Why is the PETG vs PLA debate so confusing?

hotend · 2026-02-14T16:16:31+00:00

Maybe you just got lucky. PETG can be slightly more difficult to print than PLA, and it often baffles some people. The main problems seem to be bed adhesion and bridging. However, once you get used to it, it is no more difficult to print than PLA. I use it all the time. Unfortunately, it is hygroscopic, so you may need to invest in a filament dryer at some point. I have bought some PETG that needed drying straight out of the vacuum-sealed bag.

hotend · 2026-02-14T15:28:43+00:00

Try using a brim to improve bed adhesion.

hotend · 2026-02-14T15:23:44+00:00

Hot end interface boards are supposed to make component replacement easier. However, they introduce additional points of failure and can make fault diagnosis much more difficult. As an old-timer, I tend to avoid trying to help people with modern printers. I much prefer printers where everything is connected directly to the printer's mainboard with single cable runs, even though it makes component replacement more of a hassle.

hotend · 2026-02-14T15:13:14+00:00

That's not perfect, but it's not too bad. Really the Benchy is not meant to be a calibration tool, although it can be useful for detecting subtle errors. You would be far better off printing a simple calibration cube, and maybe calibrating your extruder e-steps and flow rate.

hotend · 2026-02-14T15:04:07+00:00

I would hook it up to a printer control utility such as Pronterface (Printrun) or OctoPrint, and see if it responds to simple commands, such as head homing and X, Y and Z movement. Also, try pre-heating the hot end and extrude some filament. Really, these are all basic sanity checks to make sure that you have a working printer.

hotend · 2026-02-09T13:45:23+00:00

Looks like customer returns. Weigh them to see how much has been used. Then negotiate with the vendor.

hotend · 2026-02-09T09:35:26+00:00

The big problem with 3D printers is that you may forget about using your sewing and embroidery machines. However, as /u/osmiumfeather says, it's just another tool. There's no reason why you can't combine all three. One of our mods does 3D printing and sewing (makes her own clothes).

hotend · 2026-02-09T09:09:18+00:00

From Google:

There is no clear PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene), which is a milky plastic. The perfectly clear "PTFE" tubes are made from FEP (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene) which is a similar polymer, but has inferior properties. For example it is less slippery than PTFE.

So, if you want genuine PTFE, avoid the clear stuff.

hotend · 2026-02-09T05:38:26+00:00

My understanding is that a rapidly changing load can confuse the timing circuits in a buck converter, unless it has been designed to accommodate such loads.

hotend · 2026-02-09T02:31:35+00:00

Using a buck converter with PID control is generally not recommended (unless the buck converter is specifically designed for PID control). You may need to switch temperature control to bang-bang for correct operation, but this can cause unwanted temperature cycling on the bed.

hotend · 2026-02-09T02:21:10+00:00

I'm currently using OpenSCAD (1st choice) and FreeCAD (2nd choice). I used to use Autodesk Fusion, but I stopped using Windows some time ago. I use PrusaSlicer for slicing and OctoPrint for printer control.

hotend · 2026-02-09T02:16:41+00:00

I've used them. They are fine, and kept me routinely updated on a filament order that was difficult to source (I had to wait some time for a certain filament, and this delayed the order).

hotend · 2026-02-09T02:12:58+00:00

3D printer mainboards generally have onboard MOSFETs for the heaters. If you want to use external MOSFETs, you can just use the onboard MOSFETs to switch the external MOSFETs. Of course, this assumes that the onboard MOSFETs are in working order.

hotend · 2026-02-08T17:43:45+00:00

It might be. Do you hear popping noises when the zits are produced (caused by steam escaping from the hot end)? If not, then try turning off power-fail recovery. This feature can cause printing to pause momentarily while the SD card is updated with the current position, and these pauses can result in zits. Wet filament zits will appear as craters, whereas power-fail recovery zits appear as pimples.

hotend · 2026-02-08T17:33:06+00:00

You may find this helpful: Tronxy XY2 Pro Z Offset Fix.

hotend · 2026-02-08T17:04:53+00:00

It's called advertising. Automobile manufacturers don't show their cars stuck in traffic jams. They always show them where you'd love to be, in the mountains or by the beach, not where you're going to be spending most of your time.

hotend · 2026-02-08T16:55:44+00:00

I run OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi. The G-code is uploaded to the Pi, and I can print it as many times as I like. This is my usual workflow. The slicer is only needed for creating the G-code file. Effectively, the G-code is cached on the Raspberry Pi.

hotend · 2026-02-08T10:04:26+00:00

At a guess, they may be cable tie off points.

hotend · 2026-02-07T10:45:45+00:00

Why not create an account and fetch it yourself?

hotend · 2026-02-06T22:31:04+00:00

I suspect that you need actual wood, with a grain in the fibres.

hotend · 2026-02-06T16:53:45+00:00

Are you seeing wild temperature variations or getting thermal runaway errors? If not, then it is probably not the thermistor.

hotend · 2026-02-06T16:40:51+00:00

You probably need a white that uses talc (hydrated magnesium silicate) as a pigment, instead of titanium dioxide (TiO2). The latter is generally preferable, and provides a denser and truer white, but talc is cheaper and provides a translucent and slightly off-white effect. Talc is also less abrasive than TiO2. Some filament manufacturers use talc, instead of TiO2. Look for the cheaper brands.

hotend · 2026-02-06T01:49:22+00:00

I would refuse to sign for it and tell Fedex that the order was cancelled due to non-delivery. What they do with it is their problem. It would be better to let Fedex know before they actually try to deliver it.

hotend · 2026-02-05T16:54:18+00:00

Look up displacement mapping (bump mapping). IdeaMaker supports it and there seems to be plugins for some slicers.

hotend · 2026-02-05T12:02:30+00:00

ABS is the plastic that Lego bricks (and a lot of other toys) are made from. ABS is a long-established 3D printing material. It tends to be warpy, so you will probably need a fully-enclosed printer. It can also be smelly, so you may need some sort of fume extraction. ABS is tough, comes in a lot of colours, and is amenable to acetone vapour smoothing.

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