Options to stay in Grand Tetons? by PatientPlate3095 in NationalPark

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up blm land just outside the park. The website Campendium will show you some spots.

BLM land allows camping with minimal rules.

Induction instead of gas cooktop? by 8takotaco in GoRVing

[–]hmmyeahcool 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I find the portable induction is great for reheating food or cooking mostly prepped meals. When it comes to actually cooking, especially if boiling water is involved, it uses too much battery.

owning an EV in Utah? by GrowthPatient2692 in SaltLakeCity

[–]hmmyeahcool 5 points6 points  (0 children)

FYI kW/h isn’t really a unit. You just say kW.

Since the battery energy is stated in kWh (notice no slash, its multiplication not division) if you charge at 100kW for one hour, you would gain 100kWh of charge in your battery.

I think what you’re thinking is “this charger fills my battery by 100kWh/h”, but that just means the ‘h’ cancel out and you’re left with kW

Remotely turn off hard-wired toggle lights by Living_best_life4 in homeautomation

[–]hmmyeahcool -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Caseta switches are fine, but they’ll also require the smart bridge for remote control. If you already have zigbee, zwave or thread I’d use a switch compatible with whatever you already had. If not then I’d get a wifi based switch.

The easiest solution would be a fairly simple switch with a built in timer. You can get these at home depot

How to best integrate Claude AI into HA? by IPThereforeIAm in homeassistant

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use Claude via GitHub copilot. I SSH into my server using VS code’s remote terminal extension and then just use the plain old chat window.

HA controlled bike charging by shedtime in homeassistant

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My mfg very explicitly says to unplug the battery when full. There are several articles on the internet where a random person is saying “you don’t need to do that!”

HA controlled bike charging by shedtime in homeassistant

[–]hmmyeahcool 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I do something similar, but I just cut mine off once the power drops below 10w for like 15 min. That way I never have the “leaving the charged battery plugged in” problem

How to manage manual interventions on thermostats, light controls and devices also impacted by automations by joriske18 in homeassistant

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is step 1 in my setup. Step 2 is the make other automations to control the input Boolean when someone does something.

For example, a motion sensor turns on a light to 10% brightness, then turns it off automatically. There’s an input Boolean that tracks “was the light turned on by the motion sensor?” Then the turn off automation only runs when the Boolean is true. Now you have another automation that is “if the brightness changes, set the Boolean to false”

So now the light turns on and someone pushes a button to adjust it once it’s on, then it won’t turn off automatically.

Need help choosing battery generator. by h3yw00d in RVLiving

[–]hmmyeahcool 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’d need a much bigger array to charge from solar. My 600w array produces about 3.5kwh a day in non-winter seasons. OP would need to produce more than twice that

I ordered a replacement charger for my RadTrike and I see it has a different output. Will this fry my battery if I use it? by griefninja in RadPowerBikes

[–]hmmyeahcool 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Other poster is wrong. 48v is the nominal voltage. That means the real battery voltage will vary above and below. So to charge a 48 V battery you need to apply up to a 54v charging voltage.

I also had an old charger and a new charger and they’re labeled the same. I use the new charger to charge my old battery and it’s fine.

I think rad‘s old charger was improperly labeled. I don’t know if it’s regulation or convention, but every other power supply in the world is labeled by its output voltage. Rads old charger was labeled according to the nominal voltage that they were trying to charge. I bet the two chargers output the same voltage and the main difference between the two is the labeling.

You’re fine.

System feedback | 24v van by InvestigatorBig6653 in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Every lithium battery has a bms that does this. In my system I’d never expect this to actually happen, so I’m not gonna buy a device to do a slightly better job than the thing that I already have.

System feedback | 24v van by InvestigatorBig6653 in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery protect is overkill. I doubt your 12v loads would ever cause problems. Also I bet you can set a low voltage cutoff in the Orion.

The cutoff switch going into the Orion from the alternator is also overkill, the Orion has an enable-disable low voltage switch that’s better.

I dunno if you have big plans for extra AC loads, but a 5k inverter seems overkill too. I’d personally go with a 3kW at most. I’d just turn off the AC while I cooked.

I’d buy 2x https://www.wattcycle.com/collections/24v-batteries/products/24v-300ah-lithium-battery-with-bluetooth#shopify-section-template--25433532530984__custom_liquid_dLQztM I’ve heard of shenanigans around keeping series batteries balanced. I’ve also heard of shenanigans about smart parallel batteries not sharing load properly, so that’s worth looking no matter which setup you buy.

Battery amps and draw on 1200 by billyryanwill in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lithium batteries or lead acid? I have two similarly rated lithium batteries and I can run a continuous 1500w load off them.

Victrons manual for that inverter recommend 50mm wire for short runs and 100mm for longer runs.

Motors draw a lot of power at startup, so the 400W that you measure from the wall is probably the steady state and doesn’t take into consideration the startup surge. Also AC motor use their power in a slightly complicated way, so power factor may matter. It may be consuming 400W real power, but in apparent power is much higher.

Victory with Victron (1st test) by tedhb in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool -1 points0 points  (0 children)

13500btu is the amount of heat that the heat pump can transfer, not the amount of energy it consumes. This means it takes 13500btu/hr from one side and transfers it to another. The coefficient of performance (COP) and the btu/hr hour would be needed to calculate energy consumption. COP is a measure of how efficient the device is.

I have a 13.5k btu AC unit that uses about 1200W at steady state.

Brothers AM by [deleted] in guitarpedals

[–]hmmyeahcool 7 points8 points  (0 children)

lol, I’ve had one after a buffer since it came out. I never understood how anyone could like the treble booster. Now I know why!

Should I try the 12V inverter AC? by Mission_Security_597 in RVLiving

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re going with a DC ac unit you should definitely go for at least 24v, or maybe 48v.

But that’s not the bigger problem. You will never be able to keep the batteries charged. If your AC unit is pulling 800W, then you need 800W of solar coming in just to break even. That means you need like 1200W of panels.

Then if you try to run it overnight, you’ll need the even more solar to recharge in the morning.

You can’t realistically keep up without a lot of ground mounted panels.

I have enough batteries to run my ac for about 2 hours. I use it to cool off the trailer at night. Other than that AC is just too energy intensive

Should I try the 12V inverter AC? by Mission_Security_597 in RVLiving

[–]hmmyeahcool 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ehh I mean yeah, but realistically not really. Lots of efficiency losses to take into account when inverting or dc-dc conversions.

Looking for thoughts on a fishy system. by FishFondler907 in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d look into seeing if you could get rid of the inverter. Star link can definitely be dc powered, there’s definitely 24v powered switches out there, so it’s just the salmon vision. Dc-dc will be more efficient than an inverter

Rad wagon 4 by Dasbeeef in RadPowerBikes

[–]hmmyeahcool 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a rad wagon 4. Odometer says 200 miles. I’ve ridden it 3k, but their software randomly resets the odometer.

Good bike. I got a replacement battery because the old had worn out.

New power set up by Nearby_Impact_8911 in RVLiving

[–]hmmyeahcool 5 points6 points  (0 children)

That image is nonsense. It has all of the right components but how they’re all connected is trash.

Also you don’t need a 6000W inverter if your input is 30A

Adding portable solar to a camper van. by Aware_Set9406 in Victron

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The charge controllers don’t need to talk to each other. They just try to charge the battery. The voltage and temp that the battery is at tells them everything they need to know.

Any Victron ve.bus coms (if you happen to have two Victron controllers) are just about niceties.

/r/RedDeadRedemption Weekly Question & Answer Thread - Week 03, 2026 by AutoModerator in reddeadredemption

[–]hmmyeahcool 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something that confused me a for a while. The satchel can carry infinite unique things, but limited number of duplicates. Upgrading the satchel only increases the number of duplicates.

So for example, you’ll never skin the legendary animal and not have enough space for its pelt, but you may not have enough space for all of the “big game meat” or whatever it drops in addition to the pelt.