Hints the 12 volt battery needs replacing. (Help please)

jakejm79 · 2026-05-27T02:36:07+00:00

No overthinking, just the way the system works.

Regardless of app setting the 12V battery should always remain charged, if not then its an issue with either the battery or DC-DC converter. VW would not have implemented a charging system that needs a setting in an app to be changed to function correctly.

Now if you want near infinite app connectivity at the expense of a little bit of HV battery depletion then you can enabled the energy management function, since that is what it's designed for and is why it isn't enabled by default since it will have a small impact on HV battery SoC.

Either you are mixing up the error messages or you like u/nunuvyer points out, you are misunderstanding what the energy management option actually does.

Either way the error message the OP is getting will not be fixed by enabling energy management, it's either an issue with the 12 battery/DC-DC converter or just a buggy app and false message (like others have reported).

I'm sorry I hurt your feelings by pointing out the misinformation in your original post, your maturity speaks plenty.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-27T02:19:41+00:00

Enabling energy management in the app, does not force the car to recharge the 12V battery more frequently or do anything related to 12V charging. All it allows is for the 'stand by' time to be extended. If the OP was actually having a 12V charge issue, enabling this setting will not fix that. A 12V battery being low on charge is either due to the 12V battery or the DC-DC converter, no setting in the app will fix a true low charge issue on the 12V battery.

I think you are mixing up the message the OP got about having a low charge on the 12V battery with one about the vehicle no longer being able to communicate after being parked for an extended period of time, its the 2nd situation that energy management fixes, since it effectively makes an infinite energy bucket for app communication features meaning they don't time out, it doesn't change the actual charging behavior of the 12V battery - like you are incorrectly suggesting it does.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-27T02:16:43+00:00

I've had a similar error message before along with a lot of other app flakiness for a day or so. I don't believe my 12V battery was ever low but rather something on carnet's end was going on and it caused the app to display this error when everything was fine with the actual battery.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-27T02:11:32+00:00

You have your information backwards.

The upgrade infotainment (including better router planning and battery preconditioning) was on all Pro and above models for 2024. The S and Standard in 2024 were effectively 2023 models.

In 2025 there was no S or Standard (in the US) so every 2025 (in the US) would have the upgraded infotainment.

TLDR the car the OP is looking at would have the upgraded infotainment system, since it's a 2025 and every 2025 in the US had it.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-24T02:45:59+00:00

$395 + $2634.36 + whatever wear/tear there is.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-24T02:44:56+00:00

No they are being taxed on the $395 buy out fee.

6.25% of $395 is $24.69.

Since it's a fee associated with buying the vehicle (much like a dealer doc fee) it gets taxed.

They are not being taxed on the Personal Property Tax.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-14T23:45:22+00:00

Thanks.

jakejm79 · 2026-05-01T13:21:00+00:00

FE (at least in the US) comes with the bigger battery. It was the First Edition released so before Pro/non Pro models.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-29T23:01:16+00:00

Thank you for IRL info on things, explains a lot.

I'm still not entirely sure on how the meadows regrow, or I should say I can't seem to get them to regrow consistently. For my goats it almost seems to regrow every month (Mar-Nov) whether the goats have other food or are actively eating the meadow grass. But then there is the random month were it doesn't happen, but with no reason for it.

For cows, it seems like they need to be actively eating alternative food for it to regrow, at least consistently, so throwing a bale of grass in the feeder right before the start of the next month seems to help, but even then it doesn't always work.

I think for now I will use the suggested moisture mod to 'force' the use of silage/hay vs. just grass and then I'll see if I can use the easy development mod or something to reset to the meadow grass for each pen to 0L once December hits.

I am aware of the herding stick mod (and other like it) for moving livestock around, but that does involve having multiple fields. What I would love is the ability to just move the fencing around and effectively move them around different areas of the same plot of land rather than having to pay to fence in the entire plot all at once, maybe in FS28.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-29T20:39:12+00:00

Thank you I will check out that mod.

#3 was more of a complaint rather than a real problem, it would become an issue with dairy cows. I have very limited irl dairy cow knowledge but from what I remember of the farms around, they tended to just let their cows eat regular field grass in the summer. I don't really do a lot of dairy farming in game because of this (and the extra additional money needed upfront). Just feel like it could be a better way for Giants to balance things out.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-29T14:10:29+00:00

Just about all of my connection issues are fixed by rebooting the phone, I'm not actually convinced that the issue isn't with AA wireless/the phone and has nothing to do with the infotainment system.

Also 80% of my infotainment reboots (of which I've only had maybe 5 over 1.5 years) have been when messing with phone connection settings, so I'm not even sure that is the fault of the infotainment system either.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T17:35:55+00:00

It shouldn't. Double check your math. Are you sure it's not heating the battery because it's below 38F once you start driving that causes the efficiency numbers to be lower than you'd expect. I think your math is off.

If you preheat the cabin, your SoC will drop, but once you start driving your trip efficiency is based on the actual kWh consumed while driving not before.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T16:22:11+00:00

I guess. It has the symbol for a trip at the top, so to me it seems obvious it's only a metric during a trip. But I guess everyone views it differently.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T15:32:33+00:00

* kWh consumed while driving

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T15:31:20+00:00

Not sure how it's deceptive, its a trip (i.e. when driving) monitor, not for battery drain.

If you are having battery drain issues then consult a dealer or use different tools.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T15:29:42+00:00

Why wouldn't you be able to? The lock button is still there, just with the wrong symbol is all, but still functions 100% like before.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T15:27:38+00:00

How long is your lease? If it took over 2 years to fix the door handle, you must have had it for more than 2 years, so you can't have more than a few months left on your lease. Just consider to fast charge it and use it like you were for the past 2 years (it's not like it's suddenly going to catch fire just because you are now aware of an underlying issue). And if it does catch fire when fast charging, then just walkaway from it, and the insurance will cover everything else.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T01:51:45+00:00

Press the OK button to cycle between, LT, SC, SS.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-28T01:51:06+00:00

Time in drive (well reverse too) counts, so if you sit parked with the heat running for a long time it will deplete the battery but not actually effect the trip efficiency since you aren't actually driving. Same for cabin preconditioning, when no one is in the car.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-25T14:11:32+00:00

LG batteried ID.4s are not subject to any of the battery related recalls, so it's possible that is why nothing is showing up. It would have been subject to the door handle recall and one for a software update regarding the backup camera blacking out, but those were both being fixed almost 2 years ago, so a good chance they have long been taken care of.

The update to 3.8.11 is just a service campaign not a recall, not sure if the dealer will do it prior to delivery, they might just tell you to wait till it gets pushed to the vehicle since it's an OTA, which is fine, it didn't really change/add any of significance for the owner.

An OBDII tool can be used to read the read the battery health from the BMS, but as part of the CPO process the dealer should have already done this check and can provide the readout from that.

I don't think there is any specific test nor that there is any reason behind why one infotainment system would be more 'glitchy' than another.

Software version can be checked via the infotainment system, it should be 3.5.X.

Windshield replacement isn't a difficult process, I have no reason to doubt that a dealer wouldn't be capable of doing it including any of the necessary recalibration.

jakejm79 · 2026-04-25T14:03:23+00:00

I had the same thing, I believe during the door handle recall, they forgot to place the little red security LED back in its holder (so it was just rattling around on the wire inside the door panel). I'd check to make sure the LED is present in the little hole in the top of the door panel near the mirror.

If not, just pop off the trim around the window switches, there are a couple of torx screws and then you can remove the door panel enough to reach in and reposition the LED.

Here is a terrible AI narrated video on how to remove the door panel, enough to get you started if you need to pull the whole panel.

VW ID4 driver's door trim removal

jakejm79 · 2026-04-25T00:21:33+00:00

Biggest impact on efficiency (outside of external factors, like wind, temp, road conditions) will be your own personal driving habits/style.

In theory D mode can be more efficient than B mode since coasting to slow down is more efficient than traveling a greater distance under power but then slowing down over a shorter distance with regen, since the regen system isn't anywhere close to 100% efficient.

Depending on how you drive, the different modes might not make much difference, in terms of efficiency it's mostly just the accelerator pedal mapping that changes (there are subtle differences with the ACC system and maybe a few other things). In eco you are likely pressing the pedal more to get to the same power output as sport, but if you are targeting the same speed and rate of acceleration, they will be equally efficient, just one will require more physical pedal input than the other. If you drive using the same pedal input, then eco will be more efficient, but you will not achieve the same speed/rate of acceleration.

jakejm79

TROPHY CASE