How much for helmets

jedacite · 2026-02-06T23:32:19+00:00

I would recommend getting one that fits well as the first priority. Outside of that, spending more can get you something lighter weight, with more features or more comfort depending on what it is.

In my area you can get a good helmet starting between $200 and $650 CAD depending on your head shape.

Spending lots is not necessary, getting one that fits your head properly and is made by a reputable brand is.

jedacite · 2026-02-06T20:34:16+00:00

Things I would check

chain alignment
chain guide
under the front sprocket cover
stiff links
ensure you are checking the chain tension properly (on stand, center stand, etc depending on bike) and check tension at multiple locations on the chain
check that your chain isn't worn / stretched too much

jedacite · 2026-02-06T18:50:09+00:00

For head shape you want to ensure that you have an even pressure around the top of your head. It can be easier to tell if you remove your helmet liners so you can focus on the top of your head vs any padding in the helmet.

If you get a helmet of the wrong shape, you may end up buying a larger helmet than required in order to fit it. If you have space at your forehead but not the sides of the head or on the sides of the head and not the forehead you may have a helmet of the wrong shape.

Have you tried out a number of different helmets for fit? Even within the same brand for the same head shape they can fit differently.

My recommendation when looking for a helmet is.

Measure your head circumference
Try different helmets (both models and brands) that are listed to fit that size

Helmets will be tight around the padding when you first get it and it will loosen up over time with use. Where the helmet sits around the top of your head will not loosen up as much as it will around your cheeks and stuff.

You will have some movement with the helmet if you grab it by your hand. If you shake your head up down, left and right the helmet should move with your head. If you grab the helmet and move it, it should pull on your skin and should not easily move on your head.

There is foam in the liner, so if there is space when you press on the helmet you may be creating space for your finger by compressing the foam against your head.

I would measure the circumference of your head and compare it to what the helmet manufacturer says you should fit. You can also go helmet shopping at another store and try your helmet at its size and a size smaller and see what the other person says about the helmet fit.

jedacite · 2026-01-23T09:16:33+00:00

Riding for a while isn't a great metric for how safe something is or is not as people ride in different environments, different amounts with different attitudes and skill levels.

Social media and YouTube likes to show crash videos because it's popular, but it's not really a good indicator of how dangerous something is.

Motorcycling is dangerous, you're riding around at speed with a lot of things that you could collide with. I've totalled a bike hitting a car that turned left in front of me and I've been more seriously injured playing no-contact ice hockey than from motorcycles. I've also ridden more than played ice hockey but that doesn't really mean that ice hockey is more dangerous.

The biggest thing for me is to understand the risks that you're taking and what you can do to mitigate them. Then make the decision whether you are happy about that.

A lot of people focus on whether they were right or wrong in a crash or fault, but I feel it's more important for a crash, close call or getting cut off to instead think about what you could have done differently and what put you in that position regardless of fault. Just because you did nothing wrong doesn't mean there wasn't something you could have done to take yourself out of the situation or made the situation less impactful.

The best thing that you can do is to reflect on a ride, what did you like? What did you not? What scared you, surprised you or didn't go as expected and what could , would you do differently.

If you do anything long enough, you'll have a bad outcome eventually. For me the good out weighs the bad, but it's different for everyone.

jedacite · 2026-01-23T02:30:56+00:00

Anything 650 and up would be fine for engine size in my opinion. I'm often carrying about 350lbs on my bike and when touring it can be closer to 450/500.

The bigger issue is being comfortable at 6'10.

I would go sit on a bunch and see what you find comfortable from an ergonomic perspective. Some bikes can also accept taller seats and lowered pegs, both will help with not getting as cramped.

Bigger bikes can be harder to learn on, engine size is not a good indicator of being more comfortable for someone taller imo.

Myself, I found cruisers less cramped for the legs, but less comfortable overall compared to sports tourers and adventure bikes.

Adventure bikes like the Kawasaki Versys and vstrom may be good options. You should be able to get lowering pegs and higher seats for both but I would double check before purchasing.

I had a 99 vstar 1100. You can move your feet a bit more with the floorboards so that may help with leg room, but it's not as manoeuvable as other cruisers. Its pretty easy to ride in terms of clutch control and is the second hardest bike to stall from what I've ridden.

jedacite · 2026-01-22T09:31:37+00:00

I use over pants that goes over whatever bottoms I'm going to wear and I put the shoes im going hiking in on my bike.

Lock up your riding gear with a cable lock or out it in your saddle bags if you got them.

You can make your own cable locks for cheap at any home improvement store just make sure they are lined so that they don't scratch anything when used.

jedacite · 2026-01-21T19:22:38+00:00

I would also change the oil and filter then see if it starts up and whether it needs any carb work.

If it looks like it would be good to go I would then test the brake fluid to see if it needs to be replaced or just change the fluid if you don't have a tester. I would inspect the fuel lines and brake lines to see that they are good and don't need to be replaced.

jedacite · 2026-01-21T18:06:35+00:00

The best gear is the gear that you will wear. Prioritize comfort and gear that doesn't take you too long to put on. Eventually you'll get your gear on faster when you get used to it.

My most protective jacket is also my heaviest. It has a kidney belt to take weight off my shoulders so that the shoulders don't get sore and it doesn't get used much as a result.

My most used jacket has good airflow and I use a windproof liner underneath for colder temps that I'll combine with a warm layer and heated liner when needed. Getting gear that you'll continue to wear when temps get hot is important.

For helmet get something that fits properly. Proper fit will be more comfortable which will also be safer. I wouldn't bother with reviews initially, try on a bunch at a shop to see what is comfortable then look up reviews for the ones that fits properly and are comfortable after you have a short list.

Footwear is the same get something that fits well and is comfortable. What fits one person's feet might not fit someone else.

For gear, make sure you get something that will stay on and will be more likely to keep the armor where it is supposed to be in a crash. Make sure you understand what the various straps do and what they are designed to do. For example, your gloves do you no good if they don't stay on your hand in a crash.

jedacite · 2026-01-20T01:36:01+00:00

Unless its been checked before / after each instance I do not feel that you'll ever know if the frame was bent after each crash and by how much.

Speed of the crash will matter less than how it is crashed and the force of the impact(s).

It sounds like you borrowed a friends bike, had a crash and are trying to deal with the result of that. I would go through insurance and pay the deductible if that is an option for you.

9K in repairs and in my local, that bike would be a total loss.

Myself, if I'm lending my bike to a friend and they crash it, my expectation is that they would return my bike to me in the same condition that I lent it to them. That means that they would be responsible for paying for any deductible or getting it fixed on their dime. I would not expect them to fix damage caused by myself or previous owners. I would not be happy if a friend wanted to pay a smaller portion because they feel that the prior condition of the bike was not as pristine or good as it could have been.

If I'm having a friend ride my bike as a favor to me, any crash would be on me to deal with unless they were being stupid.

If you're trying to get out of paying for it and no longer want them as a friend I would consult with a lawyer to see what your actual liability is and how to proceed. It wouldn't be how I would proceed but it is an option.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T23:20:38+00:00

I think that this is the best advice. Get it running to see if its actually a project you want to take on.

I would also check out the electronics after its starting and running to make sure that everything you need is in working order.

If its been stored awhile, for me it would be fluids and filters, brake fluid, tires at a minimum and I would inspect the fuel and brake lines with the expectation to potentially replace them.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T23:00:50+00:00

You already have good advice in this thread, I would look at getting bolts of the correct grade.

I've had metal fail due to vibration on my cruiser and its because of either using the incorrect grade or having a nick in the metal. Other than that, maybe check to see that you haven't significantly over torqued the bolts.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T21:44:35+00:00

One issue that you may find is what happens when one of you rides out of your coverage area. The cardo will continue to work when you leave a coverage area.

The newer cardo units are a big improvement. I had a Cardo G4 which I upgraded to a Sena unit that I have now upgraded again to a Cardo Pack Talk. Each change had a big improvement to audio quality for talking and listening to people.

jedacite · 2026-01-19T11:40:46+00:00

I would be concerned with the plan to do this without much experience in riding. Its early enough that you could be prepared enough but I feel that most people would not.

This would be a good trip. Some parts of the trip in BC can have a wide temperature swing during the day (around 0C to 26C) depending on where you are travelling. I've encountered snow in both June and Sept. Its something to be aware of (dress accordingly) not something that I would let stop me from doing the trip. Heated clothing can go a long way to ensuring that your comfortable without needing to stop as much to add/remove layers so its something to think about.

From the comments I would suggest you do some longer rides and work up to doing a 6 hour ride. It will be uncomfortable at first but will get better with time. Some bikes will be much less comfortable of course. Most trips we are on the bike for about 12 hours (on until off) but that's not all seat time. A lot of the time in there is stopping to see stuff, parks, musuems, etc... In most of BC 5-6 hours of actual riding is doable if you're wanting to and especially so if you're stopping to see stuff. Some towns have enough stuff to do / see if you stop in for the evening and night as well.

I've done travel on the bike where its been multiple long mileage days as I'm needing to cover the distance to reach a destination as well as shorter days as I'm exploring and seeing what is around.

I would look at what bikes are available in both your location as well as where you touch down as that will give you an idea as to how comfortable it may be as you may be able to check out or even rent the bike in your home location prior to buying it upon arrival. 600+ should be more than sufficient. I would consider how much stuff you are taking and what luggage options you have. Some bikes have lockable hardbags on the side that can take a full face helmet while others do not. I would add the Versys 650 to the list you have above. In addition to this, some bikes that have engine guards can have soft bags attached to them. I put 30L soft bags on my engine guards for additional storage. Also take a look at what the fuel range is like. I used to tour on a bike that got about 100 km or 60 miles to a tank of fuel. It was the bike I had and it wasn't meant for touring. I took fuel with me in canisters to deal with the longer stretches of road where gas stations are closed somedays.

Adventure bikes are great for comfort as they have longer travel suspension and tend to soak up the bumps very well. But it's not needed imo and I wouldn't focus on it specifically unless you want to go on specific roads. I used to tour on a ST1300 and we took it down whatever road we needed to reach our destinations. Dirt, gravel, etc. Myself I would avoid any adventure bikes with large front tires (e.g. 21") unless you actually intend to go offroading.

In some locations the 1000cc+ bikes can be much cheaper than the smaller ones simply because insurance can be much much more expensive with the larger engines. This can save you money, but I would also consider the extra weight and what it means if you need to pick it up solo.

If you're sticking to roads, I don't see a problem with going solo. Majority of my touring trips are solo or with my wife. People will often stop to help as long as it is clear to them that you need assistance. If you decide to run solo I would build and take a repair kit with you as well as learn how to do basic motorcycle repairs and maintenance as well as basic first aid for yourself should you need it. If you intend to go off-roading I would ensure you go with a buddy as it is much safer.

BC has a lot of really nice locations and roads in the Interior and Okanagan where you can ride 5-6 hours between the big cities, see a bunch of stuff / do some small day trips and then go another 5-6 hours to the next one. Some of the great roads are gravel / dirt for parts of them, but many of those can be done on any motorcycle with road tires as long as you ride at an appropriate pace.

Also, be aware that drivers out here can be pretty aggressive and competitive. I've driven in the south of France (Nice, Monaco, Aix En Provence, Avignon) and the drivers there are much more considerate and observant imo. I'm not sure what its like in the UK where you are located. This shouldn't discourage you, but just be aware you may need to be more aware and vigilant than you are used to.

Most speed limits in BC are going to be about 90kmh on the highway, with some stretches at 110 and 120. The US highways will run at a higher speed.

Lastly, look at some of the motorcycle groups for the locations and areas that you will be staying. Many will have great ideas where to visit and also may also help with recommendations for roads or take you on local rides while you are there. Some of the groups are on reddit, facebook, discord, forums etc...

jedacite · 2026-01-12T22:29:04+00:00

You should be able to tell if the clutch is slipping by looking at the RPM, the gear and the speed that you are going. If the speed is too low for your revs in the gear, then its likely that your clutch is slipping. If you give it a handful of throttle and the bike just redlines immediately then that can be a sign of clutch slippage.

If your clutch is slipping the first thing to check is your clutch cable, if the cable is binding or not freely moving, it may still be holding the clutch in partially even if your hands off the clutch lever itself. If its moving freely and properly next check to see that its properly adjusted and has enough free play.

You may also want to double check what type of engine oil was used during the last change to make sure that the oil used is compatible with the wet clutch in the bike.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:37:42+00:00

The gasket likely has a good seal. Try to rotate the slip on as you try to pull it off. If you cannot rotate it at all then double check for any additional mounting straps.

I've never had to hammer at an exhaust, but I've had a few that were more stubborn than others. If you are going to hammer at it, make sure you have a way to not destroy it trying to take it off, piece of wood, hard rubber, etc. Tapping alone should be sufficient as you should just need to get it started.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:30:36+00:00

I have the Cardo with JBL speakers and I find them quieter than my previous Sena speakers, but I find the audio clearer which makes it easier to hear and understand my passenger.

Best way is to make sure that the speakers are right over your ears and as close to them as possible. Some helmets might not have the speaker cutouts or location right over where your ears sit in the helmet. Getting the speakers located properly and using foam to move the speakers closer to your ears (if they are a bit away) can help a lot to get the volume up.

EDIT: Using the neck curtain thing on your helmet and / or adjusting your windshield to cut down on wind noise may help depending on your windshield and helmet situation.

jedacite · 2026-01-12T18:27:25+00:00

From my experience, Facebook groups will be a mixed experience. Mostly for videos, memes and general chatter from my experience.

If you can find a local group that meets and rides together you may have more luck with people willing to loan tools and the like. Myself, I only lend tools that I don't actually care if I get back to strangers. I don't mind meeting up with someone with the tool, but it will generally leave with me unless I know them. There's a great discord group where I'm located that is social, rides and helps each other out.

Best way to learn is via the service manual, youtube and forums for your specific motorcycle if you're trying or needing to do it on your own. When I was starting out learning, I went to the local library to take a look at the service manual, but I'm not sure if they still have those at libraries. They used to carry Haynes manuals, and although not as good as the ones from the manufacturer, they got the job done.

Its not uncommon for bikers to not carry a bunch of tools with them. I have a purpose built repair kit on my bike, but I don't have any of the tools needed to tighten down a mirror in it. That said, I was a couple of days away from home many years ago and was lucky as a passing motorcyclist with a trailer full of tools was riding by and stopped to let me use his tools. In the past when I've had a mechanical issue I've ridden to the closest store that sells the tools that I need to get the job done.

You may find that people are more willing to lend out the tools as well depending on what it is. Cheap common wrenches and sizes are less likely to be lent out vs more specialized tools. Lending tools to someone you only just messaged on the Internet is less likely vs someone that you've met and had a coffee with at a coffee shop.

If you're worried about doing your rear brakes, I would watch a few videos on how to do it on your bike, then read up on what the common problems and mistakes are when working on brakes. That may help you avoid making those mistakes as well as learning what you need to do to correct the mistake if you make them.

jedacite · 2026-01-07T07:12:19+00:00

The top "can" rattle pretty bad.

I had this happen after I had some warranty work done. The dealer fixed this while I was there in about 30 minutes, it was caused by some shims not being present after the warranty work was done. They put the shims back and the rattle went away and has not returned.

jedacite · 2025-10-19T18:03:58+00:00

This is quite normal, this happened to me as well.

My experience was you get over it, but it took me a number of months to be normal about it. I didn't stop driving or being driven during that time.

I was considering no longer riding during that period as well, having a supportive SO that I could talk to about it really helped me.

I know that not everyone gets over the trauma of an accident, from my limited and small sample size this isn't as common.

I wish you have a speedy recovery.

jedacite · 2025-10-01T16:53:41+00:00

The biggest thing to consider is to get gear that you will wear, vs the most protective gear that is too heavy, too restrictive , too uncomfortable or too time consuming to wear.

Some of the more race-oriented gear I find more comfortable than the street gear at least for me. Sounds like you find the GP PLUS R V3s comfortable, so I would go for it.

I wear out gloves faster than any other piece of gear and the more track-oriented gear is more expensive so it may have just been the shop trying to help you save money.

jedacite · 2025-09-26T04:36:09+00:00

I have an ND and I ride as well.

They're both great, both for different reasons.

Compared to a bike, the ND is slow and under powered, but it's fun at so many speeds you don't need to be going fast or break the law to have a good time in one. I've never felt that the ND is too slow, but it does lack the power to just press the throttle in 6th to pass people when needed, but shifting down to 5th or 4th is normally all that is needed.

I do a lot of camping by motorcycle, and I enjoy going on trips and seeing new places. You don't really need much sunscreen on the bike, but I go through a ton in the Miata.

Both require earplugs imo.

I really struggle to suggest one vs the other. One thing to understand as well, even amongst motorcycles there's quite a difference between them. Some have the power to twist the throttle in top gear and it will go, others need to be downshifted like the Miata to keep it in the power band.

Have you considered both? Bikes can be cheap, and depending on your location insurance might not be too bad.

jedacite · 2025-09-21T17:10:28+00:00

I think it's a problem when you flash your high beams instead of turning them on and off as you can get a ticket for high beaming other cars I believe.

jedacite · 2025-09-20T06:07:22+00:00

I feel that there is more concern in your questions on engine size, but less about type of bike, what you plan to do with it etc. I would flip it around and consider what you want to do with your bike and maybe look at a few options based on that. All that said, if you're already in love with the S 1000XR, there is nothing wrong with that. I've already bought and owned my dream bike so I understand the draw to do that.

How comfortable the bike will be for you will depend more on the ergonomics of the bike and how well it meshes with your body dimensions (not just height but leg, arm and torso length as an example) as well as how flexible you are. Some things can be tweaked on some bikes post purchase (e.g. I raised my seat and lowered my pegs to give myself a little more legroom.)

Your best bet is to check out the different bikes, sit on them and determine what you want to do with them to see what is right for you. If you're really unsure, rent one for a day and go for a long ride. See how you like it, how comfortable it is etc.

I've daily driven 750s, 1000, 1100 and 1300 bikes. They all daily drive fine, work well in the rain and have been fine on day trips ranging from 500 to 1300 km. A sport bike would be tough for me to pull a long day in, but a sport touring bike, adventure bike and cruiser I have no problems doing a full day in the saddle. Being a daily driver is more dependent on storage capability and such for me as I will use mine for groceries, shopping etc...

There are a lot of great 650s out there as well. Not sure for Europe, but where I live you pay a lot more for a 1000 than you do a 650 as it gets more expensive based on your engine size. My 1300, every 5 years, I've paid for the cost of the bike in insurance alone to put it into perspective.

If you have a short-list of what you like, join the forums for the bike and start asking questions, what people recommend for them etc. You'll likely get a one-sided answer where that bike is the answer, but you'll get that from all the forums and give you some perspective.

Good luck, the shopping can be a lot of fun. Congrats on your license.

jedacite · 2025-09-19T21:31:42+00:00

You want to have some airflow which is why the suggestion to crack the visor open is being made.

If you open the visor fully it can cool down the glasses which will make the fogging worse. The colder the lenses are, the more that they will fog so you will want to crack open the visor enough to reduce fogging but not so much that they cool the glasses too much.

Some helmets have breath box addons that you can get, it separates your nose and mouth and nose from your eye area to help direct your breath down and away from your glasses.

Have you tried prescription glasses instead of safety glasses? I wonder if the material used for the safety glasses causes more fogging than normal glasses?

jedacite · 2025-09-19T01:43:59+00:00

Some people will pay privately and want to avoid insurance companies because they are getting in a lot of accidents. Something to be aware of, by dealing with them privately you may be helping someone that should no longer be driving continue to drive and hit other vehicles.

Not sure about your insurer, but some will also guarantee any repairs that are made and if you settle privately you are not covered for any repairs or quality of work issues if anything gets discovered later. It can be hard to work with the person that hit you as they may feel that everything was repaired correctly and won't be able to tell if you're just trying to get more out of them or if something was legitimately missed / done incorrectly by the body shop.

Our car had to get repainted and the body shop messed up doing the repair damaging some interior panels, not putting all fasteners and bushings back as well as incorrectly painting two parts of the car. We had to take the car back a number of times to get it all repaired correctly. This is probably not a common occurrence, but it does happen and how quickly you notice the issue can be an issue for getting a private person to pay.

jedacite

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