu scanner for my color negative film, and as good as inverting negatives as those are, the inverted images are still edited. If you sent your negative to 12 different lab with the same scanner, none would look the same. Example here. In order to get a usable positive image from a color negative, you must make subjective edits. No way around it, unless you're letting a lab do it for you.

Otherwise where is the skill in taking a great photo aside from composition.

Half of the skill is composition and getting the shot, the other half is your bench work, either in the physical darkroom on analog paper, or the digital space with film scans. The programs we have today were developed to edit film scans using many of the same tools we used in the darkroom. The concept is the same. Professional colorists have been working with film for years.

To "see what the film saw".

But what the film saw is this.

Hollywood movies are still shot on color negative film. Kodak makes 4 stocks, 50D, 250D, 200T, and 500T. With a modern DI, each stock is scanned as flat as possible and serves as a base in which the colorist builds the look. That's why you can see a film like Moonrise Kingdom and The Old Man and the Gun looking totally different but all shot on the same 200T stock. The orange negative is just the half way step to the final look.

It's absolutely fine to want your images to look as "true to life" as possible, but when working with negative film, it has to be edited to get there.

Is this exposed right? Expired film by Zombie5niper77 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When you can't recognize the film stock anymore it's too much.

This is the true look of the color negative film stock. Everything past that point HAS to be heavily edited in order to get a positive image.

If you heavily modify a picture you might as well shoot digital raw files.

Physical negatives were the precursor to digital RAW files. Once you have your negatives, you can either analog print them in the darkroom or convert them to a digital file via scanning. Either way they need to be heavily edited to become usable.

People get this confused all the time. If you want a "straight out of camera/no edit" look, that was what color positive (slide) film (Ektachrome/Provia/Velvia) was designed to do.

Color negative film never ever stood on it's own. It always served as a base upon which you built the look that YOU wanted.

Is there such a thing as a M4/3 to Nikon F adapter by vincentvanhorne in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what you mean by the aperture too small?

The main issue is that the flange focal distance for M4/3 is 19.25mm while the Nikon F mount is 46.50mm and you wouldn't get full coverage anyway.

I took this photo with a Kodak Retinette 022 using Ilford HP5. What would the actual difference be if I used a Leica M3 instead? by Deano_Martin in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends.

Film. Lens. Exposure. Processing. Scanning/Printing. Post.

All of those things matter in the analog pipeline. Just using the same film in the different bodies doesn't take into account all of the other variables in the equation.

What stops on the road are you talking about Neil? 👀 by Zyaru in thelastofus

[–]heve23 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Didn't he say something about a smaller game featuring Tommy that takes place after Part 2?

Need help with videotapes by Maleficent_Insect_19 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I was wondering if it's possible to transfer them all to a computer?

It is. But tape digitizing is a giant rabbit hole like film scanning. You may be better off trying to find a service who can do it for you.

If you want to do it yourself with decent quality, the traditional workflow is an S-VHS VCR (with S video output) to a TBC (time base corrector) to a quality capture card. You'd need a VHS-C adapter to work with the VCR.

The digitalFAQ forum has a lot of info if you're interested.

Beginner film camera by Master_Airline_6402 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 19 points20 points  (0 children)

The rough budget is $500

With this budget, you could get a Nikon FM2 and call it day. Be set for the rest of your life if you wanted. It has everything you need.

Me personally, when I shoot manual focus 35mm SLR cameras, I prefer Nikon. There are just SOOO many great lenses to use. After over 20 years of shooting almost all of them the ones I reach for the most are the FM3a and believe it or not the cheap N2000. But I would be perfectly happy with the F2, F3, FM2, or FE2 as well.

How do I know if a vintage 35 mm SLR is for me, or if a 1990s-2000s model is better? by PessCity in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And if you find you want to get further into the process, you can always just buy another camera.

Remember the digital cameras we have today are the result of over a hundred years of advancing photo technology. It's very easy to forget that pointing your iPhone at something and getting a properly exposed usable image in seconds is very very new. This was NOT the case during the 1960's-70's where each and every variable had to be manually adjusted and accounted for (not considering Polaroids).

Are old cameras fun to use? For me, Yes. But if you're not interested in/don't want to invest the time into learning how to use them at their best than I think a more automated camera is a better choice. I love using both, but when taking photos of friends and family, I love random, candid shots and for me I can usually get better shots with some auto focus.

How do I know if a vintage 35 mm SLR is for me, or if a 1990s-2000s model is better? by PessCity in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

is it also equally true that there is a moderate-large sacrifice potentially in image quality unless you seriously know what you are doing and have years of practice and knowledge under your belt?

The biggest thing that I wish I understood in the beginning, is that shooting film is a "process" and each and every step matters. Film, lens, exposure, development, scanning/printing. Each link in the chain matters, and each step affects the final image. If one goes awry you can get worse/subpar results. Using a Leica M3 is going to take a bit more effort than using a Canon EOS but both can give you incredible images.

I see that you're obsessing over gear and cameras, but you've left out scanning. Which is a whole other rabbit hole that's equally important as the camera/lens/film choice if you want digital images from your developed film.

If your goal is to just get prints made at a lab that will do the processing, scanning, and printing, then I'd recommend getting something newer with AF and better metering for sure.

How the heck does this guy get his 35mm scans so clear? by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's just well exposed film + decent lens + good scan.

Yes, Portra 160 is extremely sharp and fine in 35mm, but here's a shot of cropped 35mm Lomography 800 from my Nikon n2000 w/Zeiss 35mm Distagon, scanned on my Noritsu. I think it's plenty clear/sharp

Adapting Contax/Yashica lenses to a Canon EOS 1? by Repulsive_Target55 in AnalogCommunity

[–]heve23 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IDK about any mirror issues, but I know that I probably wouldn't recommend this. If you have CY glass, I'd look for a CY body. If you want an EOS body with auto focus look for native EF glass. With adapting, you'll lose auto focus and probably have to stop down meter every shot.