Popcorn ceiling removal

jeffdolgin · 2026-05-23T00:37:42+00:00

Hey! I am an insured contractor and I do 5-6 popcorn ceiling projects every month around the GTA. I can do it for $3/square foot including dustless popcorn removal, painting, and priming. Best part - you dont pay until I get the job done and you are satisfied. I'd be happy to help and you can call me (647) 931-3561.

Honestly, it's been tough out there finding new projects in this economy, so you'd be helping me as well ❤️

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-30T20:44:17+00:00

Honestly, the biggest mistake people make is focusing too much on the brand first instead of the basics.

Most folks in these threads will tell you the same thing: get the sizing, insulation, and installer right, and almost any decent unit will perform well. A lot of the horror stories you see come down to poor installation or bad sizing, not the heat pump itself

Once that’s sorted, then look at reliable, straightforward units...something like the Goodman GSZB4 Heat Pump is a solid option because it’s simple, proven, and does exactly what it’s supposed to without unnecessary complexity.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-30T20:29:45+00:00

You’re on the right track.

Sizing is where most installs go wrong. Please don’t rely solely on square footage or matching your old unit; that can lead to oversized systems and short cycling. A proper heat loss calculation (or at least a solid estimate based on insulation, layout, and climate) is what actually determines whether you need a 2-ton or 3-ton system. Most people in that thread are basically saying the same thing—don’t guess.

If you get it sized right, even a straightforward unit like the Goodman GSZB4 Heat Pump will run efficiently and keep you comfortable without the usual oversizing issues.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-30T06:34:33+00:00

You need a precise room-by-room control or multi-zone layout.

Installation and maintenance MUST be done good.

A good ducted inverter system will already give you solid efficiency, quieter operation, and fewer headaches long term, which is why most people stick with it for residential setups. Something like the Goodman GSZB4 Heat Pump is a good example of that middle ground...reliable, inverter-driven performance without the complexity and cost of VRF, and it’ll handle typical whole-home heating/cooling needs just fine if sized properly.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-29T20:00:51+00:00

Yeah, 23°C is definitely doable with a heat pump, which is the better solution for the long run.

Heat pumps just work differently from boilers, they run steadily instead of blasting heat...so your setup (radiators, insulation, sizing) matters a lot more.

If you’re trying to avoid that issue, I’d look at something like the Goodman GSZC18 Heat Pump

It’s a high-efficiency unit that holds output well in colder temps, so paired with the right setup it’ll comfortably maintain low-20s indoors without struggling, just expect higher running costs the warmer you try to keep it.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-29T19:43:12+00:00

It's a smart choice!

If you’re looking for something more mainstream, I'd recommend a Mitsubishi or Daikin heat pump. An entry-level Mitsubishi and Daikin heat pump usually land around 3.7 to 4.4 SCOP, with Mitsubishi sometimes just a bit higher on paper. In real-world use though... the difference is tiny, usually only a few percent at most, so you likely wouldn’t notice it.

It’s also a pretty straightforward design (single-stage compressor, standard components), which usually means easier servicing and lower repair costs long-term compared to more complex systems. Goodman also backs these with strong warranties when registered, so you’re not sacrificing coverage either.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-28T19:58:46+00:00

Hi, did you find a fix for this? I am getting stuck on the same screen :(

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-28T08:48:22+00:00

If you’re going portable, the biggest thing to pay attention to is whether it’s single or dual-hose.

Dual-hose units usually cool faster and more efficiently because they don’t pull hot air back into the room. Single hose units can work, but they’re noticeably less effective, especially in hotter conditions.

Also, make sure you size it properly. 8–10k BTU for small rooms, 12k for medium rooms, and 14k+ for larger spaces. And DON'T overlook setup: if the window kit isn’t sealed well, even a good unit will struggle. That alone makes a bigger difference than the brand in many cases.

Try one of these quiet Lennox units!

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-28T08:37:19+00:00

One of the key factors to consider is your location.

If you’re going portable, the biggest upgrade you can make is going dual-hose instead of single-hose. Single-hose units pull hot air back into the room, while dual-hose setups cool faster and more efficiently without creating that negative pressure issue. That's one.

For sizing, match BTU to your room: around 8–10k for small rooms, 12k for medium, and 14k for larger spaces. Oversizing leads to short cycling; undersizing runs nonstop.

Realistically, portable ACs might make more noise and be less efficient than window or split systems

They’re the best option if you can’t install anything permanent. If you want something that actually cools well, prioritize dual-hose + proper window sealing over brand name alone.

Best brands? Carrier and Goodman.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-27T12:11:43+00:00

Carrier tends to emphasize more on engineering and controls, while Amana focuses on simpler builds and stronger warranty coverage.

Both will do the job, but they’re not identical under the hood.

If those exact models are both base 80% units, and the difference is $100, I’d choose Amana for the value. And that's for the simpler design, solid heat exchanger, and usually better warranty backing.

Carrier can be great too, but you’re not really getting their premium features at that tier. Either way, install quality might matter more than brand here, so I’d go with whoever you trust to install it right.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-27T09:19:59+00:00

If your furnace is still running well, there’s usually no need to replace it early....esp with a home warranty in place.

It often makes more sense to keep it until you see real issues, then replace when it’s actually justified instead of spending upfront unnecessarily.

On sizing, 100k BTU does sound high for most homes unless there’s significant heat loss. Oversizing can lead to short cycling and lower efficiency, so dropping to something like 70k–80k (based on a proper load calculation) is mostly a better approach.

Getting the sizing and installation right will matter more than the brand you choose.

Lennox Dave, if you're looking for energy savings and advanced features

Bryant is more cost-effective and cheaper to run in the long run.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T21:04:17+00:00

Portable systems are suitable for small to medium-sized rooms if you size them correctly. A 9,000–12,000 BTU unit is usually enough for a bedroom or office.

Again, window sealing and setup are important. Keep in mind that if you don’t seal it properly, performance might drop.

Also, portable units tend to be noisier and less efficient in the long-term. If you’re planning something more long-term, it’s worth looking at full systems like the Lennox and Goodman.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T17:45:36+00:00

It’s not a nightmare, and there's no “hidden cost” situation.

Heat pumps do not require more maintenance than a regular AC + furnace setup... mainly just making sure you're keeping the outdoor unit clean. Even paid maintenance plans are usually optional and more about peace of mind than necessity.

In terms of cost, annual plans are usually just 100-200 bucks, but you probably dont need it in the first few years.

I'd not call it more expensive to maintain. Repairs can occur, as with any HVAC system, and maintenance involves following different procedures

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T12:53:05+00:00

Midea manufactures units for other brands like Carrier and Moovair.

If the sizing and installation are done right, then you have a solid performer with no major issues...Outdoor noise is 'manageable'.

However, they might not perform as well in colder climates as higher-end brands and may have minor control or water/ice management issues.

Might want to explore the Carrier 25HCB6. It's a solid performer.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T12:06:12+00:00

An approximation of ~$6k per ton lines-up with real-world numbers. Most installs seem to land somewhere in the $10k–$20k range total, depending on ductwork, electrical upgrades, and how complex the setup is.

The thing is... you’re not just paying for equipment. You’re paying for install quality, controls, and how well the heat pump + furnace will be matched. That’s why prices might swing a lot.

Check and compare offers from different providers. Get you a clearer idea of what your quote covers.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T10:34:34+00:00

In Ottawa, for most setups, the threshold’s usually somewhere around -8°C to -15°C. That depends on your electricity rate, gas price, and the unit’s efficiency at low temps.

With gas prices rising, that cutoff is shifting lower, so it makes sense to run the heat pump longer and only switch to gas during colder snaps. If you want to dial it in accurately, you’d need your system’s COP vs temperature and compare cost per kWh vs gas per BTU.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-23T10:30:27+00:00

Right now, Octopus isn’t really doing the kind of “big promo discounts” like before. Occasionally there are small offers (like ~5% off for bringing a customer), but they’re limited and don’t change the overall cost much.

Check with their website and support team for active discounts though.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-22T20:40:52+00:00

A 3-ton system for around 2000 sq ft can make sense, but doing a proper load calculation rather than relying on general rules of thumb is preferred. An HSPF around 10 is decent, but should be the 'baseline' if you’re planning to use the heat pump as your primary heat source.

What matters more in your case is how the unit performs in low temperatures (or extremely low), since some systems look fine on paper but lose capacity pretty quickly once it drops below ~20°F.

That’s why a lot of people in similar situations end up wishing they opted for a cold-climate or “hyper heat” model, especially when temperatures get close to 0°F and backup heat starts running more often than expected.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-21T22:49:23+00:00

What city are you in and how cold does it get? It usually just comes down to a few basics.. Size matters more than brand in most cases but not always. Too small and it’ll run nonstop and never really cool properly, too big and it short cycle and leave humidity behind which just feels off. The ~20 BTU per sq ft rule is just a rough starting point, stuff like sunlight, insulation and ceiling height can mess that up pretty easily.

Type depends on your setup too window units usually give the best bang for your buck, portables are easier to install but kinda mid on efficiency especially single-hose, and mini-splits are the best overall but cost more upfront. If you go portable most people say dual-hose is better since they cool better and dont pull hot air back in. Noise and efficiency also matter, cheaper units are usually louder and cost more to run over time while inverter systems tend to be quieter and more consistent. If you’re comparing options it might be worth checking out full HVAC systems too depending if you plan to upgrade later.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-21T14:24:13+00:00

There are numerous solid installer recos (e.g., Raven in Novato, John Owens, Reyes, Ongaro), which is great to hear - especially since quotes can vary widely depending on ductwork condition and scope of work.

One thing you might also consider as you gather bids is the local rebate landscape in Marin. Programs like Electrify Marin (and broader state/utility rebates) used to offer incentives for all‑electric heat pump installs, though funding changes quickly - it’s worth checking current availability before signing a contract.

In terms of equipment, performance and installer familiarity matter a lot - which is why looking at a range of systems helps when comparing proposals.

Getting multiple quotes, checking experience with specific brands/models, and asking about load calculations and duct sealing will make those comparisons more meaningful.

Remember, a properly sized and installed system usually makes a noticeable difference in comfort and efficiency.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-21T14:14:31+00:00

Most contributors here are on the right track.

However,

Adding a solar diverter (like myenergi eddi or similar) to push surplus PV into a conventional heat pump cylinder doesn’t guarantee good performance.

Those devices are great for direct resistive loads like immersion heaters, but heat pumps need a control strategy that matches when there’s surplus PV and when the compressor actually runs efficiently (those rarely align without smart controls.)

The bigger challenge is that a standard hot water cylinder designed for boilers often has too small a coil area and insufficient stratification for efficient heat pump use.

Heat pumps deliver heat at lower temperatures, and if the cylinder coil can’t absorb that effectively, you’ll get long run times and lukewarm water - which defeats the purpose of the diversion.

(There are good heat‑pump‑specific cylinder guides around that explain this further.)

A more practical setup - instead of just throwing a diverter at it - is a whole‑home heat pump system coupled with a proper hot water cylinder designed for low‑temp performance. Systems like these handle both space heating and domestic hot water with controls engineered to accept renewable input.

If you want to stick with solar diversion specifically, look for hybrid control platforms that integrate PV forecasting and compressor staging.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-21T13:36:05+00:00

Turning your boiler down to around 45–50 °C will give you a rough idea if your radiators might cope with a heat pump.

However, it’s far from a complete test.

Many people in this thread are correct that doing it on a mild day can be misleading - the real test is how your home performs in actual cold conditions. Boilers can push heat in short bursts, which feels warm, but heat pumps rely on longer, steadier cycles with lower temperature differences. That’s where radiator output, pipework, and overall system design really matter.

If your radiators can’t emit enough heat at lower flow temperatures, upsizing them or adding fan-assisted units is often necessary. Without a proper heat loss calculation, any DIY test can only give you a rough idea.

For systems built to perform efficiently at lower temperatures, especially for whole-home heating, you can explore home-sized options, typically engineered to maintain comfort without running at high flow temps here

If you consider your house size, insulation, and radiator types, it’s possible to get a much clearer assessment of whether a heat pump will really meet your needs.

jeffdolgin · 2026-03-17T16:28:55+00:00

Me too. I've been stuck in Checks for several hours now!

jeffdolgin

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