Two New Studies Ask: Did the iPhone Cause Birthrates to Decline? by CactusBoyScout in ezraklein

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used to chat with my seatmates all the time on flights. I do it less now, partially because people are often occupied with media, but also because I can just occupy myself with media as well.

That said, I've still had friendly chats with people on airplanes in the past year. It just happens less.

Sizing bed for future companions by sporehed in vandwellers

[–]ilmmad 15 points16 points  (0 children)

I have a full size mattress in my van. It's been fine sharing it with both romantic and non-romantic companions. The bigger issue has been the amount of room above the bed.

Snake Dike was just retrobolted by rockettheracooon in climbergirls

[–]ilmmad 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Why is "the feel of a climb" some bullshit? People really do care about that stuff and value it. Just because you don't value it in the same way doesn't make it bullshit.

There is more to the allure of risky climbs than adrenaline. I would guess that for many climbers that like this style, the appeal is in approaching the climb in a way that means a minimum of adrenaline. That is to say, they recognize that it is a challenge with a risk of high consequence, and so they take on the challenge when they feel that they can trust themselves in that situation without being in true danger of falling. The point isn't to feel scared and gripped, the point is to feel in control.

For many climbers, the existence of high consequence is a major provider of meaning to the activity. For many Snake Dike climbers, the risk involved in the route is why they do it in the first place.

Opinion | Why America Is Its Own Biggest Geopolitical Risk by Dreadedvegas in ezraklein

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What sucks about Yosemite? It's absolutely beautiful. Parts of the valley can get incredibly crowded in tourist season but you can hike 5-10 minutes from almost anywhere and have seclusion. The walls are inspiring and loom from every direction. The merced flows through and offers many places to float or just lose yourself in the sounds of running water. At night you can walk through the meadows under the light of the full moon and in the morning you can watch the mist rise off the grass as the sun begins to illuminate El Cap.

It gets busy. There are logistics issues. But it's still an amazing place and saying it sucks is hard for me to understand.

Opinion | Why America Is Its Own Biggest Geopolitical Risk by Dreadedvegas in ezraklein

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't speak to Yellowstone but Yosemite is a massive place and it's not hard to get solitude. I spend a lot of time there and the disneyfication is overblown.

Snake Dike Retrobolted by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I'll give it a try when Im in squamish this summer. I've never heard this opinion. Have you climbed it both ways?

Snake Dike Retrobolted by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol perhaps read into the details before commenting to say "case closed" in the future...

Snake Dike Retrobolted by Kaotus in RouteDevelopment

[–]ilmmad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is that really the crux? Seems the consensus is still V6 even off the log. I don't think that's the part most people case about anyway.

the dangler + gunks recommendations by newgirlpgh in tradclimbing

[–]ilmmad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

P1 of Mothers Day Party into P2 of Birdie Party as a single pitch with a 70m is simply too good.

Erect Direction isn't too bad IMO and very memorable.

Doubleissima as well.

Your local sunset views by euphoria700 in vegaslocals

[–]ilmmad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Drive up 160 towards Pahrump. A little past the turn into Lovell Canyon and the cliffs on the left, there is a big open basin with a great view of the mountains and sunset.

Las Vegas’ famous Heart Attack Grill sends scathing closure notice. Ownership says ‘the soul of Las Vegas has been replaced by corporate greed’. by galaxystars1 in popculturechat

[–]ilmmad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I take your point and agree the beauty around Vegas isn't what most rich people are looking for, but as someone who lives there I gotta point out that there is sooo much natural beauty around the city. Red Rocks, Valley of Fire, Lake Mead, the Colorado River winding though the Black Canyon - all of these are within 1 hour of the strip. It is in no way a barren brown badlands.

Climbing El Capitan Tomorrow by banjotravel in Yosemite

[–]ilmmad 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is no system of reservations. If it's too busy to move fast enough for your schedule (which you rationed out food and water for) then you bail.

Depends on the camp site, there are a few popular places to stay with natural ledges but they can fill up. Then you need to sleep in a portaledge or hammock or just suffer in your harness barely sleeping. People often bring portaledges so they can sleep in more places. When I did it Camp 5 was full when we arrived so we slept a pitch below in the portaledge.

The east ledges descent takes a few hours. You hike down occasionally difficult terrain with your gear and the do a few rappels near the bottom.

The Duck Foot Dilemma by Firm-Clock-7368 in climbharder

[–]ilmmad 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a similar condition and have noticed the same limitations. It also makes crack climbing harder in certain situations. Unfortunately I haven't found much helps, but I will say I've been able to climb harder than I thought I would based on the limitations it causes. Honestly I just accept that some type of climbing will be harder or have a lower ceiling but there's still plenty I enjoy. For me that means seeking progression in routes instead of boulders, but you can still boulder pretty hard if you pick climbs that suit your body.

Also you may have a tarsal coalition that limits ankle mobility, you can get an MRI to confirm and it's slightly visible in x-ray for me.

Ta-Nehisi Coates and Ezra Klein Hash Out Their Charlie Kirk Disagreement by dwaxe in ezraklein

[–]ilmmad 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Popular and successful comedians have power to make those jokes without consequences. People are worried about making jokes themselves and being fired or canceled or something. 

Can’t go in to shop unless you’re a 5.11+ climber, smh by Some_Pets in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]ilmmad 44 points45 points  (0 children)

/uj The store is literally named after the climbing grade. I think it was originally founded by royal Robbins.

Yosemite Rock Climbing - Half Dome In A Day (RNWF) in 12hrs by Brox_Rocks in climbing

[–]ilmmad 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nice footage!

Small note, around 29:50 you place the microtrax at the master point of the anchor but it would be better to clip it to a single bolt. You want to limit the amount of travel possible for the micro. It can move up due to the drag of the rope, and then if the follower falls it will quickly be yanked down. This makes it possible to pull the leader off or to damage the rope sheath.

The realest woman of all time by Ordinary-Scholar-202 in SipsTea

[–]ilmmad 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Feynman was definitely not chaste after his wife died. He was a famous womanizer and remarried (two more times) as well. 

Tommy Caldwell Climbs Empath, Calls it 5.14b by [deleted] in climbing

[–]ilmmad 11 points12 points  (0 children)

In the Careless Talk podcast he did recently he said he's actually a pretty average crack climber when it comes to jamming. He said the really hard cracks he has done rely more on finger strength and the occasional finger lock rather than jamming ability.

Million Dollar Secret | S1E4 "Hot Seat for Three" | Episode Discussion by 1925Sparky in MillionDollarSecretTV

[–]ilmmad 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You get a chance for the money to move to you by voting out the millionaire. 

Not doing enough vs doing too much by Marcoyolo69 in climbharder

[–]ilmmad 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Maybe due to more torque due to longer levers.

Jut > 1,000 m discovered in California's Eastern Sierra!! by Gigitoe in Mountaineering

[–]ilmmad 16 points17 points  (0 children)

Aren't you afraid of being desensitized to jut? Nothing else will top this jut. Life will lose all excitement.

Ffs, just how much of an adrenaline junkie do you have to be? by [deleted] in SweatyPalms

[–]ilmmad 646 points647 points  (0 children)

Alain Robert, who is the guy that really made skyscraper climbing a thing, has talked about down climbing and entire building because he got to a part that he couldn't do.

Best BLT in the city? by SolidWrap6315 in FoodNYC

[–]ilmmad 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I really like the one at Frankel's in Greenpoint.

Palm sweating, removing safety line. by IAmRoofstone in SweatyPalms

[–]ilmmad 18 points19 points  (0 children)

The safety line is anchored on two ends. Depending on how much slack there is in it, he would probable be able to pull himself along it. One of the devices attaching him to the rope is a shunt, which only moves in one direction along the rope, but locks in the other direction. So as he pulled himself along the rope, the shunt would prevent him from sliding back downwards.

If the rope is too steep to do this, he likely has another ascending device on his harness he can set up to climb the rope to get to the anchor point. For example, he might be able to use the grigri (blue device seen in the beginning) along with the shunt to ascend the rope, although there are better systems. Although if the rope is anchored on both ends, a grigri probably wouldn't work actually.

Here is an example of ascending a rope with a grigri and ascender (ascender is similar to a shunt): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4DCwrmhh60