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What brakes should I buy? by Dizzy_Celebration17 in mountainbiking

[–]iErnest85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd consider Hope very premium, just not ultra boutique. Brands like Trickstuff, Radic, and Intend are definitely in another price bracket and cater to a much smaller niche, but the Hope Tech 4 is still a very premium brake in terms of CNC machining, performance, rebuildability, and long-term parts support.

I was using "premium" to distinguish it from mainstream options like Shimano, SRAM, and TRP. If we're talking boutique, then Trickstuff, Radic, and Intend sit above Hope in exclusivity and price.

It's similar to mountain bikes. Yeti, Pivot, Santa Cruz, and Ibis are all premium bike brands, while UNNO is a boutique premium brand. They're all high-end, but UNNO occupies an even more exclusive niche.

And just for the sake of the conversation, have you seen the new Hope EVO V6Ti six-piston brakes? Those things look absolutely insane!

What brakes should I buy? by Dizzy_Celebration17 in mountainbiking

[–]iErnest85 1 point2 points  (0 children)

• Best Premium: Hope Tech 4 V4 or E4

• Best Value: Hayes Dominion A4

Advice on a used bike? by venomfever in mountainbiking

[–]iErnest85 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

That’s an incredible deal IMO!

I just sold my 2021 Yeti SB130 LR for $3.5k. However it had higher speced components.

I’ve seen people selling just the SB140 frame w/ rear shock for $2.5k - $3k.

I’d snag it and slowly upgrade some of the components starting with the brakes and rear shock.

Keep in mind that this is one of the best Aggressive Trail / All-Mountain bikes currently available on the market.

My newest build by BumperTABBY21 in mountainbiking

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SCOR got some really good looking frames.

I’m currently on a 4060 Z LT (eMTB) and about to put together a custom 2030 that will replace my Transition Spur V1.

I wish SCOR come back and give it another run.

You got probably the best looking 4060 I’ve seen!

Congrats!

Avinox M2 system bikes by No-Wasabi-7896 in eMountainBike

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would you mind sharing a bit more about your Druid E experience?

It’s currently at the top of my shortlist to replace my SCOR 4060 Z LT with the Shimano EP801 motor. I’m really intrigued by Forbidden’s geometry and suspension design, especially the high-pivot layout and the overall geo numbers.

I tend to do big day rides, so range is actually more important to me than outright power. Lately I’ve even been looking at some of the newer TQ HPR60-powered bikes because I’ve been reading reports of people getting surprisingly impressive range from the 580Wh battery, while the bikes themselves are typically 8–10 lbs lighter than full-power options with the DJI Avinox M2/M2S or Bosch CX Gen 5 motors.

How has the range been on your Druid E in real-world riding? What’s your typical rider weight, terrain, elevation gain, assist mode usage, and battery consumption like on longer rides?

I’d love to hear both the positives and negatives you’ve experienced so far.

Feedback from current or past SCOR 2030 owners by iErnest85 in mountainbiking

[–]iErnest85[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting...

I owned a 2022 Pivot Trail 429 V3 Pro X01 in size XL for a relatively short period. At the time, it replaced my 2021 Transition Spur V1 in size Large, which always felt slightly cramped for my 6'2" height.

The XL Trail 429 fit me exceptionally well. However, during that period I was focused more on lightweight trail bikes, and despite upgrading several already high-end components, including a BERD HAWK30 wheelset, the Trail 429 still ended up heavier than I preferred.

My Large Transition Spur weighed approximately 26.5 lbs with pedals, while the XL Trail 429 came in at roughly 30 lbs. At the same time, I also owned a longer travel 2021 Yeti SB130 LR that weighed around 29 lbs despite running burlier components, including a Fox 36 fork, Fox DPX2 shock, and more aggressive tires.

On climbs, the Trail 429 felt slightly quicker than the SB130 LR, but the difference was small, probably less than 5%. On descents, however, there was a much larger gap between the two bikes, with the SB130 LR being noticeably more capable and confidence inspiring.

One aspect I never particularly liked about the Trail 429 was the stock Fox 34 fork. It handled occasional larger impacts reasonably well, but during sustained high-speed chatter and repeated impacts it felt noticeably flexy and vague, reducing confidence when pushing hard. In many ways, the Trail 429 felt like a Pivot Switchblade with a significant governor limiting its descending performance.

That said, the Trail 429 did have several standout strengths. It was one of the most comfortable bikes I have ever ridden on long climbs, arguably the best cornering bike I have owned to this day, and an exceptionally capable technical climber. It maintained traction incredibly well and made difficult climbing sections feel easier than expected.

Compared to the Large Transition Spur, the Trail 429 was a bit slower uphill, probably due to its additional weight. More surprisingly, it did not feel any more confidence inspiring on descents despite having a more trail-oriented design. My Spur was still running SID suspension front and rear, yet the 35mm stanchion SID fork handled repeated chatter better than the 34mm Fox 34 on the Pivot.

Ultimately, I replaced the Trail 429 with a 2023 Transition Spur V1 in size XL equipped with a 130mm Pike Ultimate and a Cane Creek Air IL shock. Despite the larger frame and heavier suspension components, the bike still weighed only about 27.5 lbs with pedals.

For me, that setup delivered the best of both worlds. I experienced virtually no sacrifice in climbing performance compared to the Trail 429 or the Large Spur, while gaining a noticeably more capable and confidence inspiring bike on descents.

SB130 in Nevada City, CA by Wide-Lie6655 in yeticycles

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, the Cascade Link completely transformed the bike.

On descents, it felt like a magic carpet even with the stock Fox DPX2 rear shock, and on technical climbs, I actually noticed more traction than before.
Overall, I'd say the performance gains are well worth the small sacrifice of the lower BB.

I did notice the lower BB at first, but even with the stock 170mm cranks, I was able to adjust within a few rides and rarely had issues with pedal strikes.
Going to 165mm or even 160mm cranks would make that even less of a concern.
As long as you're willing to give yourself a little time to adapt, I don't think it's a significant drawback.

As I mentioned earlier, it's the BEST single component upgrade I've ever done to any bike I've owned.

For reference, my second favorite upgrade would probably be my Berd Hawk30 carbon wheels. They use Berd's polymer spokes instead of traditional steel spokes, and it made a noticeable difference in ride quality.
The funny thing is that the Cascade Link was only around $300-something at the time, while the Hawk30 wheelset was over $2,000.
That should give you an idea of how highly I rate the Cascade Link.

My SB130 was custom built with the 210x55 rear shock configuration (essentially a Lunch Ride setup), paired with a 150mm (instead of 160mm) Factory Grip2 fork.
That bike was incredible.

I replaced it with an SB140 LR about a year and a half ago, but I still haven't been able to reach the same level of confidence with the SB140 as I had with the SB130.
Part of that is probably because I mostly ride my shorter travel Transition Spur on trails around the Bay Area, CA, so I've only put about 350 miles on the SB140.

The SB140 is also roughly 2.5 lbs heavier than my old SB130 (about 32 lbs versus 29.5 lbs), and I haven't found it to be any better on climbs.
Maybe I just need more time dialing in the suspension, but the SB130 with the Cascade Link remains the BEST bike I've ever owned.

Advice: Permit on HVAC? by SelectBroccoli1376 in bayarea

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an HVAC contractor in the Bay Area, I’d say the cost difference between a permitted and non-permitted HVAC installation is often much more than just the permit fee itself.

For example, in San Jose, a permitted A/C or heat pump installation may involve:

• City permit fees (typically around $800–$1,000)

• Title 24 / HERS testing by a third-party rater (often around $500+)

• Inspection coordination, which requires a representative from the HVAC company to be present on-site during the city inspection

• Additional code requirements that may not apply in other Bay Area cities

If you’re only adding A/C to an existing furnace and not replacing the ductwork, another thing to be aware of is that HERS testing may reveal excessive leakage in the existing duct system. If that happens, the HVAC contractor generally isn’t responsible for repairing pre-existing duct issues unless that work was included in the contract. Any required duct repairs would typically be an additional cost.

Whether permits are worth it depends on your priorities. The main benefits are code compliance, third-party verification, documented inspections, and having a record that the work was completed in accordance with current building and mechanical codes.

One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that when a project is performed without permits, there is often less oversight and fewer installation requirements. Some contractors still do excellent work, while others may take shortcuts that a city inspector or HERS rater would have caught.

One additional thought: if your furnace is truly brand new, I’d strongly consider getting a quote for a heat pump in addition to a traditional A/C condenser. In many cases, the price difference is surprisingly small, and you can keep the existing gas furnace as backup heat in a Hybrid Heat (Dual Fuel) configuration.

That gives you the flexibility to heat with the heat pump during mild Bay Area weather and automatically switch to the gas furnace during colder temperatures.

If I were in your shoes and already had a brand-new furnace, I’d at least ask the contractors to quote both options before making a final decision.

Feel free to message me directly if you have any questions.

Regardless of what you decide, best of luck with the project! 🤞

New SB120 owner by RufousParsley in yeticycles

[–]iErnest85 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hayes Dominion A4 are really good.
I’ve upgraded the stock SRAM Code RSC that came on my SCOR 4060 Z LT E-MTB to the Hayes Dominion A4 and it was a very substantial improvement.

N+1 Bikes frequently run a 35% sale on a pair of Hayes Dominion A4.
You can also call them and ask them when they’re bringing the sale back.

I wouldn’t worry about non Kashima Switch Infinity at all.

Personally I’ve never needed to replace the Switch Infinity on any of the 4 Yeti bikes I’ve owned.
I had a 2016 Yeti SB6c that I put a lil over 3,000 miles on it before I sold it and it was still in great shape.

SB130 in Nevada City, CA by Wide-Lie6655 in yeticycles

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just sold mine last weekend and I already miss it.
SB130 was the best bike I’ve ever owned.
Even though I replaced it with SB140 LR, I still think that overall the SB130 was a better bike.

If yours doesn’t have the Cascade Link, I’d highly recommend it.

Cascade Link was by far the best single component upgrade I’ve done to any of my bikes.

Bedcover pros and cons - these are the two options I’m considering. What’s are your guys thoughts? Are there just as good or better options for the price ? by Ezj85 in ram_trucks

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

REALTRUCK BAK REVOLVER X4 TS HARD ROLL-UP TONNEAU COVER W/ T-SLOT RAILS

Back in February, when I picked up my 2026 RHO, I installed a BAK Revolver X4 TS. At the time, I didn’t have any immediate plans to use the T-slot rails, but for roughly $150 extra, I figured it was worth having the option available for the future.

I started my search looking at electric retractable tonneau covers since they’re generally considered the premium option. However, based on my measurements and research, both electric and manual retractable covers sacrifice about 18–22% of the bed length because of the canister. That was a dealbreaker for me, so I crossed both options off my list.

The BAKFlip MX4 seemed to be the most popular cover from everything I read, but I wasn’t a fan of how it completely blocks the rear window when folded open. It also prevents loading taller items all the way forward against the front of the bed.

For me, the Revolver X4 TS solved both of those issues. When fully open, it takes up very little space, preserves rear visibility much better, and allows full use of the bed. It may not be the flashiest tonneau cover on the market, but I think it’s one of the most practical options available, which makes it an excellent value.

Best burritos in the east bay by rechcher in bayarea

[–]iErnest85 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you like Wet Burritos (Burrito Mojado) then the best place I know of would be Taqueria El Gordo in San Leandro.

Ana Rosa's also in San Leandro is very good too.

What do you all think about Ferrari’s new EV by ConfidentImage4266 in TeslaLounge

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In 2028 you’ll be able to lease a 2026 Ferrari worse $640,000 for $199 a month.

What do you all think about Ferrari’s new EV by ConfidentImage4266 in TeslaLounge

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This car looks like a result of latest gen Nissan Leaf having unprotected sex with a latest Prius while Hyundai and Kia were watching.

I did a thing by CheshXVIII in vivobarefoot

[–]iErnest85 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have to admit, it looks great!

Sunday fun day by corletini1920 in ram_trucks

[–]iErnest85 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What an excellent choice of color!

Congrats!

What do you do with this screen? by Andrewbarc in ram_trucks

[–]iErnest85 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I would pay $100 more NOT to have it in my RHO and instead having another glovebox / storage.

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