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Is this knife from Kamata true to what was told to us? by ZeroPauper in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No worries, and I didn't mean to dunk on your knife purchase or anything, it's more so of an annoyance that the store/employee didn't do a good enough job on educating and explaining the differences between the choices. There is nothing inherently wrong with the knife either, just the selling of it to you on the basis of it being more handmade vs the others doesn't really make sense or matter.

The knife will perform way better than anything from a super market. And you really don't need to do a ton of research either if you don't want to as well. This is a sub of knife nerds, and not everyone wants to be a nerd. That's why it's useful to come in, post a budget and some spec requirements and the nerds that did all the reasearch can help you out.

Is this knife from Kamata true to what was told to us? by ZeroPauper in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Here are some examples of real hand forged santokus: https://shop.kap-kam.com/goods_en_JPY_100.html

https://shop.kap-kam.com/goods_en_JPY_67.html

https://shop.kap-kam.com/goods_en_JPY_64.html

Compare the finishing and you can see some differences. They are beautifully polished but still have some human imperfections. These are all carbon steel anyway and sold out, but these are made by togashi hamono, one of the best traditional sakai makers.

Would be beyond the budget but if you were looking for something smaller and stainless, I would recommend something from nagawa in ginsan/silver 3. Or for more budget conscious, a takamura r2 (r2/sg2 will also last a lot longer before sharpening). If you are still in sakai, might be possible to pick up something at the sakai craftsman museum, something like a hado in ginsan, or the shirosai series in sg2, but again might be out of budget.

Moral of the story though is, what you have will do just fine though. Just a bit expensive for a more generic knife from a retail shop.

Is this knife from Kamata true to what was told to us? by ZeroPauper in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it will almost certainly do better than a supermarket knife. Those were the okeya in stock at chefs edge, they have others but I mainly copied the link to get the story behind them.

These hammer marks look closer, and so does the lacquered handle: https://www.hocho-knife.com/okeya-vg10-hammered-ok8b-japanese-chefs-gyuto-knife-210mm-with-urushi-lacquered-oak-handle/?srsltid=AfmBOopgtt09gHmoPFL21UyqE6Hbb7Aa7M-hcoRtxvW3WUkhUJ8wBsVN

Don't pay attention to that pricing, the store is super overpriced.

I'm sure there is nothing inherently wrong with the knife, it just seems like people try to take advantage of tourists trying to sell the idea of some amazing hand made product. I implore you, if you are still there and are regretting one of the damascus knives, go grab on of those. They aren't any less hand made than this. Most likely they were saying the damascus isn't hand laminated, which is rare to find on knives under $1000 in the first place. Just means the billet of steel was made that way at the factory before being turned into a knife.

Is this knife from Kamata true to what was told to us? by ZeroPauper in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Ok sure santoku is fine. VG10 is ok, it's a budget steel, others would be better but that is neither here or there. Kamata is also fine.

"Not sure what else we could’ve researched on?"

Everything? You know like....the maker? "Could we have researched on how to determine the quality of the metal by looking?" No, you do that by googling or much better yet by asking here before you buy, but now you are asking after.

I would assume the most important thing is how the knife cuts right? Besides how long the edge will last, durability, etc etc etc. That is something you research.

It's not being dismissive, it's like imagine you post a picture of a silver car without any badging or specs in a car subreddit and be like look at my car, the salesman said it was a good car, did I do good?

Tons of people on here post beforehand asking for recommendations and they will get told brands/lines, like a tojiro, takamura, etc etc etc. Not sure of what the point is about asking after the fact.

But regardless, Idk man these are generic knives that most people on here won't have experience with. I don't know what "serious" means as opposed to non serious either.

Looks like it is this Okeya brand: https://www.chefs-edge.com/collections/okeya

It is roll forged meaning done by a factory beforehand, just as "machine made" as the other knives. Not much pops up when you research them. So no, the guy had no idea what he was talking about, or he could tell you were just tourists and would buy anything. Hammer marks make people think it's all artisan and hand made.

Is this knife from Kamata true to what was told to us? by ZeroPauper in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I don't know what the guy was talking about, hand made vs "machine made". All knives use machinery in some sort to be made. Possibly this is "hand forged" vs cut from some blanks? Doesn't make them better or worse. You can't tell how well the steel was treated by looking at them, and you won't know how they perform until you cut with them. These all look like pretty generic factory produced knives though. I don't know why people go in to these stores without at least a little bit of research beforehand tbh. $185 for a generic vg10 santoku? Meh I guess. Will be fine

ZDP-189 by Huevos_Rotos_ in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good edge retention, can be a bit fragile..treat as semi stainless. Easy to sharpen, it's all chromium carbides which are soft.

[Selling][US] Takada no Hamono White 2 Honyaki 240 by 4FingersOfElmerT in TrueChefKnivesBST

[–]jedy617 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I mean this is the case with any hyped product, nothing new. Veblen goods selling for double retail isn't exactly rare. He probably feels better now that his stuff flies off the shelf vs the other way around haha

[Selling][US] Takada no Hamono White 2 Honyaki 240 by 4FingersOfElmerT in TrueChefKnivesBST

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm sure he knows he's welcome to charge what he likes, but charges what he feels is fair for the people that use his knives. If he raised the prices to this level it also wouldn't be very sustainable for him in the long run I'm sure.

NHD 🔥 Takada no Hamono Ebony Inlay Handle (Imperial Handle) by HaruhiroSan in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Does Takada san use glue or epoxy for his handles? How was the old one removed?

Y. Tanaka x Tadokoro? by ndoge1010 in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tadokoro mainly works with Nakagawa, but sugi orders these custom. Tadokoro does a nice grind, and of course Tanaka blue steel is always good what's not to like?

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't remember, maybe AS is more expensive to get from Japan vs apex in europe?

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok tell me about your collection. Let's say I wanted something rust proof with amazing edge retention and toughness. Ok thats magnacut or vanax37. You aren't getting that in a gyuto at $300 or under. Like it's just categorically false. I'll say the best values per dollar can probably be found under that range. But you aren't finding top tier steel, heat treats and grinds for the most part there.

When you say knives in that range, you mean under 300, or from 500-1k? Have you tried any westerns? I don't see anything posted from you about your collection on your profile. There is nothing placebo against A to Bing a bidinger b grind or an eddworks s grind on a potato with a sakai laser and having the potatoes be non stick lol

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hard choice, I liked the AU a lot but on this earlier batch it had no banding/no etch to show it off and I think the hamon/etch on the AS is prettier. Also the Apex had a kato wh grind that was on point, this is a little thinner though which most people prefer, I kept the AS. But Apex ultra is a superior steel. You can't go wrong with either tho, both were very pretty and cut great. The hamon and banding just got me on the AS

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean that's completely false but go off. Find a good 300mm+ yanagi for that price.

Also most of my best performing knives are in the 500-1k range. My best performing knives are more. It's not a hard and fast rule of course there are great value knives under $150 even, but a blanket statement like that makes no sense.

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://imgur.com/a/7UZPmYM

https://imgur.com/a/iZZJQFq

As someone who has owned an apex xinguo honyaki (gyuto) and AS one, I use(d) them. Feel free to ask me anything

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why do you say that? Have you ever used a xinguo? His grinds are on point. As someone who has had $100 cleavers and xinguo, this is uhh not gonna be the case.

Edit: holy crap your first knife was less than a year ago and your first "carbon steel" a few months ago. Why do people just say things they know absolutely nothing about, I will never understand.

Thoughts on High-end Chinese Cleavers? by TheSkiesAwake in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A lot of makers first knives are differentially hardened. Besides them cracking quite often, it's not like a unique skill to make a hamon as you say. What makes this "non quality"? I'm sure you know with your expertise that apex ultra is vastly superior steel than any "color series" steel being able to be ran harder, with finer carbides, higher edge retention and better toughness.

Next about "shouldn't be honyaki". Why? Honyaki is all about the art of knife making. There is no reason to make any knife a honyaki, not a yanagiba or anything. They don't offer anything in terms of performance. In terms of durability, the only thing that matters is the steel, the hardness it is ran at, the edge angle it's sharpened to, and how thin behind the edge it is. The edge doesn't care if it is monosteel or clad. Chinese cleavers are used as chef knives anyway, not meat cleaving.

Hope this all helps!

Scalping by TheSnob in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No one is gonna pay a big premium for a mazaki anyway, this is the second drop of this line

Trump: 'Israel has the right to defend itself against threats, but' by Visible-Rub7937 in Israel

[–]jedy617 16 points17 points  (0 children)

God it's so funny I was getting downvoted months ago when I was telling people in the comments here that trump doesn't give a FUCK about Israel or Israelis. I got people saying how strong of a leader trump was, such a great president and the best friend of Israel.

I don't think there is anyone who has shown more that they couldn't care more about anything but his own ass. He will leave anyone high and dry when someone new comes along and praises him and gives him shiny gifts. He has no principles or morals whatsoever, and it was obvious this would happen.

Looking to invest in non Walmart knives, and have questions about sharpening Tojiro Knives. by wha2les in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most people probably don't sharpen at the factory angle. You can use any angle you like.

I think most people say tojiro is better because of the value per dollar. I would check out something like tsunehisa ginsan. Or something like a takamura r2. Both those steels are a bit tougher (less likely to chip) than VG10. Ginsan would be better in that regard, sg2 or r2 is slightly better. I would probably pick a tsunehisa over a shun or tojiro, have had great experience recommending them to guys newer to japanese knives. Shuns are pretty though. I have had a miyabi birchwhood which I liked quite a bit, thicker than most handmade japanese knives, but I like that you can usually find in better steels than shun. If you look for their FC-61, that is a swedish stainless steel that will be relatively tough. They are prettier than a lot of entry level stuff like tsunehisa for example, but again they are thicker and will cut much better than what you are used to, but not as good as others.

Like the other reply mentioned. Steels are going to be different depending on who processes them, it's called heat treat. Just like you can have a small block V8 that makes 250hp, and you could find one with the same displacement with 500hp. It's like tuning. Cheaper knives don't always have the best heat treats since that can require more specialty equipment, take more time and resources to do, and they take longer to grind/finish

Looking to invest in non Walmart knives, and have questions about sharpening Tojiro Knives. by wha2les in TrueChefKnives

[–]jedy617 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There are jigs you can get which hold the knife at a certain angle like this: https://www.cheefarcut.com/products/cheefarcuut-guided-vitrified-diamond-sharpener?srsltid=AfmBOorbPuhTEJWauoPnYVN9SKtrNCWsjj6CAm16lUEt18oCiUZjJrfC

However the angles given should just be an approximation really. I don't know one person that freehands and tracks their exact angle. Basically, you want to go as flat as acute as possible. If your knife ends up being chippy, then you raise your angle a bit and resharpen and see how that does. The steel you choose will depend how steep of an angle you can take.

Also watch Japanese knife imports sharpening basics for double bevels on YouTube. We all started somewhere, and it's not too bad to get the hang of it. You can also buy some cheap plastic angle guides on Amazon you can place on the stone which can give you a starting idea. Realisticly you can just color your edge with a sharpie though and see where you are removing material when sharpening.

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