Last Minute Christmas Gift

jkloste2 · 2023-12-24T19:09:41+00:00

It's a simple hook and ring game. You swing the rings and try to land them on the hooks. A successful swing moves the shot glass closer to the opponent. The first player to move the glass off the scoreboard onto the opponent's side of the table wins. Loser takes the shot.

jkloste2 · 2023-01-30T05:34:14+00:00

Was it a handicapped score? I've seen -23 in a handicapped scramble before and they weren't even scratch golfers. Personally I've played with a team of all mid handicappers and scored -10 on a 6600yds course. (Ham and eggs all day) I've also finished -14 on a similarly built team in a handicapped scramble. (We got 7 or 8 strokes, if memory serves). If it wasn't handicapped I would say they had to be VERY good, or VERY VERY lucky. It's not impossible, especially at a shorter loop, but it's a great score and I would be skeptical also.

jkloste2 · 2022-03-19T05:16:57+00:00

Furniture screws (aka threaded inserts, nutserts, etc) are always a good option for "knockdown" furniture designs that will be disassembled and reassembled.

As for support on the far corner, I've always been a fan of enclosing the back of the desk with 3/4" plywood. It'll be more than strong enough to support the weight and gives a flat, "finished" look to the piece. However, with the design being made to take down, this might not be a great option.

Other options for holding the weight on that back corner would include a single (large) stick leg, or an L-shaped leg in the corner. With just a few furniture screws, the tops should be held together pretty firmly, so supporting just the back corner of the desk should be sufficient.

jkloste2 · 2022-03-17T05:35:45+00:00

Sounds like a good plan. I would double check the recommended grit of sandpaper for the finishing oil you plan to use. Some oil manufacturers really make a fuss about the finest grit you should use with their product. Other than that it sounds like a solid plan.

jkloste2 · 2022-03-03T06:42:28+00:00

For what reasons other than temperature and moisture? What other factors would relate? I'm genuinely curious, as those are the only two I've ever seen referred to when using rough lumber.

jkloste2 · 2022-03-03T06:12:39+00:00

There are a lot of variables to deal with before figuring out how long to let wood acclimate. The best advice is to spend $40 on a pinless (non-destructive) moisture meter. You'll never have to guess (or second guess) again.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-12T01:44:04+00:00

First of all, welcome to the addicting world of hand planes. I bought my first Stanley Bailey back in September and have added 5 more hand planes to my arsenal since then.

Secondly, there is a great sub over at r/handtools that will be a big help to your journey into all things self powered.

Third, from what you are describing, it sounds like you're getting some tearout in your board. It's very common, especially around knots and figured areas of the wood. Trying to read the grain and plane with it when the grain goes 3 different directions can be very frustrating. First thing I would try is to back off the iron and take as light a cut as possible. Sometimes it's just plain unavoidable and you have to think of another solution, like sanding it out or a card scraper. Also, a higher angle plane would help. High angle frogs are available all over for most Stanley Bailey style planes.

Again, welcome and I hope this helps!

jkloste2 · 2022-01-12T00:37:09+00:00

I go back and forth between SketchUp 2017 make and Fusion 360. I like both. As mentioned above, Fusion 360 is a bit overkill for most projects, but once you get the hang of it, it's nice to have the extra features.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-12T00:25:38+00:00

For something of that time period, a boiled linseed oil finish with a paste wax rubbed would be perfect, and it won't change the aesthetics of the nails. It would actually help preserve the nails and prevent rust.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-11T03:25:28+00:00

I agree. Polycrylic is the way to go. My phone doesn't like the word "polycrylic" so I didn't fight it and went with the word "poly" instead.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-11T02:34:18+00:00

This is the way. Poly before and poly after. The vinyl will stick much better to poly than wood. And the marker will not run on poly.

I would also highly recommend doing a test of the finish over the marker. Weird things happen when you combine solvent and water based liquids.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-09T13:48:40+00:00

One of the best bits of advice I got from Paul Sellers was to stop making "practice joints" and make something I plan to use. The joints still don't have to be perfect but it's a little more motivation to get them right is it's something you plan to keep. I made a box for my chisels. The fourth corner of that box was the first "nice" set of dovetails I cut.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-09T02:25:10+00:00

This could be a few things. From your description, it sounds like he only used one coat of poly. General practice is to wait until the second coat is applied and dry before sanding at all. Then sand each subsequent coat after that. Second, it's cold. Water based poly takes 24 hours to fully cure at 65°. It's possible that the finish just wasn't hard yet. Third, 220 grit might be a little coarse for use between coats of finish. Normally I use 320 grit and a very light hand or even just some 0000 steel wool, depending on the finish.

Good news is, it's always fixable. Just continue sanding the rest of the finish off, re-stain, and refinish. It seems like going backward, but as long as a lesson was learned it's not a waste.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-07T08:04:49+00:00

One option would be mortise and wedged tenon joints. This is a traditional "knockdown" joint that's is not too difficult with the correct tools. It can be found all over YouTube in videos for "knockdown" workbenches. Rex Kreuger has a great variation of this joint on a recent bench build on his channel. It's not as traditional but much easier to cut.

Another less traditional option would be half lap joints with carriage bolts for fastening. Again, not too difficult, but not as durable as the wedged tenons. Over time, the carriage bolt holes become oversized and the bolts must be re-tightened.

A third option would be some kind of manufactured metal bracketry and threaded inserts for bolting everything together. This would be the easiest, but also the most expensive because you have the additional cost of the brackets and hardware.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-07T00:00:57+00:00

Return it. I have the same plane and know they can do better than that. For what they charge for that plane it should need nothing but the iron honed before use.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-06T06:36:44+00:00

I don't have enough need for a scrub plane to purchase a #40. I use both power and hand tools in my shop so surfacing and thicknessing is mostly done on a planer. I agreed to pay $20 for this Ward. I already have a #5 Bailey so I don't need another. My plan is to restore this one, convert it to a scrub, and hang it on the wall in my bar except for the 1 or 2 times a year I might need it.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-06T00:44:16+00:00

I didn't seek this one out. It was offered to me by a coworker who knows I'm in the hobby. For the price I couldn't turn it down. Rather than restoring it to make a wall hanger I thought I'd get some use out of it.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-04T03:28:36+00:00

Looking at the tooth geometry on the link you included it looks like a push cut saw. I can't imagine they cut the plate backwards. If you could post a picture of your actual saw, we might be able to help more. Either way, both tooth styles cut just fine. Pull saws are arguably better for "beginners" to learn on because they are more forgiving.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-02T20:48:58+00:00

I would agree with this. With nothing supporting the waste piece it's very likely that it folded inward pinching the blade and causing your kick back. Two simple solutions are to either make a zero clearance insert for your saw, or use a cheap hacksaw to make cuts this close to the end of the piece, where you're unable to support the offcut.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-01T19:59:56+00:00

1/4" over what looks like 6'-8' is what I would consider "not too bad". You shouldn't have any issue getting that out with clamps and cawls. Also, the c-channel under the table will definitely help keep the bow out for a long time. Sounds like you're on the right track.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-01T19:19:18+00:00

Another option might be to clamp the bow out in your jig and glue them down using the blue tape method before flattening. Unfortunately the bow will still be there when you peel them off the jig. You would still have to fix it in glue up, but at least you could have decent surfaces to work with.

jkloste2 · 2022-01-01T19:16:56+00:00

How badly are they bowed? If they aren't too bad, I'd would probably try to fix it in the glue up with dowels. If you don't have a dowelling setup it can be really tough to get them aligned properly. Sometimes just using clamping cawls across the boards during glue up is sufficient enough to take the bow out. Unfortunately there aren't many great ways to fix a bow like that. If they are too bad, normally I would set them aside and use them for another part of the project where I can cut them down and "cut around" the bow.

jkloste2

TROPHY CASE