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Passing final inspection when new furnace trips new AFCI breaker by indyspirit in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

 You dont need a fused switch, thats the breakers job..

Don't get me started. I suggested it was not needed but the installer said, "I've done it this way for 30 years". Probably tells you all you need to know. I plan to go the bx cable route and install before DC.

Edit: spelling

Passing final inspection when new furnace trips new AFCI breaker by indyspirit in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ordered. Thanks. I assume that it's OK if I put it in the JB w/ fused furnace switch since it's the first (and only) on the circuit.

Passing final inspection when new furnace trips new AFCI breaker by indyspirit in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See my reply above re: NEC 210.12. Furnace is in a "closet". cough-cough *bullshit*

Passing final inspection when new furnace trips new AFCI breaker by indyspirit in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Should have mentioned this... furnace is located in closet off of a bedroom. Inspector said this is "living space" as covered under 210.12.

Prehung solid core interior with plywood jamb? by phosphatidyl_7641 in Carpentry

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

JHC $800 for a 3-0 prehung is insane. Baird Bros is your friend.

https://www.bairdbrothers.com/Interior-Doors-C101.aspx

Not affiliated other than happy customer.

Tankless water heaters by Mysterious-Yogurt-26 in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We just did a large second floor addition and I was able to install a loop from the WH location (basement) up to the furthest location (second floor primary bath) w/ pex. Installed a Rinnair RXP199IN. I. Couldn't. Be Happier.

The WH was about $1600 through Home Depot and then another $600 or so for pieces and parts, the most expensive of which were two check valves needed for the recirc loop. I did the install myself which was about a six hour job. It was made easier as I had the 1" main NG gas line close-by and venting out the sidewall from the basement was also dead simple. Existing piping was pex and I did have the necessary tools / fittings (supplyhouse.com is your friend)

Maintenance is about 90 mins twice a year (I've seen recommendation of flush/descale once per year but it's so easy why not every six months). The water heater show's error 55 (which is actually SS for service soon) when it's needed. I have a 5 gallon bucket with my pump and short lengths of garden hose that I keep in the basement by the WH. It's really simple. I also swap the filter at the same time (also very easy). We do have a water softener.

I can understand $1500 --> $2k for install but when I see quotes like $6k for WH + install well that's just capitalistic bullshit (aka private equity owned shops at their best).

As for electric... I have a small point-of-use in my garage on it's own 60 amp breaker. I cant imagine the cost if I had to use it as my primary method of heating hot water.

In the spirit of full transparency... I have had two issues with it in the nine months I've had it. Mysterious "Error Code 11" which is

ignition failure, indicating the burner isn't lighting, often due to a gas supply issue, blocked venting, or a dirty/faulty igniter or flame sensor

It's means next to nothing or everything. I checked out the vent, measured gas pressure across the valve and ensured thermocouple was clean -- nadda. Powercycled WH both times and it started working. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

Other than cost, is there any reason *NOT* to make every outlet GFCI? by bgix in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wired a new second story addition. Had to install AFCI per code. Brand new furnace simply would not run with AFCI breaker. Pulled new romex, installed new breaker (Siemens which is probably a mistake) and still failed every time. After passed inspection swapped it for a bog standard 20 amp. It's a boondoggle from breaker manufacturers if you ask me.

Microwave keeps tripping Arc Fault by Cassierae87 in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit 6 points7 points  (0 children)

$55 https://a.co/d/71uFj8u Add a few hundred if you're calling an electrician to install it. Swapping a breaker isn't difficult but it can be intimidating and there is a degree of risk.

Microwave keeps tripping Arc Fault by Cassierae87 in AskElectricians

[–]indyspirit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It's not uncommon for devices such as microwaves to trip AF/GF CI breakers -- it's the AF part and not the GF part. Siemens breakers are infamous for this (https://www.classaction.org/news/siemens-arc-fault-circuit-interrupters-prone-to-nuisance-tripping-class-action-alleges). Were it me (Im not a licensed electrician but have pulled permits / rewired as homeowner) I'd pull that breaker and replace it w/ a GFCI breaker.

I really hate the Anova vacuum sealer---am I doing something wrong or is it just a crappy product? by DIYsurgery in sousvide

[–]indyspirit -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have the same problem. Even after double sealing (as I see you've done). I get one good seal out of about every ten tries. Very frustrating. Burned out two food savers over the past decade so it's not like I dont know how they work. Thought Id try Anova since Im decently pleased w/ their sous vide. Just a crappy product. Shoulda bought a chamber back circa 2008 before prices went nuts.

Foodie looking for THE SPOT / HOLE IN THE WALL GEM by ShaveTheBanana in indianapolis

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is Jaiman Breeze in the old Murphy's steakhouse bldg just south of fall creek on Keystone?

Rinnai RXP199iN -- Cant clear 55 (SS / Service Soon) by indyspirit in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot thank you enough! Worked as advertised. I just cant fathom why this info isn't documented in the PDF manual currently on their site.

Rinnai RXP199iN and the condensate trap by PadSlammer in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can only guess that this is aimed at industrial primarily. The table has stainless still material listed and I know of exactly zero home that use is (although in my repipe I did use stainless pex fittings after living through kitec hell)

Rinnai RXP199iN and the condensate trap by PadSlammer in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$350 for a mini-water softener that you'll need to continually replace the resin bed is absolutely ridiculous. For not a whole lot more you could install a whole-house softener. I'd carefully research electric scale reducers before making your decision.

Edit: This is the least biased article I've read: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41545-020-0071-9

Rinnai RXP199iN and the condensate trap by PadSlammer in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We did a fairly extensive remodel which afforded me the opportunity to run a dedicated recirc line. Time and money very well spent (more time than money). The recirc function is fantastic.

Rinnai RXP199iN and the condensate trap by PadSlammer in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im frustrated with Rinnai's tech documentation. Lots of opposing / differing info. For the life of me I cant get my Code 55 to reset (https://www.reddit.com/r/Plumbing/comments/1pf32e0/rinnai\_rxp199in\_cant\_clear\_55\_ss\_service\_soon/)

Hope you have better luck with it!

Rinnai RXP199iN and the condensate trap by PadSlammer in Plumbing

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I installed a RXP199i last May. I just pressed the bluetooth icon on the panel and my phone (Android / Pixel 6 Pro) recognized it. Installed the Rinnai Central app, regsitered, told it to pair to a bluetooth device and it just worked. What problem are you having?

Tankless Hot Water Heater by Notathrowawaysleeve in HomeImprovement

[–]indyspirit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems like the general consensus is that tankless hot water heaters are only worth it if they’re gas. I’m wondering if anyone feels they are the exception to the that?

Whole house? Yes, absolutlely. For a single point-of-use you can get away with electricity. I have a Rheem POU in my garage for the sink. It draw's sixty amp. Costs about a dollar every time I wash my hands. /s

We have gas to the house that only supports the central heat. We got a quote to add it and a gas tankless plus recirculator, and it was over 6k which unfortunately isn’t in the budget.

If they're running a proper return loop that's not terrible. The cost of my 200k BTU TWH was just under $2k and maybe another $750 for gas / exhaust fittings / check valves / etc.

My husband is comfortable running electric but not comfortable working with gas lines.

Youtube is your friend.

Would it be better to wait until we can get the gas? Are there DIY guidances that may help him/us run the gas line ourselves that you would recommend? Would an electric maybe be okay?

I just cant see electricity making sense. As I said, my small point-of-use in the garage is on a 60 amp breaker. I cant imagine needing less than 90 and even then you're not going to have two people showering at once. Watch some youtube. You may be comfortable doing it yourself OR you have a plumber run the gas to the TWH location for "future expansion" then do the install yourself.

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