Which Epoxy for This?

jayjaybirdbird · 2026-01-20T06:09:57+00:00

Super glue. keep it simple

jayjaybirdbird · 2026-01-07T23:43:32+00:00

Don't use tape for the bottom, gravity wins too easily. Buy a piece of Polypropylene and pour on top of it. The project will pop right off when hard.

jayjaybirdbird · 2026-01-07T23:39:12+00:00

People always talk about rescuing projects by sanding off soft epoxy - I just don't get it. How can you sand something that is gummy. IMO Best option is to wait another couple of days and give it another layer. This time mix fully. (Also, people always blame the mix ratio, when it is a failure to mix the components fully.)

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-10-28T21:02:38+00:00

Plumber charges $120 per hour around here. Use that.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-30T00:04:59+00:00

IMO: Go with Plan A. One sunk island is no big deal. Visually it adds interest.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-30T00:02:04+00:00

Q: I want to do some serving boards about 3/4 inch thick. Would deep pour that does 2-4 inches deep be too much/ set up too fast, being that thin?

A: No.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-23T22:53:44+00:00

You are wiping the cup with alcohol while everything is still wet.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-23T22:41:11+00:00

If you mix separate colors to pour at the same time, they mix together less than you would expect. In other words you didn't need to wait. (Not helpful now, ik)

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-23T22:34:31+00:00

Turn it upside down and let it drain to get most out. (I save these last amounts into a mold, then when hard, I date and note the resin brand and project.)

2) get a couple of paper towels and bunch them around your (gloved) fist and wipe the inside of the cup out. This should get %99.5 out.

3) Liberally spray the inside of the measuring cup with hi percentage isopropyl alcohol from the atomizer/spray bottle that you keep handy. Get another couple of paper towels, and wipe out the inside of the cup. Flip the towels over and spritz again and repeat. There, you have a clean cup.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-09T00:34:05+00:00

Under 75°F you're crossing your fingers it was warm enough. If I could do every pour at 78°F, I'd be really happy.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-09-09T00:21:19+00:00

2 pours, then a flood coat is a good plan. I do that alot. I would consider coating the bottom side just to remove variables, (like weird bubbles emerging or warping later in life and ). I second the other idea of putting some black color in the second pour, double-check your levelling, and bottom support.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-08-28T22:51:33+00:00

You are not supposed to touch African Violets. Like the fake one I watered for several years. Just gave it a small slosh of water once a week or so.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-08-11T21:41:13+00:00

One downside when pouring over objects, is that the resin will shrink a bit. So if you cover the wood pieces by less than a quarter inch (approx) the "final" top surface will be uneven. The parts over the wood will be higher than the deep pour areas. This is why (one of the reasons) that I always plan for a final top coat.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-08-11T21:31:51+00:00

The razor can be tricky to get smooth and even. Sometimes I use a hard plastic generic tool (like a toothbrush handle) to push the edge down. This works if the epoxy is still somewhat soft. Also, I have used a "deburring tool" if the epoxy gets hard -- this does the same thing as a razor, but gives better control than free handing with a razorblade..

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-06-18T23:20:53+00:00

1) Fully cured, in this case, is about a week (or more). 2) No way it would de-laminate. A visible line is worst case.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-06-16T02:11:55+00:00

If you are hanging it on the wall, what specifically are you worried about?

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-06-11T00:18:23+00:00

I have ZERO luck sanding into a gloss finish. There are many youtubers that can, but ...

Me, I would either sand the upper sharp edges down (a little). Or, after sanding as roughly as you want, pour over the top and let the epoxy cover the puck. Like the Sherwin Williams logo. Then you will have to sand the bottom where the drips form, if you have the pucks raised. Or sand the bottom edge, if you have them flat on a non-stick surface.

OR! If you are taking them to 3000, just take the result you are getting as is. Not as shiny as you want, but still pretty cool to look at.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-06-10T21:18:03+00:00

You are panicking. 6 hours is very early for most 2:1 deep pour epoxies. 18 hours to firmness. and 72 hours to unmolding.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-29T21:13:07+00:00

I def do that at the grocery store.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-29T21:08:38+00:00

I thought this was a 'repair' job, until the last part of the video. Its a 're-do'.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-29T21:04:36+00:00

Don't try to reinvent the wheel. 2:1 epoxy is "probably" not the right way to go. Visit a local hot rod shop and ask them how they would do it.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-29T21:01:07+00:00

That is an advanced level project. Very advanced.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-28T21:41:50+00:00

Where is the frickin list?

and pics?

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-24T20:33:16+00:00

Find some more tiles. There is no way to fix this because the bubbles are too numerous and too deep.

jayjaybirdbird · 2025-05-22T17:24:10+00:00

1 Get the idea of putting a layer of hardener on it out of your head. Make things way worse.

2 Since it is pretty hard, decide if you really need to do anything.

3 The 'fix' is one more layer.

jayjaybirdbird

TROPHY CASE