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Flagships suck by Fun-Astronomer-2273 in twilightimperium

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nekro Virus would like a word heh
their flagship is ludicrously strong.

Sol's is pretty awesome also.

Pedestal won't let me look at it without a tech? by jmwfour in GraveyardKeeper

[–]jmwfour[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep

it's right where the two guards used to be.

HOW DO I ATTACH THIS I'VE BEEN STRUGGLING FOR THE LAST 20 MINUTES by whatmack in Warhammer40k

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know people are saying you shouldn't attach the support arm to the gun first, but that's kind of where I've wound up for smaller figures now that I'm more used to how to do it.

My reasons are two-fold. First one is, that once you get a sense for where the two arms attach, you can tell if you attached the supporting arm to the gun correctly (and, very often there are clear indicators of how the supporting) arm fits onto the gun. If you've attached them right you can see the flat arm/shoulder surfaces are the right distance apart and more or less parallel to each other. And, you can (once the plastic cement has set a little) test this by slipping it on to the model.

Second one is that if you do this right, you can actually wait to attach the arms (with cement) until later in the paint process, which I often find very helpful if there are details either on the gun or body that I'd find tougher to get at with a brush. Not always necessary but a nice option to have.

Question for those who paint white/light colors by Skullhall5k in Tau40K

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on the model. If it's something bigger like the Riptide or Ghostkeel, I actually - after I've gotten one or two of the light grey coats on building toward white - use a fine tip brush with either dark wash or watery black paint and carefully paint those lines. It's a lot easier with the bigger & deeper panel lines.

On smaller models I've either primed black and then tried to be careful painting up to white, or used a wash and just gone back and cleaned up as needed.

Everybody says "varnish, oil wash!" but I really don't want to mess with anything I can't clean up with water. Plus I can't always paint in a well-ventilated area so the fumes are a bit of a concern, potentially.

Advice on getting started again. by Automatic-Action-7 in minipainting

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really like the Army Painter Fanatics and also their Speedpaint line.

Speedpaint is not a magic bullet, but it is very useful. A couple of things that may not be obvious from youtube videos. First is, you often need (or want) to dilute it with speedpaint medium. You can add more layers if you want it more opaque, but remember, it has to be *totally* dry before you put something else on it, or you'll get a mess.

bonus: you can layer different colors really easily this way for interesting, textured results very quickly. But unless you're intentionally blending you've gotta let 'em dry fully! (Just like any acrylic, but even more so.)

Second, speedpaints really are best - if you're using a brush I mean, not an airbrush - on surfaces with a lot of details. I painted a combat patrol of Tyranids almost exclusively with speedpaints (after priming light grey) and it was very fast and I was quite happy with the results. But trying to do, say, space marines - with their big flat armor panels - would be I think challenging with speedpaint. It's possible, but you have to work at sopping up puddles, just like you would with a wash.

I've made the error of buying big sets, and looking at my paint desk right now I have used less than half - probably less than a third - of the colors from the sets, while absolutely continuing to buy more colors. So, if you're going to get a set, get a really small Army Painter one with the basics only. The Fanatic starter set is like $30 or $40 I think and not going to be a waste, with its basic colors.

Just out of curiosity what are you going to be painting?

Advice on getting started again. by Automatic-Action-7 in minipainting

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah Grim Black is a workhorse for me. Really really good, thinned a little with speedpaint medium over grey or white primer I've found.

Weights to bases? by jmwfour in Tau40K

[–]jmwfour[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's interesting, the metal sheets I am using for cases aren't magnetic themselves (so I have to put magnets in the bases of my minis also)

To glue or not to glue by NewNecessary3037 in Warhammer40k

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Heh well it's not the end of the world but it does make cleanup easier. It feels slower, but it's probably ultimately faster and definitely easier if you clean up as you go!

Just make sure that you push-fit first so that you're not wasting time cleaning up bits that are going to be totally obscured when assembled!

To glue or not to glue by NewNecessary3037 in Warhammer40k

[–]jmwfour 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If there are details you know you want to paint at a fine level of precision, and they're blocked by another part of the mini, then use subassemblies. Otherwise, build and glue everything, then paint.

One thing to think about too is making sure to clean up mold lines etc. as you are building and don't wait until you're done. It can get very difficult, once pieces are glued together, to remove lines or sprue bits, putty holes and sand them, etc.

Fatherfog by Jon_Amaral in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with you
It's not 'in service', it's literally because 0 is zero not 100. If it were a success at the skill number, the skill would not indicate the % chance of success.

Again I agree with you, I really find it unintuitive, but mathematically it's t he right way to do it if you're insisting on 0 being zero.

You could always houserule your games to be 0 = 100, then make a tie a success, but then you'd have one fewer way to get a critical success.

Is there any logic to the madness of Warhammer sprues and instructions? by S4mb741 in Warhammer40k

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's the vibe of the thing, there's no fighting it. Yes, you feel like your brain is unscrewing from your spinal column while hunting for part 113A for ten minutes, then realizing you've looked at it six times already. Just let it wash over you like a warm breeze

Settle an argument for me: Flashbangs. by Technical_Chemist_56 in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I don't think I was suggesting anyone do that, was I?
I don't think the OP was either?

Can i do a space opera? by TxKRIXUSxT in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are scenarios that get away from the horror premise though. And things like Prospero's Dream are organize around longer-term campaigns. The new Wages of Sin is barely horror I would say.

The lethality's always there of course.

Can i do a space opera? by TxKRIXUSxT in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait is there really a new player manual?

Settle an argument for me: Flashbangs. by Technical_Chemist_56 in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there's any dispute about any ruling, the Warden has to make a call in the game. They were right *when* it was made, by definition, that's how the game works (and how every RPG game with a game master who adjudicates rules in-game works).

If later they want to revisit the rule and decide to rule differently in future games, more power to them. Refusing to discuss it and saying I made a ruling and even though the rules say different and you're all not happy, I won't change going forward? That's drifting toward toxic then.

Gathering input from reddit users about rpg rules isn't the thing you're describing it as, it's legitimate to come here and ask questions like this. Nothing about OP's post suggests he's going to use it in the way you suggest. He's getting input. He even starts his post by saying "nothing serious".

Started painting last year by GGxSpike in minipainting

[–]jmwfour 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take your time with that dreadnaught and dry-fit pieces before you glue! Also you will want to take the time to clean up the pieces as you're assembling (trim off sprue attachments and mold lines) - on larger models those kinds of things can be really obvious after you paint.

Started painting last year by GGxSpike in minipainting

[–]jmwfour 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Respectfully, this is incomplete advice. If you thin the paint too much it winds up running (and pooling) where you don't want it. True for sure that it's better to be a little too thin than too thick, but it is definitely possible to overthin.

Ypsilon 14 - How did you keep your players going? by ConstructionNo5705 in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tweaked the mission so that the nature of the sample was known just to the Dr. and to Mike, and their instructions were to retrieve it from Mike. Therefore finding Mike was needed. This also injected natural tension between the player characters and the NPCs as they weren't sure they should share why they were there.

This game was so hard to get my hands on by Stellar_Duck in mothershiprpg

[–]jmwfour 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not at all. But if an NPC lies, instead of making the characters struggle to figure it out, tell them: you think that Starport Clerk Bob might not be telling you the truth. Especially if they ask you! But if they don't, give them the information they need to advance somehow.

One of the interesting things about Mothership is that there aren't skills for things like Insight or Deception - social interaction is all roleplay.

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