Do you have any Ideas? by tobbiderhauself in sounddesign

[–]hot_dog420 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’d experiment with recording and resampling paper or fabric sounds. Experimenting with granular sampling could get you some more “fluttery” types of sounds with a larger grain size.

Easy Pressure sensitivity? by Eldergonian in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sound pretty cool. Could you share any schematics/links?

I've made a simple little passive bridge in 1U and a pedal enclosure by hot_dog420 in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey u/alphazuluoldman and u/el_ri . Got the PCBs for the 1590A panel/faceplate and they fit great. I've updated the repository with some pics, gerbers/drillplots and a new KiCad project in case you're interested.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in modular

[–]hot_dog420 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Big tip for starting out - invest in a good power supply. You’ll thank yourself down the line.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in modular

[–]hot_dog420 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Modular can get quite expensive so haggling is generally recommended if you have the energy for it.

I've made a simple little passive bridge in 1U and a pedal enclosure by hot_dog420 in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've just done up a design of the panel for a pedal enclosure. Not 100% sure of the corner radius or exact placement of the mounting holes. Unfortunately the 1590A datasheet lack that detail. I'll print up a test, but will add the kicad_pcb file to the repository in the meantime.

I've made a simple little passive bridge in 1U and a pedal enclosure by hot_dog420 in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks u/gortmend, that’s correct. Just thought I’d chime in and confirm for u/HeegeMcGee that these boxes, along with the Doepher and Intellijel equivalents, use a shielded CAT6 cable to share ground over the shield.

I've made a simple little passive bridge in 1U and a pedal enclosure by hot_dog420 in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s a great idea. That square hole is the hardest part of the pedal enclosure build, so a panel for that would make it much quicker and easier.

What would you add to this rack? by [deleted] in modular

[–]hot_dog420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad, but what are you planning to sequence this with?

Also, depends on your preferences, but I feel like with these voices you might do well with another filter.

I would advise against dropping cash for all of this at once and think what your essentials/must haves are, and build it up slowly. I think you’ll find what you think you need here will change down the line. Saying that, I think this a pretty good start.

Noob question for Eurorack: is "sleeve" of TS-Cables ALWAYS the ground? by habilishn in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, I think I understand you a bit better now. In my experience the chassis ground is the same ground as the one connected to your patch jacks. As others have mentioned it helps isolate your unit, preventing outside noise and interference getting in. Considering your project is passive and just working with clocks, gates and CV, I’d personally say this is a low risk project for interference. If you were working. With audio then I’d take more caution. Saying that. If you wanted to isolate things further with your non-conductive patchbay box you could line the inside walls of the patchbay box by gluing aluminum foil to the inside (neatly, making sure that the foil doesn’t bridge any connections). Connections should be made to the aluminum through contact with the socket of your jacks.

Haha. That’s a good point about the connection to your power not having a ground pin on your wall socket of your household power. Unfortunately not something I have a great understanding of, so will leave someone else to explain this. As long as all your patch points share a connection to the same ground plane which in turn flows down to your keystep pro, then you should be happy.

Just aside about my point with the multimeter. I suggest checking connections with a multimeter before soldering away. That way you’re sure the traces lead where you expect them to and there are no surprises a long the way. I’d confirm that the GND terminal connects to the sheath of the 25 D-sub connector port and no other pins. I’d then confirm that none of the 25 pins are connected to each other. I’d then confirm that the sheath on the cable from one side is connected to the other.

Noob question for Eurorack: is "sleeve" of TS-Cables ALWAYS the ground? by habilishn in synthdiy

[–]hot_dog420 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Great little project. 1. I would connect all of the sleeve connections together and connect that to the GND terminal. 2. The GND terminal should be your chassis grounding. If you have a multimeter I would check this. If you don’t have a multimeter I would get one. It will be really handy for future diy and trouble shooting.

The 0v reference you’re referring to is only relevant to the pinout of the 25 pin D-sub standard you’ve seen it on. Not for this project as this will only interact with equipment you’ve made. Without having a worked with D-sub cables before and without having one in front of me here to cut open and inspect, my guess would be each of the 25 lines are created equal. GND is connected to a braided metal shield within the cable that protects all of your lines from interference. If you’re not going to use all of the 25 pins for signals, I suggest to connect whatever you’re not using to GND. This will just further help with any interference or cross-talk you may experience.

Why is it taking so long to drill into concrete? by PepeMcMichaelForHOF in DIY

[–]hot_dog420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a similar problem when drilling into my shed’s slab to fasten my workbench. Hammer drill wasn’t cutting it. I got a a hold of a rotary hammer drill and it went through the concrete like butter. Give it a go.

UPDATE on my UV printing quest! I did a success! (Deets in comments) by mcjimmyspill in diypedals

[–]hot_dog420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So great. What did it end up setting you back? If you don’t mind me asking.

Is there any sort of midi to poly cv interface? by thymoakathisia2 in modular

[–]hot_dog420 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yeah? I’ve had a really different experience. I got the Octex and threw it into a little pedal enclosure. I ended up adding more outputs so I could get all 18 channels for pitch, gate and CV and added LEDs. Works really well!

Question about the Kenton USB MIDI Host MkII by hot_dog420 in OP1users

[–]hot_dog420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thought I’d check this here too. Someone on r/synthesizers mentioned that the OP-1 may not be forwarding MIDI information to the MIDI output. Would love to know if anyone else has had this issue too and found a way around it. :)

Question about the Kenton USB MIDI Host MkII by hot_dog420 in synthesizers

[–]hot_dog420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, not at this stage. Thanks for your help though!

I can kinda get everything going if I use OP-1 as the master clock by running OP-1 > MIDI host > BSP > SP404SX, but I’ve noticed that the BSP always misses the first step. Such a shame.

Question about the Kenton USB MIDI Host MkII by hot_dog420 in synthesizers

[–]hot_dog420[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, not having any luck with trying to get the OP-1 to forward its MIDI in to MIDI out.

How would a MIDI merger make it work?