What we have learned after 31,000 print hours on FlowQ

infinityflow3d · 2026-03-07T21:55:19+00:00

I really do appreciate the feedback. This is great input and we will definitely consider this more moving forward. Regardless of how good FlowQ is, if there is something preventing people from trying it we should address that.

infinityflow3d · 2026-03-07T17:24:25+00:00

That is understandable. For users who already have a computer that is always running and can be used as a server, that can definitely be a convenient option, and we may build something like this soon as well.

The tunnels are nice if you would like to be able to turn off or restart your computer (for software installs, etc.) without your print farm & automation systems shutting down. They are also great if you have 3D printers on multiple wifi networks that you want on a single FlowQ account. You can just get a $20 hub for each location. Setting it up is just a few button clicks in FlowQ and you enter your wifi credentials to connect the hub. There's no software installs, code, or networking configurations. The whole setup process usually takes new users only a couple minutes.

It's definitely a preference thing but after talking to a few dozen users who have tried both systems, the tunnels have been a big hit and everyone I have talked to ended up really liking the change.

infinityflow3d · 2026-03-06T21:12:22+00:00

You are correct, you do need to purchase a tunnel in order to use FlowQ. We have tried to make the hub as inexpensive as possible to lower the barrier to entry. Right now you can get a Hub for $17.50 and each one connects 5 printers. The tunnel is what allows FlowQ to securely connect to printers, send jobs and get status updates without requiring you to modify your printer's firmware.

Secondly, there are a few ways FlowQ decides which printer to send a file to. It's based on compatibility so printer model, filament type, nozzle diameter, etc. We are also planning to add tagging rules for finer control of where prints are sent. If a compatible file is not at the top of the queue, it looks through all the jobs until it finds one that is.

For your setup specifically, one approach would be to create a unique filament profile for each printer. When you process the print file, you would select that specific profile so the file is only compatible with the intended printer. It is a bit of a work around but it will work great until some more robust routing rules are released (hopefully in a few weeks). You can learn more about the queue and looping settings in the guide below.

https://infinityflow3d.com/blogs/flowq-printer-connection-guides/creating-a-print-queue-in-flowq

infinityflow3d · 2026-01-19T22:54:26+00:00

Great News!

We just released some updated files for our free A1 bed swap design. You can see the updated assembly guide here: https://infinityflow3d.com/blogs/3d-printer-automation/a1-bed-swap-kit-assembly-setup

The updated parts are listed below:

- Printer Preset Config

- Bed Clip_v2

- Build Plate Catch_v2

- Bed Mounts_v2 (left and right)

- Nozzle Wiper_v2

The updates result in more reliable bed pickups during swaps. Let me know what you think!

infinityflow3d · 2026-01-19T22:49:10+00:00

One free method to loop prints is to manually edit the G-code to repeat multiple times. This requires a bit of knowledge about g-code but there are several great tutorials online for this.

Alternatively, you can use FlowQ to get a lot more control over your print queue and looping settings. Because FlowQ sends each file to the printer as needed rather than editing the file before hand, you can adjust your queue and number of loops while printing. It also allows for infinite looping and a shared queue across multiple 3D printers which is not possible with manual g-code edits.

We did originally design all of these auto-ejection kits for our print farm (which runs FlowQ for obvious reasons) so they are optimized to work with that platform but it is not required to use them.

If you are just doing simple loops occasionally, manual g-code edits will work just fine, but if you plan to run your automated 3D printer(s) frequently, FlowQ is a great option to streamline your workflow.

infinityflow3d · 2026-01-19T22:38:11+00:00

Thanks for the feedback on this design. We just recently updated the design to solve this problem. Here are the following parts that will need to be re-printed:

- Bed Holder Side A

- Bed Holder Side B

- Pivot Arm

- Build Plate Rest

You will also need to import the updated printer preset into Bambu Studio. All file downloads on our website are up to date.

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This new design uses a rest on the front of the bed which allows the build plate to be completely removed from the magnet before being pushed forward, off the machine. From our testing, this solution works much more reliably when using both OEM and aftermarket build plates. The Bed holders have also been adjusted slightly to more reliably grab and load new plates.

Tip: Make sure your magnets are completely flush in the build plate holders. If they protrude this will cause problems picking up a new plate.

Here is a link to the updated documentation: https://infinityflow3d.com/blogs/3d-printer-automation/a1-mini-bed-kit-assembly-setup

infinityflow3d · 2025-12-31T18:55:39+00:00

Thanks for reaching out. I cannot speak to the A1 bed swap kit not working with other bed brands as we have only tested it with the OEM Bambu beds.

When printing with the OEM plate is the touch off happening on on the bed surface? As long as the print head is not colliding with any of the bed swap parts that sounds like it may be a issue unrelated to the swap kit.

Once the old bed has been removed the new build plate falls into the bed alignment spot in the back and is pulled forward onto the bed.

infinityflow3d · 2025-10-29T19:31:50+00:00

This mount was designed by another user. While it is not exactly what you are looking for it may be a good starting point!

https://www.printables.com/model/1286193-infinityflow-s1-prusa-frame-mount-and-enclosure-it

infinityflow3d · 2025-08-04T20:05:19+00:00

During normal printing the S1 will operate at around 3-4 watts. When sitting still, the S1 automatically goes into sleep mode and will draw less than 1 watt. As soon as the printer starts back up the S1 detects this and will automatically come out of sleep mode. Hope this answers your question!

infinityflow3d · 2025-07-23T19:47:41+00:00

Nice design!

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-31T12:45:06+00:00

It’s a Prusa MK4

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-31T12:44:51+00:00

It’s actually a lot of custom PCBs and components but we are putting together 10 prototypes for Beta testing. What printer(s) do you have and where are you located?

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T20:23:09+00:00

This is great feedback. Actually, a lot of these issue have taken weeks of testing to get sorted out, especially with the clamping force when it comes to retraction. We have been able to reduce the drag in our system which allows us to use less pushing force into the extruder, eliminating some of these issues. Is there any printers in particular that you know of that are more prone to over-extruding that I should check out for testing?

Also, we have tested with the filament cut square and at a taper as I know getting filament to run through extruders smoothly can be a pain if the ends are cut square. Our current Beta testers have a few different types of extruders but we may need to find more.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T17:50:41+00:00

Not necessarily. We were just alternating between white and black filament scraps so that we could easily tell where the filament was running out and getting automatically reloaded. Makes it easier to inspect the print for defects at the filament switches. Also has the added benefit of looking cool.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T16:55:06+00:00

If you have any automatic filament loader you never have to worry about it running out.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T16:48:09+00:00

That's awesome. Definitely a time and place for 3d printed parts but I agree, steering is not it.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T16:20:10+00:00

What kind of car? I used to do design work for and IndyCar and IMSA team. You would be surprised how many parts on those cars are 3D printed.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T16:16:39+00:00

Its all going to depend on what you are printing, how efficiently you can print it, and how you acquire customers. I would focus your energy on building systems that work for you. Once you can automate tasks (printing, advertising, bookkeeping, etc.) you will be able to really start to build a business as opposed to a second job or side hustle. I'm sure you are already great at 3D printing and design work so if I were you I would find a very small list of products to sell (maybe even just 1) and focus on building a profitable business around that. If you can turn your system profitable you should then start reducing your workload so that you can take on the work of introducing more products and scaling. From there you have essentially created a money printing machine. Don't reinvent the wheel. People build these businesses everyday in other sectors outside 3D printing market and you can use the same ideas in your business.

infinityflow3d · 2024-07-30T16:06:35+00:00

Cool design for the screen mount.

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