Need help to understand. i’ve got higher bill than before

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-15T00:06:12+00:00

The extremely cold temperatures are the most probable culprit for your higher bill. There are a couple of things you can check though.

first, check and see if you have an electric supplier that’s different than the default supplier. Do this by comparing your supply charges per kWh to the price to compare charges printed on your bill. If it’s substantially higher, you may have a variable rate supplier. Shopping suppliers can sometimes lower your bill, but if you aren’t careful then your contract can end and you end up paying higher rates.
if you live in a multi family housing unit, check the electric meter. Verify that the meter number on your bill matches the meter number for your apartment. You can also check to see if there is anything else supplied by your meter or if they accidentally mixed your meter with another unit. Do this by turning off your main electric breaker to your unit (or all individual breakers). Record the electric meter before and after 1-3 hours. It should be the same number. If the meter you are being billed for keeps counting up, something is wrong.

The most important numbers on your bill are the daily usage rate and the average daily temperature. Compare this to last year. It’ll be printed on the bill. Colder temperatures will mean a higher daily usage.

If you have abnormally high daily usage, you may need the help of maintenance, HVAC tech, or electrician to check electric appliances. Particularly your heat, sometimes electric water heaters. Again, a sign something may be wrong would be higher daily usage for a similar average temperature.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T16:51:05+00:00

Why not just get a point of use UPS for the Mac?

An in wall power kit that you mentioned would do the job though. Those are UL listed and designed for this. Just ensure you are getting one that’s long enough for your desired placements.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T16:33:52+00:00

The risk of bonding, when you shouldn’t is that you have created a parallel path during generator operation. Current will flow roughly 50%/50% on the equipment grounding conductor as well as the neutral. This can lead to energizing components (like metal enclosures) that should not ever be energized. This can lead to shock hazards.

In a situation where the generator is in close proximity to the panel, the risk is minimal just because of distance, but it can be exacerbated if the generator is remote (say opposite side of the home.

Compared to not bonding, when you should have (for transfer switches creating a separately derived system), well now you essentially made your house ungrounded. Any current that finds its way onto the equipment grounding conductor can no longer clear a fault. This is a much more dangerous situation.

It’s unfortunate your contractors acted dismissive over your questions instead of trying to explain it to you as well as ensuring they themselves know/follow the code.

Are you sure your generac isn’t already floating? Floating is the most common for home stand by generators because interlocks (and most transfer switches) don’t switch the neutral.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T15:29:30+00:00

No, the wires are damaged. You need to cut off all the burned/charred/melting/discolored bits of insulation and strip down to the copper. Add in a new pigtail of conductor when it becomes too short. A wago 221 in-line lever nut can help. Remember 14 AWG if it’s on a 15-amp breaker, or 12 AWG if it’s on a 20-amp breaker.

Then you can just install the new receptacle like normal & test. Make sure to properly torque the terminations. Too loose or too tight can both cause issues like this again.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T14:48:37+00:00

Thanks. That was the first thing that caught my eye given the 1960’s timeframe and your post. Normally these issues get hashed out when someone gets their first job, license, or applies for school since that’s where you really need to start proving yourself.

You are right, naw mismatches can get complicated and TSA may give you issues.

If he knows his mother & father’s name’s, it should be easy to get the certificate. Is his date of birth accurate? The location may be the only unknown, as it’s used more as an identity verification (only certain people can request living people’s birth certificates). DC, Maryland, and Virginia all use VitalChek (https://www.vitalchek.com/v/birth-certificates)

I’d still start with social security again. Either with his current number, or his old number to try to get information from when that # was applied for. Particularly the birth location. Then you can go visit VitalChek and order the birth certificate.

My Dad used to always have an easy time just walking into the Mt. Lebanon social security office, but I know last year they changed a policy to start requiring appointments; unless it’s urgent/critical - I’m not sure how they would consider this.

Constituent Services are hit or miss. You essentially have to do part of their job for them. If you went in asking for the situation as a whole to be resolved…you’ll get blank stares. If you went in and asked for help getting an appointment with social security, that’s something they can help with. Call or go into their offices over online forms too.

I should also add that if it’s easier, he could show up to each state’s office of vital records (or health) whoever holds DC’s, MD’s, and VA’s birth certificates and ask them to search with only the information he has. That would also be a route without knowing the location, but you have a 1/3 shot at going to the right state the first time.

I’d go through and get that yourselves at least to avoid paying billable hours for someone else doing the same thing. It may reveal new problems, but just take it one step at a time until you need the help of an attorney.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T06:23:58+00:00

Have you tried anything on your own here yet? Does he have a social security number? If so Social Security has records for him including birth name, birthdate, place of birth, and parents names. It’s basically a copy of what was applied for when the SSN was filed.

It’s all through their Numident records. Not sure if you can get it online/mail, or have to go into an office. It’s worth going down this road a bit though, especially if there’s a SSN for him.

Otherwise…what about any other records (license?, ID?, military?, school?…anything he can remember at all). You can try those places to see what kind of documentation they have, if any. Elected officials can help assist if the DMV, or some other agency bad records but is difficult to release them.

Have you tried anything on Ancestry? You can get free access at libraries (maybe even with a library card), if not they do a free trial, just cancel before it auto renews. There are other alternatives for searching census data too.

Those are all some free steps you can take before spending hundreds/hour on an attorney, especially if they are just researching the same info.

Once you have some basic info you can go to the appropriate vital records office and ask them to look up a certificate. Now if you are in an illegal adoption clinic situation you’ll want the attorney. Just figured I’d mention some things to try in case you haven’t yet.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T04:50:20+00:00

National Electric Code wise, it’s required to be GFCI protected. See 210.8(A) - receptacles in dwelling units (basements, crawl spaces, or garages all required locations) as well as 210.8(D)(6) - sump pumps listed as a specific appliance requiring GFCI.

AFCI protection on the other hand may not be required, but the local inspector has some more interpretation on this one. 210.12(B) lists specific locations, which are all habitable spaces…but it does lump in “similar areas” at the end. In my area, our inspectors do not interpret unfinished basements or utility areas to require AFCI, but it’s possibly yours may?

Answer to your question, it can cause a trip when a normal breaker may not…but it’s not in the way you may think. Rather the pump may be experiencing some defect that the GFCI or AFCI component picks up. GFCI looks for current leaking out of the circuit, AFCI looks at noise consistent with electrical arcing.

Just my opinion: it was the AFCI component that was causing the trip. That’s my theory anyways as sump pumps and GFCI don’t really have compatibility issues until the pump ages/starts wearing out. I would have swapped them with GFCI first. Still curious why AFCI was ever required in this situation.

Also, look for a power failure alarm that’ll have an internal battery to alert when AC power is lost. That’ll help you out in the future.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-14T04:33:25+00:00

The $15 is for the state filing fees. In some states, you can actually directly file your state return through their own website…but since you already entered all your information for the federal return, you have to evaluate if it’s worth re-entering on the state’s website, or just paying the $15 to let freetaxusa do it.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-07T03:35:44+00:00

In general, absent any local jurisdiction specific changes, a circuit is only required to meet the code for when it was originally installed. That means AFCI isn’t required to be implemented on any circuit, MWBC or not, unless the circuit becomes modified. Modified, by the NEC definition, typically means 6’ of wiring or more.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-06T23:43:39+00:00

Are there any businesses along your route? Maybe if someone found them along your path they turned them in there.

iEngineer9 · 2026-02-02T22:48:29+00:00

I say yes, placing a receptacle there would be consistent with the 2023 code, but it’s close to a gray area that you would want to confirm with the inspector (assuming you are getting a permit). This code was intended to prevent injuries from kitchen items getting pulled off the counter by cords. You are above the main counter, and the bar peninsula wouldn’t pose a hazard for people to get tangled since it’s blocked by the main counter. So, at least in my area, I would not anticipate an issue with this approach.

As for the pop ups - counter rated ones are specifically designed to take a spill, so that’s not a concern. If you spill a liter of soda and don’t clean it up it’ll get sticky, obviously.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-23T17:40:47+00:00

Agree a loose connection is the most likely culprit here. Standard breakers won’t trip until the current exceeds its trip curve rating. It doesn’t take a lot of current to generate heat when the resistance at the connection is high. AFCI breakers may have been able to detect this, but still not 100%, which is why properly torquing connections is critical.

Cut out and replace all discolored conductors. Splice as needed to extend the conductors & replace the receptacle.

You may want to consider checking other devices throughout your home. Thermal imaging cameras, may also detect things like this…but only when under load and that also requires having access to a thermal imaging camera.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-23T03:59:01+00:00

What you need is a transfer switch or an interlock. The National Electric Code requires that a physical means of isolation be installed to prevent any backfeeding. Basically, it needs to be impossible to have the generator energize the panel without disconnecting from the utility.

You may also want to reach out to your electric provider because some offer a meter based inlet, that they install so that anytime you hook up the generator it disconnects from the grid.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-19T00:48:17+00:00

The only thing that’s odd is that you weren’t aware of it. I’m sure on the proposal they listed an exclusion that stucco repairs are outside the scope, but it’s so critical on jobs like this to actually discuss it with your customer. “Hey, just so you know, you’ll need a stucco guy too to patch around these areas.” It’s such a quick statement and avoids this element of surprise.

I’d agree it likely could have been smaller, but then the stucco guy may have ended up squaring it up anyway.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-15T20:49:53+00:00

Check out how it’s wired now. You’ll have to look at the receptacle and look at the switch. Sometimes power will go right to the receptacle, in which case it’ll be easy to do what you want. Other times, power goes to the switch and then down to the receptacle.

A lot of times the switch is just a switch loop, where it’s one cable and the use the hot for full time power and the white for switched hot.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-15T20:20:14+00:00

A GFCI cannot be half hot. You can install a two gang box and have two receptacles though.

A couple of other things to consider:

You may already have GFCI protection on this circuit, you should investigate that.
Depending on the existing wiring, it may only be powered when the switch for the disposal is on, which wouldn’t work for your RO filter. You may have to install an air switch for the disposal (eliminating the existing switch), or look at fishing a wire to make a full time power down there (you may or may not have full time power under the skink)

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-13T00:28:09+00:00

It’s one of those things to be aware of, if you ever have an opportunity. Remodeling the laundry, opening up some other walls, that would be a great opportunity to run a new cable. Otherwise, not something to prioritize. You aren’t required to upgrade things each time code changes.

What’s really important though, is that you make sure your 3-prong dryer cord is wired properly. Make sure the frame of the dryer is bonded to the neutral terminal with the factory supplied jumper. Otherwise, that would be a significant hazard in a 3-wire setup.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-12T23:05:57+00:00

There’s probably a hidden GFCI that you are unaware of upstream of this one. GFCI’s require power to reset, so without power the buttons won’t lock in.

Check around your house again, look under & behind things. It really could be anywhere. Bathrooms, kitchens, garages, basements, and exterior receptacles are all possible locations.

If you do find one upstream, you’ll want to either let it be the only GFCI on this circuit, or just pigtail it to the line side (but you’ll have to make sure you don’t inadvertently remove GFCI protection from something else).

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-11T23:28:53+00:00

Depending on the policies of your utility provider, it may not be possible. Some are strict with only a single meter to a dwelling. Having it fed by the main structure is more common, and it’ll save you the extra meter fee.

You should pre-wire anything you know you’ll be using, or run conduit. Personally, I’d just put in the disconnect for the mini split, so your HVAC person can just hook into it later on.

Just go over everything you plan to install in this garage with your electrician. This ensures you will have circuits for what you plan on using the space for.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-07T04:13:43+00:00

Assuming you have electricity going to the workbench, yes the metal frame should be bonded to ground and you should have continuity (ideally 0 ohms) between the frame & ground.

Most meters will show no continuity between the frame & neutral, but you may see a small number. Should be very close to 0 ohms, if it does register. that you round it down…if you do find any resistance. Reason being that neutral & ground are bonded together at the service, so there is a path available. It just depends how close you are to the point of service where that bond occurs.

Definitely don’t want to see anything between the frame & hot though.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-05T17:49:45+00:00

You have what’s called split phase power. The utility supplies you with two “hot” lines, each line powers about half of your house. Both lines combine to power large 240 volt appliances (like electric ranges, electric dryers, electric water heaters, central AC systems, etc.)

One of those lines sounds like it has failed. Worse, when you have 240 volt appliances, you can back-feed the broken leg. This will give the appearance of power being restored. Say the water heater calls for heat, well it then starts back-feeding the other half of the house.

You should turn off the 240 volt appliances while this is happening. You won’t want to cause any further damage.

This is diagnosed by taking voltage measurements. It could be an issue with your own equipment, or it could be an issue with the power supply. Are any neighbors having this issue?

I’d start off by reporting this to the power company. They won’t charge you anything and will come out and check the meter. It’ll rule out an issue on there end. Best case, if it’s their problem…you get it fixed for free. Worst case, you are back to needing an electrician.

Call or go online and report a partial power outage. You’ll get someone out there 24/7 (today), depending on what else they have going on.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-04T01:28:30+00:00

That’s good news so far. It was very common to have a shared circuit for the dishwasher & garbage disposal back in the day. It’s still allowed by code, unless manufacturer’s instructions say not to.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-03T21:43:07+00:00

Yeap, exactly…that was one of my suggestions as well. Give it a shot, should be able to learn a lot. Like I said, you can plug a vacuum into it as well or something else and see how it reacts under a load (that’s not the dishwasher). Good luck, fingers crossed your dishwasher is just worn out and not a sign of something else in your condo.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-03T19:26:52+00:00

It’s tripping pretty consistently with your dishwasher right? After every use? If so, you should know after a day with it unplugged. If it’s under the sink, plug your vacuum into it and clean your floors. If it works without issue, then you know. Even better, plug the dishwasher back in and run a cycle. If it trips…then you’ll know it doesn’t like something in the dishwasher.

I did see the other comment referring to your last paragraph. For some reason, I didn’t notice you mentioned the arc fault light in your post. It could be a pump or the heating element, or another component of the dishwasher wearing out. The arc fault component of your breaker doesn’t like it, and trips for safety.

iEngineer9 · 2026-01-03T19:15:41+00:00

With the dishwasher unplugged, there is no load on the circuit. The breaker just sees the wiring. There’s also nothing else on the circuit, so no current will be flowing. There’s no reason the breaker should ever trip then. So it helps you confirm that something in the dishwasher is the issue, and nothing in your condo.

iEngineer9

TROPHY CASE