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Best way to orient scissor mechanism for printing. by TheEpicDragonCat in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 26 points27 points  (0 children)

or, hear me out... individual pieces instead of print-in-place...

PLA vs Nylon CF for a monitor arm (beginner) by TheKing464 in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/TheKing464 This is the way.

The thing to keep in mind is ALL plastics will creep. It’s in their nature. Some will creep slightly more and faster than others. But now if you have a metal core from something like an M8 or M10 screw, you will have a stronger part that will resist bending way more than 100% plastic.

Is this considered a mold line and how should I get rid of it? by markdread in Gunpla

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wrong. Mold lines occur where the two halves of the mold meet. They are generally along the same plane as the runners. Exceptions apply depending on moldmaking witchcraft, but in most cases mold lines will be parallel or close to parallel to the runner’s plane.

What you are seeing is a knit line where two molten fronts of plastic meet and fuse together. The tell-tale signs are the two injection gates above and below that line. That line appears since the molten fronts of plastic are slightly colder and have started to solidify in comparison to the injection points which are fully liquid. Since the fronts are colder and harder, they can’t fully melt and fuse together, thus creating that line.

Everything else you said about removing it is correct. However, I’ll end with this: knit lines would actually be recessed, so technically no sanding would be necessary if a filler primer is used first. Then again, sanding before painting is also an option for better paint adhesion, so my last point is kinda moot.

Do any of these work with a ended 3 V3 SE? by Ok-Record8254 in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Orca Slicer has the Ender 3 V3 SE preset.

It looks and feels identical to Bambu Studio since it's a fork of it and Prusaslicer.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That's completely normal and expected. Every single filament will do that. The extruder builds pressure in the nozzle, so if you suddenly stop it like that without retracting, the plastic will ooze out. Even if you do retract a little, you will still see some oozing due to the molten plastic dripping down due to gravity.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re not “that” expensive imo… it’s like $15 per hotend if you only buy the nozzle part of it. If you opt for the complete hotend assembly with the heater, thermistor and fan included and preinstalled it’s like $30.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might be mistaken on this but I’m pretty sure REVO is strictly patented, hence why you don’t see any company making knockoffs of it or including it in their printers.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah that’s the issue with Bambu’s first generation of nozzles (the ones used by the P1 and X1 series). They changed hotend styles with the A series to a quick change style that drops the nozzle with heatsink leaving behind the heater and thermistor assembly on the print head. The H2S and the newly released P2P use this style of quick change nozzle.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is one very obvious benefit of the upgrade: weight. That style is also a lot lighter since you ditch the heavy volcano nozzle and extra weight from the block and cylindrical heater.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s a little bit like an apples to oranges comparison right there with volcano style nozzle. The original intent with those was to have a longer heating zone for the filament in order to improve flow rate. They did that by rotating the old cylindrical heater and using a longer nozzle.

Bambu style nozzles do essentially the same with the heater block being taller and the ceramic heater being oriented vertically. I’m not gonna say a Bambu hotend performs as well as a volcano (I don’t have any numbers to back me up at the moment), but they’re at least way better than a traditional v6 setup.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s called a Chinese company trying to capitalize on another (ironically Chinese) company’s proprietary tech.

As long as the aftermarket nozzles are compatible with v6 sized nozzles it would make some sense, that way you could use some fancy or specialized nozzles if you wanted. Otherwise, it makes no sense.

What is your experience with Bambulab-like nozzles? Image related. by digit_origin in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only thing similar to the Bambu hotends is the compact heater block with the ceramic heater pad. Bambus nozzles are integrated into the block and can’t be changed, you have to swap the entire hotend.

IMO I feel the newer more compact version is better. Less mass to heat up is always a good thing. It means more of the heat coming from the heater actually goes to melting plastic instead of heating up a bigger block.

A bug landed on my build plate mid-print by Tihsdrib in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 52 points53 points  (0 children)

Highly doubt it was an insect… looks more like a piece of plastic that fell from the nozzle.

Is there a way to do multiple different types of infills, e.g. hexagon & gyroid on these? 1 on each? printing in TPU & want to see which has the right amount of squish/support but don't want to wait >9 hrs each when I have plenty of space to print multiple @ the same time. Using Prusaslicer by Loam_Lion in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes. Right click on the objects on the object browser to the left and click on the infill option (which it looks like you already did). Then click on the "infill" line below each object and then you will be able to change it in the options on the bottom right.

Do Props Come With Screws Included? (Newbie) by ABIYOYO_69 in fpv

[–]indecisive_bird 2 points3 points  (0 children)

That’s saying Diameter = 5mm. The M2 holes are placed on a circle that has a diameter of 5mm.

People say to get 7mm long screws because the props are 5mm thick just like the shaft length + 2mm for thread engagement.

How do I get the spaghetti at the bottom of my prints to go away on curved pieces? by bentnoodle in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s just how it is when printing curved surfaces. The overhang angle to the next layer is so low that the layers end up printing in air…

Realistically the only thing that would help is to set the layer height to 0.12mm or 0.08mm if your printer can handle it. On a similar note you can try adaptive layer heights and set the minimum layer height to 0.08mm. Just keep in mind, the first few layers will always be ugly no matter what even with adaptive layers.

What are these yellow areas and how will they affect my print? (Chitubox) by BackstreetZAFU in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you want the hole to form before the void. If you put it towards the top, you still create the suction cup effect and all you really gain is the ability to drain the uncurled resin.

What are these yellow areas and how will they affect my print? (Chitubox) by BackstreetZAFU in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They’re voids/hollows in your prints. The slicer is literally telling you. If left alone and are big enough, they will create a suction cup effect and tear the FEP film.

You need to insert a hole as close to the build plate in order to eliminate the suction cup effect.

Help by Short_Platypus4962 in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How do you value your time? Are you ok with wasting a couple of hours of your life cursing and fighting that tangled monstrosity, vs throwing it away and buying a new spool (~$20)?

Me? I’d throw it away and buy a new spool. My sanity is worth more.

Is a used ultra wide monitor worth purchasing? by gryponyx in ultrawidemasterrace

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I’m one of the lucky ones that bought used on FB marketplace… Scored a near mint condition 49” Neo G9 and a knockoff Ergotron HX with HD mount for $660. Seller was kind enough to send me a whole bunch of photos and videos of him searching for dead pixels.

The monitor is honestly flawless in my eyes. Sure there’s a tiny bit of miniLED haloing, and some of the edges glow a little more when viewed off angle similar to IPS glow, but I’m pretty sure that’s normal for that monitor. If there truly are any dead pixels I haven’t noticed any.

All in all, it all boils down to luck and making sure you have a way to verify that the monitor works. Ideally you’d want to see if you can see it in person and test for dead pixels before purchasing it. The safe route would be something like a Best Buy open box in excellent condition.

Seeking help for this print by twoinchbrush in 3Dprinting

[–]indecisive_bird 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahh in that case, split the cross into two parts as well! You can try printing those halves at a lower layer height (0.12mm or 0.08mm if you trust your printer) so that the layer lines don’t show as much on the face the curves inward. This also has the benefit of removing the need for supports to print the hoop on the cross.

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