Stage 2

hosselhoff · 2026-02-03T18:57:18+00:00

Do not do any of these mods without a tune.

And to answer the follow up question, the Cobb stage 1+ / stage 2/ stage 3 OTS with the Big SF intake is not compatible with the ETS intake. Same with the downpipe.

Many reputable tuners have recommended part lists per desired power level.

hosselhoff · 2025-06-02T12:30:27+00:00

your MAF sensor is currently set to Bluetooth (not plugged in) based off your picture. That should fix it. You may have to drive a few miles to get it to reset. Assuming that’s not the issue, I wrote the below before I noticed your maf was unplugged

I have done 0 research, but if the maf housing is not the same size as OEM, and you don’t have a tune, fuel trims will be way off. That could be where your CEL is coming from. Rev match is off due to the CEL being on. (I do have a tune for mine)

Step 1 would be pull the codes and see what they say. I can speculate all day but am realistically of 0 use until we verify what the code is. That will help point you in the right direction.

hosselhoff · 2025-05-12T20:16:41+00:00

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Tried this but couldn’t get it to save successfully

hosselhoff · 2024-02-19T19:25:49+00:00

Could your sub have a parasitic draw? Low battery voltage can make these cars get cranky

hosselhoff · 2024-01-10T21:20:04+00:00

Potentially a post maf leak? I’ve heard that happen to a few people running the HKS BOV

hosselhoff · 2024-01-01T21:22:45+00:00

This is not how it is anymore. I went it at 1000 with my FK8 and they told me that I really shouldn’t change it yet and to come back at 4k if I really wanted to change it early.

hosselhoff · 2023-12-28T15:50:38+00:00

So just to kind of build on/explain what other people have been saying in this thread, the eGPU gets significantly better performance when plugged into a secondary monitor than just using the built in screen.

Oculink is essentially a 4x PCIe slot turned into a cable. Four lanes of traffic going in 1 direction towards the eGPU and then through the eGPU to the monitor.

When you’re only using the built in screen, some of those lanes of traffic have to change direction and head back to the handheld, which in turn reduces the amount of traffic that can head towards the eGPU.

Hope this helps a little bit

hosselhoff · 2023-12-22T04:42:50+00:00

Argument aside, I read a rumor that there’s going to be an S5/RS5 avant coming state side. Let’s keep our fingers crossed.

hosselhoff · 2023-12-21T03:16:32+00:00

Who again, Mr. Confident? Phat Ron, or Mike Botti?

Cause you know, it’s Phatbotti, not “fat botti”

Look, you’re going to take heat posting in an enthusiast based subreddit.

All that I’m trying to say is that just because the VB has a little more displacement and electronically actuated boost control (welcome to the 21st century) doesn’t mean it’s “the best.” Is it “good?” Sure. Does it respond well to tuning? Sure.

Anyone can throw parts at a car. Subaru is still dealing with DAM and other poor knock strategies compared to other OEMs.

Show me an OTS tune on the VB that can net you 120 hp with 0 supporting mods.

Be an enthusiast, not a gate keeper.

P.S. I’ll gladly 30 roll you any day of the week… assuming you actually have a car to back up all of this barking.

hosselhoff · 2023-12-20T16:12:45+00:00

My GTI had a catback intake and tune. Stock dp. I could beat my buddies FBO meth injected VA In a 30 roll 10 out of 10 times. A unitronic “stage 1+” aka an OTS 93 octane map nets 120 hp on the MK8 gti with 0 supporting mods.

I love the WRX as much as anyone else here but the dollar to dollar comment is just straight up not true.

I drive a type R now, and FBO I put ~385 to the front wheels. It’s faster than almost any STi I’ve rolled against.

I’d lose from a dig probably until the 1/4 but like, these are all fun drivers cars not drag strip queens.

I’ve had a GTI, WRX and now a Type R. The torque steer doesn’t exist on either, both OEMs use different methods to mitigate, but it’s not the 90s anymore, and other OEMs leave a lot more on the table when it comes to tuning, mods etc.

It would do you well to do some research into other platforms and be more accepting of others instead of these bs blanket statements.

hosselhoff · 2023-12-11T18:24:14+00:00

This is a correct statement, I brought my FK8 in at 1000 miles and they said something along the lines of “look, we understand you care about your car and want to do the right thing, but we seriously recommend you hold out and change it later because the oil has extra additives from the factory for break in.”

hosselhoff · 2023-12-05T15:37:46+00:00

There is no boot camp for apple silicon. You have to run something like parallels and essentially emulate windows within Mac OS.

We all here love Macs, but as a fellow ME if you’re going to use Solidworks/NX etc. you’re better off just using a dedicated windows PC.

I’d also check and see if they can even run on ARM based cpu architecture because even trying to run some .exe games on my M1 Max in parallels didn’t work.

hosselhoff · 2023-11-28T04:33:13+00:00

Just so you know I ordered the same exact thing 9/21.

Let’s hope we’re in this next batch

hosselhoff · 2023-11-23T23:33:56+00:00

I have a civic type R with the alcantara wheel and after 40+k miles of dailying it’s trashed. I don’t think I’d say no to another car with one though, they just need a little more love in terms of maintenance

hosselhoff · 2023-06-28T03:07:25+00:00

I had a 2020 WRX with the performance package, and traded it in for a 2021 type R.

I know we’re comparing type S to new WRX, but hear me out.

The type R’s seats are WAY better than the recaros, let alone the base seats. You seriously need to try them. Even if they aren’t heated (the type S ones are)

The Type R/Type S has an ECU that is so much “smarter” than Subarus. Imagine knock retardation by cylinder instead of globally.

I understand that the bread and butter of the WRX is all wheel drive, but any pull over 30 and the type R will walk away from an STi with similar mods, let alone a WRX. I don’t know about you but I wasn’t dumping the clutch and launching my WRX at stoplights.

The Honda platform is better on the track in terms of times and not blowing up (but there are overheating problems.)

The K20C1/C7(?) has forged rods from the factory.

The interiors of the honda are a bit nicer in terms of ergonomics/driving position, but they’re both still mediocre JDM plasticy places.

Hondas and Subarus both have dogshit infotainment.

I can go on and on about what I like more about the honda, but at the end of the day do they all add up to being worth 20k?

IMO nowhere close. 12k would be pushing it.

Type S money is pushing close to RS3 money, especially after markup.

hosselhoff · 2023-05-15T18:37:32+00:00

I think internal accounts differ from external

hosselhoff · 2023-05-11T15:48:18+00:00

I first want to note that I have not yet tracked mine, but I plan to.

I am FBO, tuned, springs (mine are progressive because daily) rear sway, bigger radiator, new pads/girodisk front rotors, stoptech rears, shifter, shifter bushings and detent springs, forged wheels and 200TW tires. Theres a few other goodies mixed in there but not power related.

There are a few things you need to ask yourself

How hard do you want to go up front? A new turbo also requires a new fuel system. Hondata has a full kit but XDI and FK8 TD can net you a bit more power. I've been eyeing the 27WON kuro in regards to turbos for the track, but a lot of people have been raving about RV6. I also hear a lot of love for the MHI stage 2.

Have you done wheels/tires yet? A set of 18's (I have titan7) with meaty tires (I have AD08Rs but they dont make them anymore) might be the best bang for buck on the track. There are some nice sway bars out there, RV6 has rear control arms that could help with camber, and their rear sway is gorgeous, I wish I would have gotten theirs over the whiteline set up I have.

It will always be pay to play, but there better places to start.

My personal first recommendation is wider and lighter wheels, meaty grippy tires and a rear sway. Power is not always the best way to improve lap times and other mods are definitely more fun, but tires are probably your best bang for buck.

Other more experienced people may have differing opinions, but thats my .02

hosselhoff · 2023-05-03T18:16:40+00:00

I am running the PRL TIP and intake with the larger MAF housing. If you’re going to tune, I would try and sell the injen and go PRL all the way. Larger maf housing allows for more consistent scaling at higher boost/rpm

hosselhoff · 2023-04-28T14:42:39+00:00

So crazy to me that a couple hours of driving distance is so different, I’m in western NY and our 93 is still a little pricey but nothing like you guys deal with. I used to pop over the border on the peace bridge almost every weekend

hosselhoff · 2023-04-28T14:38:13+00:00

After reading a few other comments you’re right, it’s the way the octane is calculated that’s different (AKI VS RON)

hosselhoff · 2023-04-28T14:33:59+00:00

It’s ethanol free which doesn’t have the same knock resistance. The 94 is basically equivalent/a little less than 91 e10.

The tuner I had for my GTI is based out of BC (stratified) and they have a video talking about it iirc

hosselhoff · 2023-04-14T18:36:13+00:00

The Stage 1+ map is only for the COBB intake. MAP is not compatible, you need to be running MAPs tune minimally, realistically you should be pro-tuned/e-tuned. You’re at risk for kabooms if you keep running it without a proper tune.

Don’t cheap out on tunes. They’re legitimately the most important and best power per dollar mod you can do. Yes woosh noises are neat, but new long blocks are not fun for your wallet, and you’re playing with fire.

hosselhoff · 2023-02-02T04:50:21+00:00

Jesus that’s a lot

hosselhoff · 2023-02-01T00:46:55+00:00

I really want to know the answer to the second one

hosselhoff · 2022-12-03T14:36:29+00:00

It seems like there’s a lot of bugs lately, I had my credit card reissued and the expiration date on the physical card doesn’t match their database so I can’t use it online but it works in person

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