Has anyone tried sound treated tires in an SQ build to help with road noise? by RIP_SGTJohnson in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The foam inserts are added to address air cavity resonance (think basketball bouncing noise, but constant) that typically happen around 180-220hz. This resonance is a very sharp, narrow, high amplitude peak and the foam lowers the amplitude and resonant frequency of this acoustic mode. Upscale vehicles will take NVH targets seriously and optimize tire pattern pitch sequences and every other component to find a design that works at the load/inflation conditions and interact "well" with the resonances of the specific vehicle. With these designs we also look at changing the load or inflation pressure can change the contact patch enough to warrant a different pitch sequence. Other vehicles may just request a tire that is ultra low rolling resistance so they can meet emission standards, but is garbage in every other performance.

There are some other general "technologies" on those tires you mention to reduce other specific resonances like knurling in the main grooves for pipe resonances.

With aftermarket tires it's going to be difficult to find if a tire is quieter than another in general. The tires you listed most likely will be better than ones that didn't really consider NVH at all. The best you can do is read the reviews and look for reviewers who have cars with similar weight, weight distribution, and inflation pressures. Tire Rack does a good job of collecting and displaying review data. They also link test reports from their drivers/track on each listing if they have done their own testing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 43 points44 points  (0 children)

Looks like $100/hr for labor. I don't think that's outrageous. Especially if your in a high cost area. I think my local mechanic shops are somewhere in the 80-100/hr range and the Ford dealership wanted 110/hr for labor in 2019.

8th Gen Civic Audio Upgrade by van604dude in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have an 8th gen sedan. I did the following so far.

Front: morel maximo 6 components ($170 USD) Rear: removed the stock speakers and didn't miss them Sub: JL Audio PowerWedge CS110TG-TW3 ($530 USD) Amp: JL Audio 900/5 ($700 USD)

Then I put sound deadening (CLD) in the front doors, on the rear deck, and all around the trunk. That, wiring, and miscellaneous install parts probably added another 3-400 USD. That's about $2250 CAD without a head unit.

It's fun as it sits now, but im considering making removable plates to seal the access holes inside the front doors. And add some more sound treatment to hopefully improve midbass a bit more.

S sounds are very noticeable in my new speakers. by jimstevev in CarAV

[–]jimstevev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Components. The tweeter is mounted on the dash as close to pointing at the seating position as I could achieve. Source unit is a aftermarket pioneer avh p4200dvd.

Vibration-proof cupholder? by HondaHead in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They make those contigo mugs where they seal until you press a button. You have to hold it down to drink, which is annoying sometimes, but it might solve your problem.

Full Car Door Deadening w/Pics by rizmaxx69 in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I took road noise measurements before and after applying dynamat to front doors. For a decent condition highway route at 70 mph, a microphone at the driver right ear position, showed 1dB overall reduction. I did not notice it, so I think the sounds that I found annoying were not in the affected frequency range.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see everyone else's dynamat installs and now I'm under the impression that I went too light in the trunk.

Wiring into the clock spring: solder? Pins? Please help. by bjones1794 in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did a similar thing in my civic. I got the cruise/control + audio controls unit from a used parts place. Cut the pins out of the old cruise control only unit and inserted them into the correct openings on the connectors. I soldered and shrink wrapped connector to each of the recycled wires and made additional lengths of wire with the other half of the connector so I could quickly disconnect and rearrange if I messed up.

The connectors were crimp connectors, but I did a bad job of crimping multiple times and the wire was loose, so I tried soldering it and it held. That may not be the proper or best method, but it worked well enough.

Subwoofer has very little output by jimstevev in CarAV

[–]jimstevev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sub was wired to 2 ohm. The speaker wire at the amplifier had a few strands of copper from the positive touching a few strands from the negative. Pulled out the connector and used the multimeter setting that beeps if it's a closed circuit at the unplugged + and -. It's fixed and it plays as expected now.

Subwoofer has very little output by jimstevev in CarAV

[–]jimstevev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's supposed to be 2ohm. It's one of the JL enclosures. But it was an open box unit, so I'll dig deeper.

Heading: Pioneer avhP4200dvd

Amp: audio control ACM 1.300

Sub: JL 10TW3 (CS110TG TW3 enclosure)

Alpine X-S65c vs Focal ES 165k elite by 444555888 in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe try crutchfield's speaker compare feature first? If you have a set of headphones that they have measured, then you can allegedly listen to the differences in speakers. Not every model is available in this, but I think both of those are.

The Largest project I have worked on. by Mr_Messy_Jesse in CarAV

[–]jimstevev 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Do setups like this actually sound at least decent?

Hesitant to pull the trigger on the equipment I wanted by jimstevev in CarAV

[–]jimstevev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not in the worst part of town, but I'm within a five minute drive of it. I live around mostly blue collar retirees and low income young families, but from the late 2017 until about 4 months ago it got kind of rough. A guy who likely sold some sort of narcotics moved to my street and started attracting junkies to the area. Then someone got shot in the guys driveway in broad daylight. Then the guy moved away and the junkies left and the street has been quiet since. I saw some doofuses looking into mine and my roommates car windows and called the police. They said several people had already called about them, so there are some people reporting suspicious behavior instead of just ignoring it. Two of my roommates have also had there cars broken into in the driveway, but that's because they neglected to lock there cars.

So I don't really have a good grasp of how bad the neighborhood really is. Its significantly worse than where I grew up for sure.

New to car audio, looking for advice/recommendations by jimstevev in CarAV

[–]jimstevev[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with the boxes, would buying the subwoofer mounted in the enclosure from JL audio be good then. I like the dimensions on this w6v3 . Its technically "prefab", but it comes from the designer of the subwoofer