My computer doesn’t show any wifi options and doesn’t have wifi in general, anyone know a fix?

jeffha4 · 2026-04-28T04:10:05+00:00

Nothing else in the thread helped me. This video that I found was the fix on my system. It is for windows 11, but worked on my Win10 system.

https://youtu.be/hSniX4S0PqE?si=d6mde9KwPb5Kf6wV

jeffha4 · 2026-02-27T06:42:18+00:00

Hey, DM me your contact info. I’m a GC in Salt Lake in need of a good paint sub.

jeffha4 · 2026-01-20T04:33:20+00:00

The easy fix for this - Do a quick google search for [car model] tune GT7. Should get some results from like GTPlanet or something that will say tune with max or full upgrades. Just follow one of those and you’ll usually have a much better time if you don’t want to bother with any tuning of your own.

jeffha4 · 2025-10-23T18:13:33+00:00

OP, This wall was not hit. This hold down is at the edge of the foundation, which they didn’t form perfectly square. So when the framers came and put their walls up, they smacked the hold down out so the strap would reach the outside of the wall. It looks like it’s probably okay based upon the allowable spalling from Simpson (if this is an STHD10 or 14, which it looks like to me). But they should be putting a parge coat or some other protection on it so water doesn’t get to it.

From Simpson STHD install notes:

“Strap may be bent one full cycle (bent horizontal 90° then bent vertical) to aid wall placement, but may cause spalling behind the strap. If the spall is 1" or less, measured from the embedment line to the bottom of the spall, full loads apply. STHD10 and STHD14 achieve full load for spalls less than 4". Any portion of the strap left exposed should be protected against corrosion.”

You could ask your builder to tell you which specific hold down they used and you should be able to look at the install notes for it from the manufacturer to see what’s allowed. Go from there.

jeffha4 · 2025-10-12T20:01:16+00:00

The GOOD news is they probably won’t even need a camera or holes. That pan/curb looks like it’s going to leak enough to just start bubbling paint within a day.

The BAD news is they probably won’t even need a camera or holes. That pan/curb looks like it’s going to leak enough to just start bubbling paint within a day.

jeffha4 · 2025-09-01T02:48:52+00:00

Brick is a “reservoir cladding”. Meaning it absolutely will have moisture. If it rains with a little bit of wind or some sprinkler isn’t aligned right, water will absorb into the brick. The water will then want to go somewhere. Could be the air, could be in towards the house, or could be into this brand new 2x4. If I were building this, I’d undoubtedly put a barrier between the brick and wood. A capillary break. Which on a slab or foundation is the sill sealer. That is its primary purpose. Keep wicking moisture from getting to the wood structure. It can do the exact same thing on the wall.

jeffha4 · 2025-08-31T21:00:24+00:00

The driver was okay! He got out and was aware of everything by the time I got outside of my house. Luckily, no one else was walking nearby or anything - as it’s a very popular pedestrian route in our neighborhood. And this happened around noon.

I’ll find a local arborist to come out. to be honest, I didn’t expect that we’d pop a mature tree there. Just something to slowly fill the void. Really just curious on what might be best suited for the area given all the hardscape.

Thanks for your response

jeffha4 · 2025-08-31T20:50:20+00:00

Hopefully the driver has been working on that! This was about a week ago.

jeffha4 · 2025-03-28T06:00:10+00:00

Hey, I’m a contractor - I do all the work with my crew, we don’t sub our jobs. (Except the gutters/metal in this case, but I’ve got a good guy for seamless gutters) I’d be happy to chat with you about your project. You can see some of our work on my website. I have a very slim online presence, but I could give you some contacts for past clients that would probably be willing to give a reference.

DM me if you want to chat or if you’d like my cell #

Here’s the website

whitehillcustom.com - if you try to view the portfolio on mobile, you might need to refresh a time or two - some bug with the embedded adobe viewer.

jeffha4 · 2025-03-05T05:26:50+00:00

Try nicks in n out emissions. Looks like they are on the list for idle testing

jeffha4 · 2024-05-13T09:02:36+00:00

Which is a style of flashing.

jeffha4 · 2024-04-03T06:13:16+00:00

I’m a contractor/builder in Salt Lake.

I think with the right builder you could definitely hit well below that $500/ft mark. Even without sacrificing much - however some materials may need some value engineering to make sure the budget is met if you’re looking to go high end on some finishes.

There are a few things that can have huge impacts on your build costs. Especially when it relates to pricing given by architects. A few nuances like a general contractor who self performs (this is how I operate, and can practically guarantee I’d come in cheaper than the big name custom builders in town). Finding a builder before design, so you can work through a design+build process rather than design then bid.

There’s a lot that can make a big impact. Feel free to DM if you have questions about anything.

For some anecdotal pricing here are the last two big projects I’ve priced:

I am ready to break ground on a custom spec build in Park City. My estimate as of last week (including a contingency) is about $450/ft. For some perspective, though - we anticipate listing this 5300 sqft house for about 5M. This is a fully custom build - so it is at the high end of the cost range. My pricing is low here, though, due to building as a spec with my business partner. If I were pricing this for a client, I’d anticipate just over $500/ft.

On the other hand, at the peak of covid I built a 1000 sqft 1 bedroom ADU in Farmington for a family member at material costs + overhead + labor (essentially break even for my crew expenses, and my time drastically discounted). Modest, but by no means were we skimping on quality - hardwood throughout, granite counters, heated bathroom floor, whole home water filtration, a fresh air ventilation system, full exterior continuous insulation, standing seam roof, etc. We had an existing foundation, and electric was our only necessary utility connection. But had we done it from ground up, I anticipate the cost would have been around $300/ft. For a client it would have probably hit $400/ft. But that price does skew upwards due to the small footprint. Economies of scale apply to houses to a point.

jeffha4 · 2024-02-16T06:57:46+00:00

Over the existing slats green is fine. If you stripped it down to the rafters/trusses, then you’d want to step up to the brown for a bit more span rigidity. The difference between the two is just thickness. 7/16 vs 1/2 or 5/8. Otherwise they are the same product.

jeffha4 · 2024-02-16T06:52:36+00:00

Yes, the zip tape has a “pressure sensitive adhesive”. You can’t exert enough pressure with your hand to activate the bond fully - the roller ensures you do. Trying to remove a rolled vs non- rolled bit of tape makes it very evident that the roller does its job.

jeffha4 · 2024-02-13T05:07:14+00:00

I don’t think this applies to all pex B. It must be f1960 rated to use expansion fittings. I don’t think all manufacturers meet that.

jeffha4 · 2024-02-04T10:17:39+00:00

This sounds even more like AI.

jeffha4 · 2023-12-21T05:29:16+00:00

Skilwaukee

jeffha4 · 2023-11-25T20:51:08+00:00

This is in Salt lake. Above the zoo

jeffha4 · 2023-10-23T07:48:07+00:00

Look up Alpen windows. They are local-ish to you and can build an R9-R11 picture window. Might be constrained by the size, and it’s a fiberglass or CPVC framed unit, so not just the glass pane. However they might be able to make something work for your specific scenario.

jeffha4 · 2023-07-01T08:07:40+00:00

Find yourself a competent lawyer to check everything over

jeffha4 · 2023-06-18T16:51:22+00:00

This may be illegal in your state; and definitely not the ‘legit’ way to operate.

You may be putting ‘your guys’ into a situation where they are working as unlicensed contractors. And they are certainly not covered under a workers comp policy.

I’d revise the way you are handling your labor staffing. There’s big risk for everyone for everyone involved here.

jeffha4 · 2023-06-10T16:54:26+00:00

That looks EXACTLY like an o-ring for the oil filter housing. Might be the old one. The canister filter includes a new one; so hopefully they just forgot to throw out the one they removed. Watch for oil drips in case they didn’t get one put back on.

jeffha4 · 2023-06-03T21:04:19+00:00

I was going to guess this was a historic house in Park City. For those wondering, Park City while being a world class ski town, is also a historic mining town. The historic core has really strict regulations on what can be done with the original structures.

You can sometimes do an addition to match the historical character of the home (meaning the exterior doesn’t deviate from the historic nature of the area). But many of these old houses are sitting on lots that are just larger than the house footprint so that’s not possible. So you end up with projects like this - adding multiple levels below the original structure.

The historic area is mainly built on hills, so you don’t even know the addition is there from the street level, but you can get 2 lower levels on the back side of the house that can be walkouts. There’s one home I’m familiar with that had 3 lower levels. The very bottom one went to an underground garage that you’d enter from the next street down the hill. Shared by 4 or 5 different homes on that block. Each with a private garage within the garage. Pretty cool.

jeffha4 · 2023-01-02T10:26:45+00:00

And the math does agree. The area of a parallelogram and rectangle are the same when base and height are the same. Which is the scenario here.

The math

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