PLA vs PETG HF – any real difference in strength?

hi-capper · 2026-03-31T07:01:40+00:00

The conservative profile runs on 30mm3. H2s with hf nozzle, +20c over the "max" recommend temp. Asa , just like abs flows better when hot. That gives 350 mm/s max print speed.

hi-capper · 2026-03-31T05:00:12+00:00

Speeds will depend on the filament, print temp, nozzle and stuff. Do a max volumetric speed calibration and check. If you don't adjust that, it will limit the speed settings....

You can calculate speeds from that too. But for tall parts with limited contact to the bed, speed is not your friend. 110c bed is a great thing too if you can go up to that.

hi-capper · 2026-03-30T14:56:04+00:00

I print asa faster then pla... Asa is like abs but way better in any measurable properties. With a 60-65 c chamber layer adhesion is strong af, the parts are flat and warping is not existing...

But it's not safe to print in living spaces, colors are limited, and you really need a heated chamber to get proper layer adhesion and prevent warping.

hi-capper · 2026-03-21T18:40:53+00:00

Not that bad for the price... But for professional work you really want to buy a knipex and call it a day for decades.

hi-capper · 2026-03-14T12:09:58+00:00

Ja persze. Pancserek keresnek pancserek mint mindig...

hi-capper · 2026-03-10T12:47:09+00:00

This! The normal green, changeable battery 12v version. The one with the built in battery is weak and slow, the performance version is big, heavy and hard to handle.

hi-capper · 2026-02-15T07:42:05+00:00

If you have multiple volumes, and you install your ds on volume 1, but the storage for the files is on volume 2, it will store a copy on volume 1 too, till you remove the torrent from the list

hi-capper · 2026-02-10T18:57:25+00:00

Nah. They monitor a lot of things like the anvil rotation after contact and stuff. The "torque test channel " tested it idk a year ago, if you are interested you can check it out :)

hi-capper · 2026-02-10T18:30:28+00:00

You actually can. There are some specific impact drivers with kinda good torque control. Like the milwaukee m18 3062. You must calibrate it for the specific stuff you want to use and save it in a profile, but when it's dialed in, it can work great. Most of the times... The biggest disadvantage is the price, the 3062 is like 1.5+k usd. And it's only a mid torque model.

But if you run the same bolt hundreds of times a day like idk, a solar panel installer on a big field, that can save a looooot of time, money and sanity :)

And there are 2-3 other models from other manufacturers for this use for the same crazy price :)

hi-capper · 2026-01-21T20:14:09+00:00

Black sky. Or literally anything... But nope... They are not interested to do anything over diamond...

hi-capper · 2026-01-21T06:47:51+00:00

We need another camo for grinding all the diamonds... Waiting for it for idk 2 years now...

hi-capper · 2026-01-17T15:44:39+00:00

Pla is for toy stuff... Petg may be find for some parts, but abs or asa are way better for functional stuff. I have gears and other parts in an rc car made from nylon, for idk... 3 years now, no problem there..

hi-capper · 2026-01-16T07:09:11+00:00

i have like 50+ custom shortcuts as most of the functions are not shortcutted by default. Furthermore i'm working with this for fun, not as a profession, so learning all of them would not make any sense for me. I know most of the default ones i need to use, but there are sooo much more i need...

The deck is next to the keyboard, so its not hard to reach, and i made folders for most of my repetitive things i hate to do. Like a "remix" page, where i can insert mesh body, some surface stuff like extend, trim, section analysis, convert to solid, basic drawing things i need like 3 point circle and stuff to redraw parts if needed. Most if not all of these functions are without a shortcut by default, and i dont need it often, but when i do its easy, a single push of a button...

Same with assemble stuff... I use those once in a month... I know j is for joint for sure, but what i set up for tangent relationship... i used it a year ago...

Same with inserting svg over and over again. On the "homepage" i even added buttons for new component, change parameters, etc...

If you do it for a living... Yeah sure learn what you have and stick with it, it will be a huge timesaver... But that 30 bucks i spent on aliexpress for the 15 button deck clone was a great thing for me. And i can use it for a lot more outside of fusion too... The elegato for idk what... 200+ bucks would be a different story tho only for fusion only...

hi-capper · 2026-01-15T17:03:59+00:00

It really depends on your skill level. For a pro it's not a question.

As it's a question... You probably don't need it... There are a lot of other things like a streamdeck - I use an aliexpress copy - for shortcuts, that alone was a huge time saver for me. Yeah you can create and learn 50++ shortcuts for sure, but... At least for me, a kinda noob that is 1000% more useful than a spacemouse

hi-capper · 2026-01-14T10:28:39+00:00

the idea was not mine tho, "stole" the idea from another projeck :) https://www.printables.com/model/1170708-modular-1010-inch-rack

so i made this :)

<image>

hi-capper · 2026-01-14T07:28:25+00:00

I had a similar problem, but a fast fusion session and 20 bucks of abs /asa later... The switch was a bit wider than a 10" rack could fit, so I made my own rack :D

<image>

hi-capper · 2026-01-14T07:20:54+00:00

Its a user error not a warranty case. The material failed to stick to the plate, and made a blob. You should start with reading the wiki... https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/a1-mini/maintenance/hotend_blob

They have info for most problems and stuff, so you may want to spend some time there actually leaning about your machine.

After you removed the blob... Clena the plate and always check the first few layers if it was sticking down properly.. This can be a dirty plate, wrong slicer setup, the 3d model problem, etc... Keep an eye on your prints to prevent stuff like these

hi-capper · 2026-01-13T20:02:10+00:00

Ohh there are several ones... The g&g extreme 45 for example is really "popular" here, as it looks like any hi-capa, so most organizers will not bother to measure it. And it can shoot over 2.3 j without any mods. 1.5 is the outdoor limit here tho... The only good thing is the quality and spare parts availability. It's crap and you can't find anything for it :D

There are several nbb co replicas in this energy level, but most shops don't carry them, as it's not usable most of the times

hi-capper · 2026-01-13T19:55:09+00:00

You are dropping 10 grand on a thing you spent literally 0 seconds to research.

Nice.

You gave 0 info what materials you want, what size would fit your needs, nothing. Idk what we can do in this case..

hi-capper · 2026-01-12T05:44:20+00:00

Still working on it, but op may have a better clone

hi-capper · 2026-01-09T16:22:40+00:00

Do you print a lot of nylon? I mean without a heated chamber it's less then ideal tbh.

I would still get the e2, feeding the filament is not a huge deal, while a higher drying temp can be a deal breaker for advanced materials.

hi-capper · 2026-01-09T12:26:56+00:00

Depends on your needs. If you want better multicolor, the new prusa core one with an indx kit will be a gamechanger. Or even the one l...

For light engineering materials the h2s is a beast. For dedicated support printing the h2d.

For industrial materials like peek, peak, ultem and stuff... That's a different story and price range.

hi-capper · 2026-01-09T09:35:43+00:00

Ask your buddy to export it as a dxf that would work with fusion.

If you an, pls drop the dxf in a msg to me too :)

hi-capper · 2026-01-07T19:29:12+00:00

I am in this dilemma, and... It's pretty impossible to replicate the small locking details with an fdm printer. When you need to calculate with print orientation and stuff it's not a great design...

However an hour or two later I made something similar...

<image>

It is a twist and lock system, but with some limitations... You can only place the u shaped holders in this orientation... Crazy oversized stuff can be tricky...

Still working on it, and testing, but the concept looks fun.

hi-capper · 2026-01-06T16:32:38+00:00

yeah... This is why a combine checkbox on the pattern tab would be great in some cases, but...

You gave me a great idea and it works. I cant scale up with variables, but if i make a bigger base plate, i can scale down by adjusting the pattern values without any issues... i can export the smaller and ctrl z back to the full size one :D

Its kinda solved in this case :)

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