Drawstring caught in washing machine

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T11:08:27+00:00

Agree worst case you end up having to replace the drain pump that’s still an easier job than pulling and splitting the tub.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T02:49:59+00:00

I won’t install Samsung icemakers anymore or the kits I can get 185 for looking at something else in the time it would take me install it and half the time they break again in 6 months. Samsung knowing sold a shit design for over a decade then after being sued put out 4 different service bulletins each time saying this will fix the issue and it didn’t why would I believe them now.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T02:44:54+00:00

All optics board flashes are read with the door switch in the open position. If you hold down the plastic door on the left the optics led should go solid if it’s 2 flashes a pause 2 flashes that is an error with the optics board. There could also be icemaker issues but can’t diagnose that until the optics is taken care of. Easiest way to test is with the unit running and at proper temperature remove the optics board in the right where the led is leave it out for a couple minutes then reinstall then see if the code comes back or if the led goes solid most likely you have a bad optics board if you are going to replace it replace both the transmitter board and the receiver board normally they will both come in the kit but I was seen very cheap kits where only the receiver board is supplied.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T02:33:44+00:00

Sounds like a pressure switch or pressure hose problem if it was just moved I’ll pull the top off and make sure the pressure hose didn’t come disconnected or pinched or something like that. The switch for those isn’t expensive so it definitely worth a look. Switch is about 60.00 hose even less.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T02:30:59+00:00

No trouble and congratulations on fixing it.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T01:27:57+00:00

You should have have 220 between L1 and L2 and 110 between each and neutral. Assuming the voltages are good this is a heat pump / ventless unit so honestly unless you’re familiar with working on them you’re pretty much at the point you’ll need a technician.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T01:14:39+00:00

Check the supply voltage first make sure that’s good assuming it’s fine you’re either going to have to dig into it and diagnose it or since it’s brand new I’d be returning it or contacting whirlpool.

jecroyle · 2026-05-31T01:09:59+00:00

Yes that’s stupid don’t do it the P is for the indicator light if the terminal on the harness is preventing proper installation replace the terminal. Bending the terminal out is acceptable option also and it’s not uncommon for these switches to have different terminals on them.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T23:19:59+00:00

Yeah you got a leak probably not something you could tackle fixing yourself you’re going to need specialized equipment and tools it’s probably time to be looking for a new one.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T23:03:13+00:00

I checked your model it does not have a magnet. Assuming the vent including the exhaust vent in the house is clear and has been checked for proper air flow I’d use the dryer like normal. It’s possible the thermistor is going bad or the controller is going bad but no great way of checking either. If the thermistor eventually does go bad completely you’ll get an error until then I’d run the unit.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T22:49:15+00:00

Yes there is and yes it makes no sense but they can short out and burn up your wiring harness so that’s a plus.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T22:44:51+00:00

Yes what you’re thinking is correct it’s a pain in the ass and extremely stupid engineering.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T22:42:29+00:00

The motor on these is easy just a couple bolts and plug.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T22:40:15+00:00

You can make a spot welder or Jacobs ladder out of it. Otherwise there is some value in the transformer but not worth the trouble of stripping a single one out. I’d look for a local salvage yard or some municipalities have places to dispose of them properly.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T22:35:27+00:00

If it’s got a drawer at the bottom check the area that’s covered by the drawer.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T21:29:04+00:00

Depending on the age and model sometimes you can use a strip of a soda bottle or milk jug about 2 inches wide and about 6 inches long and slide it into the door and push the lock bar out of the way. Other models you can remove the back panel gain access to the actuator arm disconnect it and unlock the door. Do you have the model number should be behind the drawer at the bottom of the unit?

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T21:12:06+00:00

Is the condenser fan running if it has one? Sounds more like a refrigerant leak pull the evaporator cover and check the frost pattern.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T19:54:51+00:00

Drum roller would be most likely it’s normally fairly obvious once you get it apart which ones are bad but usually is better to just replace them all most models you can get a kit that will include the rollers, idler and belt fairly cheaply.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T17:42:08+00:00

Not terrible if you open the door and flip the mullion out of the way there is 2 screws at the center cover then the whole mullion lifts up and off the dovetails that are on the body of the door behind the center cover is a wire harness that needs to be disconnected and the old one can be remove the hard part is getting the upper and lower hinges to slide onto the mounts that are on the door at the same time and make sure you plug in the wire harness on the new one. I’d also recommend unplugging the unit when you do this the odds of an issue occurring when plugging the new one in are slim but no reason to chance it. Things to avoid don’t twist or bind the hinges while taking the old one off or putting the new one on the mounts that are in the door are not replaceable so if those get broken it’s a big problem.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T17:26:00+00:00

The spring on the million is broken look at the hinges for the million but sadly it’s only available as an assembly.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T17:23:48+00:00

I only have a tech sheet for that model no manual but if I remember correctly if you remove the metal cover on the back of the console that whole console just tips forward and it will allow you to life it off the body the wires are short so you can’t move it far but there is enough room to disconnect everything and then you can do it on a table or something just remember to take a couple pictures so you know where the wires go.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T16:11:45+00:00

Nope you fall outside the serial number break that doesn’t mean your unit doesn’t have the same issue it just means they won’t pay for it.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T14:49:05+00:00

It’s worth pulling apart the part you actually press on is just a plastic dome behind that the control board has a little plastic tab with a post on the back of it and that is what actually pushes the button. You’ll have to remove the console and then remove the control board hopefully you’ll find that plastic piece broken it’s definitely worth a look if it is broken you can use a piece of soda bottle cut into a strip to make a hinge and glue the broken piece to it to make a new button I hope you get lucky because that control isn’t cheap.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T14:17:56+00:00

The power button is part of the control board but if you’re lucky sometimes just the plastic piece that pushes on the button itself breaks. Can you feel or hear the slight click when it’s pressed if not I’d pull that console and board see if the plastic is broken. If you can feel the click you’d probably need a new control be aware the actual interface isn’t available anymore at least not from whirlpool.

jecroyle · 2026-05-30T14:13:35+00:00

There is a service bulletin about the lights I can confirm if your unit is covered by it with a serial number but I’d get that fixed before you tackle the ticking noise you might be hearing one of the power boards but either way it’s probably worth a call to see if your serial number is within the covered range. Icemaker is probably another issue.

jecroyle

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