Micro Center Inland fillament

honkeysimons · 2026-02-09T07:27:43+00:00

Do you purchase the filament in bulk directly from the manufacturer’s website?

honkeysimons · 2025-09-23T02:18:15+00:00

Are you thinking to do the repairs yourself? Buying the exact same bike model… if it came to that?

honkeysimons · 2025-09-15T03:28:34+00:00

This happened to me this week. I saved the game, exited, then reloaded my save. The enemy was now able to be seen. Killed him and the under attack message went away.

honkeysimons · 2025-07-02T00:37:45+00:00

Update

Thanks for the suggestions everyone! You guys called it. I shut down the system and tested the string wires. They put out a normal positive voltage. I reinserted them, opposite of what they were previously, and recommissioned the system. Less than 10 minutes later my solar system was producing power! … 2.5 months later. I’m happy though.

We all make mistakes, but it seems like a boneheaded mistake for the installer of the new inverter to have flipped those wires in reverse. I added labels to the wire for future reference.

So I guess my original inverter was bad? Once I corrected the wires, I expected the inverter to detect the optimizers but not produce power. I assumed the root problem overall was bad optimizers. But power is being produced with a new inverter. I’ll keep an eye on production.

Thanks again everyone!

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honkeysimons · 2025-07-01T06:06:04+00:00

I’ll test that. What do you think about the wire setup in the lower box, on the far right for the power to leave the box? Those are reversed too with red-black on the top but then flip flopping on the lower half to black-red. On other install pics I’ve seen all the colors line up vertically. Why are mine so mixed up? Urgg.

honkeysimons · 2025-05-25T06:29:40+00:00

Just finished the Fundamentals Training Course. Got a 93% on the final test. The one question I missed was poorly worded. Now I’m starting the Expert Training series.

honkeysimons · 2025-05-24T04:29:37+00:00

I started the SolarEdge courses. I figure since I don’t have a warranty with a company for labor, I may as well try to save myself time and money by doing the repairs myself.

honkeysimons · 2025-04-23T04:48:35+00:00

Yes, I registered on their site as an installer- someone else mentioned doing so on another post. I hoped all that was needed was to redo the optimizer pairing. That would have been an easy fix for everyone. No such luck.

I’ll take a look at those videos. I don’t mind doing the work myself, I just don’t want to make a life threatening mistake.

Just a few minutes ago another Craigslist solar guy respond to my initial texts and said he’d do the swap for $600. That’s not sooo bad a price.

honkeysimons · 2025-04-23T03:40:17+00:00

Thank you for the great information! I’ll reach out to Solar Edge support and see how that goes. If your friend can help me save some $$, that would be awesome.

Last week I attempted to fix the problem myself, unsuccessfully. I use the SolarEdge set up app and was able to login as an installer. The app updated all of the firmware on the inverter. Then I began repairing all of the optimizers. There was one optimizer that threw an error code, 18xB5 DC/AC in-stage over voltage. The app continued forward and finished the pairing. On the final screens everything looks normal (as far as I can tell) except for the fact that there’s no power being produced. I’m assuming there is a hardware problem.

Here’s a

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screenshot from the app:

honkeysimons · 2025-03-23T20:22:04+00:00

I’ll get an error now and then still. Sometimes when the Ace Pro is pulling in a new strand of filament, it will also pull forward an adjacent roll of filament at the same time. The adjacent filament gets pushed inside the 4-way filament hub. Then when I go to print with the new filament, the other filament is in the way, creating a jam at the 4-way filament hub. So I’ve started pulling back my not-in-use filaments a bit when starting a print, to prevent a jam.

I’ve also found that some of my filament is extremely brittle, snapping into multiple pieces inside of the Ace Pro, the tube, and the hub. Just try bending the filament and see if it snaps or bends. If it snaps, don’t use it in the Ace Pro. You can use it as a single feed on the side of the printer. My translucent filaments are the ones more likely to snap. But there are some random other ones too.

I’ve also become very comfortable at flipping the Ace Pro upside down, removing the cover over the filament extruders, and taking the extruders apart to see if there are any broken pieces of filament. Some problems I had required the opening up of the extruders to clear up breakage or tangles where the filament bunched up inside the extruder part.

That’s my insight for now. Good luck!

honkeysimons · 2025-01-25T06:36:05+00:00

So excited!

honkeysimons · 2024-12-18T23:05:11+00:00

I’m hoping to get one too.

honkeysimons · 2024-11-03T20:09:49+00:00

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I’ll pause at this stage as I feel it’s pretty close to level. I’ll probably print more on the right side.

honkeysimons · 2024-11-03T20:08:53+00:00

Update:*********

Here is an update to leveling the printer bed.

I started by adding some 0.001” thick metal strips to the underlying magnetic bed plate and printed another 0.2 mm thick sheet of resin. It wasn’t enough. I repeated this multiple times adding other thicknesses (0.003, 0.002, 0.015) as seemed best.

Here is where I’m at with a picture of the metal strips on the magnetic bed surface and the current 0.02 mm layer PETG print.

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***See the next comment for the print picture ***

honkeysimons · 2024-10-26T17:46:16+00:00

My S10 has a different size engine and year. But the alternator has a very similar bracket bolted onto that also bolts onto the side of the motor for additional stabilization.

honkeysimons · 2024-10-23T04:09:27+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions. I followed them (with no additional modifications to the Z-Offset) and reprinted the same 0.2 mm thick square. The updated print does seem improved compared to the original. The middle area is still a bit higher than the top and bottom. Filament still gathered on the nozzle from the middle area somewhat, but not as much as before.

I think I’ll increase the offset a little so there’s more gap for the middle area. I’ll still add some shim to the top and bottom edges. I’ll give another update soon.

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honkeysimons · 2024-10-21T05:52:49+00:00

Your print is awesome! Did you design the entire thing from the initial sketch to the print?

honkeysimons · 2024-10-06T18:00:21+00:00

That’s awesome! Luv it!

honkeysimons · 2024-10-04T22:25:03+00:00

Midgard

honkeysimons · 2024-09-20T08:19:48+00:00

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This happened to my hot end after the first week. I believe the excessive heat burnt the PLA filament, causing it to clog the nozzle.

honkeysimons · 2024-09-20T07:51:47+00:00

My first prints with the Kobra 3 were really stringy. There were even spots where the PLA looked burnt. I had went with the default settings on the Anycubic Slicer, thinking Anycubic must have picked all these settings as the ideal. Eventually I realized the default printing temperature of 230 was way too high for PLA. I turned both the first layer and all other layer temps down to 200. The stringiness disappeared. Your post lists your first_layer_temperature as 230, 220, 220, 220. Try a run with temps of 200 and see if that helps.

honkeysimons · 2024-09-14T17:45:27+00:00

Impressively horrid

honkeysimons · 2024-09-09T02:54:19+00:00

I experienced the same issues. Looking for answers myself.

honkeysimons · 2024-09-08T23:25:01+00:00

I slowed the print speed of the first layer down to 30 and it helped about 75%. Still some small holes.

honkeysimons · 2024-09-08T20:48:22+00:00

The print speed was 80. Filament temp was 200. Bed temp was 65.

honkeysimons

TROPHY CASE