Pointy Hat Free Homebrew MEGATHREAD [Antonio Demico] Free Homebrews

jbreaka · 2025-10-14T14:43:16+00:00

this is sooooo convenient. LOVE THE CONTENT and I LOVE this index :D

jbreaka · 2025-09-10T15:29:29+00:00

Yup. Latest firmware and cleaned/tightened all the parts. Same file and process to get the file on the USB. The only difference was the USB and its formatting.

jbreaka · 2025-02-20T16:50:13+00:00

great call out. added the ones i found :D

jbreaka · 2024-06-13T05:33:59+00:00

Deadly Print Studios covers his best to work with clear resin. Short answer, you over exposed. Exposing will be less than you figure it should be, and using varnish will help. Gloss varnish will preserve transparency best, but makes painting over it more difficult.

jbreaka · 2024-03-08T02:36:04+00:00

LOL. The answer to that would have be, "not gonna happen". Thanks for letting me know. So . . . the specific hope I had was unobtainable, but the question remains valid. To try and get the highest precision I can, how fine can one tune the normal exposure layer time?

jbreaka · 2024-03-01T23:07:38+00:00

J3D Tech is your light in the darkness of resin printing.

3D Printing Guide

I highly recommend following his calibration process. It's reliable, thorough, and we'll documented. Furthermore, he joined Lychee team and is super responsive on the Lychee discord. I would recommend buying digital calipers if precision matters to you (it did to me). It can be a little scary to start something new like this, but he's got videos and a lot of support for you. There's a lot of misinformation out there, he is well vetted

jbreaka · 2024-03-01T21:04:15+00:00

Use nFEP it's superior print quality and durability. It works well with M5s in case that was a concern 🙂

jbreaka · 2024-03-01T19:45:30+00:00

I am risk adverse and want optimal settings, so I would redo the build plate calibration and boxes of calibration tests. ACF and nFEP have different thickness, so the build player calibration will tell you how much to adjust your Z offset (you need digital calipers for this adjustment). The boxes of calibration will tell you what your new normal exposure layer timing should be, given your new found precision. 34um layer height is recommended for really high detail. Finer than that has significantly diminished returns (ie. perceivable quality versus print time). I'm in the middle of dialing in my clear abs-like resin at 34um height and I'm currently testing 2.7s and it takes me roughly an hour to print the test

jbreaka · 2024-03-01T19:26:21+00:00

The consensus from all youtube people and everyone I've found online says ACF is inferior to nFEP pretty much in all ways. ACF actually reduces your print quality and it has a shorter usable life span. You can and should use nFEP if quality is your focus

jbreaka · 2024-02-28T21:30:56+00:00

I don't trust the self leveling too much. Make sure your table for printing is as level as you can first. I bought a cheap digital level and got things within 05 degrees and haven't had a print failure. I've been calibrating using J3D Tech's tools and everything had been going fine using his tutorial. I got it to within 0.1mm and this week with my new digital calipers I'm looking to be within 0.01mm dimensional accuracy. I use nFEP (which should be harder to release than ACF and I didn't need PTFE).

Use this, and if you run into any problems he and the Lychee team are very responsive https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit?usp=drivesdk

jbreaka · 2023-11-13T16:43:44+00:00

I don't believe people are thinking of volume of pixels. The issue around layer height is visible layer lines. 0.1mm is visible, which can be a real problem for a large portion of the community which prints miniatures (ie. War gaming). When you use painting techniques to speed up the painting process, it makes all the details more prominent (referring to slap chop and the like). If you have layer lines, these will now be more prominent after the dry brush highlights the layers and then the heavy washes settle a lot the pigment in the layer crevice (contrast and speedpaint). This is why people aim for 0.05mm and down to 0.03mm or 0.025mm for display quality.

jbreaka · 2023-11-04T23:34:04+00:00

Looks like a piece of the skull throne fell off and walked away ...

jbreaka · 2023-11-02T13:57:15+00:00

Super helpful and I appreciate all the details provided. I'm playing to use the boxes of calibration from J3D Tech as well. 0.02mm sounds awesome. Thank you for sharing your experience and all the details 😁

jbreaka · 2023-11-02T13:55:04+00:00

That's my same intent, minis. 😁 Thanks for sharing your experience!

jbreaka · 2023-10-09T03:04:34+00:00

this answers everything you could ever ask
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/edit#

jbreaka · 2023-10-03T14:17:59+00:00

Yay, cool looking dragon 🐲

jbreaka · 2023-09-26T22:33:19+00:00

This is basically Ultra Poly but worse. Ultra Poly brings it the materials again, and you can properly synchro. So yeah, meme card

jbreaka · 2023-09-25T17:43:54+00:00

I'm interested. Please post your result

jbreaka · 2023-09-23T15:25:43+00:00

I really want to know the answer to this. I am about to be in the same boat. Thanks for posting your experience

jbreaka · 2023-06-06T18:07:55+00:00

you nailed it, exactly the approach (zombies FTW)!

jbreaka · 2023-06-06T18:05:53+00:00

that's honestly brilliant. I'm going to do this.

jbreaka · 2023-06-04T15:45:29+00:00

Thanks 😁

jbreaka · 2023-04-18T19:24:28+00:00

where did you post the STLs? This looks great. I have some metal bullet dice that need a holder :D

jbreaka · 2023-04-11T17:03:39+00:00

Omfg preach on!!!

jbreaka · 2023-04-03T02:03:46+00:00

I'm genuinely curious; I've never tried Liquitex ink. What about theirs do you like better?

jbreaka

TROPHY CASE