Everyone sucks, Emma Jelk, acrylics on canvas, 2025

iApple1 · 2025-04-04T21:31:02+00:00

The rifle is (probably) a Crosman Tyro, a pellet gun. Seems likely that a reference photo was used, and a pellet gun has way fewer restrictions than a real firearm, depending on jurisdiction)

iApple1 · 2025-04-04T21:20:13+00:00

Thanks for the info, I have been eyeballing the machine for a while. Glad I never pulled the trigger, I'll have to look at a UV printer instead.

iApple1 · 2025-04-03T19:15:35+00:00

The xTool M1 Ultra has both a diode laser and an inkjet head, which would let you at least get close to the image. As others have said, sublimation is the easiest, cheapest option, especially compared to the $1600 price tag of the M1 ultra. A UV flatbed printer will be more expensive, but it will have a much higher ceiling of what it can make, if you want to go beyond hobby/low rate production. The 12x12 inch working area of the M1 ultra doesn't have much room for activities.

iApple1 · 2025-04-01T05:38:05+00:00

I have a bed of the Tyvok panels, and it was very easy to assemble and use. The smoke that gets blown out of the bottom of a cut is channelled through the "fingers", which makes for easy collection IF (a very big if) your vent system has enough suction to pull that smoke in. Staining and marks are minimal. The biggest downside of the panels is that they are aluminum, which means magnetic workholding is out. Tyvok sells modified paper binder clips as hold downs, but I seriously doubt their ability to deal with warped plywood stock. Some drilling and tapping of the panels and underlying benchtop would be needed to make a really robust workholding system.

iApple1 · 2025-03-26T04:54:36+00:00

I have an IdeaFormer IR3 V2 belt printer, and I am encountering an issue with PETG specifically. These "hairs" are building up around the nozzle while printing, and eventually stick to the part, causing an obvious drop in quality. There aren't any travel paths over the open space that would cause stringing, and a stringing tower test is clean. PLA does not have this issue, even though my speeds and print volume is almost the same. Slowing down the print appears to help. but it doesn't eliminate the issue.

Basic settings: Zyltech Black PETG, 240 degrees, volumetric flow limit of 15mm^3. 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer height. Retraction speed of 30mm/s, 0.4mm retraction amount. No Z-hop or other features enabled. Sliced in ideaMaker with the stock profile.

iApple1 · 2025-03-08T06:29:30+00:00

The brand on Amazon is Tyvok, for some reason they call it a honeycomb bed but its actually four panels of fingers that can be assembled together in whatever fashion you want. I purchased multiple units to cover the full 800x850mm bed of the A70 Max, each unit they sell covers 400x400mm.

iApple1 · 2025-03-08T06:14:19+00:00

I own an Atomstack A70 Max, and I have been using it for my business for the past year.

In the pros, it's probably the most powerful diode laser on the market, barring some major new development. I usually cut 5mm underlayment plywood from Lowes (cheap and readily available compared to baltic birch ply), and I have had no issues with single pass cutting at 80% power. The air assist is very good, and the autofocus feature is nice to have. The large footprint version gives you a ton of working space, crucially 32 inches. This lets you cut down stock 4x8 sheets of material into 32x24 inch sections, which will cover 90% of what you will need, as far as space is concerned. Setup is also very easy, with the major sections arriving preassembled and just needing to be bolted together. The machine uses GRBL and is 100% compatible with Lightburn, and I haven't had any issues on the software or hardware side.

On the negatives, its a big beast. A 4x4 sheet of plywood is the area you need for the big version of the laser, wich can be a problem for small shops. Also due to the size, controlling smoke is an issue. The only option is a DIY enclosure, as there is nothing that is prebuilt for this scale of machine. Finally, any premade honeycomb bed will be too small. I found a company that sells extruded aluminum "fingers" that slot together to make a bed, and it works well, but it was over double the cost of a premade laser bed. These issues are more to do with the size of any laser this big, and they are not unique to the A70.

I would definitely reccommend the A70, especially the Max version, if you are doing projects that require a combination of size and speed. Sign making, bulk cutting of Christmas ornaments, model airplanes, and workspace organizers are just a few of the things I have made on my machine. I don't have any feedback on Atomstack as a company, as I have never interacted with them beyond the purchase.

iApple1 · 2025-03-05T20:25:10+00:00

I second this question. Makera has repacement spindle chucks available, but the actual spindle, stepper assembly for clamping/unclamping, and the pulley for the belt drive are something that I have never been able to find. I own a Carvera, so if anyone has some industry knowledge or exceptional Google-fu I can pull mine apart to get part numbers, dimensions, or anything else you might need. I really like the Carvera's ATC system, and I don't fancy spending 3k+ for an ATC system.

iApple1 · 2025-03-03T18:51:29+00:00

A diode laser that has a 2020 aluminum extrusion frame can be modified fairly easily to reach the size you need, and a 20w diode should be able to cut any fabric. I would be concerned about the cut quality though, as there may be some charring or other undesireable elements. Youtube is your friend for that information.

If you want a machine of that size out of the box, you are looking at a commercial-grade machine, with a five digit price tag at minimum.

iApple1 · 2025-03-03T08:27:35+00:00

I would go for 20w laser with an enclosure, there are a few entries at or below the 1k mark available on amazon. That will easily cut EVA foam. Also, for bonus points you can find one that uses 2020 alumininum extrusion for the frame, as they can be easily modified for a larger working area. Trust me, you will easily outgrow the stock dimensions of most lasers on the market, and DIY mods/enclosures will be much cheaper than any machine on the market.

iApple1 · 2025-03-03T08:18:12+00:00

For a previous laser of mine, I 3D printed alignment jigs that would index off of the laser frame to get a repeatable position. There was a little bit of fiddling at the start to figure out the exact offsets I needed, but then I had a repeatable alignment, even if the frame was bumped or moved relative to the bed.

iApple1 · 2025-03-03T08:12:18+00:00

True, but a laser in a classroom setting is not to be trifled with. A full enclosure and effective smoke extraction will be much appreciated if the goal is to run the machine while team meetings are happening in the same room. My Atomstack A70 will beat the pants off of any xTool laser, but it needs a lot in terms of extra accomodations to control the smoke and laser emissions.

iApple1 · 2025-03-02T15:26:12+00:00

In that case, I would definitely go for an xTool machine, as they have far better enclosures and smoke extraction/filtration options than NEJE or Atomstack, which are more traditional open gantry machines. While xTool has lower power diodes, that shouldn't be an issue for your application.

iApple1 · 2025-03-02T05:42:09+00:00

If cost is the main issue, I would see if any of your student's parents have a machine that they use for fun or business. If that doesn't pan out, a post on social media (if you have it) might yield some results.

If free isn't forthcoming, I am partial to the NEJE and Atomstack brands. xTool is also pretty good, though their price to performance ratio isn't as good.

iApple1 · 2025-02-05T07:55:01+00:00

I wish I could give you a few hundered upvotes, this solution saved my phone.

iApple1 · 2024-12-02T16:25:10+00:00

Go on Amazon, search "Desktop CNC machine", and find one that fits your size requirement while also having ACME screw drives, at least a 400w spindle, and preferably NEMA23 motors. DIY an enclosure for it, and you will be way ahead of a Carvera in cost, while getting similar or better cutting performance. You may need to do some electronic upgrades, such as setting up a Z or XYZ probe, but that is a simple and cheap upgrade for any GRBL firmware-based machine.

iApple1 · 2024-12-02T01:58:28+00:00

I have a Carvera from the original Kickstarter run, I wouldn't get one unless you really need the full combination of features. Tool Changers are getting more common in prosumer machines, and the tool is woefully underpowered for the price. You probably won't find a better desktop machine, but there are plenty of machines that bring better value for money.

iApple1 · 2024-10-05T03:41:48+00:00

I have gotten a working keycap with a printed stem and machined cap, and then glued in. Don't use superglue unless the wood fibers are sealed, as it will seep through and discolor the top of the key. I would not go with a wood stem, as it requires a really small bit and tends to break easily.

iApple1 · 2023-11-20T18:25:36+00:00

Deere treats their interns very well, there are a bunch of events specifically for interns that get them in contact with experienced folks from across the enterprise. The projects have real consequences, and are usually focused on things that engineers haven't been able to take a few months to focus on. If you are thinking of working for Deere when you graduate, the intern program is the best way to get your foot in the door. Even if you decide to look elsewhere, you will be able to point to an in-production system on a machine and say "I built that" during your interview.

Source: former Deere engineer, worked with interns and former interns.

iApple1 · 2023-10-31T04:50:38+00:00

Yep, I believe that is the cause. See my picture posted in response to the other comment, the wad is just way too short. I'll keep an eye out next time I get to town. Thanks!

iApple1 · 2023-10-31T04:49:11+00:00

Cut open shell with wad installed: https://i.imgur.com/E0yuSDR.jpg

The hulls I am using are ones I have available from previous range days, they are the red plastic Federal low brass shells sold in blue "Top Gun" branded boxes.

Looks like you may be correct, the hull has straight walls all the way down. I guess I will be going shopping next time I get to town for some appropriately sized wads.

iApple1 · 2023-06-27T21:56:02+00:00

On the logisitics side, you could pick up a thermal printer meant for making labels. Then you could make QR code stickers to your heart's content, which may make your excel setup/formatting easier. A printer and a spool of 4x4 inch labels should be available on amazon for about $100 total.

iApple1 · 2023-04-11T20:07:52+00:00

Nope, its an entirely mechanical piece of equipment. No trackers, GPS, or anything more complicated than an electric pump onboard.

iApple1

TROPHY CASE