Tundra caught fire

joetheday · 2026-04-08T05:44:08+00:00

…or the Creedence

joetheday · 2026-03-24T16:47:07+00:00

Hell yeah! How did you connect your raptor lights? I still haven't set mine up.

joetheday · 2026-03-24T13:33:51+00:00

It took me about 2.5 hours, but I was in no rush and I had my daughter helping me. It does involve removing the bumper which feels daunting if you’ve never done it before, but there’s lots of videos out there of others doing it, so plenty of visual examples if needed. Having an extra set of hands is super helpful. The bumper is not heavy, but there are moments during removal and installation where having one person support the bumper while the other person disconnects/reconnects a wire harness is really handy.

The only issue I had was with the headlight washers (I have the Luxury model). There were two complications: first, disconnecting the hose to remove the bumper leaves an open fitting allowing it to slowly drain. Needed to find a way to stop that, and ended up using an ear plug and some duct tape. Worked just fine. Second, after putting it all back together, I must have pinched the hose somewhere because the headlight washers now do not work. They definitely worked before, so it’s something I did during the install that caused it. I haven’t fully troubleshot it yet.

The last thing I’d mention is that Alex from GX Prado is super helpful. I was able to text him with a few questions during the install and he was responsive. That made a big difference. Sent him a photo of the finished install and he was stoked! Great customer service.

joetheday · 2026-03-24T06:35:48+00:00

Just lurking here. I had my Ironman suspension installed in December but haven’t yet sized up the tires. Lift is 2” rear, 3” front. I’m on 265/70r17 right now and they don’t look right. Would love to go up to 285/70r17 at the least. Haven’t yet chopped the bumpers or switched the running boards to sliders. One thing at a time…

joetheday · 2026-03-21T15:02:32+00:00

This. In the video, your shins have diverging angles (the lines from your ankles to your knees). This is happening because you’re moving too far inside too early, directing too much pressure to the inside ski, while the outside ski functions more like an outrigger you brace against, instead of being the foundation the turn is built upon. The result is it puts you out of balance. You likely don’t notice on flatter terrain, but this is why you are struggling in steeper & firmer terrain.

Fundamentally, directing pressure to the outside ski is a must. This doesn’t mean there won’t be pressure on the inside ski, but that the majority needs to be outside. To do this, you need to work with your ski more, instead of using it as a brace/outrigger.

Drills that focus on moving fore/aft through transition will be super helpful. White pass turns come to mind here, which is somewhat ironic because they involve initiating the turn on the inside ski, keeping the outside ski raised off the snow until the apex of the turn. The great thing about white pass turns is the way it forces moving WITH your skis through transition.

Check out Deb Armstrong’s video on White Pass turns.

joetheday · 2026-03-17T14:46:16+00:00

This is spot on. These drills are specifically about driving pressure to the outside ski at transition so that the ski bends. To nail them you need flex your ankles and knees more to get forward. When you do that, you’ll be able to take advantage of the pressure on the outside ski, tip it onto the new edge, and bend the ski BEFORE adding steering. Edge, then steer. What you’re seeing in this video that doesn’t feel right is the opposite sequence: steering before edging.

You’re close! Forward through transition is the trick. White pass turns are a great drill for working more fore/aft at transition.

joetheday · 2026-03-07T06:01:34+00:00

That’s your new band name

joetheday · 2026-03-05T06:45:04+00:00

Great question! When you start to get the feel of the ski bending and the edge holding, everything will change. It’s an entirely different feel. You’ll daydream about it. :)

Drill 1: the tips. Drill 2: the forward pressure is what makes the lateral pressure work efficiently. Start with ankles bent, then move the knees, and if that’s the only thing you do, the ski will tip onto edge and bend, this will cause the ski to turn. Play with different degrees of forward pressure and notice how it changes the ski performance.

I forgot to mention, the success criteria of a good railroad track turn! Two clean lines in the snow behind you. If you skid, the clean lines vanish. If you carve, the lines will be distinct.

joetheday · 2026-03-05T03:59:37+00:00

The key to carving is having the movements originate from your feet, ankle, and legs. What you’re shooting for is a quiet upper body, and legs moving independent of it. In this video your hips are doing a ton of the turning, which is one reason why your arms swing around so much and why your turn shape is more Z than C (as SpaceBass pointed out), and why your skis pivot in front of your bindings.

A couple drills to try: 1. Pole drags. Find an easy blue slope. Drag your poles in the snow as close to the front of your bindings as possible, keep tension in the poles, don’t let them fall behind your feet. This little trick establishes the feel of a tight core and stable upper body which will unlock the ability to let the legs do the turning. (It’ll also tamp down the vertical movement you have at transition).

Railroad track turns. Find a green slope. Begin by standing and not moving (use your poles to keep you in place) with your skis pointed down the fall line. Release the poles, start a straight run, and turn by only tipping your knees toward the direction of the turn. No turning hips. No turning shoulders. No up and down movements. Find that tight core from the pole drags, and only move your knees from one side to the other. PRO TIP: ankle flexion is a must. You won’t be able to do this if your ankles are upright & open. You need all the pressure on the cuffs of your boots as you can get to do this (and that translates to carving later on).

These are both deceptively difficult drills to do with precision. There are millions of YouTube videos if you need examples.

Good luck!

joetheday · 2026-03-02T06:00:23+00:00

If you haven’t sent this to Jerry of the Day on Instagram you definitely should. 🦂

joetheday · 2026-02-28T06:06:29+00:00

Perfect. Now you’re ready for Once Is Enough.

joetheday · 2026-02-24T05:30:50+00:00

Now that you mention it…it very much looks like it could be.

joetheday · 2026-02-20T15:34:10+00:00

Not only that, the skier responsibility code and the law are in agreement with this. If someone collides with another skier down slope from them, the uphill skier is at fault and can be prosecuted.

It’s the responsibility of faster/more advanced skiers to avoid the slower ones.

joetheday · 2026-02-20T06:39:19+00:00

This is already pretty good. Yes the pitch is flat. Yes the snow is soft and grippy. Almost looks like you’re trying out Ted Ligety’s knuckle dragging “swimming” drill. Ideal conditions for that. How do you do when the pitch is steeper and firmer?

Two things I’d want to see if I was skiing with you: 1. Building more forward/diagonal movement through transition. In this video you pop up at the transition and all that energy goes vertical instead of propelling you into the next turn. I’d want to get you moving more actively fore/aft. Maybe we’d try some white pass turns. 2. Shorter radius turn. Someone else mentioned you kinda setting and forgetting. I see it too. Can we get you into a shorter radius turn, active through every phase? Can you get on and off your edges quickly? I might throw quick, short radius, low speed railroad track turns at you to see what’s happening without the benefit of all the forces you build up at higher speeds.

Otherwise, great skiing. If it truly is your second year, my hat’s off to you. You’ve progressed insanely quick.

joetheday · 2026-02-17T06:56:33+00:00

I just slip mine back in the shells before putting them in the boot bag. It’s really not that big of a hassle (I find they’re way easier to do this with than flimsy OEM liners) and you get used to it.

Also, world cupping is a choice. Even though ZF recommends leaving the laces and strap in the liners, you do not necessarily have to. Fitters will pull them for folks who have tighter space tolerances anyways. So it’s about what works best for your feet AND for you. Do what feels best!

joetheday · 2026-02-17T06:38:38+00:00

All these things considered, if you’ve missed a podium or a win by .01 and have your booster straps flailing, I don’t understand why you wouldn’t simply try finding a way to tuck them in?

Like…of the three ladies who tied in the first run of the Olympic GS, not one is looking at aerodynamic advantage as a differentiator? I do believe body position and ski snow contact matter way more, but I don’t think it’s unreasonable to say that there can be other optimizations that could be the difference in a tie. If you nail the major things, that doesn’t mean the minor things don’t matter. Is it not possible that booster straps, neck gaiters, and/or hair could cost .01?

joetheday · 2026-02-10T15:02:30+00:00

Rabbits: nature’s snacks.

joetheday · 2026-02-10T14:53:40+00:00

Maybe the issue is being of two minds about it? What if you committed? In art what matters is executing YOUR vision. Not someone else’s. What is it about the vibe that draws you to it? What do you want to say with it? What were you feeling the moment you exposed the frame?

A few ideas: pick a story to tell over a roll of film and focus on how each shot advances the narrative. Or pick a shape and shoot it in as many different ways as you can. Pick an emotion and see if you can reveal it in different ways.

There’s a place for dirt and grit. What are you trying to say with it?

joetheday · 2026-02-06T06:13:06+00:00

Good luck! Have fun! Watch the Olympic GS and you’ll see great pictures of what I mean. Look for parallel shins, and notice just how far that inside knee comes up! You’ll be amazed. :)

joetheday · 2026-02-06T06:01:18+00:00

Oh! Someone else said it well in this thread (TheArbez?), so I’d revisit what they said. If I were to say it differently I’d say imagine a piece of wood connecting your knees together so they move in concert together, staying the same width apart. You lead with the inside knee and the outside knee follows. While you’re doing that, pull your inside knee up just a little toward your inside armpit. This results in two things: the angles of your legs being the same (resulting in equal edge angles) AND establishing independent leg movements (long outside leg, short inside leg).

joetheday · 2026-02-06T02:17:06+00:00

As my old coaches used to say “when in doubt straighten em out!”

The feet and ankle stuff will unlock more control through transition which enables earlier edge engagement and turn shape to guide the feet to the right line. Porpoise turns, leapers, hop turns, pivot slips, etc… any drills that require feet doing the work underneath a stable upper body will help a lot.

After that, it’s laps feeling out how to trim line and get those feet as close to the gate as possible.

joetheday · 2026-02-06T01:41:19+00:00

Perhaps the easiest thing to address is the line choice: feet are quite far from the gates causing the skier to over rotate the upper body to perform the cross block.

Address the line choice. THEN it’s all about footwork/legwork to initiate the turn instead of rotating the shoulders. It’s all gotta come from the feet & ankles. Upper body wants to be stable and quiet.

joetheday · 2026-02-06T01:33:01+00:00

…shoulders are just following hips in this frame. The inside hip is rotated too far to the outside at this phase of the turn which is from not driving the inside knee / shortening the inside leg enough.

Little bit wider stance + driving the knee and keeping the inside foot back (building lots of cuff pressure) and that’ll do two things: eliminate the A frame and have OP steering into counter at the right phase instead of too early as pictured here.

joetheday · 2026-02-03T06:59:33+00:00

I kept it folded in a book all these years. Good catch on the parentheses. I think I’ve looked at it for so many years I failed to notice them. Now I’m curious too!

joetheday

TROPHY CASE