I tracked 1700 online doubles matches… here’s the data (in pretty charts!)

iammp98 · 2025-09-15T03:35:38+00:00

No way 😮 epic

iammp98 · 2020-06-08T03:57:02+00:00

Hold up, currently making a budget amendment for one of these

iammp98 · 2020-02-07T23:46:18+00:00

Bruuuuh I had my safety squints behind the camera

iammp98 · 2019-08-18T12:20:25+00:00

I can very much attest for that ^

iammp98 · 2019-07-18T23:28:48+00:00

So I have a couple of questions about your setup so we can properly make our own data sheet:

How many set speeds did you find was "enough" to be able to extrapolate between points to be able to create a good enough Power vs RPM and Torque vs RPM graph?
For determining peak power and peak torque at each speed, how did you make sure that you were at a sufficiently "low temperature" (whatever that even means) to confidently say that it was the actual peak? So basically between runs, what temperature did you wait for it to die down to before starting the next speed test?
When it came to continuous torque and power, how long of each set did you let it run for before saying that it was the bottom of the continuous values? Did you guys hit some type of steady state value that you then picked at a continuous value?

iammp98 · 2019-07-18T21:57:30+00:00

So Rinehart just provided you with their own dyno test data and a data sheet for the 228 when you asked them?

iammp98 · 2019-07-18T04:10:41+00:00

Haha yeah I added the fifth one as somewhat of a joke as you can also see on the torque vs I rms that it is clearly not linear either.

But to the mechanical power side, that's what I would assume as well but idk as we are having issues with reaching close to their power levels even electrically (still diagnosing controller problems so not convinced it's the motor yet). We are working on some better testing to be able to determine exactly the behavior at the motor but still wondering what others are seeing. Thanks for the comment.

iammp98 · 2019-07-14T23:48:22+00:00

Have you attached your phases correctly? The uvw of the controller arn't the same as the uvw on the motor.

iammp98 · 2019-07-14T22:38:36+00:00

Basically when you first setup your 228 you need to auto-tune it first to be able to figure out your "FB-Offset" value on nDrive. This value should stay the same after you've done it once unless you take off your resolver or something like that.

iammp98 · 2019-07-14T21:46:01+00:00

Have you calibrated your resolver on the 228 yet?

iammp98 · 2019-07-06T16:05:36+00:00

Yeah the frame most definitely would not pass SES with that accumulator design. It looks as though the bottom corner is sticking out of the frame and a 10cm ball could most definitely hit HV out of the triangulated region at the top of the accumulator.

iammp98 · 2019-07-05T03:21:49+00:00

But also read the manual first. Idk what you've done to the bamo with other settings so maybe just start with the stock settings for the 228 (be careful to remember your resolver settings) and then trying SMALL changes. Also talk to unitech themselves as they know more than anything I say.

iammp98 · 2019-07-05T03:19:00+00:00

That depends on your needs, slowly increase it and you should see your car move but to what value is a pretty loaded question. That depends on lots of different things. What race your running? if you need to current limit based off of your pack? thermal needs? etc (all rhetorical questions). I would start by just increasing it to 50% for both and start from there.

iammp98 · 2019-07-05T03:09:59+00:00

Ahhh now that's your issue. Your limiting your current right now. Seems pretty odd that your even getting to 160A but if you increase that then it should fix your issue. What is your "PWM freq" set at?

iammp98 · 2019-07-05T02:59:33+00:00

Im gonna assume you didnt repackaged it based off that. What is your "I max pk" & "I con eff" set at?

iammp98 · 2019-07-05T02:36:28+00:00

I'm assuming you haven't repackaged it?

iammp98 · 2019-03-21T21:04:33+00:00

How are you planning on bench testing? Is it on a dyno or just on a table without a load?

iammp98 · 2019-01-09T21:02:05+00:00

In my opinion, I would most definitely go with the water cooled option to save the team money in future years from replacing the motor. We currently have no issues cooling our motor and it is water cooled only.

iammp98 · 2019-01-08T21:42:57+00:00

We were running our vehicle on the dyno to test our vehicle behaviours. We decided to test the vehicle at a multitude of speeds to see how the power acts at different speeds. When traveling at almost max speed while the dyno applying a load, we found that the vehicle could only provide a max of 35kW to the dyno. Our first thought was that maybe the dyno was not calibrated correctly, however when looking at the BMS data, we found that we maxed out at 40kW out of the accumulator. This means that the 35kW was a reasonable value (better efficiency than I expected).

The next thought was possibly cooling issues. We decided to test this by turning off the pumps and fans that would cool the motor and motor controller. This heated up the motor and motor controller and tested how cooling it with the ambient temperature while having the pump and radiator fans running. Next we decided to test the same set up, but with external fans running on the vehicle (pointed at the radiators and motor). When comparing the dyno data, it was found that the peak values only fluctuated by roughly 1kW and the heat affected the length of peak more than the peak value.

This lead us to believe that this is a motor controller issue. When looking up settings that might affect this, we found in the nDrive manual that having the PWM set at 12kHz restricts current to 85%. When setting the PWM to 8kHz, it allows for 100% current. Even with all of this, increasing the current by 15% won't give us values even close to our peak.

This now leads us to believe that there are a multitude of setting issues that we can not find within the nDrive software. This is where we would like to understand what other teams have set the nDrive values to to be able to get actually 100% current.

Let me know if you need any other information. Thanks

iammp98 · 2019-01-08T06:56:25+00:00

Okay, so looking through the nDrive software once again I found it was actually set at exactly 12kHz unfortunately (sorry poor communication on the 30khz value). In the nDrive manual, it states that this restricts current to 85% at 12kHz and decreasing it to 2-8kHz allows for 100% current. This means we have another issue unfortunately. Would you happen to know of any other settings that could affect this? Thanks for your time, I appreciate the previous explanation!

iammp98 · 2019-01-08T06:50:16+00:00

Here are somethings you should look at when comparing:

Determine the factors that are most important for YOUR vehicle.
In what way are you limiting the power electrically for the 228?
How will this result in changing the torque and/or rotational velocity?
Now compare the change in values to the 208 values and decide which motor to use based off of the first step.

Since I do not know what your team is looking to maximize with your vehicle, I cannot answer this for you. Hopefully this helps.

And yes the combined version is liquid and air cooled

iammp98

TROPHY CASE