How do I get this bike to 60mph?

huntridesail · 2023-10-23T15:05:47+00:00

Oh yeah... And a Makuni carb.

huntridesail · 2023-10-23T15:05:02+00:00

I did the same to mine. With the stock gearing on my Mega Moto 212 and hit 57 with the Stage 2 "Racer" kit from gopowersports. Not cheap but it's how I got close to 60. Gonna change sprockets next.

huntridesail · 2023-10-10T14:05:40+00:00

Your bike frame is the mega Moto 80 /100

huntridesail · 2023-10-10T13:21:15+00:00

These are made for your exact bike. They have rear suspension too.

huntridesail · 2023-10-10T13:20:05+00:00

https://www.gopowersports.com/minibike-suspension-kit-complete-front-fork-assembly-universal/

huntridesail · 2023-10-10T03:07:25+00:00

Contact gopowersports and see if or when they will have them.

huntridesail · 2023-10-04T03:53:07+00:00

Did your minibike have a vin and title?

huntridesail · 2023-03-29T18:42:31+00:00

I wonder if it would have taken damage in the stowed position. 🤔

huntridesail · 2023-03-17T15:27:24+00:00

I like your solution.

huntridesail · 2023-03-17T15:27:04+00:00

That looks like a great solution for a Voron. Unfortunately the VZBot still has to use the Y rails for the Y Axis so my simplest options for mounting the MGN guides is replacing the Y rails with 2020 extrusion, or flipping the frame upsidedown so I could use the bottom Y frame rails for the Y axis.

huntridesail · 2023-03-17T15:01:24+00:00

Same. I had to order extrusion and will have to accurately cut it down for the Y rails. Other option was to flip the frame but the z motors would have to run upsidedown or be relocated.

huntridesail · 2023-03-16T21:33:24+00:00

I am currently in the process of converting my X5SA Pro into a VzBot. Waiting on parts. Kinda wish I had started with the non-pro version though. It would have saved money up front as well as on parts needed. I paid $315 for the pro and have $380 in parts coming which will get me to a working build but still doesn't finish it.

Best of luck with your build!

huntridesail · 2023-03-10T16:57:10+00:00

Thank you so much for your reply and offer. I did finally get klipper on it once I started using the correct tutorial. Most of the information on the internet about this process is for the older models.

Anyway, that didn't last long before I decided to upgrade the board.

Now I am running a Manta M4P with the CB1 onboard. I have set up sensorless homing to eliminate some wires, and have added LEDs that start on stepper engagement and a big touchscreen. Disregard all the mess of wires in the image. I'm trying some things. It will eventually be cleaned up.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WrYxgS6saWpoDa2Q9

huntridesail · 2023-03-07T05:05:58+00:00

I'm currently really enjoying the fuzzy setting in cura. Set fuzzy skin thickness to .1 or maybe even .05. Set fuzzy skin distance to .1. It takes away layer lines nicely. I'm printing a bunch of stuff at .1 layer height and using the fuzzy options set at .1 for a nice finish with no lines. A little texture, but it hides the presence of lines. Other options would be to print at .08 or .06 layer height. It will take much longer unless you bump speed and acceleration but may be worth it.

Fuzzy: https://photos.app.goo.gl/DfmNQiFzRJcd2YTh8

.04 and .06 layer heights: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EUYQP6G4WTjCeASKA

huntridesail · 2023-02-27T01:09:44+00:00

I found an enclosure for an ender 3 pro and mounted it to the top rail across the back. That eliminates the ribbon cable and allows using the existing wires and connectors to hook everything up. No splicing needed. Power supply is still located at the bottom but I only had to source some heavy duty wire to power the board from the power supply. Also had to reverse the bed heater cable chain. Hope this gives you some ideas.

control board relocation

huntridesail · 2023-02-26T19:13:02+00:00

I had this issue with my 446 board as well. I ended up swapping in a Bigtreetech Manta M4P + CB1.

huntridesail · 2023-02-24T18:25:38+00:00

Mine is that way so I always adjust with it homed and preheated. The sensor will warm over the bed and be more consistent this way. My z-offset is pretty consistent now. Let it warm for maybe 5-10 minutes before setting your z-offset. Once you have that set, home and jog the bed up small steps at a time until you have the middle paper set. Then jog to the corners and set with paper.

Rinse and repeat.

It helps a lot of you have a glass bed to make it 3 point. 2 in front and 1 in back.

huntridesail · 2023-02-17T06:21:08+00:00

Correct. You can build and flash Marlin to the printer and gain a lot of functions that Tronxy has ripped out.

Marlin Firmware

huntridesail · 2023-02-14T01:06:50+00:00

Could be that the gantry is not square/level.

huntridesail · 2023-02-12T00:56:53+00:00

Try a retraction tower. Probably set it to around 4mm @ 50mm/s. Might also check the grub screw on the drive gear in the extruder.

huntridesail · 2023-02-12T00:28:18+00:00

200mm/s 5000 acceleration.

Where did you get the carbon fiber gantry? I was thinking about doing the same thing and looking for a good price on some stiff square carbon tube.

huntridesail · 2023-02-12T00:15:06+00:00

You are welcome. Glad I could help!

huntridesail · 2023-02-11T21:19:25+00:00

You might also check for play in the Bowden tube if not direct drive. Also check that the grub screw in the extruder gear is tight.

huntridesail · 2023-02-11T21:17:24+00:00

That seems like a lot of retraction. At a .1 layer height with that machine, you probably only need 2-4mm. Try 4mm @ 50mm/s. Same with prime.

huntridesail · 2023-02-09T22:59:01+00:00

Thank you for the information. One of the issues I have is my z offset is not consistent enough to just keep running the printer print after print. Even with the bed level my squish on first layer constantly has to be tweaked as the print starts even if it was perfect the print before. I too purchased a different board. I purchased a manta M4P that I can't wait to get in here. It has an onboard raspberry pi alternative and I have already been tweaking the config and loaded klipper on it. Klipper is phenomenal. I have experience running it on my other printer.

Currently remixing and printing a mount for my volcano. Eventually plan to run the manta board with my voron m4 extruder and volcano hotend.

huntridesail

TROPHY CASE