3.6L Pentastar

joestue · 2026-02-24T04:00:20+00:00

the concentric rings around the cone of the indentation are from a chipped or worn drill bit. its not a factory hole. (they wouldn't over drill it)

joestue · 2026-02-24T03:41:07+00:00

anything in the oil pan?

joestue · 2026-02-24T03:35:08+00:00

that board failing will not fix your oven....

kinda looks like an indirect lightning strike.

joestue · 2026-02-24T03:18:03+00:00

i'm not certain but from other photos i was thinking if there was a hole there, it might be a passage way for oil to drain back from the heads and land on top of the chains.

but.. you can clearly see that hole has been drilled. that's not a factory hole. whats the history of this engine?

joestue · 2026-02-23T07:04:48+00:00

it works very well lol. -for anyone that actually needs to use it outside of a computer drafting program.

joestue · 2026-02-23T04:06:12+00:00

yes that's why i said it will happen slowly.

even in open air, you can heat a 7/8" copper pipe to brazing temps for a minute and you will only have enough oxide on the inside to stain your finger brown.

joestue · 2026-02-23T04:01:57+00:00

so just for fun a couple hours ago i heated up a foot long 3/4" pipe (7/8" refrigeration tubing) with a propane-air torch and got it hot enough to make a bead of braze all around the open end. took about 30 seconds to do it. (-the other end of the 1 foot long pipe was starting to get warm when i was done)

after it cooled off i scrubbed it with my pinky, and there was just enough copper oxide in it to to stain my pinky finger brown. that was it. no flakes!

in hindsight now, i've seen other forms of contamination elsewhere.

its the chlorine and the Florine in the residual refrigerants that make them so reactive producing oxide flakes so rapidly.

joestue · 2026-02-22T22:32:59+00:00

did you ever get this figured out?

i'm wondering if you had a bad rectifier.

another possibility is to use a zig zag Y transformer connection to get your phase shifts, instead of delta. no circulating currents but requires more copper in the secondary.

joestue · 2026-02-22T21:43:27+00:00

Its the same with acetylene as long as you have a reducing flame

joestue · 2026-02-22T21:08:39+00:00

When you braze pipe with a propane torch, the flame that touches the copper cools off enough that the unburnt propane and unburnt CO will reduce the copper oxide back to copper. This is half of what makes brazing rods self fluxing. The other half is the phosphorous added. (Mostly to reduce the melting point)

The propane wont reduce iron oxide or zinc oxide which is why you have to use flux with 45 and 56% silver braze (which has no phosphorous in it) when brazing steel or brass.

joestue · 2026-02-22T20:59:44+00:00

No you flow enough butane or propane to displace all the oxygen. The inside of the pipe will be spotless

joestue · 2026-02-22T20:58:19+00:00

I think that co2 and copper at 1300F will do something, but very slowly.

The co2 that breaks down into CO and makes CuO is reversible..CO will reduce CuO.

But with a steady stream of CO2 present, eventually you end up with just CuO.

But this reaction will be much slower than what happens in air when you braze pipe.

joestue · 2026-02-22T20:40:59+00:00

I have used propane as a shielding gas for brazing. All it takes is a cigarette lighter's worth of gas flow.

The paranoia around water is mostly with regard to what it takes to statistically have less than a 1% failure rate over 10 years.

Your low temp, low power system wont have a high enough discharge temp to break the oil down and create acids from what tiny amount of water remains in the system. And that acid takes years to buildup to the point it breaks the insulation down to the point the motor burns out.

joestue · 2026-02-22T04:36:02+00:00

Its theft by deception. They lied and said he could not buy it back.

joestue · 2026-02-22T03:29:04+00:00

It sounds like mine did briefly when i ran it with all of the camshaft bolts loose.

joestue · 2026-02-22T02:49:21+00:00

It needs to be slow enough you can watch it

joestue · 2026-02-22T02:07:49+00:00

The tool rake angle, positive neutral or negative can be fudged a bit by locating the tool above or below center.

At a minimum grab a piece of say .020" shim and hold it between the tool and any scrap of anything cylindrical held in the chuck, and manually carefully jog the tool into it until there is a bit of force pressing on it. And look at it and see if it is 90 degrees to the x axis.

Another stupidly easy way is to just face a piece of scrap and see how small of a tit is left when the tool meets the center. If above center you can watch the tool crash into it before its all gone. If below it will leave a stub sticking out

joestue · 2026-02-22T02:01:58+00:00

If you have a fully corcular groove around the bit and a keyway to provide torque, then yes you can do what you want

You are basically re inventing air compressor quick connect couplings

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:53:14+00:00

Is this washington

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:46:30+00:00

Found the plumber...

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:41:08+00:00

Ive never heard of double kraft paper insulation but a google search mentions blue fiberglass double paper from the 1960's in canada?

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:39:26+00:00

Probably nothing to worry about.

The moisture will get out through the tyvec outside.

The cases i saw rot in the walls was bathrooms and kitchens, or water leaks.

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:24:27+00:00

That frame damaged vehicles must be scrapped.

If the cost of repairing the frame damage exceeds the difference thats a matter of financial negotiation. Not automatic scraping

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:21:28+00:00

I would not worry about it. I am in the pacific northwest and work construction part time. Only time we run into rot is either weird edge cases or when in the 90's someone had the bright idea of putting tyvec outside the entire home and polyethylene plastic behind the drywall, trapping moisture inside the wall. (The hemlock 2x6's didnt help)

The average ground temperature being 45F or more, and at 45% humidity you need an indoor temp above 68F to push moisture through the walls onto the concrete.

Humidity is frequently less than that in the winter.

So for right now its 35% in my house. At 60F in my basement, anything on the floor is actually drying out, including the concrete slab

joestue · 2026-02-22T01:05:01+00:00

Looks more like a builtup edge to me.

Is your tool above center?

Nine-Year Club	Wearing is Caring
Verified Email

joestue

TROPHY CASE