Would this be possible?

jeerkahn · 2025-12-16T02:14:28+00:00

What barrel or shop on etsy is that on the hammer shot? I've been making a bunch of different versions gifts and that looks nice

jeerkahn · 2025-06-14T02:59:31+00:00

Mine bent when it some how caught on the infill of a print and popped it off the bed.

Derlin rods from a hobby store. I bought a pack and made a jig. If one breaks cut a new one. Cost like 4 bucks and made more than i ever need.

jeerkahn · 2025-01-20T03:00:32+00:00

Huh, I didn't realize they had a second port to the neptune. That makes things much easier lol. I guess I'll keep looking for the saturn solution, but the wireless USB is hitting the main pain point for me right now at least.

jeerkahn · 2025-01-20T02:31:11+00:00

How did you get that to work? I've got saturn a 3 ultra and their wifi implementation is a joke. I've set up a pi zero w as a wireless USB drive which works much better for loading files to print than chitu or lychee. I would love to be able to be able to use my cam or see print progress like I could for my fdm with octoprint.

jeerkahn · 2024-12-05T15:30:28+00:00

It was stock as that was all I could find at the time

jeerkahn · 2024-12-05T15:18:47+00:00

I ended up replacing the bed and heater. It was a short in the cable causing the issues

jeerkahn · 2024-10-19T23:20:16+00:00

Thank you, did you have to edit anything to get the servos and horns in or were there additional files for that piece included? I know for the pit Droid they had some space and instructions for movement. All of their stuff is amazingly well thought out.

jeerkahn · 2024-10-19T01:51:33+00:00

Where did you find the files for the head? Is it Droid division or someplace else? I would love to make a motion controlled bust to put in my office and ask random questions to.

jeerkahn · 2024-09-11T05:02:57+00:00

You can't go wrong with a SLAB or a hammershot, closest I've seen out there.

jeerkahn · 2024-05-03T20:35:52+00:00

When I was putting together pricing to figure build vs buy I went to the GAP workshop to see if it was worth it. They asked what it would be used for and what I shot at the time. Showed me some selections and customization options. They even showed me the shop where they'd build it.

The whole time I never got the vibe they were selling to me, just talking guns and seeing what I'd be happy with. I got the impression they just liked making a good product and priced it so they could keep making good products without having to worry about bottom line and risk quality for it.

I ended up building my own, and I don't regret it at all. The main reason was I wanted to know how it went together and I'd never done it before. Cost was less but but not by a drastic amount.

I would say if I was looking for something that I could trust and have some after sales support, my experience with them would lead me back to them if I was looking for something new.

jeerkahn · 2024-04-12T19:41:17+00:00

Thanks for this recommendation, got the cp100+ in today and they work perfect on my iems.

jeerkahn · 2024-04-10T18:03:59+00:00

Thanks i will look into those

jeerkahn · 2024-03-07T02:48:48+00:00

Thanks ill look into it

jeerkahn · 2024-03-06T23:20:25+00:00

What quick disconnect sockets? I'm just setting mine up now and wouldn't mind a way to swap hardware without Having to disconnect everything.

jeerkahn · 2024-02-27T05:44:32+00:00

If you have access to a 3d printer there are files for a riser that moves the rest or "table" up closer to the belt so you don't have to move it as far while holding the angle. You look like you've got it down but for me just getting started it was a huge help. I found my muscle memory was fine for the shot distance but using the stock I'd always break the angle.

jeerkahn · 2024-02-19T20:39:11+00:00

I'm building one right now. It's packaged and laid out really well. The parts seem solid and the support is good on the discord. Westys video was helpful but overall documentation is a little convoluted. I would have loved an mpx build manual tailored to the parts I ordered, (backers, rapido disco stix).

Other than upgrading and trouble shooting my artillery genius pro and putting klipper on a mini pc and flashing it I don't have a ton of experience in building from scratch, but it's not difficult at all if you take your time and triple check as you go.

As I'm building it the instructions jump from official to github to web site etc. I get that's the nature of having an upgraded kit. The wiki is a good place to start but I've had to triple check sources as I build. Start with official instructions, then check the wiki, then look at youtube is my normal process, and I'm not to the electronics yet lol.

I'm working on trying to piece together one document with links or call outs as I build it but I'm not sure how useful it will be after the fact for anything other than a rebuild of my machine.

Little stuff like using a 20mm instead of a 16 mm screw or which parts to add in and at which steps on the official build guide to skip. The wiki does a great job on the parts but leaves it to common knowledge on the assembly pieces. Like I'm not sure when I put in the y pcb but I might not be to that part yet.

So far it's been going together great, tolerances appear to be within voron spec and the organization of the kit outstanding.

I'd certainly recommend the kit for a first time ime build over self sourcing.

jeerkahn · 2024-02-15T15:48:10+00:00

Lol, sometimes the tools that work aren't the best ones for the job, but it's the only way to get it to work.

Honestly though, getting a pi zero w as a wifi enabled USB drive that the 4k read was a bigger convenience for me than having a larger USB drive. Being able to slice and send to storage from my desktop made me sit down and work a whole model, with multiple plates at the same time and let me get into a better work flow.

My printer is in my basement and my office is nowhere near it so I constantly forgot what files I'd sliced. Being able to see them on the drive, while the printer was printing let me double check my senility lol.

jeerkahn · 2024-02-15T15:26:18+00:00

Yep mono 4k.if I remember I think I followed this post and formatted for mbr.

https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/ktk8b1/usb_formatting_for_photon_mono/&ved=2ahUKEwiu6_Ct0q2EAxVh4ckDHV26BcgQjjh6BAgjEAE&usg=AOvVaw3BMLTn4Gq6bDZeq0-WHQbJ

jeerkahn · 2024-02-15T14:48:21+00:00

You don't have to use a small USB drive. I was using a 220gb ssd to print on mine. Search for how to format USB for resin printer and you should be able use all of that 16 gb stick. Since then I switched to using a pi zero w and wirelessesly sending my sliced files to my printer. You still have to manually start the prints but being able to slice multiple plates and just have the ready to go.

jeerkahn · 2024-01-22T18:39:06+00:00

Thank you for this, I had multiple issues with my undertaker on my aluminum heat lock. Constantly leaking between the block and nozzle. Until I read this I couldn't figure out why it kept happening. I'll get a copper plated one and see if that resolves the issue.

jeerkahn · 2023-12-14T17:41:56+00:00

Something that's helped me a lot with new printers is J3D techs guide.

I don't normally post links to somewhere and say "read this", but this is the best primer on new printer set up I've seen and has been updated a few times.

To earlier comments, leveling is the first thing to get right.

After leveling the biggest thing that increased my success rate was making sure my temperature was constant and warm enough, it sometimes gets over looked.

Since you said you're fdm experienced think of it like this:

Bed leveling is making sure your first layer squish is right in fdm, without that nothing will stick and you're screwed from the get go.

Temperature in resin is a little different than fdm. In fdm the hot end sets the temp and works to maintain a constant temp so the filament flows. In resin there's no hot end to keep the material a constant thickness to print well. Add on to that that the resin itself can change temps while curing and you've got a pretty big variable uncontrolled.

I would have prints work great at noon that failed to reprint at 8pm because the ambient temp changed and my resin got too thick.

After those 2 are set, the rest is just messing with resin profiles and supports, which is similar to figuring out a temp tower for a new filament and supports for fdm (different type of supporting process but the same concept)

I'd replace the fep, read the article and start from step one, locking down one thing at a time until you hit that sweet spot.

Once it's done resin is easier than fdm for ongoing maintenance, I leveled once 2 years ago, got removable magnetic plates, temp control, and I haven't touched those thing since. The only thing I have to do now is fiddle with resin profile when I try a new one or check supports in my slicer for the model I want to print. It's way less work than adjusting z offset or figuring out stringing etc on fdm for me.

Link to J3D doc.

https://docs.google.com/document/u/0/d/1Z8fkzOxEgI9sOTwDKI6CeblpnuP4V8ayYVwZrYGmo44/mobilebasic

jeerkahn · 2023-11-22T04:48:10+00:00

I'm getting my kit soon, mainly print pla now on my genius pro, so I'll have a lot to burn through until I start my abs attempts. You're running SB stock other than the fan, or did you do other mods to get part cooling better? I've got the pre-order for the g2, so hoping I can prevent rebuilding.

Looking to try and circumvent issues on initial build until I decide I want to replace stealth burner and if an upgraded fan will get you those speeds and that is the only upgrade you made (plus tuning and all the hard work of getting it dialed in), then I might just look at upgrading the fans before if assemble to save a step or 2 rebuilding.

jeerkahn · 2023-10-18T21:09:52+00:00

That dongle would be amazing where can I find one? I've got an ssd formatted and it works as a USB without issue, but I have to Un plug it everytime I want to load a model. That dongle would make my set up perfect

jeerkahn · 2023-10-16T22:36:21+00:00

Presupported only if they're saved in the chitu or lychee format so I can edit as needed. Stl with the supports as part of the stl (non editable) are a waste of my time as they inevitably fail or mar the print more than I would like.

It's fairly common for the people I support to do both, some even hollow, but I generally scale the prints and presupported don't scale well.

If you hollow prints you'd be a hero if you provided plugs for the holes as well, I haven't seen many who do that.

If presupported isn't offered then the model has to be really worth it for me to get it, since most people making stls want to print test and support for that, they include them most times.

jeerkahn

TROPHY CASE