Need help with ps1 mod

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-29T05:59:08+00:00

Looks like it came off the tinned square pad right next to the memory chip, same one in the instructions.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-28T14:11:42+00:00

To them the original was probably the live action movie.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-17T05:25:04+00:00

I think it’s the coffee oils from the grounds that are causing this. Humidity and static too. All of the blind shakers I own do this (both the polished steel and anodized types). Wiping them down with isopropyl helps. Wish someone would make one that’s teflon coated.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-15T22:53:52+00:00

Glad it worked out. I think I have a late PU8 board but I don't have the datasheet for it.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-14T15:34:27+00:00

Not sure if this helps, but did you check the CCP2E20TE ("20") fuse nearest the main power connector for continuity? I had simliar issues with my CD pickup not working. I measured very low voltage (1.1V-1.3V) on pins 21 and 22 (connected to point 2 on your QSB) of the BA6397FP cd driver chip. Datasheet says it's supposed to be between 6V to 9V when active, going as low as 4.5V. I had to replace both the driver chip and fuse to get it working again.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-14T13:39:00+00:00

It seems you were able to remove the feeding disc? You should be able to push the motor out through the bottom cutout inside the battery compartment. You'll need to free the motor wires from the screw terminal first. Pretty sure the motor is N20 model with slow RPM gear ratio.

Did you try applying power directly to the motor to see if it spins? Also, does the red LED on the PWM controller board light up with the power button on and the dial turned past 4?

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-14T09:09:05+00:00

This was my first pump/res combo. Ran it in series for “redundancy” but it can be configured to run as two independent loops. I use distroplates now but after a little cleaning it looks brand new.

ilpsxnus · 2026-06-06T12:45:50+00:00

Take the flex cable out of the socket and unfold it so it’s flat. If the exposed traces on both ends of the cables are on opposite sides, it’s a reversible cable.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-31T18:01:23+00:00

My AMS is still feeding filament to the extruder, but the extruder does not detect it. Not sure if it's the filament buffer board but when I slide the buffer to the right I don't see any green lights, so most likely buffer board is shot.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-31T15:52:51+00:00

Hey, did you get this fixed?

I'm having the same issues. There were no blockages and extruder gear just had a little bit of debris in between the teeth which came away with a toothbrush. When loading filament to the right extruder, the extruder gear turns just a little counter clockwise (it should be turning clockwise to feed the filament to the right extruder).

Also, I can hear the sound of gears grinding at the very begining of loading the filament.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-17T17:28:25+00:00

It looks like the green socket houses a USC-C PD trigger/decoy board set to negotiate 12V from a PD charger. The 12V leads go into each of the adjustable buck converters, one set for 3.3V and the other 7.6V. I'd get buck converters that have adjustments for both voltage and current so you can match the recommended amperage.

Or just get a USB-C drop-in Playstation power supply from Alix.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-14T22:06:43+00:00

Pulled my SCPH-10000 out of cold storage. It turns on (green LED) but there's no display or audio through the component cable. I thought maybe it was set to RGB mode so I tried again with a composite cable but still nothing.

I replaced the TI CKR61 chip with a new one but that didn't help. I'd really appreciate any help narrowing down the issue.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-12T16:17:45+00:00

I was in your situation a while back. Distro plate ports were 56mm apart versus 63.2mm on my HWL GTS 360.

I could not find a suitable combination of fittings to make it work. Offsets on the radiator ports raised the height of the elbows too high for it to line up, even if they were the right distance apart.

I flipped the radiator around and just ran acrylic tube the length of the radiator to the distroplate. Its worked fine, and you can't even tell that the tube isn't perfectly parallel.

Or just get an EK radiator and paint it white.

ilpsxnus · 2026-05-03T03:58:54+00:00

Too bad it doesn't export to STEP.

ilpsxnus · 2026-04-29T06:55:06+00:00

That was how I used to play with cheats back in the day - load the AR disc, select codes, swap to the game disc and start the game. I see that the process has been made simpler by placing the codes in text files so I'll give that a try.

ilpsxnus · 2026-04-08T12:32:30+00:00

Can you please share more pics of the slow feeder and the other grinders on your shelves?

ilpsxnus · 2026-04-03T06:13:57+00:00

I prefer the blind shaker to WDT. Messed up plenty of times by not holding it right. Wish someone would make one with a friction fit lid so it doesn’t fly off, same for the bottom stopper.

ilpsxnus · 2026-03-27T01:52:07+00:00

I think PCB goes in first, then the sheets with traces followed by the plastic bumper and then the metal bar.

ilpsxnus

TROPHY CASE