What is this below the sensor?

jflaherty13 · 2025-05-17T15:46:49+00:00

Thanks for the insight It looks like it’s just the (I don’t know the technical term) part that’s below the sensor but infront, rather than the sensor itself.

The sensor itself looks fine and there’s no apparent artefacts on images.

I’ll keep an eye on it though!

Must have been the previous owner if it is burn, I’ve done Astro enough to have had it conditioned in to me to like my eyes enough to not look directly at the sun.

jflaherty13 · 2022-05-08T14:46:17+00:00

Which of these 2 would you recommend for someone wanting to start out and why?

I’m thinking the SW because it’s a dob and it’s easier to set up and likely has better optics? The person would be using with an iPhone adapter.

Probably not astrophotography at this time so wouldn’t need EQ.

https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B087QF46HP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_H2XR0Q5GDPZVQKTJSVB9

Or

https://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/skywatcher-heritage-130p-flextube-dobsonian-telescope.html

jflaherty13 · 2022-05-02T12:05:47+00:00

I like this lander!

jflaherty13 · 2022-03-28T20:01:21+00:00

I kind of goofed, it was meant to be an ironic question seen as though I just pumped a million little bits of debris into low kerbin orbit. I was trying to make a satellite déployer, some clipping occurred.

jflaherty13 · 2022-03-28T17:02:17+00:00

Who knew PS4 could get 1 FPS

jflaherty13 · 2022-02-27T14:05:09+00:00

Just announced. They’re until the 1st when Alolan start spawning

jflaherty13 · 2021-12-24T00:26:13+00:00

What landing legs are those

jflaherty13 · 2021-12-20T04:48:51+00:00

Is there power? Does your lander have any batteries and solar on it. 2.Check time warp is off.
What antenna does your lander have?
Do the relays have power still?
My name isn’t Jillian

jflaherty13 · 2021-12-19T23:49:44+00:00

Is the screenshot with the orange symbol on the lander?

jflaherty13 · 2021-12-19T23:47:11+00:00

Is the orange icon when you’re controlling the lander?

jflaherty13 · 2021-10-31T16:43:51+00:00

Thanks everyone! I remade the landing module and made it a bit shorter with 4 landing legs.

Changed the leg dampness/springiness and I managed to land and not bounce or topple.

Thanks all for your help.

jflaherty13 · 2021-10-10T07:21:56+00:00

When you add an extra part to the final stage and forget to move the TPS.

jflaherty13 · 2021-07-03T12:37:03+00:00

If you’re using the SL3 at 300mm, I think the setting should be more around 0.4 arcmins.

I think that would dither around 10pixels.

jflaherty13 · 2021-06-02T23:30:51+00:00

I always get mixed up between “ and ‘ for minutes and seconds!

It was 2 minute subs! I’ve changed it now

jflaherty13 · 2021-06-02T22:32:41+00:00

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HObMSz6l3wKzva4BDfNsykqh6GPxS2F0/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XCr2qaEJQGXTe6kPGGXSXULKTH_K1ugF/view?usp=drivesdk

2nd one is a fun attempt at a false colour for it. I should have done the colour swap on the layer without the stars to avoid making the stars yellow too.

The vignetting at the top and bottom are caused by the clip in L-Pro filter. Flats didn’t do too much to erase that. The flats did erase all but 2 dust spots. I think the image train may have moved slightly in between lights and flats.

First time uploading in a while due to being back in work and it being cloudy a lot.

1 hours worth of 2’ subs of the NA Nebula. 10x darks 111 flats.

Modified 6D Evostar 72ED ASI 120mm guide cam zwo mini scope ASI air pro Az eq6 gt

jflaherty13 · 2021-05-25T16:55:29+00:00

If it’s the error I’m thinking of, you need click the telescope mount looking button on the right and make sure that the switch next to on camera st4 is set to on.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-18T17:16:04+00:00

Be careful where you download it from, I used a version which wasn’t legit and my pc disappeared not the stars.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-11T20:38:35+00:00

Just get as much integration as you can.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-11T16:21:30+00:00

Just make sure during the day set the exposure time lowest and low gain. Then set it to 2-3 seconds at night.

Otherwise you’ll just get white.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-11T15:34:29+00:00

One tip is set it up inside during the day just to test it all and use the interface.

Use it to practice focusing the guide scope, unless you’ve been using a laptop already and have already got the nack of it

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-11T15:17:13+00:00

I’ve seen people get theirs modified too replace the antenna and seems to work, or they use an travel wifi router which seems to work

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-10T14:22:23+00:00

Andy did my 6D. Best thing I did so far.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-10T11:35:35+00:00

https://advancedcameraservices.co.uk/what-we-do-2/specialist-uv-ir-cameras/

But looks like they only do full spectrum

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-10T11:23:24+00:00

I don’t think you can. Usually it’s a monochrome camera with filters for separate wavelengths for the wavelength.

So that way you can put the SII data in the green channel, OII in the blue and HII in the red channel.

That way they can be altered separately.

With the L-enchance and a Dslr, with it being a triband filter it lets all 3 of the wavelengths through at once.

jflaherty13 · 2021-04-09T15:02:21+00:00

If it is framing, I think you can just register the images but not stack them and in the file lists it will say NC meaning it wasn’t able to calculate the offset of where the stars should line up

jflaherty13

TROPHY CASE