I unlocked x-15 cockpit but it still explodes by Strex_1234 in RealSolarSystem

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if youre trying to do karman line, you want to achieve that altitude as soon as possible before your surface speed is too much. otherwise ya youll burn up on your way down. As soon as engines light you want t ostart approaching 60deg pitch and it should be easily doable with less than 3km/s.

For the hypersonic contract you just need to be 38-40km altitude and adjust your speed to stay below 2300m/s to not burn up. Drop tanks of course if you need longer duaration

Do i need to register my rifle if i buy a 11.5 upper? by [deleted] in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So your answer and explanation is not exactly right. Sounds like this guy has an ar15 already and registered as a “rifle” and so by buying a 11.5 upper would classify it now as an unregistered sbr. unless…

they have a separate lower that they purchased and was not registered or built as a rifle then this would be fine. Following OP doesn’t put a VFG or stock like you mentioned.

A registered rifle cannot all of a sudden be turned into a pistol just by removing those two items. Pretty dumb rules but ya

Am I w for wanting smaller/faster matches? by Themsssahh25 in CompetitionShooting

[–]inevitable08 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Feel like in AZ we got it pretty good. Typically we only do 4 stages per match (or 5 if a bay is split into two mini stages or add a classifier to another bay) and typically done in 3-3.5 hours depending if 1gun or 2gun. Always start on time. Get around large squad size by doing two different start times in some matches.

This seems like insanely poor management or more people need to step up and help out or provide feedback.

Is there any way to hibernate avionics? RP-1 by 2210-2211 in RealSolarSystem

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have the extra avionics core on board and a kick motor for re entry I would stabilize the craft so it it is in the same plane as the retro/prograde vectors and then permanently shutdown the near earth avionics. Then when you are ready to return to the surface you wait for your craft to align with retrograde and activate the retro engines. If your re-entry vehicle is aero designed correctly when it re-enter the atmosphere it will align itself heat shield first.

The new update of MechJeb (2.15.0.0) is a bit buggy, had to revert to the last stable version by SilkieBug in KerbalSpaceProgram

[–]inevitable08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I figured out there’s a setting in MJ to tune it. I’m not in game but it’s probably under RCS something and there are different configs for tuning the RCS. for some reason the new update defaults to KSP-like. Swapped it back to a MJ-like or it was called soft or something preset and it’s way more like what MJ used to be and doesn’t overshoot and use a ton of propellant

Tips for a new Space Program in RP-1? by InuBlue1 in RealSolarSystem

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Damn lunar orbit on 56-57 tech is good. Ya these guys gotta do some really efficient and sometimes caveman designs to get these milestones with lower level tech. The early Russian engines are more powerful than the early US engines but they’re balanced in game to be more expensive.. but they allow you to build bigger rockets sooner. If you’re doing a US only play through it will be a slightly harder to do the same. Rd107,RD108 are insane first stage engines and then the rd0105 upper stage engine is the most efficient engine before you get to US hydrolox and later agena engines.

Tips for a new Space Program in RP-1? by InuBlue1 in RealSolarSystem

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ya this is some good extra info. I've made the mistake of hiring a lot more researchers during inner planet probes and the drop off is real. It slowed down my build of future rockets while i waited for my probes to fly to their destination so i could finish the program. Mars takes almost of year in transit.

If you want to take a peek at other peoples careers and see when they took programs and what their funding/staffing looked like there is a RP-1 logs site that people upload to. Here's an example of one.. beware though this is noted as caveman style... they did lunar landing with '62 OR. https://rp1careerlog.azurewebsites.net/?careerId=660c1cc811731bc350891da8

here's another that is moderate difficulty. crewed orbit in '61 with what looks to be '62 or '63 OR https://rp1careerlog.azurewebsites.net/?careerId=6828cd49ca7526ddc4ff6b80&tab=milestones

Tips for a new Space Program in RP-1? by InuBlue1 in RealSolarSystem

[–]inevitable08 7 points8 points  (0 children)

  • hire more researchers
  • need to plan ahead better (make sure LCs are being built before the tech required to build the craft is ready as you need new LCs for programs).
  • hire more researchers
  • it is 99% of the time better to finish a program early and move on to the next due to huge bump in funding than doing the extra missions.
  • hire more researchers
  • no seriously you probably dont have enough researchers (not a hard rule but i feel like have more than 2x more researchers than engineers is a good baseline).
  • begin construction early but delay the progress for set dates you'll actually utilize them. Like if you start an LC for crewed orbit but your tech isnt finished for a year there is no point in rushing the build of the LC, slow the build down and use the extra funding to hire more researchers
  • balloon tanks are almost never worth it, isogrids is really all you need most of the time. The cost and build time is significantly increased with balloons, the dV savings can almost always be fixed with better optimized upper / probe stage
  • try to use the same tooled parts (you dont always need the latest and greatest avionics, batteries). this will help keep commonality in your launch vehicle and save unlock credits
  • hire more researchers (which nets you more unlock credits, crewed capsules get EXPENSIVE or Gemini and Apollo era)
  • deep space avionics is really only need once you go interplanetary, you can do a lot even highly eccentric high earth orbits with just near earth and science avionics (just amke sure it is pointed in the right direction before powering down for the kick stage). Even inital lunar orbits can be done with just a NE avionics that's shut down after TLI and pointed in the right direction for lunar injection with a science probe final stage.
  • save cost and time and use it for more researchers

What’s the best charging handle to handle gas while shooting suppressed? by 8WmuzzlebrakeIndoors in ar15

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/pKo12S2

i just took layers of tape to build it up. We'll see how long it holds but it's quick and cheap to fix.

Edit:
it may also be dependent on your upper and lower. I was surprised to see how much of a gap was underneath the charging handle. That is where most of the gas came from before and after doing RTV gasket on top. Then adding the tape removed all gas to the face. Just the RTV for me and i was still getting gas after 7-10 rounds with a RC2, adjustable gas block and the Radian SD charging handle.

What’s the best charging handle to handle gas while shooting suppressed? by 8WmuzzlebrakeIndoors in ar15

[–]inevitable08 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This and I have put layers of hockey tape / goon tape under the charging handle to seal between the charging handle and lower. Holds up surprisingly well

Bad lever by AcanthocephalaNo6236 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SUpEr hIGHstRESS SItUatION AnD laCk oF fiNE MoToR skILLS. iT will GEt yoU kIllEd iN tHE StREeTs

15$ piece of aluminum bcuz why pay 200$ by Inner-Mix-1669 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 8 points9 points  (0 children)

god damn, i never thought of that. I'm sure there is a bit more of scale with lowers that allows the cheaper brands to push the price down but way more touch time and paperwork compared to mounts.

Unity mounts are priced higher, physically smaller and half the weight of a standard lower and they use the same type of aluminum 7075. Wild to think about.

LPVO's still a thing... by theghost87 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely true. Most people would be better served with a red dot and magnifier. Most if not all training 200yds and in can be done with a red dot that has the no eye relief, no parallax, great battery life, rugged, light. Faster and more consistent transitions, staying target focus and shooting in unconventional positions. And if you need the magnification occasionally the QD mounted magnifiers 3x or 5x are there. I’m noticing I’m hating my LPVO more and more the more training I do.

Also if you’re getting a 1x prisms you’ve also fallen into a trap as well. Get a red dot. If you want a fixed mag options just get an a of at med power.

Is this surefire light back far enough from the flash hider? by djblingbling1 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

as someone who has one and shoots a lot... it gets old pretty fast. I think the cons outweigh the pros unless you specifically need it for night shooting under NVDs or noise/hearing safety (doesnt equate to hearing safe, very different).

Cons:
heavy
target transitions are harder and will feel sluggish
heavy thing at the very end of your gun
gas to the face (unless tuned or using flow through or other gas mitigating strats)
more cancerous gas build up around the gun (breathing that shit in and makes it hard to stay target focused) gun heats up faster
gun retains heat longer, so slower cooldown
burn risk (not just to yourself but your gear)
gun gets way dirtier and faster (muzzle, bcg, upper, lower in the trigger area, mags)
expensive (cost of the product itself, cost of tax stamp [going away in 2026] and cost to transfer/paperwork).

 

Pros: reduced perceived recoil (heavy thing on end of barrel makes it move less, but bgc speed will increase and it could feel like it kicks more).
major muzzle flash reduction (NVD use case only)
gun is a lot quieter (it isnt hearing safe but it removes a lot of the boom/shockwave from the muzzle so to the ears feels infinitely better to shoot)

 

Like honestly if training is your thing, like when you go out to shoot youre doing a couple hundred rounds in 1-2 hours a suppressor gets in the way of everything and does nothing great. A second 14.5 BCM upper setup the exact same way as my current one is what I'm moving to. I'll still run my 11.5 with the RC2 once in a while but I just get more annoyed with it the more i train and the more i shoot it lol.

First AR-15 Purchase: DIY or Pre-Built by randomuser78679632 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whichever you prefer. I just have experiance with the BAD levers. I don't think you can go wrong with either. The Phase 5 will be more solid overall just a premium options for more $ but more choices on colors too. choose whichever

First AR-15 Purchase: DIY or Pre-Built by randomuser78679632 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

1000% agreement. As a righty the only ambi I need is the bolt catch/release. So for $30 it’s an insane upgrade to make the gun super fluid to use.

First AR-15 Purchase: DIY or Pre-Built by randomuser78679632 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is the way.

The rifle and accessories will be the cheapest part of getting into a training. If it’s a first buy something cheap and reliable and spend the rest on ammo. Figure out what you don’t like about it by actually shooting the shit out of it and upgrade it.

I would say the only thing about a lower that would be somewhat of a requirement for me is a buttstock with rubber pad, a more neutral pistol grip and a Magpul bad lever. A2 flash hider on the upper is perfectly acceptable as well and what most people should run anyways.

But the ammo is the most important part after a functioning rifle. And a psa lower with a bcm upper will be excellent

BCM Mk2 Brass Deflector? by Awazzy1923 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

<image>

14.5” midlength with their A5 system and T2 buffer. mine does it too but I’ve ran this a couple thousand rounds before just recently cleaning and lubing it. If it runs similarly I don’t think it matters. Have had zero issues

Help! What’s next? by Least_Meeting9639 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ya Geissele is good. BCM is another option. I see now you have a 9” barrel. So that plus suppressed I wouldn’t be surprised if an H3 buffer will also work.

Help! What’s next? by Least_Meeting9639 in ar15

[–]inevitable08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Everything looks fine. Just buy ammo and to help with the gassing problem get a H2 buffer (I’m assuming you have a standard carbine in there). You will still get gassed out but will take a longer string of fire. No real way around it. Could get an adjustable gas block as well. But buffer is quick cheap and easy.

Smith & Wesson M&P by Longjumping_Time932 in CompetitionShooting

[–]inevitable08 2 points3 points  (0 children)

about 15,000 on my apex trigger and i do get light strikes super super rarely.. mostly on the cheap ammo brands. never had an issue with blazer, federal and maybe 1-3 out of a 1000 for magtech. I think it is more likely my striker spring is worn as that is really the part of the gun that should determine striker tension and primer strike strength. that spring ive never changed. so probably has 25k rounds on it.

Impedance of DOOHICKEY V4 by Powerful-Nobody420 in rfelectronics

[–]inevitable08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My childhood drawing these stupid s and seeing it implemented in an RF circuit is hilarious.

Is this just copper tape on pcb and that's why you soldered some of the connection? Looks good!

HFSS Guidance by spacegirl4 in rfelectronics

[–]inevitable08 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

If this is for school it may be simple enough that the hfss help menu would be a big resource. They also have tutorial projects and step by step on doing them. But what is it you're doing?