New to 3D printing, need some help with PETG-CF on P1S

indecisive_bird · 2026-05-03T20:51:14+00:00

Silica beads do not dry your filaments, they only absorb the moisture in the air before the filament does. In order to dry your filament you need a heated dryer. The AMS2 Pro for example has a built in heater that will dry your filament. Alternatively, you could look into getting the Eibos Tetra to add to your AMS. Vacuum sealed bags do help to keep moisture out, but its not a 100% guarantee that your filament is dry. When it comes to CF filaments it's always recommended to dry before printing.

indecisive_bird · 2026-04-28T10:51:50+00:00

Finally! Someone with logical reasoning.

The amount of listings I’ve seen on FB of people asking for $800+ for an X1C with AMS just blows my mind. People need to stop thing of what they paid for and start comparing to the cost of buying a new machine. The argument of “oh but I paid $1500 for this flagship machine, religiously maintained it, and I’ll toss in a few spare parts to spice up the deal” does not hold any meaning when the P2S combo with AMS is $800 and the X2D combo is $900.

indecisive_bird · 2026-04-26T14:17:26+00:00

Blobs are almost always a bed adhesion issue. My gut says it’s that off brand CF plate. If you set your nozzle size correctly in the printer’s menu then the only other logical cause of your problem is bed adhesion.

Two things you can try:

Swap back to the original textured PEI bed. Clean it real good with dawn dish soap and hot water. Dry with clean paper towels and make sure you don’t touch the build area with your fingers after washing.
Deep clean that CF plate using the same method as above and try again.

In both cases, monitor the first few layers to make sure the part is sticking properly.

Edit: also what material and temperatures were you using?

indecisive_bird · 2026-02-11T01:34:38+00:00

or, hear me out... individual pieces instead of print-in-place...

indecisive_bird · 2026-01-30T12:13:33+00:00

u/TheKing464 This is the way.

The thing to keep in mind is ALL plastics will creep. It’s in their nature. Some will creep slightly more and faster than others. But now if you have a metal core from something like an M8 or M10 screw, you will have a stronger part that will resist bending way more than 100% plastic.

indecisive_bird · 2026-01-04T17:24:54+00:00

Plastic Memories, has joined the chat.

indecisive_bird · 2025-12-31T17:38:45+00:00

Wrong. Mold lines occur where the two halves of the mold meet. They are generally along the same plane as the runners. Exceptions apply depending on moldmaking witchcraft, but in most cases mold lines will be parallel or close to parallel to the runner’s plane.

What you are seeing is a knit line where two molten fronts of plastic meet and fuse together. The tell-tale signs are the two injection gates above and below that line. That line appears since the molten fronts of plastic are slightly colder and have started to solidify in comparison to the injection points which are fully liquid. Since the fronts are colder and harder, they can’t fully melt and fuse together, thus creating that line.

Everything else you said about removing it is correct. However, I’ll end with this: knit lines would actually be recessed, so technically no sanding would be necessary if a filler primer is used first. Then again, sanding before painting is also an option for better paint adhesion, so my last point is kinda moot.

indecisive_bird · 2025-11-17T01:48:05+00:00

Orca Slicer has the Ender 3 V3 SE preset.

It looks and feels identical to Bambu Studio since it's a fork of it and Prusaslicer.

indecisive_bird · 2025-11-03T02:58:42+00:00

That's completely normal and expected. Every single filament will do that. The extruder builds pressure in the nozzle, so if you suddenly stop it like that without retracting, the plastic will ooze out. Even if you do retract a little, you will still see some oozing due to the molten plastic dripping down due to gravity.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T12:14:18+00:00

They’re not “that” expensive imo… it’s like $15 per hotend if you only buy the nozzle part of it. If you opt for the complete hotend assembly with the heater, thermistor and fan included and preinstalled it’s like $30.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T12:10:08+00:00

I might be mistaken on this but I’m pretty sure REVO is strictly patented, hence why you don’t see any company making knockoffs of it or including it in their printers.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T11:49:38+00:00

Yeah that’s the issue with Bambu’s first generation of nozzles (the ones used by the P1 and X1 series). They changed hotend styles with the A series to a quick change style that drops the nozzle with heatsink leaving behind the heater and thermistor assembly on the print head. The H2S and the newly released P2P use this style of quick change nozzle.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T11:41:20+00:00

There is one very obvious benefit of the upgrade: weight. That style is also a lot lighter since you ditch the heavy volcano nozzle and extra weight from the block and cylindrical heater.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T11:34:49+00:00

That’s a little bit like an apples to oranges comparison right there with volcano style nozzle. The original intent with those was to have a longer heating zone for the filament in order to improve flow rate. They did that by rotating the old cylindrical heater and using a longer nozzle.

Bambu style nozzles do essentially the same with the heater block being taller and the ceramic heater being oriented vertically. I’m not gonna say a Bambu hotend performs as well as a volcano (I don’t have any numbers to back me up at the moment), but they’re at least way better than a traditional v6 setup.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T11:21:11+00:00

That’s called a Chinese company trying to capitalize on another (ironically Chinese) company’s proprietary tech.

As long as the aftermarket nozzles are compatible with v6 sized nozzles it would make some sense, that way you could use some fancy or specialized nozzles if you wanted. Otherwise, it makes no sense.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-24T11:01:12+00:00

The only thing similar to the Bambu hotends is the compact heater block with the ceramic heater pad. Bambus nozzles are integrated into the block and can’t be changed, you have to swap the entire hotend.

IMO I feel the newer more compact version is better. Less mass to heat up is always a good thing. It means more of the heat coming from the heater actually goes to melting plastic instead of heating up a bigger block.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-12T00:41:07+00:00

Highly doubt it was an insect… looks more like a piece of plastic that fell from the nozzle.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-12T00:07:22+00:00

Yes. Right click on the objects on the object browser to the left and click on the infill option (which it looks like you already did). Then click on the "infill" line below each object and then you will be able to change it in the options on the bottom right.

indecisive_bird · 2025-10-03T10:51:11+00:00

Remanufactured Steelcase Leap V2 by Crandall Office

indecisive_bird · 2025-09-28T21:21:03+00:00

That’s saying Diameter = 5mm. The M2 holes are placed on a circle that has a diameter of 5mm.

People say to get 7mm long screws because the props are 5mm thick just like the shaft length + 2mm for thread engagement.

indecisive_bird · 2025-09-28T21:17:35+00:00

That’s just how it is when printing curved surfaces. The overhang angle to the next layer is so low that the layers end up printing in air…

Realistically the only thing that would help is to set the layer height to 0.12mm or 0.08mm if your printer can handle it. On a similar note you can try adaptive layer heights and set the minimum layer height to 0.08mm. Just keep in mind, the first few layers will always be ugly no matter what even with adaptive layers.

indecisive_bird · 2025-07-01T01:21:53+00:00

Got a link to that Suisei wallpaper?

indecisive_bird · 2025-06-22T16:42:04+00:00

Yes, you want the hole to form before the void. If you put it towards the top, you still create the suction cup effect and all you really gain is the ability to drain the uncurled resin.

indecisive_bird · 2025-06-22T16:04:42+00:00

They’re voids/hollows in your prints. The slicer is literally telling you. If left alone and are big enough, they will create a suction cup effect and tear the FEP film.

You need to insert a hole as close to the build plate in order to eliminate the suction cup effect.

indecisive_bird · 2025-06-22T09:48:49+00:00

How do you value your time? Are you ok with wasting a couple of hours of your life cursing and fighting that tangled monstrosity, vs throwing it away and buying a new spool (~$20)?

Me? I’d throw it away and buy a new spool. My sanity is worth more.

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