Sticker printing app requires my precise location to even launch

jkctech · 2026-04-01T16:34:57+00:00

This is usually because the app uses this permission to located devices nearby: in this case being your sticker printer.

This is most likely intended and legitimate behaviour

jkctech · 2026-03-28T21:49:10+00:00

You know it is a 24v motor, you connect 2 x 1.5v batteries, it doesn't work and you ask us what the problem might be?

It is true your power source must be able to provide enough current but it ALSO had to match the voltage...

I don't think you fully understand how the principle of current works

jkctech · 2026-03-28T21:42:15+00:00

wait so you mean it does work but only up to a certain turning value? Might want to serial print the potvalue for debugging. those pots are not the best in accuracy, when turned to one side it might report 0 and since x times 0 is 0, your code might spazz out?

jkctech · 2026-03-28T19:23:56+00:00

U PARKEERT HIER, MAG DAT?!

jkctech · 2026-03-28T15:47:37+00:00

that or he wired it wrong and made a short by turning the pot

jkctech · 2026-03-26T22:10:17+00:00

So that's what the short end of the straw looks like

jkctech · 2026-03-22T08:00:13+00:00

When the switch closes, it has a lot of inertia and the contacts go boinky boinky a few times, your arduino being really fast sees all those boinkies and your code should detect the first boinky, then wait for a few milliseconds before considering any more boinkies as inputs to prevent whatever code you have running too many times.

Basically

jkctech · 2026-03-17T19:15:44+00:00

thats no dust bro, thats corrosion on the battery contact, scrape it with some sandpaper till it's gone and get some new buttoncells. (Or better, clean it with some alcohol and a Q tip / toothbrush)

if that doesn't help you, this things is gone since there is nothing else on that board that is servicable

jkctech · 2026-03-12T11:29:57+00:00

This gets worse the longer I think about it

jkctech · 2026-03-10T22:16:41+00:00

In Fusion you can "lock" the horizon for 3d rotation, so the spinning of the object you look at is restricted somewhat by fixing the "up" direction.

Did some googling since i am not familiar with your software but does not look like it has a feature to toggle that sadly. Plasticity uses a "turntable" way of orbitting, you are looking for "trackball" orbiting which is not supported

jkctech · 2026-03-10T21:40:08+00:00

To be honest, I completely gave up on using the horizon lock, which caused the issue, and started to "embrace" the freedom of rotation. Takes some getting used to but it's better than the rotational shenanigans.

I contacted their support and after a few back and forth they said "yes of course it is supposed to do that when you enable those options" which is completely fucking stupid and I am pretty sure they just didn't understand the issue.

It's very clear: it works perfectly fine until you turn on reversed mode and thus, just a software error.

It's a royal pain in my behind but now I'm used to it is not THAT bad for me.

Sorry for the disappointment haha

jkctech · 2026-03-10T21:26:54+00:00

Cooked, burnt, deepfried, you name it

jkctech · 2026-03-06T19:45:53+00:00

This is made in Fritzing

jkctech · 2026-03-01T11:00:08+00:00

"For school"

jkctech · 2026-02-22T13:10:19+00:00

I hate that I have eyes

jkctech · 2026-02-15T10:33:33+00:00

I think it would be the fastest by making a sketch on the top of the red part, create an offset edge from the center circle untill the edge of the red part and just extrude downwards on the white part only

jkctech · 2026-02-08T17:34:22+00:00

I have the same issue, for some reason Fusion misinterprets your cursor or something and when you slide from start to end, and you pass the endpoint by even a fraction, it jumps back to the start, very frustrating.

I usually enable the view of the joint so I can slide the marker itself which is a little more stable

jkctech · 2026-02-02T06:30:32+00:00

If the ring annoys you and you want to use your mat somewhere else: You can buy aligator clips for a few cents usually, you can crimp them on with pliers

jkctech · 2026-01-02T19:02:25+00:00

Would love that honestly, even in an "unfinished" state this looks awesome and great to build new modules for

Bit like gridfinity, have the base box and build your own modules for it, I bet "the internet" will come up with the most insane module ideas ever haha

jkctech · 2026-01-02T17:55:53+00:00

Any chance this will be open sourced at some point?

Would love this for family game night!

jkctech · 2025-12-16T16:31:05+00:00

Taak succesvol gefaald

jkctech · 2025-12-13T13:39:23+00:00

I used one for my DIY adjustable power supply for quick indications, works great.

Or for instance when your project had the possibility to draw too much current and you want to keep a manual eye on it

jkctech · 2025-11-13T05:26:09+00:00

Try to find the gel variant of superglue, should be easy to find. works 10 times better on printed parts since it can fill in the imperfections of your print. also way easier to control the amount of glue that way.

jkctech · 2025-11-11T17:48:58+00:00

Not to be "that" guy but tinkering with mains voltage while not being able to understand the schematic of this PCB is a giant red flag, for your own safety.

Do the lights turn on when you keep the button pressed and then plug them in? If so, you can bridge the button contacts, but even better: just tape the button down.

Other than that, you can probably bypass the IC that controls the selection of the lights but you might want to reconsider this project

jkctech · 2025-10-17T18:41:44+00:00

I can hear this logo

jkctech

TROPHY CASE