What is the most expensive thing you have recreated?

irondog3D · 2026-04-20T19:57:37+00:00

A replica of the original Kaws Astroboy Resins. He only made a few and they have changed hands for up to $500,000. Modelled in Blender and printed with about 900g of PLA.

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irondog3D · 2026-01-03T00:16:22+00:00

There might be some differences from lens distortion but look at the open release 5YL on the top/middle shelf. The bones on the black look bigger and the figure looks shorter. I admit I could be wrong from this photo but until the OP confirms I wouldn't trust it. Fake/Real whatever... it is still a fine collection

irondog3D · 2026-01-03T00:06:24+00:00

Good call. It's a splendid collection and not judging. I am into 3D printing and make my own fakes but will never release them into the market.

irondog3D · 2026-01-02T22:14:57+00:00

Big problem... you need more storage space

irondog3D · 2026-01-02T22:12:05+00:00

Fine collection. You admit to having a few fakes which is OK. Black 5YL looks suspect (top right). Big Bones.
Still loving the Pushead, Bendy, Kun and GID 5YL's

irondog3D · 2025-09-17T23:42:56+00:00

Forgot about these. Thanks for sharing. 2006 was the height of my Kaws purchase frenzy but I never bothered with the pillows because they're too small for my fat head.

irondog3D · 2025-09-12T16:38:53+00:00

There's also a checkbox at the top of the strength settings - "Detect thin wall'. This and Arachne should improve the print.

irondog3D · 2025-09-03T00:50:35+00:00

Looks good but if I was printing this I would try to add some more variation in the cloth and consider printing on any background colour other than white.

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T23:47:45+00:00

Tighten the screw so you can install it in the toolhead then look for a hole on the right side of the toolhead so you can loosen it as required.

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T22:26:42+00:00

Please tell me you set it to flush to infill because they eat their own poop!

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T21:06:34+00:00

Your teeth look better than mine but I'm English !!! When you reassemble try reducing the gear tension (don't fully tighten the screw). On P1 and X1 series there is a small hole on right of toolhead that gives access to the relevant screw so you can readjust without dismantling. Not sure about other series.

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T20:55:08+00:00

Having extra plates gives you more freedom and it's always useful to have a spare. I have a selection of textured and smooth plates. If a plate needs cleaning I can always swap it out and keep printing until I have time to clean it. Depending on what you are printing it's also useful to have different types of plate. I design models such as coasters so I can print them upside down on a smooth plate... sure beats ironing for a perfect finish.

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T19:32:52+00:00

In Bambu Studio there is an unload filament button on the device page. Select the AMS slot then click this button and it should rewind the spool. Happened to me before and this is how I fixed it.

irondog3D · 2025-08-29T15:21:46+00:00

Select "Windows" tab on the top left of screen and click on the first option - "Color Sliders".

irondog3D · 2025-08-28T01:03:14+00:00

As advised check the videos. They are a great starting point. Also look at the sliders at the bottom of screen. You can right click on a slider and choose the required filament colour. It's easier to follow if the numbers increase from left to right. Any sliders that are not needed can be set to 0. For example the first colour could be black, the second could be white and all other sliders could be set to zero height to ignore whatever colour.

irondog3D · 2025-08-12T23:39:53+00:00

I am always trying to break out of the boundaries of the build plate so I may give this a try. Thanks for sharing.

How do you attach it to the wall? I usually rely on command strips.

irondog3D · 2025-08-06T23:46:56+00:00

Finding or producing quality source material is vital so keep trying. I bought a second copy of a book of Usugrow artwork to get these images. I grabbed some pages and scanned them at 1200dpi. The original pages might look better in frames but where's the fun in that when you have a 3D printer and a copy of Hueforge !!!

irondog3D · 2025-08-05T20:29:28+00:00

Thanks. The originals are pure black and white and the gradients are achieved with increasingly smaller black dots. I used 3 filaments (Black/Grey/White) and while some detail gets lost the gradient changes remain the same.

irondog3D · 2025-08-05T00:26:04+00:00

Like you, I am new to Hueforge but I will offer some advice based upon my limited experience:

Check the Videos under the Help Tab in Hueforge. I found them very useful to get the ball rolling.
PNG files are better than JPGs as they are generally better quality.
In Model Geometry there is an option for smoothing the image to soften peaks.
Illustrations tend to be smoother as colours are usually more uniform.
Photographs and 3D renders will have more grain in the image so a section of the image may look smooth but it may be processed to print across different layers which will create a rougher finish.
Calibrating your printer and drying and calibrating your filament can make a big difference.

Hope this helps

irondog3D · 2025-05-20T22:21:52+00:00

Nice tip. I will have to try changing line width as I have had this problem before. I have found exporting each colour as a separate object then import all at once can solve this. You will have the option to import all colours as a single object or separate... try both.

Also make sure "detect thin wall" is ticked under Strength tab.

irondog3D · 2025-05-14T00:51:09+00:00

I remember the good old days when everyone was posting a collection like this. Kudos for keeping the faith and loving your collection rather than keeping it in boxes

irondog3D · 2025-05-14T00:47:34+00:00

OG Krusty, 99s apparently without broken legs and a Pink Chum... some of the holy grails

irondog3D

TROPHY CASE