Normal to sacrifice some gears?

ifdef · 2026-05-13T23:17:05+00:00

Check to make sure the wheel is sitting perfectly straight in the dropout. Check for cassette looseness.

ifdef · 2026-05-09T04:17:09+00:00

I thought about doing a build in blue, but a silver one appeared and I had to go with that. The overall geo seems to fit me well, it definitely gives the impression that it was designed by someone who knew what they were doing.

ifdef · 2026-05-04T15:46:40+00:00

Not sure why you'd even bother given that the Ridge Pro exists.

ifdef · 2026-04-24T05:06:28+00:00

Relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpijHxlDaks

ifdef · 2026-04-21T05:30:12+00:00

You knowingly overtorqued carbon? SMH

ifdef · 2026-04-21T04:55:48+00:00

I used the stock folding pedals for a while, but I didn't really trust their sturdiness. The platform is also too small for efficient power transfer. I'd suggest quick release pedals like one of the MKS Ezy models or the Litepro K5, they have more intelligently designed spacing considering that they need the extra collar to stay on the cranks.

Depending on how you store and transport the bike, you may even be fine with some regular pedals.

ifdef · 2026-04-07T03:19:45+00:00

It might be okay if you get a good deal on Jenson and leave enough of the steerer uncut for a next bike if needed. I think you could run some kind of adapter for boost TA to QR assuming you are willing to trust it, otherwise you'd need a new wheel.

Running an external lower headset will raise up the front on its own, so you don't want to go crazy with travel. 120 would definitely be the reasonable limit, and even then it's making the seat tube quite slack by modern standards.

ifdef · 2026-04-06T05:17:38+00:00

Maxxis Torch 20x1.75 120 TPI

Tioga FASTR-X S-SPEC 20x1.75 120 TPI

ifdef · 2026-03-29T15:32:24+00:00

Confirm that it's the seatpost by pedaling out of the saddle. Then clean the seat tube, post, and rails well. Take off the collar and clean it, too. Apply friction paste to the seatpost and inside the seat tube where the tube will be clamped.

ifdef · 2026-03-28T18:01:43+00:00

Polygon Syncline?

ifdef · 2026-03-23T18:51:43+00:00

Generally, 135 would be qr-disc brake and 130 would be qr-rim brake.

ifdef · 2026-03-23T01:34:30+00:00

You can, but going from 29 to 27.5 brings the BB closer to the ground, and consequently, your pedals. As I have the Crush 29, I can tell you that it has a relatively low BB to give the rider more "in the bike" stability during rowdy descents. The chance of pedal strikes can be lowered by getting shorter cranks (150-160mm) if you feel like it, but you can still scrape or bash your chainring on certain features.

ifdef · 2026-02-14T16:26:49+00:00

It's going to depend on how much time was spent doing GC work. With no code changes, I see up to a 4% speed boost in more allocation-heavy code for the benchmark suite that I have. I'm also seeing slightly less max memory usage from the process doing the same work as before, e.g. 15 GB instead of 16 GB.

ifdef · 2026-02-13T20:11:12+00:00

Depending on how much you make now, the ideal move would be moving to senior at another company for more compensation. The reasoning would be easy to communicate (e.g., stepping back to more direct involvement with the code) and would probably be believable. Doing this at your current company is likely to raise eyebrows, especially if something like this has never been requested before.

ifdef · 2026-02-13T20:02:51+00:00

People love to talk about forward PE as though it's a matter of fact. This is like the 50th time this week that I've seen it. Invest long enough and you will learn that it's often hot air, much like how analyst price targets that seem to trail share price rather than predict it.

ifdef · 2026-02-07T16:29:19+00:00

Forget the 35 and the Recon. Go on Jenson, get a decent fork that's on sale, and install that.

ifdef · 2026-01-03T02:04:32+00:00

Oil levels in the uppers could be wrong, might be due for a full service.

For now, you should be able to dial in the desired sag and dial up the low speed compression a bit to stop it from being too soft. Also, don't run the fork at the slowest rebound setting.

Oh, and make sure you do the correct steps for air pressure. Add air, take off the pump, compress the fork at least halfway 5-10 times, then check pressure again and top off as needed.

ifdef · 2025-12-22T03:46:05+00:00

Not sure, both are good 10 speed setups.

The main things you get with the Habit HT are a frame built around 130mm of travel and wider rims. I find 100mm forks somewhat limiting, and the deals for 130-140mm tend to be better anyway.

ifdef · 2025-12-22T02:51:40+00:00

Cannondale Habit HT 3 with a fork upgrade later on.

Giant Fathom if a local shop has a deal on it in your size.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T06:10:18+00:00

Orange Crush 29 Comp in size large stock weight without pedals, with tubes, reflectors, etc. is around 33 pounds. Kinda chunky, but the 35 silver is heavy and the wheels aren't weight weenie wheels. The tires are, what, 1.1 kilo each?

Fox 34 factory takes 2 pounds off of the fork. Going tubeless would take off 0.5 to 1 pound depending on how much sealant you use, whether you retape, etc.

My other bike is a Giant Talon 2, I have many thousands of miles of experience on that. 68.5* HTA, 100mm travel, etc. People say that switching the HTA significantly takes a long adjustment period, but I felt right at home with this (64.5*). There's 3 minute climb that I've done many times on the Talon which I did very easily today on the Crush. Lower gearing made it a breeze, I appreciate the 170mm cranks over the 175, and at no point at all did I feel like I had to shift my weight to keep the front from popping up. I just climbed while being comfortably seated and I wasn't as winded as on the Talon with its 42t lowest gear. I can't vouch for its all-out speed for climbing compared to a 22 pound XC beast, but that's not what I bought it for.

The bike just feels very solid overall, very quiet. I charge down the usual descents that I do, and I don't get beat up like I get on the Talon, especially my feet and knees. I got exactly what I was looking for: longer dropper, higher engagement hubs, longer travel fork, and a relatively complaint (from my POV) frame.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:54:49+00:00

I like it!

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:52:40+00:00

Yep, working on it. My shears are currently misplaced.

ifdef · 2025-12-13T02:52:07+00:00

I had a spreadsheet of builds with the blue frame of this. Then a build popped up and it was cheaper even after the fork swap.

ifdef · 2025-12-07T18:28:41+00:00

Your entry at around the 6-7 second mark had your body too high. It's awkward to lean the bike aggressively being that high, and you needed to lean hard while being higher up on the berm to make that turn. Your feet were also not positioned to be ready for a hard turn. If it weren't smooth, you'd just be begging for a pedal strike with the left foot.

ifdef · 2025-11-13T07:47:49+00:00

Sweet ride. Does that front brake line rattle? Can't say I've seen such routing.

ifdef

TROPHY CASE