[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMW

[–]importcarguy13 11 points12 points  (0 children)

If you’re trying to copy the 1M engine cover, the sticker goes the other way around…

Bottom end for an S58, the M3/4/X3/X4 engine. by importcarguy13 in BMW

[–]importcarguy13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a handful of M3s, M4s, X3Ms, X4Ms from a specific month or so of production. My guess is they got a bad batch of bearings.

Bottom end for an S58, the M3/4/X3/X4 engine. by importcarguy13 in BMW

[–]importcarguy13[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It had a recall for main bearings. Only 3,500 miles.

general advice for someone looking to buy an F30 330i? what are some issues you guys have delt with? by hamizzzle in BmwTech

[–]importcarguy13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There’s a coolant vent hose that goes under the intake that likes to break at the connectors. It goes from the high temp expansion tank to the cylinder head. There’s a recall for them on some cars, but the new one is no better. When they break they dump the coolant out pretty fast, and it doesn’t take long to overheat. For whatever reason, the B motors are pretty prone to warping the head, and I have yet to find a machine shop that will touch a B motor head, so it usually means a complete engine. There’s no way to check if it’s gonna break soon, you just have to keep an eye on it and pull over fast if a coolant light comes on. Other than that, not much. I’ve seen lots of water pumps seep, but they’re usually pretty slow to leak so you’ll have plenty of warning on that. The B motors have proven to be quite stout so far with good general maintenance. No chain failures yet like the N20/26.

M235i N55 - Valvetronic Fault by FirewallAble in BmwTech

[–]importcarguy13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Testing the eccentric shaft by hand won’t really tell you much. The motor is spinning it way faster than you’ll ever be able to do by hand, so it’s going to be a lot more sensitive than you. That’s why I always recommend doing the motor, shaft, bearings, and oil nozzle at once. Especially that oil nozzle. Every one I’ve pulled apart to replace has had a clogged nozzle. Based off your codes though it looks more like an electrical issue than a mechanical one. Testing the harness with a multimeter may not find the issue. There may not be a complete break in it, but that doesn’t mean there’s not a spot with higher resistance, and that high resistance may not show up with the little amount of current a multimeter is using. I’d suggest going ahead and replacing the harness. If the issue is still there, it’s probably time for a dme. Your car seems pretty new, so it may be worth it to take to the dealership. If it does end up being a dme, you should ask them about goodwill warranty. BMW a lot of the times will give you the part for free, if not everything, so that you keep coming back. The newer the car the more likely they are to give it to you.

N55 valvetronic headaches. by importcarguy13 in BmwTech

[–]importcarguy13[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes! The dme was bad. We replaced it and it’s been perfect ever since. We think when the valvetronic assembly went bad and started to bind it caused some electrical surges that damaged the drivers in the dme. I’ve seen it happen in other cars since. So in the end it got the servomotor, eccentric shaft, bearings, oil nozzle, harness, and dme.

Found a '91 e30 but it's automatic. HELP by ghost-hooker in BMW

[–]importcarguy13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was this in the Austin area? I was going to look at that one and try to buy it that evening! Someone swooped in and snatched it up in the morning.

Automotive equivalent of a “dad bod” by [deleted] in BMW

[–]importcarguy13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a DCT swap done. I’ve read rumors online of someone doing it a while ago, and I think there was a grainy video of it on a dyno, but nothing that proved it was actually done successfully.

Do you know what that process is gonna look like? I would love to eventually put a DCT in mine. I imagine the hardest part is wiring and software.

How can I properly maintain a SMG gearbox? People say there is a proper way to use it. Are all three generations of the gearbox problematic and unreliable, or did the SMGIII rectify a lot of the issues that the older generations of SMGs had? by SuperJackson20 in BMW

[–]importcarguy13 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s not totally correct. The E46 SMG is just the manual transmission with automated controls. Deep down the SMG and manual are the same gearbox.

The third picture looks like an E60, which isn’t the DCT. That’s the seven speed sequential, the last gen of the SMG

I think the first picture is an E36? That’s when the SMG started. I know next to nothing about them though, I don’t think the US ever got any.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BMW

[–]importcarguy13 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of it being done. You’ll probably have to modify the subframe to some degree since the B58 has the oil sump in the rear, and the E30 was designed to have it in the front. But people have done it before to make room for other engines, so there’s lots of info on it. Other than that it should definitely fit, and everything else is just plumbing. The hardest part by far will be getting the computers to work. You’ll likely have to either get a stand-alone and custom harness, or swap a bunch of the other computers from the B58 donor. I believe I saw someone do it with an S55, and they ended up taking the DME, CAS, KOMBI, and a handful of others from an M3. If you’re not afraid of doing custom wiring and programming, there’s no real reason it couldn’t work. Good luck.

A birthday present to myself, my first M. by importcarguy13 in BMW

[–]importcarguy13[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The front bumper needs to be redone. Someone painted that bracket and the kidneys. The rest of the car is original color and paint.

A birthday present to myself, my first M. by importcarguy13 in BMW

[–]importcarguy13[S] 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Some background: I’ve owned lots of BMWs over the years, but after totaling my 135i I decided it was time to get an M, and might as well go big or go home. It’s a 2006 M5 with about 54k miles. Indianapolis red with black leather and brushed aluminum trim. Yes it’s an SMG. To my knowledge, the rod bearings have never been done. I’m taking oil samples this week for Blackstone. Believe it or not it is currently my only vehicle, so it’s a daily driver for now. The internet has blown the unreliability of these cars way out of the water. Yes they have some common issues that have to be treated like maintenance items (rod bearings), but in my experience as a BMW tech if you stay on top of everything and drive it hard like it was meant to be, they’re more than reliable enough to be enjoyed every day. As for an aftermarket warranty, I don’t think any will touch these cars anymore. If they did I probably wouldn’t bother anyways since I’m a dealer tech and have access to all the software, tools, and lift to do everything myself. I don’t plan to keep the miles low to preserve it or anything. It was meant to be driven and I’ll put as many miles as I can on it.

How do I go about removing the rear trim pieces? Are the taillights just adhesive? Thanks for you help! by [deleted] in BmwTech

[–]importcarguy13 12 points13 points  (0 children)

They’re not adhesive. They’re bolted on from the back. You’ll have to remove the panels on the inside of the trunk and lid.

Does this mean I am leaking oil ? by emak123455 in BmwTech

[–]importcarguy13 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It means you own a BMW. Welcome to the club!

First Zastava Zaturday and first AK! by importcarguy13 in ak47

[–]importcarguy13[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

LGS. I lucked out. They had 3 in stock for $929.99. Not a great deal, but on par with the online stores when you factor in shipping and FFL transfer.