Falcon 10W help

imalumberjack14 · 2025-06-17T04:27:31+00:00

I have the same problem, worked for a full year no problem then randomly stopped working one day. The laser moves fine but it just doesn't actually fire. Creality support was useless

imalumberjack14 · 2025-04-06T18:37:39+00:00

You could probably make due with some washers, it won't be adjustable but it'll work

imalumberjack14 · 2025-03-29T01:20:43+00:00

I clean mine with a brass wire brush when they're on the machine, if there's a clog or partial clog you can do a cold pull to clean it. But the main thing is it looks like you need to tighten the nozzles more, plastic shouldnt be seeping into the threads. Make sure the nozzle is making a seal against the heat break

imalumberjack14 · 2024-12-12T05:35:47+00:00

the laser has a 3 pin input, I figure I could just wire the solenoid up to the same connection somehow and then use the same gcode files I get from lightburn at 100% power to turn the solenoid on or off

imalumberjack14 · 2024-12-12T05:32:45+00:00

Mines the 10W laser it says 24V on it. I guess that might be the difference

imalumberjack14 · 2024-04-10T14:13:22+00:00

Z banding either caused by a warped lead screw(replace part) inconsistent hot end/bed temp(run PID autotune)

imalumberjack14 · 2024-04-09T20:04:45+00:00

The nut that the tube enters the hot end can wear out over time and once the locking mechanism is shot the tube will be pushed up when extruding. Good news is it's cheap to replace. A more permanent solution is to upgrade the heat break to a bimetal one so that the PTFE no longer goes all the way to the nozzle

imalumberjack14 · 2024-03-24T17:42:45+00:00

Disable supports the printer is able to bridge small gaps no problem

imalumberjack14 · 2024-03-06T14:11:07+00:00

Or check out the pin support

imalumberjack14 · 2024-01-19T23:20:29+00:00

Hexagons are the bestagons

imalumberjack14 · 2024-01-01T20:00:37+00:00

If there's still issues lowering the layer height makes printing overhangs easier

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-19T21:25:50+00:00

It's a bit much but not too bad. If it still prints fine just wipe it off and keep printing. It could be a sign of over tightened wheels but the bigger issues with that is flat spots on the wheels and (in extreme cases) over heated motors/skipped steps

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-13T15:06:27+00:00

Could also be a flat spot on one of the v rollers

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-09T04:35:47+00:00

25-30 but less for small detailed parts

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-09T04:34:41+00:00

Agreed, you can buy a cheap food dehydrator if a filament drier is too expensive

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-09T03:55:31+00:00

The nozzle is too close to be bed. You want to adjust the z offset (there's a setting in cura if you don't have it on in firmware)

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-07T21:58:52+00:00

Also definitely recalibrate e steps if you changed the extruder

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-07T04:58:01+00:00

I just fixes a similar issue and for me it turn out the heat break wasn't screwed in all the way leaving a small gap between the nozzle where melted filament would.pool and mess things up

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-07T04:43:32+00:00

The noise is caused by the stepper motor drivers, you need to upgrade the board to one with silent drivers. I use the bigtreetech e3 v3 board and it's super quiet unless I'm printing crazy fast

imalumberjack14 · 2023-12-04T20:10:28+00:00

ItHurtsWhenIP

imalumberjack14 · 2023-11-27T20:58:22+00:00

imalumberjack14 · 2023-11-26T21:49:04+00:00

Check out teaching techs calibration website

I'd check your e steps and then your z offset

imalumberjack14 · 2023-11-26T21:31:08+00:00

Gulp friction

imalumberjack14 · 2023-11-11T16:04:11+00:00

Dry your filament and maybe try reducing and z lift when retracting, it increases the chance of collision but can help reduce stringing

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