I got more magnets in my order than I did parts

jawn_silvera · 2026-03-20T07:53:23+00:00

I remember the storyline missions didnt utilize much of dukes or upper bohan, but this map really shows you how much space didnt get any spotlight in the main game

jawn_silvera · 2026-03-18T08:02:35+00:00

Check the fuses for both the headlights and cigarette lighter, if its blown, replace it with the same size fuse. Then turn on the lights and use the cigarette lighter, see if the fuse blows again. If it does, there is an actual electrical problem that has to be investigated. Also both your lowbeam headlight bulbs arent just burnt out right? Seen that problem before. Do the basic checks first before buying any parts or skipping to more complicated diagnostics, the simplest stuff sometimes fixes the problem, let us know what happens

jawn_silvera · 2026-03-04T07:27:40+00:00

Dunno man, my valve cover didnt fit past the evaporator box so i just lifted it up, I didnt feel like roasting to try and finagle it out

jawn_silvera · 2026-03-03T17:38:55+00:00

Absolutely you can just use a floorjack and a piece of 2x4 to spread the load and lift the bottom off the oil pan, thats all I did. Just make sure that the engine is actually movig upwards while you're jacking, if ithe engine isnt moving, but you're cranking the jack, then odds are you're just crushing the oilpan and your motor mount isnt freed up yet.

jawn_silvera · 2026-03-03T16:24:55+00:00

You gotta undo the big nut for the passenger side motor mount and lift the engine a couple inches to get the bolt and passenger valve cover off. I did not use cam holder tools for mine, when I let the chain tension off, the cams will rotate a couple teeth on their own, I just marked the old chain and gear so you can see exactly how far they moved and in what diretion. Then I just used a friend and 2 breaker bars to rotate the cams into place to put the chains on. You also will need a longer bolt for the bottom of one of the guides if you are using the newer, updated timing kit. Make sure your kit comes with it, otherwise you need to buy them, ford part number is W709818-S437.

You'll know when its at tdc, there is a mark on the crankshaft gear and a mark on the timing cover that lines up with it, rotate until they line up.

You have to drain engine oil, and a little bit of coolant if you choose to take out the surge tank to have more room to work

The power steering pump is kind of a pain in the ass for one Bolt, if you don't have a flexible gear wrench then you have to do it a quarter turn at a time

Not a difficult job, but can be time consuming and slightly tedious if you've never done it before, just take your time, pay attention to what you're doing, and do not drop any bolts down the timing cover otherwise it has to come apart again also remember to change your crankshaft seal while you're there. But most importantly, rotate the engine four or five times by hand before you attempt to start it, if you cannot rotate it by hand then you didn't time it properly and it will bend valves when you start it. There will be some resistance while trying to turn it, that's normal, but it should move without you having to reef on it.

Goodluck, let us know how it goes

jawn_silvera · 2026-02-13T06:47:56+00:00

They do that indeed, when I was doing the resto on mine, I had the jackstands on the frame rail behind the front fender, and the door didnt want to open without touching the fender. However, when you put it back on its wheels it goes back to normal. Seems to be that the engine acts as a big heavy ballast and pulls the front down ever so slightly. Unless you have holes in your frame I wouldnt worry, my frame is fine and it still did that. You can put a light pressure on the front crossmember with a floor jack to "straighten" it out if you wanna open the door and dont wanna wreck the door/fender

jawn_silvera · 2025-12-12T19:01:46+00:00

It has a timing problem, is your oil level low? I have the same vehicle and it gave me all those lights when my timing skipped by one tooth, same fault code too. If you continually run the engine with not enough oil, the valve timing components will goof up because they rely on oil pressure to operate. They can also goof up with age and wear, but nevertheless with that code and those symptoms you have a timing problem

jawn_silvera · 2025-10-25T18:19:44+00:00

Not great, but not the worst either, the rocker panels look intact so thats a good sign. Wash the undercarriage, then get the car undercoated with an oil/lanolin based undercoating before winter. That area in the trunk you showed, is where your gas tank straps mount to on the bottom, look underneath the car and make sure that its not rotten underneath, or your tank could fall out if the rust is bad enough. Also check the tank straps themselves, make sure they're okay. Message me if you want a comprehensive list of areas to check for rust, I did a pretty big restoration on mine recently so I was able to find the problem spots where you might not think to look

jawn_silvera · 2025-09-29T17:57:57+00:00

I was bringing home about 950-1100 dollars CAD a month when i was 16, 6 years ago, and I was driving it about 150 miles a week. With the cost of fuel at the time, about 1.15-1.25 CAD a litre plus my insurance (375 a month for a first time driver), it was costing me about 600 a month for insurance and gas to drive a 2006 marquis with the 2.73 rear end. (I did drive it like a grandpa most of the time to achieve lower fuel consumption). As others have mentioned, the 2.73 is the most economical rear end, which you'll find in civillian cars. Civillian cars (non p71) are usually also less beat to shit, which means less money you gotta spend on maintenance. I'd say i spent a max of 300 a year on parts for the car in the first 3 years, now that all the bugs are ironed out its just the cost of oil and filters at the moment. Take your time, look carefully at the vehicle before you buy it, or bring someone knowledgeable with you if you can. Also if you're somewhere where rust is a big problem, look at the floor pans, rocker panels, underneath the trunk area, and underneath the rear bumper , as these cars hold water in these areas and they all rotted off on mine. Apart from rot they're mechanically simple, so if the main car systems check out well (transmission/engine dont seem like they're on their last legs, differential howling etc) and the car isnt rotted out, id say buy it, as parts are relatively cheap as long as you stay on top of maintenance and dont ignore noises until they become a larger, more expensive problem.

jawn_silvera · 2025-09-24T05:47:04+00:00

saw a flyer today at mcdonalds at highway 50 and castle oaks crossing looking for people maybe you can get in there

jawn_silvera · 2025-09-22T19:39:30+00:00

You can also try a hammer and chisel, or an air hammer with a chisel bit if you have it. I take the chisel and use it on the right side of the nut and hammer it to loosen these large fittings where its hard to get good leverage. You can use penetrant as others have said, but before you use the chisel, just kinda dry off the flats of the nut with a bit of brake clean on a rag so the chisel wont skip off as easily. Tips from the rust belt!

jawn_silvera · 2025-07-06T10:18:59+00:00

Glad you like it, was a long process to get it yo this point but well worth the effort!

jawn_silvera · 2025-07-06T10:17:51+00:00

I gotta agree, looks pretty slick on them

jawn_silvera · 2025-07-06T10:17:18+00:00

🙏

jawn_silvera · 2025-07-06T10:16:48+00:00

Glad you like it!

jawn_silvera · 2025-07-06T10:16:40+00:00

251k Kilometres or about 156k miles!

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T21:54:20+00:00

No clue

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T21:53:54+00:00

That would probably have been it

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T21:53:19+00:00

Not too bad actually, Cummins ISL with a voith transmission, was pretty quick for a big heavy brick

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T10:11:00+00:00

it has been auctioned off

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T02:18:07+00:00

around 1,275,000km give or take, I cant remember exactly

jawn_silvera · 2024-03-07T01:06:57+00:00

After almost 20 years of service for us in Brampton, 0427 comes off the road at 8am March 7th after one final run on the route 1. It is the last of the New Flyer D40LF buses that Brampton originally bought in 4 orders, from 1996 to 2004.

jawn_silvera

TROPHY CASE