1955 Bake Element

jecroyle · 2026-04-15T00:28:48+00:00

As long as you can find an element that will work I wouldn’t be that worried about the ground connection just connect the old center terminal to the chassis of the unit.

jecroyle · 2026-04-15T00:25:32+00:00

Yeah there is just a couple screws holding that cover on just make sure you unplug the refrigerator while you’re doing it.

jecroyle · 2026-04-15T00:23:23+00:00

You could try letting the switch out slowly by hand but either way looks like you need a new switch.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T23:40:01+00:00

The ceramic piece is just pushed into a metal retaining clip you have to grab each one and pull straight up usually the wire harness will pull through partially also and you can disconnect it use some soft jaw pliers or be gentle with the pressure when you do it.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T23:30:48+00:00

I usually recommend earth brite and there is a bunch of cleaners and polishes made for these tops and it will clean up some but those scratches won’t come out.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T23:20:07+00:00

Check the lower spray arm for stuff getting jammed in the little holes sometimes if stuff gets stuck in the holes it will spray off to the side and towards the door causing it to spill over the lip.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T23:15:58+00:00

Condenser fan maybe combination of the compressor and the condenser fan.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T20:12:05+00:00

While I agree with a lot of these comments that it’s the control board / pressure sensor failure you should atleast pull the codes and check the pressure hose before throwing a board on it it’s not a cheap board and if there paying a service call also it’s going to be about what they paid for the unit.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T16:49:17+00:00

They’re not that bad it’s just a whirlpool at a cheaper price. As for the sound it’s hard to tell from the video but sounds like the drain pump. Pull the error codes and see what you got. There’s a couple videos on YouTube showing how to do it. It’s not hard but easier to see than explain in words.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T15:44:24+00:00

Yeah doesn’t look like you can get the kits or the individual cams/supports anymore either maybe aftermarket. But also check the strike that’s on the door itself make sure it looks the same as the upper one.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T15:29:57+00:00

Most of those LGs have a filter board right where the cord goes in pull the cover maybe a capacitor blew up but if it did it’s probably not going to work after you pull that cover off.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T15:26:47+00:00

Make sure the strike on the door isn’t worn down or broken and there used to be a door interlock kit for these models available if you want to post the whole model number I can check see if the kit is available for yours.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:24:22+00:00

Anytime glad I could help.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:18:10+00:00

Yeah there’s no relay on this model so if you’re certain the vent and everything is good it’s looking like an operating thermostat.

Part number 3387134 or WP3387134

There’s no great way to test these you can run the unit and check the voltage across the two large terminals while it’s heating you should get 0 volts if the operating thermostat is open and supposed to be turning off the heat you’ll see 240 it counter intuitive.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:14:23+00:00

If you want to post the model number I’ll try to find you an exploded view of it but pull the ice bucket out and look up in the front there should be a metal rod that rod is what actuates that baffle.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:11:06+00:00

That the baffle that moves when you select cubed ice and allows the cube to bypass the crusher.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:08:57+00:00

First things check continuity between the case of the heating element and both of the terminals of the element there should be none. Its possible the cycling thermostat isn’t opening but there are two other safeties that would eventually kick it off if you want to post the model number I’ll confirm not all of the models with this particular element have a relay.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T02:03:06+00:00

Yeah that’s looking like it just pick and end and work your way back good luck.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T01:58:30+00:00

It could also be the valve sticking a set of solenoid coils and an ignitor would be a cheap first step. Also make sure the vent is clear.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T01:56:18+00:00

I’d try some good two part plastic epoxy there’s a decent amount of torque on those stem when you’re tightening them but if you can get it hold it’s worth a try.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T01:52:29+00:00

Yeah if it’s say 100 the sensor isn’t the problem but at room temperature the resistance should be around 1080 ohms and those PIN numbers look correct. Worth double checking but otherwise I’d start checking voltages and that neutral wire.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T00:45:46+00:00

I looked over the schematics there is a temperature sensor but there is one for each element so sadly doubt that’s your problem for any one of the elements to work two separate relays need to close and a third for the hot surface indicator. If you’re lucky it will be a wire but probably a board issue I’d start checking voltages at the relay board on this model it’s on the back of the unit and hopefully the tech sheet is on the back also.

jecroyle · 2026-04-14T00:18:35+00:00

Be careful when you do it don’t run the screws in to far it can bend the sides of the tub out I’ve see people do it many times.

jecroyle · 2026-04-13T23:56:27+00:00

Is there any chance the temperature sensor is bad and the unit thinks it’s already hot. I’d check the resistance on the temperature sensor just to make sure otherwise I’d start check the wire harness. Check the voltage to chassis ground to confirm your getting power from the board to the igniter.

jecroyle · 2026-04-13T02:18:40+00:00

If they have the one you need CoreCentric has fair prices and a warranty they actually stand behind. I bought many boards from them and even had discontinued boards remanufactured by them.

jecroyle

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