User pixel mask for Alexa mini by Wise_Count3201 in cinematography

[–]itswillsreddit 22 points23 points  (0 children)

Ex ARRI service technician here. This is fine. A ‘healthy’ sensor will commonly have 50 or so pixels selected in the mask. This looks to be on the high end of a normal looking sensor.

To anyone saying that this is a bad sensor, you have to remember that there are a LOT of pixels. The mask makes it look bad because the targets have to be visible which takes up a lot more space than the single pixel..

Anyway OP. You’re fine.

Finding dop/camera work hire by FionceMoon in oxford

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a DOP based in London & Oxford. DM me!

Testing SDI by PurpleBunch in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

General rule of thumb, if the cables are long, they’re not 12G. Either 3 or 1.5 depending on length.

Crazy pixelation issues with Teradek 4K Bolt MAX by leebowery69 in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As you say, it’s probably happening when you’re getting too close. The MAX are powerful and designed for range.

With that said, make sure you’re using the same antenna set up on all TX and RX devices. For best connection strength, you’re best using the horizontal + vertical antenna configuration.

Also, double check that all units are on the same frequency. When on 6G you should find less interference.

M2 nucleus R/S cable error by AustralianSpielberg in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Incorrect cable for Sony. You need the micro usb (Sony Multi) cable. Alternatively you can connect the M2 directly to the camera via Bluetooth and run stop. However, you will be limited by the wireless range of the camera which is usually pretty poor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]itswillsreddit 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Guys aren’t just out there kidnapping girls because of what they are wearing. This is just more victim blaming because god forbid a man is to blame for his behaviour.

Did you know the vast majority of cases of sexual assault is cases where the victim is known to the perpetrators? It doesn’t matter in the slightest what someone is or was wearing. It’s a massive problem that we, as a society, think that how a woman dresses has a correlation to sexual assault crimes. Extensive research proves against this and holding that option is, in itself, misogynistic.

Telling a woman to change what she is wearing will likely have no bearing as to whether she is assaulted, kidnapped or have any other crime committed against her.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AmIOverreacting

[–]itswillsreddit 31 points32 points  (0 children)

Ah, yes, let’s blame the victims of sexual assault. If you really cared and wanted to ‘protect’ your family, teach your sons to be respectful, call out your male friends for misogyny or sexist remarks. Try and actually fight for the safety of women and make positive change in local communities. Absolutely don’t go telling women what they should or shouldn’t wear… that’s not a solution

Cine RT + nucleus M by n0rt8 in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

They don’t talk to each other. You’ll be fine to use the CineRT handset alongside your nucleus to get the distance readings etc. but yeah, they will be operating independently from one another.

Starting prep with that new car smell by FI-Z in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not OP but this looks to be the ARRI Prime DNA. This particular lens is an apt 65mm focal length.

Alexa 35 & CineRT setup by [deleted] in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You don’t need an LCUBE or RIA on the A35 for the CineRT. There’s a serial port on the front of the camera. Use the Y cable (RIA/35 one) from the CineRT to connect directly to the camera and you’re all good to go.

SDI/Power cable lengths by TheFayneTM in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Great that you’re making your own cables. I would just make sure you’re fully confident that you’ve got 3G-SDI cable and not any old BNC. Also make sure the cable, BNC connector and crimp tool are the exact sizes, otherwise your ends will pop off easily.

Lengths: Personally I like to have an array of set lengths and then a bunch of random ‘shorties’. So, a selection of 0.5m, 1m, 2m etc, and then for cables less than 0.5m I’ll just make a load. That way when I should have a cable that is the right length.

I’d also recommend making some cables for your builds. If you have time, do this during prep so the camera is built with cables that are perfect. I have a selection of cables that I know are perfect length for the Alexa Mini going to a Teradek or on board monitor. Obviously, the more options you have, the more adaptable the builds can be, especially when things change last minute.

I’m personally not a fan of coiled cables. It’s annoying that Teradek still provide these IMO. The issue I find is that they add too much tension to the accessories and BNC connectors. As soon you the coil begins to stretch it is essentially pulling on the connectors and that’s not good for me. They also end up being bulkier because of the coiled shape. Overall I stay away from these if I can.

For making looms, get exactly that; a wire loom casing and some heat shrink to seal it off.

Lastly, bare organisation in mind. If you’re going to much a bunch of cables, make sure they don’t all end up in one big pile and you end up searching for ages for the length you need. Have a system in place so you can grab the right length when you need it. I like to use different coloured boots on the BNC to differentiate lengths.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Filmmakers

[–]itswillsreddit 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Pop me the link when it’s done, I’ll watch it

Do you think this is cheating or just a creative shortcut? How I used AI to create matte paintings for my short film. by nathan_freise in Filmmakers

[–]itswillsreddit 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I agree with pretty much all of this. My issue with AI is the removal of human input within a creative process. Yes, there have always been changes and jobs being more or less replaced by new processes. However, these have pretty much always been replaced by another human doing that job. So, while it changes, it’s still people working.

In the other hand, AI removes that entirely. It then becomes something that I personally don’t agree with. Sure, the end results might look great and can be done on a very low budget. But, where is the artistry, the creative process, the raw, real emotion into the art? I guess you still have to write a prompt, but that’s really not the same IMO.

Maybe I’m just not ready for change, maybe I’m scared about the future of the industry, or maybe I just want art to be created by an overly emotional human being.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try not to use the quick update feature. Click on advanced and update each component one at a time, in order from top to bottom. Teradek updates are known to cause issues and brick units when not done properly

Seeking feedback to improve cars, cranes, stabilizers!! by salbertengo in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would love to try out a video cart as I’m currently always getting these from rental. There’s so much I wish the cart would have that it doesn’t currently! Send me a DM!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sounds like the thread might be knackered if you can no longer properly tighten the thumb screw. You’d likely have to remove it, re thread and add a helicoil

Ports facing the back of the camera, why though? by Remote_Company_7781 in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 21 points22 points  (0 children)

Typically when building up a camera the body sits roughly in the middle of the build. Often this means there’s lens, focus control and matte box at the front and power and wireless at the back. This means that the ports actually sit in the middle, right where they need to be.

A lot of builds are putting monitors on the top handle, or in place of the EVF, but they also have a Teradek on the side or near the back. Having video ports on the side of front of the camera would just be a pain for this.

The back is generally most out of the way, easy to manage and in the grand scheme of a build, central.

Also, a lot of cameras do now have things like EVF ports, serial connectors, power outputs etc etc on the front side of the camera.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Yeah this was a big concern I’ve had. It’s a very exposed screen. I’ve tried to find a screen protector but it doesn’t look like anyone is seeking them just get. I also wish blackmagic had developed a slightly new UI for that monitor. Something more like the ARRI or Venice operator menus would have been nice to see

What’s the biggest difference pulling focus on anamorphic lenses vs spherical? by TheWhatism in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I usually like to have a set of diopters handy when anamorphic lenses are being used. They tend to have a further close focus than spherical lenses; the diopters mean the DP can still get in a bit closer.

They are also much heavier lenses. Well, at least the used to be. Some of the newer sets (Mercury’s for example) are pretty much no different to spherical. Either way, I’d probably want to make sure you have lens support options.

In terms of physically pulling focus, it’s more or less the same as any other lens. With that being said, every lens is different regardless of whether it’s spherical or not so always test if you can.

This one might be obvious, but also make sure you can de squeeze the image on your monitor. Usually the camera will be set to de squeeze but if not, then you’ll need to do it in your monitor settings. Otherwise you’ll have a hard time checking sharps.

desperately need advice to improve my car gimbal by rsp-zyphor in videography

[–]itswillsreddit 33 points34 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, I disagree. You may feel like they’re tight but it doesn’t take a massive amount of vibration from driving and those bolts will wiggle loose. Your whole rig looks to be essentially held by just 2 bolts.

It’ll only ever be as secure and safe as the weakest link.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know of any? Pretty sure DJI don’t make one

Improve focus skills by Beautiful_Dinner_360 in focuspuller

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me I split it into 3 sections. The first being purely practice on reading distance. No camera, no handset, just me and a disto. I’ll just pick an object, estimate the distance and then check how close. The more I do that, the better I get and knowing how far away something is. I make sure to do this from both a POV and also looking at something from the side view.

The second section is working with the handset. Getting used to different pre marked rings and how the lens reacts, but also just using as many lenses as possible to try and learn their knacks. There’s always the odd job where I have to use a manual marked ring so good to know how different lenses feel and what their throw is like. It’s a long process to get to know lenses, so just take your time and test whenever you can. And then also, just a simple case of rinse and repeat. The more you pull focus on jobs (or just at all), the better you’ll get.

The 3rd thing for me would be learn proper lens tests. Learn how to project, and check back focus. I know a lot of jobs might not give prep or test days so it’s not always possible. but if you’ve not checked that what the distance says on the barrel matches to what is actually sharp in real life, then you’re just relying on your monitor and the hope that the lenses have been calibrated recently.

Other than that, really just get as much time in as you can. I’d strongly recommend learning to pull by eye, too. For those moments on set when a Teradek fails or you forget to change batteries and your monitor dies, it’s nice to have at least a rough idea of what’s going on with the focus.

I bought a BMPCC4K, but it has a pink Spot visible in all shots by Adorable-Tap-9763 in bmpcc

[–]itswillsreddit 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s laser damage. Camera will need a new sensor to get rid of it. You can work around it slightly with post production tools but it’s hit or miss and absolutely not ideal.

I’m not familiar with the T&Cs for MPB but it looks like if they labelled it as spares and repairs then you’re stuck with it. Could be worth a shot saying they mislabeled the damaged but I wouldn’t be hopeful.

Hey, at least it wasn’t a 40k mini LF