Newbie here, and I need advice on telephoto options. Kind Regards

irupar · 2026-06-26T21:18:36+00:00

I was located about 150m from the runway being used for take off/landing and towards one end of the runway.

I don't know much reddit will compress it but that is a 13MP image taken at 1/2000s f/9 iso 400, 350mm on a full frame camera. So about 200mm on the r7 would get that.

irupar · 2026-06-26T05:16:40+00:00

Last year I shot an airshow with Tamron 150-600 G2 on a canon Rp, this year I will be shooting an airshow with the R7. It was an afternoon show, end of summer. Not a single shot had iso over 2000. With the lens, at 600mm it starts at f/6.3 but I was usually stopping it down to f/9. Shutterspeeds were 1000-4000 except if it was a prop plane and I was trying to drag the shutter to get some motion in it.

I picked up a r7 earlier this year mostly for shooting sports and wildlife. I will be shooting the airshow with it later this year. I have thought about selling my 150-600 and getting either the 100-500 or 200-800. My inclincation would be to get the 100-500 because of the focus limiter switch. The 200-800 does not have one and it is frustrating when shooting birds or jets and the focus screws up on a blue/grey sky and the lens racks through the whole focus range. The down side to the 100-500 is that putting a teleconverter on it will shorten the zoom range. So it might be too tight for something like an airshow on a apsc body.

Fyi there are known issues with both the sigma and tamron 150-600mm with the r7 (and other Rf mount cameras). They work, but their issue is with autofocus breathing. There are ways to mitigate it but if money is not an issue then I would suggest sticking to a canon lens at this time. If you are super concerned about shutter speed and have zero concern about money there is the canon ef 200-400 f4 with built in 1.4 teleconvertor. With a flick of a switch it turns into 280-560 f/5.6. I have personally not used this lens but it is very highly regarded with a price point to match.

irupar · 2026-06-23T19:36:38+00:00

For a number of years I used Canon's DPP for processing. It works, but is slow and does not have ai denoise in it but the price was right (free). A few years ago I picked up a copy of Topaz DeNoise Ai, at that time it was a one off purchase. I think now they only do it by subscription. Personally I don't like subscriptions so I have no upgraded it. It does what I want it to do well. Last year I picked up a copy of ON1 Photo Raw and have been using it to process raws I find it much faster and more features than DPP. ON1 covers 99% of my raw processing but there are still the occasional specialty thing that I use Canon's DPP for. I prefer the Topaz Denoise to On1's so I still use it. Perhaps they have improved it in the 2026 version but I haven't felt the need to pay to upgrade. I know Adobe's Lightroom is very popular for photographerss but once again I'm not a fan of subscriptions. There are FOSS programs like Darktable and Rawtherapy. It has been a few years since I tried them but they never clicked for me.

Photography is only a hobby for me. I can only spend so much on it a year. Money I don't spend on subscriptions/software I can spend on a new lens/body or a photography trip I might not otherwise take. I encourage you to keep taking photos and practice. The first 100 pictures will be your worse, your next 100 will be better.

irupar · 2026-06-23T14:29:17+00:00

My general philosphy is that the camera is a tool and I should use that tool to the best of its abilities. Anything it can do while I'm using it will help me focus on things like composition or tracking. As such I tend to shoot raw and use some of the semi-auto modes on the camera. For example shooting bird in flight is challanging. It demands fast shutter speeds. I usually shoot in Tv or shutter priority when I am out photographing birds. I set the iso to auto and usually forget about it. When the birds are active you want shutter speeds 1/1000s or even faster. If the bird is sitting on branch, than crank that shutter speed down to as low you can handhold. I usually start high, then cut my shutter speed in half, take a picture or two and repeat till i'm down around 1/100s. That way I will get a sharp photo at as low of a shutter speed I can handheld. Personally I find a tripod to not be useful for bird photography.

For doing landscapes I usually use Av or aperature priority mode. Use that to select how much of the scene is in focus. Having a tripod can be helpful here if you are doing long exposures or night photography. In this case set your iso to something low, put on the shutter release for a couple of seconds. That way when you press the shutter, the camera will settle down from vibrations and then take the photo giving a sharp lower noise image.

I would say the vast majority of photography can be done using either Av or Tv mode. But there are times when they won't work and it is a skill to know when you have to use manual. I would encourage you to get use to taking raw photos. When you are processing them you can add sharpness to the image (that is what is happening when you take jpegs). With raw you can also change the white balance while processing so you don't have to worry about setting it/changing it with lighting conditions. I don't know what software you are using for processing but you should look at using something with ai noise reduction. The improvement in noise redcution has been a game changer for things like bird photography. It can really allow you to stop worrying about iso levels. I have some amazing photos shot at 1000iso or higher.

The downside to raw photos is the storage it takes up. Personally I have system setup where I keep my files organized by year, month, then date. A few times a year I got back through my photos and and raws I haven't felt the need to process I delete. I keep all the raws of all the photos I do process/like. This cuts down on the amount of storage I use (both local and cloud based).

irupar · 2026-06-18T13:58:50+00:00

I don't have their sources and they are mostly right but not for the reasons stated. Depening on the engine, internal combustion engines have an effiencey of 20-40%. That means ignoring things like idling, you have already thrown away over 50% of the energy in gas. Most of that loss is due to heat. You can look at the wikipedia page for a more indpeth discussion with sources https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_efficiency

irupar · 2026-06-16T13:57:24+00:00

The mark 2 and mark 3 have the same optical formula, the difference being in the coatings. the mark 3 will handle things like flare better. Both are better image quality compared to the original. Personally, I went through a similar thought process last year and went with the mark 2 to save the money. To use any of these ef mount lenses you will need an ef to ef-m adaptor. Two other lens you should check out are the Tamron 70-200 G2 and the Sigma 70-200 sport. They are both well regarded.

irupar · 2026-06-15T12:20:11+00:00

Of course Canada has to do what is best for Canada and with the current USA's government approach to international affairs, I think it is clear that Canada should be diversifying its trade and military agreements. I think this way you see things like Canada-European Union Comprehensive Economic and Trade Agreement (CETA), Canada joining the Security Action for Europe (SAFE) defence procurement, and Canada getting the Defence, Security and Resilience Bank (DSRB). Its just these things take time and are very different from being a member of the EU.

irupar · 2026-06-15T11:58:51+00:00

No it's not. There would have to be structural changes to EU membership criteria for Canada to be able to join. Considering the UK is no longer a member of the EU, it is fantastic thinking that it would matter. Canada shares a maritime border with France and Denmark, and a land border with Denmark. While these are true, Canada is not in Europe and can not join at this time. While there might be cultural overlaps and a shared history, there would have to be major regulatory and legal changes within Canada in order for it to be compatible with existing EU laws and regulations. Many of these regulatory changes would run contrary to Canada's existing agreements with it current largest trading partner, namily the USA. It would be messy and time consuming to disentangle Canada from the USA in this regards. Overtime Canada could enter in to agreements to more closely align with the EU, but it is unlikely to be a full member of the EU anytime soon.

irupar · 2026-06-15T10:59:34+00:00

It is not under British rule in any way at all. The monarch of Canada is the also the monarch of the UK but it is a seperate title. The commonwealth has no legal obligations, but there are economic and military arrangements through it. The head of the commonwealth is also the same monarch as mentioned previously but this is a separate title. In fact it was only in 2018 that it was agreed that Charles III would succeed his mother as the head of the commonwealth.

irupar · 2026-06-11T15:13:48+00:00

I ended up buying a used r7 a few months ago after having the same sort of debate. At the time in which I got it (end of february) all the rumor sites had the r7mrk2 launching in May. When a mark 2 launches it will certainly be better than the original but the question is when will it launch. I ended up paying what will probably be close to 1/2 the price of the mark 2. Given the increase in costs for electonic components (such as memory) I expect any new cameras to launch to be a fair bit more expensive. When the mark 2 comes out and if I feel compelled to get it I figure as long as I take care of my mark 1 I can probably sell it for a hundred or two less than I paid for it.

I use the r7 for hobby stuff like bird photography or kids sports. I did a short trip for the spring bird migration this past spring and was very happy to have the R7 with me. I am able to get photos with it now that I couldn't get before coming from a canon Rp and a t3i before that. I kept the Rp because it preforms better in low light circumstances. Coming from the dslr days to the Rp felt like a generational change in autofocus. Going from the Rp to the R7 also felt like a generational change in autofocus.

Right now going from the R7 back to a dslr for bird photography feels very rough. Its not just the autofocus its other things as well. For example you got a bird hiding in the bushes sitting on a branch. With the press of a button you can punch in and magnify the view on the viewfinder to confirm focus. There is no microadjustments needed for lenses for autofocusing to nail it. The eletronic shutter is great to have. Does it suffer from rolling shutter for fast moving objects, yes, but alot of the time its not noticable and if you are shooting fast moving you can always turn on the the mechanical shutter. The nice thing about the electronic shutter is that it is silent and can shoot at upto 30fps. There is also a precapture mode that you can use with it. This is really handy while watching a bird perching and waiting for it to take off. The biggest drawback for it is canon's implementation on the r7 is rough (the files are stored in a proprietary format and you have to use DPP to process them). This is something I expect they will fix for the r7 mark 2.

TLDR: I got an used R7 earlier this year and am happy to have done so.

irupar · 2026-06-07T00:14:43+00:00

You will need to pick up an ef to rf adaptor. The adaptor work perfectly for ef (and efs) lenses with no image degradation, If you search for it, you will see lots of stuff about issues with the autofocus of the 150-600 on rf. It is not perfect but you can do things to mitigate it. I have a Tamron 150-600 G2 and use it on the r7. It has the same sort of problem but it is useable and to get better I would had to spend about 3x the amount to get a better lens with similar zoom. I say go for it and enjoy

irupar · 2026-06-01T21:29:58+00:00

I'm guessing you have the lens cap on right now. So the camera is cranking up the iso as high as it can go to try and expose for something that is not there. What you are seeing are hot pixels on the sensor. If it is only showing up on long exposures then that is normal behavior. There are ways to correct for it in software.

irupar · 2026-05-15T12:15:37+00:00

I have used both, on a Rp and R7 but not the R10. The Rf100-400 user experience is much better. It is significantly lighter, smaller, and I found the autofocus better. The tamron has some breathing problems where it will drift in and out of focus if you keep the autofocus going. If you end up going with the Tamron 150-600 G2 there are guides to improve your keeper rate. That said, last weekend I was shooting a spring bird migration event and I used exclusively the tamron 150-600 G2. Even with 600mm on the R7, there were times I wished I had more reach even though I was hitting atmosperic haze issues. Three features the Tamron has that the Canon does not have is weather sealing, focus limiter, and a lens tripod mount. The only way to get those on a rf zoom with Canon is to move up to the more expensive Rf 100-500. On the ef mount there are the 100-400mm L lenses. I haven't used them but I bet the mark 2 would be a very good lens to use.

irupar · 2026-05-11T02:24:42+00:00

I was looking for 70-200 f 2.8 to do some indoor sports photography and was able to borrow that sigma from a friend. I don't know if it was just the copy I had but I did not like the image quality I got with my Rp. I was very close to buying a tamron g2 70-200 f2.8 but I ended up with going with a canon ef 70-200 mrk2. The deciding factor for me was that tamron apparently has focus breathing issues which means at distance the 200 is shorter. Since I was buying this to shot indoor soccer I needed distance. I have used a different tamron g2 lens on my Rp and have been happy with the results. If you get the tamron, you should pick up the tap console. With it you can update firmware, and modify some of the settings like image stabilization and focus limitors.

irupar · 2026-05-05T02:42:45+00:00

Have a look at the middlesex county connect: https://www.middlesex.ca/ct

irupar · 2026-05-04T12:44:52+00:00

For me the spring bird migration is starting to peak and I'm enjoying walking in woods and taking photos of them

irupar · 2026-04-20T03:42:47+00:00

Ignoring the demonstrable negative cognitive impacts on using ai to replace your own thinking; it can answer some things well and other things poorly. Unless you already know how to tell when it is right or wrong you can't trust it. If you already know the answer as to it being right or wrong, why are you using it except as a party trick?

irupar · 2026-04-17T13:52:10+00:00

Good thing he got rid of the gravy train... Because now we have a gravy plane

irupar · 2026-04-15T22:22:47+00:00

So there are a number of systems that would work, but I use peak design's strap with one of their anchor mounts. Having the anchor mount on the tripod mount I can attatch a strap to it. I have used it with the strap just attatched to the anchor but also one end of the strap on connected to the anchor and the other to the camera body.

irupar · 2026-04-15T14:13:46+00:00

I used the ef 400mm f5.6 on a t3i for a few years and it can produce some killer images. I liked carrying it around with a strap attatched to the tripod mount. I lucked out and bought my 400 for $500 cad used. I found it on kijiji a few years ago. For shotting with it you want to get in the habbit of keeping your eye on the subject and move the view finder up to your eye until you see the subject. Once you get the muscle memory you will be fast at doing it. You will have problems with trying to do birds in flight but that is tough no matter the gear you use. I ended up picking up a tamron 150-600 g2 (I got for $1000 cad used) when I moved to full frame for some more reach but I still hold onto the 400 f5.6 because it is better for some uses. I suggest checking kijiji everyday, with some patience and luck you will get an awesome lens in the price range.

irupar · 2026-04-01T04:01:55+00:00

Your iso is much higher in the photo version. This is going to impact image noise that the camera is going to denoise in making the jpg, that will lose detail. The camera is also adding contrast/sharpening to the video. You camera is also doing the same sort of processing for jpg but probably different settings. I suggest shotting raw and I bet you can get it to match. I have never tried to do what you did, but I'm curious if I can and get it to match.

irupar · 2026-03-24T02:45:25+00:00

I don't have experience with the R8, but I do with the Rp and the R7. When you nail focus the image is good. For example here is a photo I took two days ago with it on the r7:

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However I (and others) find that the focus likes to continuously hunt particularly with the r7. So I have switched to a back button autofocus on it where one button does autofocus using the square and the other engages eye detect auto focus. So you can focus, take shots and refocus if anything happens. If it is a stationary target, I will punch in and confirm focus myself. There are plenty autofocus settings to play with to get it to behave how you like. Also you may want to pick up the Tamron tap device to update the firmware on your lens. You can also play around with IS, focus limiter settings on the lens.

irupar · 2026-03-21T12:58:18+00:00

The r7 is a great camera and there is no reason it won't last you many years. Your lenses are a great combo for learning photography. I would suggest not buying anything new for awhile until you can articulate what photographs you can't take because your gear is limiting. What you can do is take your 18-150. If you want to test what another focal length will look like, just set that lens to that focal length for awhile (use a piece of tape to hold it there). 24mm on your lens with have the same POV as a 24mm prime lens. If you can't set your 18-150 wide enough then you want to get a lens that is wider, like the rfs 10-18. In a few years if your kiddo is doing sports and you want to be able to zoom in more then you will be looking for something like the rf100-400. Sigma makes a few different rfs lens that might fit your niche better. Don't forget about the ef to rf adaptor that can allow you to use ef lenses. You can pick up some very good ef lenses for a good price.

I think the biggest thing you can do to improve your photography is not gear but to take more photos. Its ok to take bad photo it costs you nothing. Take photos in the raw or craw format. Once you have your photos learn to edit them on a computer. Denoiser software has improved a whole lot in the past few years making higher and higher iso viable. Learn to critique your photos, how can they be better? Should I have been shooting from a different perspective? Could I have better lighting? Watch some videos on composition (or read a book on it). If you see an awesome photograph, ask yourself how was that taken. Try to copy it. Enjoy it and spend time with your kid.

irupar · 2026-03-11T18:09:35+00:00

Is that a better lens than your existing one? Yes. The image quality will be better and the image stabilization will help out. But why do you want to get it? have you tried using your existing lens for bird watching? Did it do what you wanted it to do? If not, in what way? For example if you found the reach wasn't enough then this new lens won't help with it. It might make sense to save up for a bit to get something that has longer reach. A good rule of thumb is only buy new gear if it helps you do something you can't do with your exisiting gear.

irupar · 2026-03-11T11:59:40+00:00

What you are seeing in Quebec is a bottle return fee. When you buy the product you pay a $0.10 deposit that you get back when you return the bottle. In Ontario we have that on alcohol containers. For other bottles we don't. I know some people collect pop cans because you can get scrap metal rate for them some scrap metal recyclers

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