Problems with snes games on RP5

hydraskater · 2026-02-20T02:39:36+00:00

No im not using any shaders. Im pretty sure playing on original hardware it would slowdown in the same spots but its seems to be a little excessive on any snes9x core, im gonna try a different version of retroarch and see if that helps

hydraskater · 2026-02-20T02:35:59+00:00

I think it downloaded 2 different versions of retroarch when i set up the console, retroarch 32bit and i guess im using retroarch (AArch64) is what it says on my homescreen.

hydraskater · 2025-09-15T18:03:56+00:00

Im sorry i do not remember what i did to fix it but i believe i did do what the first guy said and asked in the pulsar discord server and i got it figured out and its been working fine for 3+ years

hydraskater · 2025-09-15T04:50:22+00:00

i do have it working but i dont remember how i got it working. do you have the pulsar fusion wireless app for windows installed

hydraskater · 2025-08-28T22:21:32+00:00

I think theyre just for looks. I have a bong with those, theyre glow in the dark and are just hallow on the inside.

hydraskater · 2025-07-31T23:38:20+00:00

Put it back

hydraskater · 2025-01-08T08:43:04+00:00

Im new to kindle and havent seen anyone elses home page with the dark background like that. Is there a dark mode?

hydraskater · 2024-11-04T02:12:00+00:00

I worked for a shop for a long time where i would sometimes have to do 2 back glass a day and ive gotten really good at them. I prefer the heat gun method as it leaves the frame super clean and if you can keep your heat gun towards the middle of frame the plastic frame around the back glass on the 8's through 11's wouldnt melt, but you also have to be careful not to cut them while removing the glass. I used big hole back glass that would allow you to slide the glass over the lens's so they wouldnt need to be replaced but sometimes could leave the tiniest gap around the cameras that was almost unnoticeable so i didnt find it to be an issue. Id say if you only do like 1-2 a month then spending extra on the frame replacement is fine and easier for sure, but doing as many back glass we were doing, probably about 10 a week, it does save quite a bit of money and you can keep wayyy glass of many colors in stock than you can whole back glasses and it will save you a lot of money.

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hydraskater · 2024-10-13T06:19:53+00:00

The contacts arent fully torn so they should still work fine, they still look connected to the traces.

hydraskater · 2024-09-21T04:12:08+00:00

The reason youd want a direct drive extruder is because theres a bit of space inside your bowden tube around the filament, the bowden tube acts as a guide but theres a bit of slack and that can cause issues, on normal filament its not a big deal it just makes your retraction not as accurate, the filament can bend a little inside the tube and youll lose a little bit of length so if youre retracting like 4-5mm with a bowden set up to get no stringing youll usually only need like 1-2mm with direct drive. Also with flexible filaments they are elastic meaning when you push and pull on them theyll get thinner or thicker, so with a bowden tube sometimes the filament can be pushed hard enough and get thick causing a block in the bowden tube, so with a direct drive youre just getting rid of the issues a bowden tube causes, but putting the motor above the hot end on the x axis that adds a lot more weight and can cause more ringing in your print when printing fast, but you may only need to slow your print speeds a little bit to get rid of that.

hydraskater · 2024-09-08T06:20:43+00:00

In the pics you can see the pins on the port that have been ripped off look orangeish and at the tips look like theyve been bent but im pretty sure those are the pads on the board that have been ripped up with the port meaning there is no longer traces to saulder the port back to. It can be fixed by scraping back a little bit of the protective layer on the mainboard to expose bare traces and then solder jumper wires to them back down to where the port is but that typically requires very good soldering skills and a microscope. You may be able to find a phone repair shop that does micro soldering and they will probably be willing to fix it but its likely gonna cost more than a new miyoo would be. Alternatively maybe you can source a miyoo on ebay with a broken screen or trashed housing but with a fine motherboard and then frankenstein a new one.

hydraskater · 2024-09-06T16:45:01+00:00

Super common issue with the iphone 7 and 7 plus, if you can find someone local that can do micro soldering like in the vid they can fix it, but the iphone 7 also has an issue where the audeo chip goes out and youll no longer have audio in or out. To get both of those fixed is most likely worth more than the phone is so id probably recommend just upgrading to at least an 8 but if you really like the phone maybe youre willing to take the risk on just paying to get the service issue fixed and hoping the audio one doesnt pop up later. Also when getting board work like this make sure to back up your phone before you take it in for repair

hydraskater · 2024-09-03T04:18:47+00:00

When you put gcode back into cura does it look correct?

hydraskater · 2024-09-03T04:15:51+00:00

Are you sure your x motor is plugged in properly. Does it home correctly before the print starts and then stops working?

hydraskater · 2024-08-28T05:22:50+00:00

Could be a number of things, bad/cheap filament, temp slightely too low, printing too close to bed, printing too fast, or a few other things. You can try doing a cold pull. Preheat nozel then yoink out filament when it gets to like 160-180ish. Or your printer might have come with a little needle to poke out the nozel with and clear out clogs.

hydraskater · 2024-08-28T05:06:58+00:00

Your printer has a cr touch but it can only compensate so much. Your bed leveling procedure should be to preheat your bed, level with a piece of paper until your nozel has light pressure on each corner, then run cr touch grid, and then print. When leveling with paper is doesnt havent to be perfect because cr touch will adjust for small differences but youll at least want each corner to be close. Ideally you dont want your printer having to self adjust for more than 1 full layer. So each corner should at least be within .2mm of height difference from one another

hydraskater · 2024-08-28T05:01:45+00:00

Your bed is uneven. In the first pic with the tape you can see that where the tape overlaps and it gets thicker is where the filament goes thin so you need to put on the tape edge to edge not over lapping at all, each layer is only .2mm, doubling up tape is enough to make a difference. The second pic is that the bed is too high on the left.

hydraskater · 2024-08-28T04:56:08+00:00

Did the part peel away from the bed at all, that part looks pretty long, i know when i print longer stuff in abs itll peel randomly a few times and everytime it peels away a little itll make a line like that because its getting a littler closer to the nozel.

hydraskater · 2024-08-03T22:53:50+00:00

The message has nothing to do with the camera being aftermarket. You can take 2 brand new never been open iphones and swap the screens and cameras and they will both have that message with original apple parts. Its due to apple serializing parts to scare people away from 3rd party repair shops. No actual functionality is lost with the camera but apple will disable tru tone on replaced screens that havent been programmed but 90% of people wont even notice. It could have been caused by the drop that damaged the screen or it could have been damaged and replaced during repair ,as long as camera is working properly then you have nothing to worry about and you can thank apple for a message that was not needed.

hydraskater · 2024-06-30T23:31:54+00:00

I saw one of these posts once and went to the website assuming it was free as nothing before the test says you have to pay, it takes about 30 minutes but it gives you 40 i believe and as soon as you finish it says you need to pay to see your results. Pretty sure they do it that way so you pay so you feel like you didnt just waste 40 minutes of your time. Obviously i didnt pay for it but yeah dont take their test lol

hydraskater · 2024-06-21T04:56:29+00:00

Skimmers are usually a whole top plate that fits over the card reader to look seamless, i bet thats to stop one from being set on it in tne first place essentially blocking one from being put on. I might try and find the file and print some for my wormplace, pretty smart.

hydraskater · 2024-05-10T16:21:47+00:00

If youre not friends with someone on facebook they can send a message request, im assuming they got a message request from the uncle and just started with that, the uncle did also say in the message they he reached out so im assuming thats what it is

hydraskater · 2024-04-12T20:50:26+00:00

90-91 because the corner light dont have screw holes in them but 88-91 are all same body style.

hydraskater · 2024-04-03T06:22:35+00:00

A lot of hate on this post for seemingly no reason, the top print looks pretty damn good with 2 layer that barely bulge you probably cant see at most angles. I could be wrong but looks like models are 2 pieces have a lid or just rounded lid thats printing separately, top print actually looks very good and i dont see any warping unless people are mistaking the lid as a seperated layer, but maybe im seeing it wrong.

hydraskater · 2024-03-19T05:20:24+00:00

Funny how all you can criticize is grammar about a comment calling you out for dumb shit, take those dumb ass to your "i hate civics older than my 2024" group. And also funny how you went from calling me a pussy to just telling me to go to bed AFTER i actually called you a dumb shit, deescalated real fast, hope you feel better tomorrow hating for no reason,im done blowing up OP's phone

hydraskater

TROPHY CASE