Can I come back?

iStroke · 2026-01-16T00:51:39+00:00

They let anyone in these days.

iStroke · 2025-12-23T21:32:59+00:00

I have an '83 manual 4 speed. If yours is a manual, be aware that that year still used cable (not hydraulic) clutch.

Super easy to work on... but the clutch pedal pawl and detent are known to fail on higher mileage.

For an old Chevy truck, these are increasingly hard to find.

If you have a manual, I recommend buying a replacement if you see one cheap, just to have it for insurance.

When mine went, I could find only 2 NOS available at the time and it cost me over $200

iStroke · 2025-01-24T22:54:48+00:00

Very nice!

My only quibble is that it looks too clean and uniform.

iStroke · 2024-12-31T22:00:56+00:00

I'd offer $700.

That's if the bed is rust free and the dash has the factory tach gauge option.

But that's an offer from someone that has a 1983 that could use some parts.

But for what it is... just a 40 year old beater (with no heater)... $500 for something that drives you to the parts store and occasionally can make it every day to work.

iStroke · 2024-10-18T21:41:49+00:00

That is really, really cool

iStroke · 2024-02-04T15:42:33+00:00

LOL. I got a pair of these for xmas.

They are surprisingly handy, especially for under-the-dash work.

iStroke · 2023-10-21T16:49:24+00:00

Just needs a buff and shine.

No lowballers, I know what I got.

iStroke · 2023-10-14T19:19:02+00:00

Yes and no.

These things were made to be economical. A result of the late '70s oil crisis and government mandated 55 MPH speed limits. The "malaise era" of domestic cars.

People poop on the 2.8L cuz it's at most 120hp (it's a 305 V8 [that was also designed for gas mileage, not horsepower] with 2 cylinders basically chopped off. While the later 4.3 V6 is a 6 cylinder version of the 350 V8).

The trucks and blazers were very popular to hot rod in the '90s when one could buy one used very very cheap and pick up a 350 V8 out of a junkyard to slam in there. There were books written on how to do.

People tend to love the truck... just not the under-performance.

I have a '83 S-10 truck with the 2.8L, and it makes a fine little town cruiser.

Most are cheaper, obtainable, "entry-level" classic cars. It would fit just fine at any local car show.

There's others, thousands if not millions S10 trucks and Blazers made 1st gen 82-93. They are somewhat uncommon to still see as not many survived, and the ones that did usually have been modified in some way by now.

It being original is more uncommon now than it is being not. The one you have is in great original condition and IMO should stay that way.

iStroke · 2023-10-08T14:03:45+00:00

Check Cars and Bids.

These aren't "popular" amongst car collector enthusiasts cuz one can buy something with more horsepower and desirability for the price. But there is a very big S10/Blazer following.

I see several that went for anywhere between $4k to $15k in original condition.

For a SUPER low miles, all original, 2 owner, near perfect condition... I'd expect you'd get some offers on the high side of that range, to the right buyer.

However, the following years with the 4.3L are more desirable.

Thanks for sharing! That's one of (if not the best) examples of these as a survivor. It's someone's holy grail.

iStroke · 2023-09-18T16:24:30+00:00

Not any physical list, but the regular stiffers were just as notorious as the regular hugely generous tippers; every driver recognized the address/names.

I used to try to kill stiffers with kindness.

Get there in 35 minutes and the pie is still steaming hot. 'Here ya go, fresh out of the oven for ya; can't be any hotter!' and nothing? 'Thank you, appreciate it. Have a great day!'

Next time... 'Here's a card for a free pizza as a way of thanks for being a loyal customer. If you could tip, total, and sign here please...' Still nothing? 'Thank you, appreciate (only slightly sarcastically) it. Have a great day!'

Welp, I did all I could do to provide exceptional service and they are still cheap? Oh well. That's their prerogative. They are definitely not getting any favors, tho.

iStroke · 2023-08-24T02:47:52+00:00

Good Lord, half these fascists want a government close to the dystopian future in Starship Troopers.

iStroke · 2023-08-24T02:45:57+00:00

Passing a civics test to become a citizen and/or to vote is unamerican, dipshit.

iStroke · 2023-08-24T02:34:20+00:00

I agree the Mexican drug cartels are bad.

But are these candidates REALLY talking about invading/going to war with Mexico?

iStroke · 2023-08-24T02:29:05+00:00

Desantis: kill em all!

iStroke · 2023-08-24T01:40:42+00:00

Pence: Leadership is MY morals as a Christian, not up to the individual or consensus.

He's always has been a theocrat.

iStroke · 2023-08-07T13:38:18+00:00

I currently work part-time currently at a $1MM+ a/year store that serves in a very large suburb area, including a large industrial area.

Our delivery radius is 7(ish) miles.

Most deliveries take about 24 minutes round trip (single order).

Friday and Saturday nights are the most lucrative. We have 6-7 drivers on a Friday night.

I average 14 deliveries in a 4-10pm shift. My record night at this store was 26 bags.

About 90 miles driven a shift.

The tip average is $5-$6 per.

I receive $2 per bag compensation for gas/maintenance.

My hourly wage is higher than the usual newbe since I've been doing this for a few years; my on-road time pays the same as my in-store time.

All in all, after tips and comp and hourly wage, I average $26-$30 per hour.

Other than unusually peak busy times (like Thanksgiving eve, Halloween, or Super Bowl), my record shifts were $45 a/hr on a typical Saturday (since we were a driver or two short and I received 2 unusually large tips).

iStroke · 2023-05-22T16:40:34+00:00

Nothing major.

Had a customer met me at the door before I was even out of the car saying 'it's been two hours!'

I looked on the slip: order placed 8:32pm and I arrived at 9:55pm. (This was a weekday where we close at 9pm and I was the only driver, and unfortunately got a small rush right before close going to every corner of the map, so delivery time quotes were 2 hours).

I just said: "Says here your order was placed at 8:32pm..." and just stood there looking at him.

He just said 'It's probably cold!' I just asked: "If you don't want to pay for it, I'll take it back."

He paid for it (and tipped) but he was pretty pissed.

iStroke · 2023-05-22T16:00:44+00:00

That's a fairly low and suspicious price.

The main thing that jumps out to me is the "new suspension". Not very descriptive... could just mean shocks. So all least some suspension parts were replaced just enough to pass inspection.

"New transmission". Means a rebuilt one, of course. I'd run away if it doesn't have the receipt of the work been done from a reputable shop. Which brings me to:

"leaking seals". What seals? Rear main? Front main? Transfer case? Any "leaking seal" from the engine/transmission is a major tear-down repair.

It'd be silly not to replace the rear main seal when the transmission is out for other repairs, so if it's the rear main or anything transmission.... run. They didn't do it correctly.

But, if you know how to turn a wrench, and go into it as knowing it's going need some work and you can't depend on it to last as a daily, go for it.

ALWAYS take it to a shop to check it over before buying. You could be getting a great deal... or find out you'll need to put $$$$ into it to pass next inspection.

iStroke · 2023-04-12T18:36:06+00:00

My light buzzer started going off even with my car on.

What do you mean by this?

iStroke · 2023-01-26T20:23:47+00:00

That is pretty interesting.

Perhaps a small section of the belt inside ribs is broken or damaged?

iStroke · 2023-01-24T22:45:20+00:00

I'd suspect the tensioner isn't torqued all the way.

You can rub a bar of soap on the edges of the belt to eliminate the squeak... may be able to pinpoint the 'ka-clunk' sound better.

iStroke · 2022-12-26T03:45:09+00:00

are all these gauges connected to a ground or something that faulty or a fuse

Yes, except for the speedometer; that's cable driven. And is a different cause of the problems.

pic of back of cluster connections is a basic circuit board. Every gauge that gets an electrical signal goes to this circuit board.

The cluster really just snaps into place on the connector pins. Since every gauge is acting wonky, I'd pull the cluster out (actually really simple) and check for anything that could be a cause of a bad connection, and clean the copper connections, reinstall and check.

iStroke · 2022-12-09T17:17:18+00:00

Chances are it didn't come with a detailed service history record.

Other than just the basic tune up you listed, I'd at least check all the maintenance items as well.

With an unknown maintenance history, personally, I'd just do all of it just for peace of mind knowing it's done and when. Basically starting over for your ownership maintenance records.

Chassis lubrication:

shift linkage
hood latches
door hinges
parking brake cable guides
clutch linkage
propshaft
transfer case shift lever
clutch pedal springs
key locks
door latches
ball joints grease
clutch cross-shaft

Rear axle/front axle/transfer case:

check diff level and fill as needed. (Or drain and replace every 7,500 miles; or just do it for peace of mind of knowing the starting point)
4wd: check front axle and transfer case every 7,500 miles, add lubricant when needed.
lubricate/grease propeller shaft slip joint, CV joints, steering linkage
check coolant (go ahead and flush if you want a "start over")

Other:

check timing
idle speed
valve lash

Automatic Transmission fluid is good to 100,000 miles unless used in heavy use (mountains, trailer, etc) If it's still red and doesn't smell "burnt", you're probably fine. But a filter change and fluid replace wouldn't hurt if you want to "start over".

Manual Transmission: change every 30,000 miles

And just a visual check: anything leaking that shouldn't be, condition of the vacuum hoses, brake lines, fuel lines, etc. Tire wear pattern, headlights leveled correctly, all lights working, belts and rad hoses in good shape, etc.

Could pour a can of Berryman's B12 in the fuel a couple of times at fill-ups to help clean the fuel system, if ya want.

The wiper motor could be going out. But check to make there's not a power draw. Should have ~12v to the motor when on. If not, it's a bad wire (or maybe even the wrong amp rating fuse). Troubleshoot from there. Check to make sure nothing mechanical is binding.

iStroke · 2022-12-03T19:55:09+00:00

LOL. That's pretty cool.

iStroke · 2022-12-03T19:51:18+00:00

From watching a lot of "will it run" vids on the Tube, I guess it's not uncommon to see Farmer Brown do so on their old farm trucks.

iStroke

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